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Everything posted by Manix92

  1. Quite a lot of the toolmakers were using 3D since the early 90's, I started dropping AutoCAD myself in 1995. Not picked up 2D other than modifying stuff since about 1997. The thing was in the early days of 3D CAD/CAM you didn't do the whole tool design on 3D because it would take too long. So you did it in 2D CAD and then just did the 3D surfaces on 3D CAD. In the 90's you were even getting SLA models done, especially on automotive stuff because the tooling could carry the cost. It was really expensive then though.
  2. They aren't using anything amazing, most of the tooling is pretty simple - the caveat that very few tools usually have so many impressions in the normal world and the runner system will be difficult to balance. Hence why there is some problems with repeatability and............. flash.........tool wear. I'm not 100% sure what year pre-hardend P20 steel came on the market but it was probably available in the 80's and def in the 90s, they would still make the tool out of that today. Unless they went to something like H13 steel fully hardened for glass filled on long mould runs. Sparking, wire erosion, and CNC were all there in the 80's for toolmakers - it just was a longer process. Tool quality was as good then as now the big difference is you paid for it. There is a simple answer to this just remember how much Tamiya kit was back then compared to todays money. On a side note - When injection moulding and trials have finished the moulder will produce a setting sheet for the mould machine, also there will be data for QC on critical dimensions that need to be checked. They will have reference mouldings and check the weight before continuing with moulding. At the end of the day this really hasn't changed from the 80's either just more and more of it has been digitised.
  3. The biggest problem with moulds out of production since the 80-90's is where will they have been stored and what state is the corrosion in. Sure when you put a steel tool away you will spray it will mould protection BUT when we are talking that long it would have been needed to be out and re-protected several times. A badly rusted tool can be more or less scrap.
  4. Good find but at £27 (seems the correct exchange rate) for a small aluminium nut I'm out. I will have a browse later see if they have anything else I need and maybe I can justify it then.
  5. The TRF201 part is unobtainium last time I tried to buy one. Durga could be a option but then again how easy is that to find and is it M2.5 which I believe the DN01 is.
  6. No sorry My second one is holding up still. I am considering getting some done on shapeways from aluminium or stainless steel/bronze or even the pure stainless mix, they would need to be tapped post production - I think it's M2.5. Then because they charge per part I was thinking maybe getting several joined together that need to cut/separated into the individual parts if that makes sense. I have been busy the last few weeks hence not being on here much. It shouldn't take long though to model in Solidworks when I get a chance.
  7. I would have thought if you have already built a Tamiya and found it pretty easy you shouldn't have a problem. Just take your time and ask questions if you aren't sure.
  8. Touch wood I still haven't had issues with my ball diff. Yeah those tyres aren't great on certain surfaces, no surprise. They are pretty good on fresh cut grass if it is short/dry (not lush grass) and the soil underneath is dry. Hard pack ground and tarmac OK too. Not tried them on carpet. BUT boy the stock tyres are horrendous on gravel - IF you manage to get speed up (being incredibly sensitive on the throttle) it is like a guided missile ready to bite you in the rear. It's all kind of relative though, as you say it behaves much better than the run of the mill Tamiya buggy. If you jump back onto a regular Tamiya buggy or have it running at the same time you realise how much faster you were/are going without issue. Not good for crashes that sense of security, I seem to be going much faster when something goes wrong, fortunately they seem pretty tough.
  9. To this day I have no idea what model of 2WD Tamiya buggy I first had. I bought it off a mate at school for about £40 in the 80's. All I can remember is that it had a aluminium bathtub chassis, it wasn't a Grasshopper or Hornet, a beetle ran over it on the road and flattened it (managed to bash the aluminium out to use again and no plastic parts got broke - go figure) and it ended up in a big pond which was the final thing before I sold it. Oh also remember getting in trouble for flatening the battery of next doors fiesta which we charged it off.
  10. My TA03 just needs a bit of paint I'm getting there slowly. Lot of fun though these TA03 with all the bits. Can keep you busy for hours.
  11. Oh I would would love a desktop CNC VMC. The things I could do, I could dream all day about it. I have a seat of Solidworks which comes with machining software if you stay on subs each year so that part is covered. On top of that I spend most of my days designing stuff that will go straight on CNC machines. BUT ever time I get that itch to buy one, a new CNC is too expensive and any secondhand ones are either too big, too used, broken or made of cheese.
  12. In between fixing up the TA03 and upgrading the rising fighter a bit I managed to get back onto this and start getting some of the goodies on it. So first up on the last delivery I received the 5mm reinforced adjusters item number 54257. I'm still sceptical whether they really are any different to the black versions in the kit. Either way it allows me to put all the new hard turnbuckles on the front. Well it says (bit out of focus sorry) 'Made from a special low-friction nylon material'. Maybe they are better than the kit items. Anyhow it means I'm going to get these guys on now, so there will be a full set of 53943 turnbuckles front and back. Apart from looking nice they are so much easier to adjust. Oh but lets not forget adding the rest of the aluminium blue ball connectors! So as previous with the turnbuckles I measured the ones I was replacing and set the new ones to the same..... and on they went. # Next up, to finish the front, was add a set of front K blocks 54185 on some new rims. Strictly speaking these were designed for 4wd but Tamiya put them on the TRF201 and it's relatives only leaving out the DN-01. I will later be getting some front Hole Shots and fingers crossed that will cover me for most surfaces I will be using. On they go. Wow I got there, that is the front totally finished! No more upgrades on the front...................don't quote me on that Nest updates will be some goodies being installed on the rear.
  13. The Tamiya tap in the UK is like £20, I saw the price and just thought forget it. The fact that you can get a set M3 1st, 2nd and 3rd taps by the likes of Presto or Dormer for much less sealed the deal for me.
  14. Just fitted those RC bearings on the Rising fighter and they seem spot on fit and best of all it doesn't sound like a bag of bolts anymore.
  15. Yellow to spice things up, nice I take it you know the lightweight version of the motor plate doesn't have the deep recess for the screw on cover that the standard blue TRF version has to keep out dust? Just means you will get more dust on the pinion/slipper clutch/spur). I don't know how much difference it makes in practice as I have only ever had the standard TRF version on.
  16. Rest of my items that I had been waiting for were delivered today. So these with the other items I had delivered previously gives me plenty to do.
  17. Last couple of days really been getting on with cleaning, replacing and rebuilding the TA-03RS Lancia 037. So far done the front end, who knows what awaits on the rear end.
  18. I would have thought the closest you could get to the finish on a delorean is to use a brushed steel wrap. As has been stated they were bare metal but the stainless steel was then brushed - not polished. Stupid idea really stainless steel weighs more than normal steel used for car bodies so you are making the car heavier. Anyway what about something like this? https://www.wrapdirect.com/brushed-silver-aluminium-vinyl-with-adt/ Have no idea how well it would stick to the body and really you want brushed stainless not aluminium, sure someone would sell stainless version somewhere.
  19. Depending on the level of injection mould tool you can be looking at between 100,000 to millions of shots before it has had it. Aluminium tool regularly last 100,000 shots, a fully hardened all singing and dancing tool can be well in the millions. From the pictures I have seen Tamiya tools are steel, probably pre-hardened P20 for general stuff which should last 100,000's if treated correctly. It all get's murky though when we move onto the glass filled and carbon filled mouldings. Adding a filler like that wears the tool and the mould machine barrel/screw. The tools have got to be fully hardened and therefore are very expensive. But basically yeah there is a high investment. I do wonder if this is what drives the Tamiya ReRe program? Some maintenance on old tools + re-polish and they are good to go again. The problem with CNC routing a flat sheet is that it's flat and that is the limit of your design - within reason you can mould any shape. But for sure it simplifies the design process and initial outlay. There is one thing generally speaking RC car aluminium parts should generally be considered inferior to high carbon fibre filled polymers - obviously a reasonable grade of aluminium is better for not stripping thread and probably does better at not wearing when ground against concrete but given that the strength is probably as high or higher in a high carbon filled polymer there is a massive weight saving.
  20. I assume some of the current love for the DN-01/TRF-201, and the later iterations, is that it could be the last time Tamiya seriously did a 2wd buggy aimed to race at European/World level and even had some success. All be it 10 years ago now and maybe you can push it to 6 years ago with the extended chassis mid motor Frankenstein version. I think I'm leaning towards a DB-01 at the minute for the next build to fill the 4wd buggy side of my garage. See how I feel later if I start having trouble with ball diffs. Looking forward to the DT02+ and what you have planned.
  21. Just out of interest the Rising Fighter instruction manual suggests 50519 mini shock & 50520 short shock, is the 54567 basically these two items in one packet?
  22. Somehow with my daughter I always end up running the Rising Fighter while she runs the DN-01 with power turned down. I get about five minutes of joy tops before it is "can we swap?".
  23. I'm finding a lot of problems on my TA03r-s at the moment. Seems a lot of the plastic is going weak, most of the basic parts are easy enough to get though. Some of the plastic trees if you have to get them off ebay are overpriced.
  24. I think Torq screws would be the better option than cross head or hex drive.
  25. Right the aeration buggy damper set, the memories of the pain have pretty much gone now. It all started so well and then went downhill... So this is the package Tamiya 54028. Note the cardboard inner that comes in the story later. Rear of the package. No mention of DN-01 or the TRF-201 it came standard on. Nothing new there. Items unpacked. There is something missing, not that I was aware of it yet. Along with the instructions in the pack I also had a print of the TRF-201. The shims they stated on the TRF 201 were slightly different from memory. I also had the DN-01 instructions which mention the Aeration damper hop-up as a upgrade. I decided to do all four dampers simultaneously. You have to take the adjusters off and add some O rings in various places then you can get the adjusters back on. You have to put a shim in between the piston and the c clips on the shafts, easy to miss. Also nylon guides get pushed into the main barrel and the cap and there is a crazy small detail you have to get the right way round. So this is the point it all went wrong. Next up was assemble all the O rings, shims and get the piston shaft into the barrel. I couldn't find the shims anywhere in any of the bags - I needed 8. After about an hour of trying to find where I had dropped them I start looking through spare parts but that was no good either as none matched what was needed another hour passed....... At this point I thought it was the end. Sitting there I just picked the box up pretty demoralised. Yes then after all that time I thought hold on there is that inner cardboard in the box. Pulling it out revealed a pack of shims stuck to it with sellotape sandwiched between the outer and inner so you couldn't see it. Felt pretty stupid, should have pulled it out ages ago. Anyway could get the next step done now and fit the shafts. End connectors on. Tapped M3 to make life easy. Got them filled up Springs on Deciding which mounting system - so it will be the DB-01which matches the TRF-201 instructions. The DN-01 manual calls for you to use certain items in the kit. Now the DN-01 manual is telling you to use the thin M3 nuts in the kit, also there are M3 nuts in the Buggy Damper kit. The trouble with this is you end up with a load of thread showing!! Looks horrible. My solution, which was far from perfect but looked better, was to use a 5mm ball nut. Don't do this!!! So it was all assembled on the car. BIG PROBLEMS They sounded horrible and the pistons were grinding against the barrel. At this point I thought it was something I had done in putting them together and was not looking forward to dismantling. I had had enough so just left it for the day to sleep on it. Following day I came back to it and thought I would try a few things to figure out what was going on. WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS IS THOSE BALL NUTS! If you loosen them so there was play the grinding went away, the way they clamped was stopping the top of the damper rotating when compressed so forcing the piston to rub against the barrel. Which then meant I had to revert to the silly slim M3 nuts the DN-01 manual told me to use and leave a load of thread showing So here is the point of feeling pretty stupid again, the answer was always in front of me. The TRF-201 manual calls for a part X2 and.............. it is on the parts try in the Aeration Damper Kit . Forget the DN-01 manual use this part it is telling you to use in the TRF-201 manual. The X2 part works perfect and looks right. Had a fiddle with the set-up after fixing the problem. The TRF-201 manual states a 23mm ground clearance for initial set-up. I have gone for more like 25mm and see how I get on. Initial thoughts on multi-surface is probably a fair bit of improvement on cornering (washes out less) and better transition from one surface to another (more settled and grips better).
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