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foz75

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Everything posted by foz75

  1. Quick update.... Cleaned the areas that weren't taking paint well with neat washing up liquid on a cotton bud, then damp cloth to rinse several times. Sprayed again,and pretty much the se as before So I tried spreading the paint a little with a cotton bud, and it seems to be covering those areas now Tomorrow I'll spray a little paint out and try painting these areas with a brush, if that doesn't work then I'll just cover with decals and hope they don't show...
  2. Ok, thanks all! Will report back in a couple of days when I've had chance to try it!
  3. I was thinking polycarbonate cleaner applied carefully with a cotton bud... Don't fancy washing again, as that might affect the masking? Can always try brush painting, but I already tried a good spray that initially covered these spots, buy appears to have just run away as it dried and left them with very little paint. Will washing affect the masking? I can redo all except the window masks, and don't fancy having to redo them with tape!
  4. Ok. I guess Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner is the best option?
  5. I masked off everything except the roof and roll cage of my novafox, and have sprayed black. But there are a few small areas where paint just will not cover. I did wash thoroughly with soap and warm water first. What's the best way to fix these spots? Would like to get them sorted before I spray the main part blue, so that no blue shows through. I'm not too worried because the decals will cover most of not all of these spots, but the whole point of me painting the roll cage was to avoid using the decals for it... And I'd like to know for future projects!
  6. Ok,I know as short as possible is best, I guess a few days is fine? More worried about possible bleeding under the tape from lifting than glue residue
  7. Just wondering, once window masks and Tamiya tape are applied to the inside of a clear shell, do they stay stuck for quite a while (a few days)? Or worded another way, how long can I wait between applying masks and painting? And what about removing them? How long should I wait, and how long might be too long? I need to mask and then paint 2 colours, but I can't seem to find enough free time in the same day to get it all done, so need to spread it out over a few days or maybe a week
  8. I have read that the swaybar isn't the best. But I didn't realise the shock instructions were different to accommodate it. Will run as stock first, since it's already built that way, and see how it drives. Then will start experimenting... I might also change the shocks for some clack ones, that will better fit some of the ideas I have for a second body shell
  9. So I have the chassis done, just woriking on the shell. Shocks are all built as per the manual. I've noticed that on a simple "drop test", the rear suspension works great, damping is good, no bounciness or rebound. But the front is very bouncy, and doesn't appear to damp very much at all. I know the limitations of the front monoshock and don't pretend that it will ever have brilliant front suspension, but it must be possible to get the damping to work somewhere near decent! can anyone help with the best settings to use? 3 hole piston? different oil? thanks!
  10. quick update... after ordering a new F parts tree along with a few other bits to make the shipping worthwhile, this afternoon I decided to have a go at sorting the hole. I took everything apart as I didn't want to risk gettin gglue on anything other than where I wanted it. I had a good look at both the holes in F2, and both the 8mm ball connectors. The holes do appear to be slightly different sizes (I haven't measured), and the ball connectors appear to be exactly the same (again, I haven't measured). I figured I might as well try the ball connectors in the opposite holes, and what do you know, the ball connector that had screwed in fine as it was supposed to, did the same in the hole that is "too large". And is tight, all OK. the ball connector that wouldn't screw in, as threaded in to the other side, in the threads already tapped by the first ball connector, and while it isn't as tight as I'd like it, it is in and I think it will be OK. I don't want to risk tightening any more in case I strip the threads. So the problem seems to be double - a slightly (but not too much) oversized hole, and a slightly (but not too much) undersized ball connector thread. Either one on it's own would be OK, both together just don't work! I have a new parts tree and more ball connectors on their way anyway (will be useful for spares), but it makes me wonder about the tolerances in Tamiya parts!
  11. Yep, definitely the right part. I bought the kit nearly two years ago and have had it waiting until then, so don't think the shop or Tamiya will be too interested. Might try anyway
  12. Thanks for all the help! Being polycarbonate, is epoxy still the best glue to use? I will order a new parts tree anyway, but I do wonder how my F2 part has been made with one of the holes too large? There must be more out there from the same mold which I imagine have the same dimensions...
  13. I'm not sure on the type of plastic. The marking on the tree is >PC< which I think is the type of material? I don't have access to a drill press, would have to use a vice and hand drill so can't guarantee the results... Which makes me prefer the "glue and screw" method.
  14. The epoxy method sounds easier... Can the ball stud be removed later on of needed? A new parts tree is 10 euros at tamico, postage is 13 euros... Are the any other compatible options? Will try the fix, but just in case...
  15. So I've been building my novafox slowly over the last couple of weeks. Today I'm assembling the front steering knuckles, and on one of the F1 arms, one of the holes for the 8mm ball stud is too large. The threaded part of the stud just pushes right in, no threading required. So I guess I need a new F parts tree, but what can I use to fill the hole, or at least reduce it in size?
  16. That looks amazing, great job! I need to learn more about weathering techniques!
  17. lots of votes for the XV-01 then, which is what I suspected. Price is quite high though, I've been looking at TT02 and even TT01E kits, which leave lots of room for tinkering. Brilliant out of the box is great, but I won't be racing so absolute performance isn't really a consideration, opportunities for experimenting, upgrading, changing stuff and just general having fun are probably better with the TT kits ? Silly question coming, but is it possible to put a rally / touring shell on a TT-02B chassis? Will depend on the space in the shell I guess, maybe some modding required, etc, but in theory is it possible? or is there some reason other than higher rear shock tower why it just can't be done? Am thinking that might give better off road performance and readiness than a standard TT02 chassis
  18. While I'm still tinkering with one car and have just started a new kit build, when not concentrating on those my mind starts to wonder... I feeling the urge for a rally /touring type chassis and car. Must be capable of dirt, so not a surfaced track / indoor type. I quite like some of the M size bodies, but think a "standard" size (257 WB) would probably be more versatile. What differences are there in driving, extras, building fun, options, flexibility, etc. between say the M05ra / MF01X and the TT02 / XV-01? Any other alternatives? Is it just a case of pick a shell and then a chassis to suit?
  19. Always? This is only the third time I've done it I just followed the instructions, they didn't say it was an optional step. Only reason I have reprogrammed is because I took the tble from my novafox kit to put in a CC 02 as I didn't have another one. Then bought a 1060 for the fox, but the switch wires are very short on that one, so swapping them... If it's not necessary them I just learned my thing for today. Am using NiMH and the stock silver can.
  20. Ok, sorted.... Turns out the sticker over the led and button wasn't letting me press the button fully. Peeled it off and all sorted. Makes me wonder how I programmed it the first time, maybe the button has been pressed into the ESC a little. Anyhow, all working!
  21. I'm puzzled, the instructions don't explain, and I hope someone here can help! I have a TBLE-02S that was working fine in a car. I want to move it to a different car with different TX and RX. It still appears to be working fine, just requires motor high point setup. I am following the instructions exactly, but pressing the set button, the led does not cycle through the colours. I have tried all combinations of turning on/off while holding or not the button, etc, but nothing. Just a solid green light. The instructions say simply "while holding down the button check that the led cycles through red-green-orange" but not what to do if it doesn't! It also says that setup will need to be done again if changing TX, so this must be possible! Any clues?
  22. Very nice! Quick slightly off-topic question, but are the silver stripes between blue/red/black painted, or decals?
  23. Interested to see how this turns out, looking for alternative ideas for my blitzer beetle. Hadn't thought about the Blackfoot shell...
  24. I've been working in the UK for the last couple of years but am leaving soon and can't take everything with me, so I have a few things to move on. Nothing amazing but might be of use to someone! Will add more bits if and when I find them. Hopefully prices are reasonable - all include tracked postage within the UK. 1. Wheels and tyres - bought for my Hotshot but then I went with the Egress wheels. These are still in the packets, unopened 53880 Tamiya Off-Road 4WD Large Front Wheel x2 53881 Tamiya Off-Road 4WD Large Rear Wheel x2 54185 Tamiya Dual Block Tyres K - Front 62/25 x2 54186 Tamiya Dual Block Tyres K - Rear 62/35 x2 45 GBP posted for the full set 2. 2600mAh Nimh battery and slow charger. Battery is about a year old, only used for testing cars indoors so little use. 22.50 GBP posted 3. Various paints: PS-1 white (unopened) PS-2 red (used for one shell, aprox 1/4 can left) PS-41 bright silver (used for one shell, aprox 1/4 can left) TS-40 metallic black (used for one set of wheels, aprox 1/2 can left) X-2 white X-7 red XF-1 flat black XF-15 flat flesh (the only thing I've painted with the X/XF paints is one driver figure, so they're opened but pretty much full) Carson Paint Killer (bottle, not spray - I used a few drops only, so also pretty much a full bottle) No pic of the paints but I can get one if really needed 25 GBP posted for all the paints together
  25. I can't get past seeing 4 different shades of yellow between body, chassis, wheels and shocks....
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