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About Manix92

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  1. Actually I have the last round of updates to add to the build, pictures are ready so I should get round to it. I would hate to go out and try and get the hop-ups I got for this now, knowing Tamiya they are even harder than ever to get. Lets be clear, a TRF 201 or a hop-up'd Zahhak (basically a TRF 201) are miles off being competition standard now - yes once they were but not now. There is nothing you can hop-up to change that. Looking at the 2022 Astute nothing is different there, it is fundamentally not suitable for modern competition no matter what you do.
  2. OK, actually it really needs to go for a run. No major issues with it, you can get away without certain mods but stuff like the slipper clutch I think are essential. The ball diff held up probably because of the slipper clutch. Not been paying attention to the new releases, I assume the chassis on the Zahhak is still the last true competition level Tamiya off road 2WD chassis unless something has changed in the last year. Getting spare parts may be problem, and probably so for the hop-ups too.
  3. If the hole has not been called up to tap in the tamiya instructions it is incorrect to use a tap on it be it especially form. Cut taps have a smaller tapping drill to form taps having a larger tapping drill. This is of especial concern for form taps because they will crack weak material or edge distance is small where the tapping hole is incorrect.
  4. I think most people will find with the glass filled/carbon fibre polymers the standard taps will be fine. I've had no problems. You can't reform glass/carbon fibre, the polymer you can. That is a quandary in itself.
  5. You are fine just getting standard taps, as I mentioned earlier you can get a full set of Presto or Dormer 1st, 2nd and 3rd taps for less money which makes the tamiya price a joke. Put that in context, at best the Tamiya version may be the same the quality, if you are lucky, as Presto or Dormer. You use Presto and Dormer in industry.
  6. Yeah it will do that, WeTransfer would have deleted the files a long time ago...... OK I was hoping I still had the models and have checked everywhere, unfortunately it works like they got binned when I had a mass clear out to reduce unneeded files on my CAD workstation to speed up back-ups. Checked the oldest backup and it isn't there either, it would have been on a old HDD external back-up but that drive has been destroyed for security since the move to T7 Samsung's for external back-ups. So sorry I can't help. BUT not is all lost try contacting a couple of the other guys on the thread who downloaded it and they may still have the files or know where you can get them.
  7. Quite a lot of the toolmakers were using 3D since the early 90's, I started dropping AutoCAD myself in 1995. Not picked up 2D other than modifying stuff since about 1997. The thing was in the early days of 3D CAD/CAM you didn't do the whole tool design on 3D because it would take too long. So you did it in 2D CAD and then just did the 3D surfaces on 3D CAD. In the 90's you were even getting SLA models done, especially on automotive stuff because the tooling could carry the cost. It was really expensive then though.
  8. They aren't using anything amazing, most of the tooling is pretty simple - the caveat that very few tools usually have so many impressions in the normal world and the runner system will be difficult to balance. Hence why there is some problems with repeatability and............. flash.........tool wear. I'm not 100% sure what year pre-hardend P20 steel came on the market but it was probably available in the 80's and def in the 90s, they would still make the tool out of that today. Unless they went to something like H13 steel fully hardened for glass filled on long mould runs. Sparking, wire erosion, and CNC were all there in the 80's for toolmakers - it just was a longer process. Tool quality was as good then as now the big difference is you paid for it. There is a simple answer to this just remember how much Tamiya kit was back then compared to todays money. On a side note - When injection moulding and trials have finished the moulder will produce a setting sheet for the mould machine, also there will be data for QC on critical dimensions that need to be checked. They will have reference mouldings and check the weight before continuing with moulding. At the end of the day this really hasn't changed from the 80's either just more and more of it has been digitised.
  9. The biggest problem with moulds out of production since the 80-90's is where will they have been stored and what state is the corrosion in. Sure when you put a steel tool away you will spray it will mould protection BUT when we are talking that long it would have been needed to be out and re-protected several times. A badly rusted tool can be more or less scrap.
  10. Good find but at £27 (seems the correct exchange rate) for a small aluminium nut I'm out. I will have a browse later see if they have anything else I need and maybe I can justify it then.
  11. The TRF201 part is unobtainium last time I tried to buy one. Durga could be a option but then again how easy is that to find and is it M2.5 which I believe the DN01 is.
  12. No sorry My second one is holding up still. I am considering getting some done on shapeways from aluminium or stainless steel/bronze or even the pure stainless mix, they would need to be tapped post production - I think it's M2.5. Then because they charge per part I was thinking maybe getting several joined together that need to cut/separated into the individual parts if that makes sense. I have been busy the last few weeks hence not being on here much. It shouldn't take long though to model in Solidworks when I get a chance.
  13. I would have thought if you have already built a Tamiya and found it pretty easy you shouldn't have a problem. Just take your time and ask questions if you aren't sure.
  14. Touch wood I still haven't had issues with my ball diff. Yeah those tyres aren't great on certain surfaces, no surprise. They are pretty good on fresh cut grass if it is short/dry (not lush grass) and the soil underneath is dry. Hard pack ground and tarmac OK too. Not tried them on carpet. BUT boy the stock tyres are horrendous on gravel - IF you manage to get speed up (being incredibly sensitive on the throttle) it is like a guided missile ready to bite you in the rear. It's all kind of relative though, as you say it behaves much better than the run of the mill Tamiya buggy. If you jump back onto a regular Tamiya buggy or have it running at the same time you realise how much faster you were/are going without issue. Not good for crashes that sense of security, I seem to be going much faster when something goes wrong, fortunately they seem pretty tough.
  15. To this day I have no idea what model of 2WD Tamiya buggy I first had. I bought it off a mate at school for about £40 in the 80's. All I can remember is that it had a aluminium bathtub chassis, it wasn't a Grasshopper or Hornet, a beetle ran over it on the road and flattened it (managed to bash the aluminium out to use again and no plastic parts got broke - go figure) and it ended up in a big pond which was the final thing before I sold it. Oh also remember getting in trouble for flatening the battery of next doors fiesta which we charged it off.
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