wrightwinger
-
Posts
14 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by wrightwinger
-
-
Matthias, I noticed you didn't use the gumballs I sent you.
Goodnews! I ordered a rallybeetle (I simply cannot get beetle bodies here in the US). The rally beetle kit isn't that much more than what just a lexan shell would cost me.
Badnews, because I live in winter land, I will not be able to paint it till mid May.
Goodnews, and I hope this isn't against the rules. But I have created a decal set on self adhesive vinyl to sell on ebay.
I don't mean to throw shade, but the others are terrible. Wrong font, wrong sizes, but at least the colors are right. I am new to decal printing, so although my design is better, my quality will be worse. I am working to improve that, and will be adding waterslide decals as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264941609721
now I used white glue to smoothly glue my decals on the inside of my body and that worked well. I have no idea how to make decals that way. But these are self adhesive to be placed outside.
The krylon paint is still holding too,, but the acetone I used really did a number on the body:(
-
1
-
-
I'm finally back!
My car body got totally fubar after the first bad paint job, and the paint remover. the body is cracking apart, the windows are messed up. I ruined the wheels trying to make them look more like herbie wheels (disaster). and the trim decals are not applied (saving them incase i can ever come across an affordable body). I printed more numbers, so I'll eventually try again on the frunk. with the body literally cracking apart, the sunroof has been forgoed for now.
But this was my first body job ever!
I filled the front blinkers with white glue, as i wanted them to be clear. and that worked wonderfully to allow me to paint the inside.. i taped them up when i paited the outside.
yes after my first horrible paint job, i painted the outside.
i have krylon over ps paint. we'll see if/how that holds up.
-
1
-
-
that silver looks fantastic! congrats on the new baby!
the stripes are good width that i have,,, and that is all. I'm not sure if my friend just printed whole sheets of vinyl, or if they come colored in her line of work. but they were the one part that went well.
4mm, 4mm, and 8mm stripes.
3 different gumballs here.
-
1
-
-
Hey Guys. Matthias that looks like a great start!
Me, well my project did not go well, I did a few things right, and a few things wrong.
What went right;
the number gumbals I printed up from photoshop. on a real car, they should all be the same size, but the front one should be cut, or oblonged a little wide to make way for the frunk chrome. So I modified one gumball, and placed the numbers further apart. because this is a 68 beetle, and the license plate light will goof up the rear gumball, I made that one a little bit smaller to fit. I then printed these out on a simple bw printer, and hand darkened them with a sharpie. you must use packaging tape to seal the backside, or the ink will bleed! apply white glue to the numbers in a way so it fully covers it when you place it inside the lexan.
The stripes are vinyl. I got scraps from a friend, and this allowed me to cut them to be the right width (4mm/4mm/8mm). shame I had already bought ps paint when I got the scraps. I did have 2 little spots of overspray caused my own laziness.
Decal sets online are all wrong in sizing, and often font as well.
what went ok.
Krylon paint over clear coat (though time will tell). the actual L87 paint that I could custom order for old beetles, I figured might not stick well. the next best color I could not get. this is what I thought was my 3rd best option from a spray can.
clearly the color is too light.
what went TERRIBLE
,...... well the paint, satin ivory, is too light. I had 3 coats down. so i shot the inside with black.... the coats were not even and this made it look bad. i tried to sand the paint off, and this made it worse.
i then used acetone to get the paint off which mostly worked... but then my body began cracking! so i only removed the spots that were bad and redid the gumballs. now the body is cloudy. their are a few REALLY BAD SPOTS like on the hood. the rest i could dress up to look distressed/beat up.
i would start over but bodies are so expensive!
i have not tackeled to the sunroof yet. i have some nice scrap grey leather around the house, but dont want to use it on something so disappointing.
-
1
-
-
Ok this is crazy, but I cannot find the T rating for the 540 model that comes with this M06 kit. I simply cannot find it anywhere. Been looking a week now! I want to know this before buying an esc. i can't even find anything on here.
Since I have a trx-4, I was thinking of using the same esc, a traxxas xl5hv.... but I can only find its rated for 21t with a 550 motor. the cheaper xlv from the slash has a lower T rather (12) for 550, and is rated for 15t at 540.
I know I can save money doing a hobeywing or something like that, but since I'm new, this would make less headaches, and less adapters needed.
That's interesting about the reverse stickers. But since the 53 gumball is so simple, simple black and white will do. I just need to learn what to print it onto. If it needs to be reversed, just a simple trick in photoshop.
-
On 5/20/2020 at 7:59 AM, ruebiracer said:
Very creative thought,
from my experience it is very hard to spray consistent thin layers with Tamiya rattle cans. You would not get a consistent mix color, and always have darker or different color shine areas! From your L87 example. it´s close to Tamiyas limited coloer Pastel gray, when I look on my rattle can left here. Unfortunately the color seems to be not available anymore.
https://www.the-border.com/Tamiya-PS-Pastel-Gray-100ml-Spray-Can-89920.html
The 89 no. indicates a limited edition run in Tamiya code language.
As you asked on my Herbie regarding the stripes: I put a wide masking tape stripe first, painting all other colors. Then remove it, glue a small stripe in the middle for the white with a 2mm masking stripe. Cover the blue or red side and begin spraying the other. Then again the left outer side stripe. In the end remove the thin stripe and cover everything with bright white. Actually it is the easiest job of the Herbie theme in the end. Of course, I speak here now about doing it with the airbrush...
I just re read this as I'm looking for masking tape.
according to my math herbies stripes would be 5 1/2" to 6". I like 6", its a nice even measurement of half blue, 1/4 red 1/4 white, so I'm trying to do a 1/10th version of that.
now If I do 4mm tape that is too big, 3mm too small. I'm surprised how good your striping looks if its only 2mm! I was thinking of doing 4 or 5mm, but now I might just do 3mm.
-
16 hours ago, SupraChrgd82 said:
Lexan does require specific paint or it will flake off.
There are several water-based Lexan paints or solvent-based paints available to airbrush other than Tamiya. You can mix to achieve your desired color. Note that the water-based paints require a light scuffing of the body and take a good month to fully cure and bond to the Lexan.
https://www.prolineracing.com/paint/
http://www.parmapse.com/fas1.html
https://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html
https://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/collections/airbrush-paint
I've seen it posted a couple times that acrylic paints don't age well. I think rubiracer said his herbie was having a few issues with it (I read so much I get confused who/where it was said).
I don't know why but I missed prolines selection. Everything else I've seen and gone over. Proline looks like they'd have a better color selection to start with to mix and make my own. I know this should not matter with paint, but I'm kinda *******ed at proline for how GAWD AWFUL their Jeep Gladiator body. I absolutely love the gladiator, and this would be the only way I could afford it.... except they made a total mockery of it. Unfortunately just before seeing your post I've made my purchases to attempt Ps-55 clear coat, and then enamel, then more ps-55.
22 hours ago, Busdriver said:All in all everything above is right. As you say you are starting with the wrong era car, it’s made of Lexsan it is a) very hard to re model and b) has painting issues. In answer to your question I backed the white with grey but I’d already put too much white on so did not have the desired effect. I gave up trying to get it right and just have fun with it. Most people who see it have no idea how inaccurate it really is. I have a number plate on the front(which should be the rear one) but Herbie does not! I did remember to leave off the VW sign though. If you ever get it sorted I’d love to see it.
I'll post for sure busdriver once I have something to show, good bad or ugly.
Herbie should have a number plate both front and back. The VW logos were left out of the first movie (the love bug) for reasons, but then VW asked Disney to put them back! So Herbie Rides Again, Monte Carlo, and Bananas all have VW logos. But from your herbie post you were going for the Love Bug look anyways.
On 5/22/2020 at 4:16 AM, ruebiracer said:Don´t bother, I can fully understand you!
Besides my racing Herbie Shells, I always want to build a Sunday runner / shelfer, which should look the part with more and more details. I also like the Monte Carlo extras, the fuel filler cap would be a nice detail, as well as the Carello fog light. Also working lights are a must for me, as my first Herbie shell had it already. I used Sand Scorcher front lights cut to fit, and in the rear I made some reflectors and painted translucent red for the lens. Just Looks so cool driving in the evening. Herbies wheels look like Porsche ones, I only know of 3 d printed ones on shapeways, that could be made to look the part. Unfortunately it´s not so cheap, and it´s a lot of paint work to get them shiny.
For the sunroof I found this week a Video of 2 guys doing 2 Tamiya beetles, one Herbie. I found the sunroof the best I´ve seen yet, done by "painting canvas" and toothpicks and water color. (Hope I understood it correctly):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9XuvNQMKts&t=303s
Could be interesting for you, too!
I´m really motivated to do my next shell, but lack my airbrush equipment at the moment, so will take some time until I get to do the next "mixing" Experiments with Proline colors this time.
Kind regards,
Matthias
P.S. You are Right, only one guy has the Herbie "53" almost accurate replicated. On the front Hood I think in the Movies they glued the Start numbers above the trimline, so I never cut it in 2 pieces yet. But it´s been a Long time, since I last saw one of the movies…
That shapeways find isn't right either. I did find this a while back https://www.shapeways.com/product/T6B342MWP/srb-vw-style-wheels-1-5?optionId=57426349&li=marketplace but I'm not sure what kind of wheels it would fit over, plus you get 2 different sizes in the set due to the 2 different sized wheels of the scorcher. I know i mentioned width, but look is more of a factor.
I'd love to do lighting, but I haven't figure out how. I was playing with the idea of leaving all the light areas taped off, and just figuring that out later.
I also got a trx4 and all the light kits (of any worth) are cold... can't have cold colored white lights on a classic bronco!
I'm new to RC, so i'm really not sure what I'm doing at all... I just know where i want to end up. horn would be fun, but a 3ch vs 2ch jumps A LOT in price for my transmitter.
I ordered decals from the guy with the right font. I asked if he could give me 4 the same size instead of 2/2. Great guy said it was no problem.... But I'll probably just make my own and apply them on the inside (gotta learn how to do that next).
but if you go here; https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/lovebugfans/herbie-decals-t10805-s10.html you'll get a nice graphic you can use, and measurements. 1:1 is 16" so just take that image into photoshop, rescale to 1.6", and print 3. the hood one will have to be played with. I will either cut a gumball in half..... and i've also skewed one to be wider, and then moved the numbers further apart. but yeah, need to learn what to print on, and how to apply it. Heck we could take these rescaled decals, print on sticker paper, and start a webstore (but that sounds like effort)..
I actually have some leather fabric that is the perfect color the roof (in my mind it's right, i haven't dug it out). I might end up using it.
-
1
-
-
On 5/21/2020 at 3:25 AM, Busdriver said:
My Herbie used stripes from a sticker set. I also added a sunroof using sticking plaster material (Elastoplast) as for the paint I took the easy route and used white. Trying to do layers in the right balance with rattle can would be a lottery. The only other possibility is if you first spray the inside of the shell with clear ps then the right colour followed by another coat of ps clear that may incapsulate the paint and stop it flaking. This is an untested theory, by me anyway. As an aside I have a download of scale number plates if you are interested. I printed them on to computer labels, then lacquered them once they were on. Also the pearl in pearl Weiss does not refer to pearlescent but to the colour of a pearl!!!
PS Bus Driver, I was just looking at your Herbie again. I am surprised at how dissimilar the white of your paint, and the white of the gumballs are. Did you do something to make the gumballs extra white, or darken the paint a bit?
If you notice the Love Bug picture you posted, Herbs got the one round mirror on the Left side. In all 4 of the original movies He's got one mirror. 2 of them are round like on the kits left side, and 2 of them are (that other shape) as on the kits right side.
Have you considered adding tape on the headlights like they did on the love bug?
I'd love to get proper wheels. Especially if they could be extra wide Like Monte Carlo Herbie. I'm hoping to make some trans france race stickers, and that racing gas cap (from wood) to complete it. I've seen some "hella" 1/10 scale RC lights sold for crawlers. I might get one of those, paint the cover black, and then make a decal using this for the cover. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/lovebugfans/herbie-s-fog-light-info-needed-t10820.html
Of course the Taimya 1/10 Beetle being the wrong year with different lights is eating at me too. I wish I could just relax about things,,,, or had the know how to make them right.
-
1
-
-
On 5/20/2020 at 7:59 AM, ruebiracer said:
Very creative thought,
from my experience it is very hard to spray consistent thin layers with Tamiya rattle cans. You would not get a consistent mix color, and always have darker or different color shine areas! From your L87 example. it´s close to Tamiyas limited coloer Pastel gray, when I look on my rattle can left here. Unfortunately the color seems to be not available anymore.
https://www.the-border.com/Tamiya-PS-Pastel-Gray-100ml-Spray-Can-89920.html
The 89 no. indicates a limited edition run in Tamiya code language.
As you asked on my Herbie regarding the stripes: I put a wide masking tape stripe first, painting all other colors. Then remove it, glue a small stripe in the middle for the white with a 2mm masking stripe. Cover the blue or red side and begin spraying the other. Then again the left outer side stripe. In the end remove the thin stripe and cover everything with bright white. Actually it is the easiest job of the Herbie theme in the end. Of course, I speak here now about doing it with the airbrush...
That pastel Gray would be a great find, and I will search for it. Herbie's color is right between light beige and light gray. But at least that color by itself would get me half the way there! I'm going to scour for it.
On 5/20/2020 at 8:36 AM, howaboutme said:I hate to complicate things but just be careful when viewing colors on your computer monitor. Unless your monitor is externally calibrated then you are likely not seeing the true color. Sometimes can be close but not exact. Also, what you see in your monitor (even if calibrated) will likely not be what the printer will print out unless you have the printer calibrated to your monitor or you have the printer profiles that you can then set in Photoshop. Just a public service announcement. If you're not too picky, no worries.
I am 110% fully aware monitors are not color accurate. My photoshop relies upon tamiya's paint samples, and vw paint samples being accurate to each other. Because if that plan 'could' work, the color would be accurate.
23 hours ago, Busdriver said:My Herbie used stripes from a sticker set. I also added a sunroof using sticking plaster material (Elastoplast) as for the paint I took the easy route and used white. Trying to do layers in the right balance with rattle can would be a lottery. The only other possibility is if you first spray the inside of the shell with clear ps then the right colour followed by another coat of ps clear that may incapsulate the paint and stop it flaking. This is an untested theory, by me anyway. As an aside I have a download of scale number plates if you are interested. I printed them on to computer labels, then lacquered them once they were on. Also the pearl in pearl Weiss does not refer to pearlescent but to the colour of a pearl!!!
I'm sorry but I absolutely LOATHE white Herbies. I see them all the time on full sized white cars. even classic beetles. It always seemed lazy, half-assed, and inaccurate.
At least now I understand why the RC builders do it.
Its absolutely crazy that nobody makes a paint in tan, grey, sand, boulder, off-white type of color that will mix to a lexan body.
I'm getting confused as I read post and post after post. But I think I saw someone say they would use PS clear coat, then other paint, then PS clear coat again.
they'd test it on a piece of lexan, bend it, and it would look good!
but X amount of time later, or after a crash, it began to spiderweb all over.
That method would be good if I were building a shelf queen. maybe it'll be a shelf queen. But I'd like to run it without too much fear. (just need to find metal accurate bumpers, replacement plastic bumpers, or some temp driving bumper).
I have sticker stripes, but I would prefer it to look better than that. I'm considering doing the 53 gumball on the inside too, as I've never seen one of the stickers handle the center hood right... I was originally thinking of cutting the gumball in two.
Most of the sticker packs really irritate me because the 53 font is wrong. Only one guy on ebay sells them with something close to the correct font.
I think I'm becoming autistic as I get older, and maybe its my crushed dreams getting into graphic design (or the fact that all my dreams have been crushed), but details like this really bother me.
I'd like to at least get something right in my life, and if I can't even build a Herbie right,,, have I done anything right??
-
2
-
-
I'm sorry to hear about the paint flaking on your herbie shell.
I was playing in photoshop, and came up with something, and ya'll can tell me how impractical or stupid it is.
Problem 1. is I'm relying upon companies website color samples.
2. I'm relying upon my spray paint layer skills. I honestly have no idea how thick a layer is. is it possible to have 50% opaque layers?
BUT in photoshop a base of white, then 70-80% opaque Champaing Gold, Then 50% opaque semi gloss silver, comes pretty darn close.
So I'd paint silver, gold, white..... or maybe i'd alternate silver/gold then white?
L87 paint sample on the left.
gold and silver sound metallic, and I'd need a way to counter that..
-
On 11/17/2018 at 6:07 PM, 87lc2 said:
I love Tamiya PS paints as much as anyone and use them often, but also have used Rustoleum rattle cans for years with great results. I typically use either the 2X line or metallics line and have never had any peeling or cracking and I use my vehicles hard on the trails, etc. I always do a test spot first on a spare piece of the body I've trimmed off just to be sure. I'll usually bend it back and forth and try to scratch the paint off, have never had it happen yet.
The trick to painting lexan successfully is more in the prep than the paint you use. Of course there are some really cheap rattle can paints that will flake right off, but if you do a test panel first and prep properly you'll be fine. I always trim the body and mark the body posts first. Then I scuff the entire inside of the body with 0000 steel wool to give the paint a surface to bite into (don't scuff the windows of course). Then I thoroughly wash the body in warm water using a degreasing soap (dish soap works well). I then apply any masking and wipe the inside of the body with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Once that is dry I begin spraying in light coats until I get full coverage. Once done I always back with a satin black so everything is a nice uniform color.
Give it a try for your next body, I promise with proper prep you'll be happy. Much less cost that Tamiya PS and you get a lot more paint in the can. The smell i also not as bad. Good luck.
Just to clarify, You will do Rustoleum straight onto the clean and prepped surface? no clear coat layers before or after? and this seems to hold up well.
-
FasPearl is a pearl. I know VW calls L87 pearlwhite, but it is definitely not a pearl color. On their website I can find references to white, but it absolutely amazes me that I cannot find white nor black.
I was an art major, but I've only mixed up oils for canvas'es and house paints. Never mixed a pearl and am not sure what to expect. Plus those oils I'd mix for just that one time use. Not several coats over days.
I'll check out the harborfreight tip.
I haven't been able to find info about Tamiya airbrush paints on lexan. I "assume" it's a no-go, but I haven't read anything from anyone with experience anywhere.
Thanks for the feedback on the clearcoat of PS, plus other paint. I've read a couple people post that as a working option... but never in a forum when someone was attempting to do something nice. It seems like a mixed results kind of solution.
Titanium silver by name sounds like an awful match, all I was going by is the color sample on the tamiya site, was very close to the color sample on the site for getting old VW paint. Rustolium and testors makes closer colors (according to the sample on the site).
If that is Titanium Silver on that Honda,,, that would definitely be a horrible paint choice for Herbie. At least you saved me from one mistake.
Life would be easy if I could just use automotive paint. Once I get the color solved, striping is going to be a bigger challenge.
-
I have never worked with a Lexan body before.
The color I want is not available in any lexan approved paint.
I want to do a Herbie, and I loathe the inaccuracy of white herbies (it bothers me more than it should).
L87 is VW's color code. I can get that paint exactly. https://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_paint/Volkswagen/1966-Volkswagen-All-Other-Models-Pearl-White-L87.html
Tamiya's color swatch online looks very similar. https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ts-plastics/ts-88-titanium-silver/100ml-spray-can/ but I don't trust Tamiya's sample image as none of them show metallic, mica, pearl, or anything like that.
Testors light aircraft grey looks close online L87, as does rust-oleum's touch'n'tone's almond.
One guy on here has a herbie (who needs to teach me how to do his stripes), mixed spray-able acrylics.
my problem with the lexan approved airbrush spray is; I don't have an airspray gun. Im unsure how to mix a paint and get several layers out of it (would you mix it in an empty body?).
but the worst part is paint like faskcolor on their website does not sell colors like white or black. I've searched and searched, and cannot find white or black. And I'm not sure how to get a light grey/tan mix of a color without anyway to make grey.
So what are my options? Can I do some clear coats of tamiya PS paint, and then do a non PS paint? what would I look for to make sure the solvents don't cause problems?
Can I do alternating layers of different PS paints and "hope" they look right when I'm done?
Can I use Tamiya airbrush paint, and brush it on.. It's water based, can I use water to thin the paint to remove brush strokes?
painting a non PS paint color,... how?
in Build Tips and Techniques
Posted
Mattias, I'm not sure what MCI is......