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About Manix92

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  1. Strictly speaking you should be adding shrinkage in the software when 3D printing to fit existing parts = just the same when you design injection mould tools. When I design a injection mould tool the first step is add shrinkage to parts so you actually machine bigger. Same goes when I have had 3D printed parts that needed a decent fit, shrinkage was added before we sent it to our printers. You would expect Shapeways to add shrinkage or ask if you want shrinkage adding but who knows, I have never used them.
  2. Well generally speaking when talking urethane you would think it's 2K with a iso hardener (though it could be a binder which is iso free but not as good). Lets assume it is 2K and they used a iso hardener. Basically it will be as durable as the paint on your car - scratch resistant, high uv resistance, petrol and thinners won't remove it. Pretty well as good as it gets. You can always try removing it with thinners to test it
  3. Still waiting for paint. Cancelled the last order and found some on ebay at a reasonable price. So that should be here in the next few days. Also while running it unpainted had some issues with overheating motor and probably the ESC. I will cover that in another post. Anyway with the aluminium arriving for the bumper skid plate I decided to get going on that. First off I cut out a template in card. Next up cutout the aluminium and formed the radius using some car bodywork tools I have. The radius is a pretty good match. With that it was time to drill the holes and clean it up. The inside was finished to 320 grit wet and dry while the visible outside was finished to 2000 grit. The plastic bumper it will be bonded to was done to 320 grit as well. With that it was now time to bond the aluminium to the plastic bumper. I used Super Steel 2k exopy resin as this is usually very good. White spirit was used to clean the edges as it squelched out. Two parts now bonded together. For full strength bond I would wait for 24 hours personally. Fitted to the car it looks really good, very happy with the result. Now the screw heads are sub-flush and won't get damaged. One final thought on the skid plate. These aluminium sheets on Ebay are a pretty low grade = soft. It will be interesting to see how durable it is. You could instead use stainless steel but the only downside then is it will be a little harder to form.
  4. If they are saying it's very durable and scratch resistant it maybe 2K clear coat. If it is 2K clear coat it won't go yellow will time as well.
  5. Have no idea why they used plastic. Stripped the first one in the kit with force of the spring. The second one in the kit I have been making sure I push a screwdriver against it when I screw the bolt in.
  6. OK I think I found it, is this the one you mean? https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/24592/ Looks like natural nylon with a steel nutsert so it's going to be better if it fits.
  7. I'm after replacing the plastic diff screw nut on the Zahhak with a steel or aluminium one Question is does just about any diff screw nut fit? The TRF-201 number for the parts(s) is 19804409 and is not the easiest item to get hold of. But would just about any Tamiya nut for diff joints fit?? For instance there seem to be loads of Tamiya 51341 for the TRF-416 about https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-51341-TRF416-Differential-Screw-Nut-TRF416WE-TRF416X-NIP/382003398211?epid=682832152&hash=item58f12d4643:g:uaEAAOSwXYtYyVVT would the nut from this fit or is there something even cheaper I could get?
  8. As this has turned into a ongoing pass time I have ordered a few more bits........... OK nothing serious but I like tinkering. So Firstly I have ordered Tamiya 53585 3mm shim set, been looking around the car and there are a few points that can be shimmed. Don't get me wrong the DN-01 is far better than the clearances you see on many Tamiya kits but there is always room for improvement Also some aluminium sheet, I am going to attempt bonding a 1mm thick aluminium skid plate to the front bumper.
  9. Thanks. There are two TRF-201's on ebay at the moment being sold by the same seller. One is a assembled kit and says it hasn't been run, though it looks like it has very minor scuffs on the front bumper? maybe it was tested? - near enough unused anyway even if it was tested. The other is NIB. I might get a TRF-201 at some point. It would be nice if they come back in the shops but not sure if that will happen.
  10. With the continuing saga of 'still no paint delivered' I decided to have a good blast in the garden regardless. I cut the lawn pretty short so there isn't much resistance. Happy with the Super Stock, don't know if I really would want much more speed TBH. Anyway had a delivery Saturday morning - the 54016 DB01 Assembly Universal Drive Shafts. Noted on the packet for use on DB01 chassis and TRF501X. Always a bit worrying when they don't mention your chassis = DN-01/TRF-201. Anyway if I remember correctly from what I could tell from part numbers these were used on the TRF-201 so lets see if they work. First up get the wheels and the old drive shafts off. Here is the package of goodies. Lets get them assembled. All went well, the instructions call for moly grease. I got one spare grub screw and you also get the a set of wheel lock pins which are exactly the same as the ones taken off. So those can go in the spares box. And the moment of truth - do they fit correctly? YES and seem fine at all suspension travel points. Wheels back on. Job done. So how do they feel? Very smooth compared with the stock items. Thumbs up for this hop-up.
  11. I don't have a Dremel anymore. Instead have a die grinder which is great for steel and makes a Dremel look like a toy but for plastic with out speed control it's going to melt it. Did you manage to buy 3 degree items 54242 & 54243 rear suspension mounts? Been searching for those but couldn't find anywhere that had both of them in stock at a reasonable price. Well I'm past the point of worrying about the cost. I just think now, well the Zahhak is way under it's original RRP (from what I can tell it was $369.00 MSRP) at the moment if you buy from Asia and you can't buy a TRF-201 new. So if you can't get a TRF-201 new you can't compare it. Sure If I could of got a TRF-201 for £200+ it would make sense not to upgrade but it is anyone's guess if they will ever come available again.
  12. Thanks. Yeah it is like a more involved DT02. With the lack of new buggy designs and trf in the scene stopped you would think Tamiya will have to use the various love babies of TRF201 - maybe use the foundation of the mid motor version to bring a new buggy out? I dunno there are only so many rere's they can do without needing to make something for the future they can rere. Shush, don't mention customs . I assume it's the coronavirus but everything I have had ordered from abroad and been delivered has had no additional charge, even the full car kit. Things are getting back to normal so this may change.
  13. With the front axles/wheel sorted I got back onto setting the camber and toe. Only getting back into RC recently I have no gauges so it was improvising. Not only that not really sure how much chamber or whether to toe the front wheels out. So having a quick read around I decided for initial set-up 1 or 2 degree camber all round and zero toe out on the front wheels. So firstly made some card camber gauges (which are simple based on right or wrong when checking) Then decided to go for 2 degree negative all round. The toe on the front wheels was done by using various measuring instruments - steel rule, digital calipers. It tracks pretty straight with no trim trim so I am happy.
  14. Manix92

    Rebuilding dn01

    Rb4276 looking at your pictures and needing to drill out a screw I'm beginning to think maybe I might add a aluminium skid plate and bond it to the bumper.
  15. Manix92

    Rebuilding dn01

    Anti-squat http://site.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201X_AntiSquat/ Default angle (kit angle) is 3 degree items 54242 & 54243
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