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About Matty36

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  1. Matty36

    Which kyosho model

    I will try them, does anyone know if they used 2 inch wheels, or 2.2 inch.
  2. I have had this kyosho for a long time, but it never had a body since I got it. Does anyone know which model it is, i thought it was a lazer but I'm not sure as it has a cut out opposite the servo. I know it's not the best picture. I'm trying to find a body and wheels, but I have some standard 12mm buggy hex wheels to go on it for now.
  3. Sorry to confuse anyone, but the shocks wont be rock solid as all the extra fluid is pushed out the top before fully tightening the lid, basically with the piston fully pushed in, so just leaves oil and no air in the body. Some shocks have a small screw to let the air out, and a bladder inside.
  4. I always use to break wishbones and shock towers in my 2wd buggys, as they were very exposed and generally the weakest point to save the chassis from damage. In my 4wd losi xxx4, it would break lose the hinge pin balls, which were replaceable, until one day I realised that they were coming out because the diff case was splitting apart on impact, so after I fitted some braces across it, I never lost a single one. Shock towers on that buggy were prone to breaking, and I still have about 10 in my spares box. My touring cars were a lot more reliable, the odd wishbone would go after an impact with track markings, although I did split a chassis and my xray driveshaft broke which apparently are indestructible and cost my £25 in 2007 to replace just one. Now it's my drift car project, so wont get to see a track for a long time if ever.
  5. Yeah, if you dont oil the o-rings, they may get damaged as the edge of the o-ring will be dry when moving in the shock body, but also when assembling the shock cartridge they generally get caught then leak over time. I usually put a bit of shock oil on some kitchen towel and rub the o-ring in it.
  6. I have always built mine the same way, I lubricate the o-rings before assembly, fill up 3/4 with oil, work up and down to get the air out, leave them stood up for a while until all air is gone. Then fill up with oil, some in the cap, then fit the cap but leave it loose, push the piston until it pushes the air out and it will push spare fluid out then tighten the cap. If I want a bit more rebound, I tend to tighten the cap just before its pushed all the way in. That may not be the perfect way, but I have never had any issues in 20 years of race use.
  7. Matty36

    Xray T2

    Now with a front anti roll bar, to try and help with front roll. I have yet to try it with any power, as I am waiting for some steering turnbuckles to arrive. The front wheels are an 8mm offset, the rears are 11mm offset, I'm thinking about putting the gold 5mm ones on. I still need to cut a plate to sit under the front servo mount, but 2 washers have worked fine for now.
  8. I just buy something if I like it, the price is a small factor. If they re released the ta01 escort cosworth, I would probably buy it even if it was expensive, but only if funds allow. I bought a new old stock team associated B5M champions edition this year, even though it was as expensive as the newer B6, because i had one when it was first released in 2013 but had to sell it later in 2013.
  9. If it's anything like the charger I have, I used to just set it to nimh mode and set it to 7.2v then it did it all itself, as it cannot balance that type of battery. The only setting after that was amps so I just set it to 3amp as i used to use 3300 nimhs. The only thing that was never known was how charged the battery was, all it showed on the screen was how much capacity was put into the battery ( basically if it stopped charging at 1650ma, that was just what it needed to top the battery back up, so it would have already had half charge in it ) Lipo mode is completely different, it really should be balance charged, I would hope that the screen would show what each cell has and may just show the total volts that it is charging to, rather than the amps per cell, which if it's a 7.4v 2s then that has to be the setting used, mine shows it as 3.7v per cell as its charging.
  10. Matty36

    Xray T2

    I then decided to run the steering arms through the front diff housing, to hopefully get the full steering lock I'm trying to achieve. This meant turning the steering servo around and angling it to fit easier. I then had nowhere to fit the shocks, as once I do get full steering lock, the shocks would be in the way. Mounting the shock on top seemed like the best idea, but it took a while to decide how to do it with the parts I had in the spares box. It started with a schumacher shock, now it has the xray one. I still need to decide how to make the steering turnbuckles to avoid the hub as the plastic mockup ones touch on 50% lock.
  11. Matty36

    Xray T2

    It didn't quite work out as I had wanted, so I had a look at the schumacher stuff again. This is with the schumacher front end. Good steering lock but not good enough as a drift car.
  12. Matty36

    Xray T2

    Now for some fairly large changes, I had decided a while ago that if I'm going to make it into a drift car, that I should try and sort out the steering to allow more steering lock. I have a few schumacher touring cars from the early 00's, so I thought about using the hubs and wishbones as they dont use a c-hub so can allow full steering. They obviously wont all fit together as it is a different design, so I had to get some ideas together. The first mockup was to use the steering in it's original position.
  13. My view is as a racer, not a basher, using nicad, nimh and lipo over the last 20 years. The nicad batteries were only 6 cell, so 7.2v, 7 cell batteries were not allowed in a race buggy. During the 5 minute race, you were lucky to get a few laps practice followed by the 5 minute race, that was if the brushed motor didn't have a sticking brush, or the battery would slow down in the last lap. The nimh batteries again were 6 cell 7.2v, and lasted a bit longer without going slow after 4.5 minutes. Brushless motors started appearing but I didn't make the change until 2005 or 2006. If it was too hot, the battery would stop charging early. Lipo batteries are 7.4v, as we only use the 2s ones, and now couple that to a brushless motor, we can now do 5 laps practice, 5 minute race, slow lap at end and never see a drop in power. Now I can do 2 races without even charging the battery. I think lipo is good, now life 7.6v batteries are out and supposedly safer. I would be more than happy only getting one race season out of a lipo, as nicad and nimh batteries did last a few thousand charges, but I much prefer the modern types, with no motor to skim and change brushes every 2 races, the cost now is minimal in comparison I think.
  14. I never know how long storage mode lasts, I ruined my last few packs because I didn't use them for a year and they puffed up.
  15. Most shocks will be fine, as long as they attach to the chassis the same way, I had to change the screws that held my ta01 shocks on as I have used schumacher touring car shocks. I bought a cheap aftermarket set for my truck, yet to be tested off road due to the lockdown, but they seem to work okay.
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