bikerclubby
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Posts posted by bikerclubby
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Just finished mine off properly today, can‘t say I noticed anything wrong with the tyres.
Lovely build, but a bit worrying that there’s so many left over screws. Generally only one of each, so I’m guessing it’s meant and I’ve just not totally cocked up every stage of the build. Suspension took a few goes to get all the joints pointing the correct way, but satisfying. -
JIS screwdrivers indispensable for Tamiya stuff. Recently bought a set of hex drivers in small sizes (1.5 - 3mm). Much stiffer an easier to use than small allen keys.
Weirdest tool is a set of toe nail pliers for removing parts from bulk mouldings!-
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1 hour ago, markbt73 said:
Sure, give it a try, especially if you can gear it down. A little wheel speed isn't necessarily a bad thing for a crawler, and sometimes it helps. But if it's something with limited gearing choices (CC01 for example), I'd stick with the 55 turn.
Also, crawlers get boring really quickly on the wrong terrain. You have to give them something to crawl over, or else it's just a slow monster truck. But if you find a pile of rocks or bricks or something, you start to understand it: picking the right line, placing the wheels just-so to keep it upright but still have enough traction to go up, gently easing into the throttle here, punching it to "pop" the wheels over an obstacle there... it's very rewarding, and a totally different skill set from driving buggies fast around a track.
It’s a GMade GS02 BOM, pretty decent choice of gearing. Think I’ll stick with the 55t just now, can always for the other on in at a later date. There’s also an optional Hilo box but it’s out of stock just now. Get what you mean about terrain, I live on the coast and am always out walking with my little boy. No need to make up courses when I’ve natural rocks and stones to play on. Some steep sided woods on one of our other frequent walks as well.
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Just built up my first crawler with a 55t crawler motor. Does the job but a lot slower than the buggy I’m used to. Have a spare Torque tuned can and wondered how it fares in a crawler? I know that crawlers aren’t supposed to be fast but just wondering.
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11 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:
I tried the oven trick on some preglued wheels/tires from HPI. It stank and my wife was mad. And the glue did not come loose.
Terry
That’s why you do it while they’re at work.
Never done it with pre-glued tyres, but definitely works with CA tyre glue. First attempt got concerned by the smell and didn’t leave them in long enough, put them back in and left for full 20 minutes and they came off cleanly leavings rims and foams ready to use again.
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Glued rims and tyres can be baked in the oven for 20 minutes at 160deg ( with your other half out of the house. My god it stinks) to soften the glue. Tyres come off easily and cleanly, just use oven gloves or a towel to handle them.
Did my whole collection recently to finally get matched sets of preferred tyres on the same rims.
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I know nothing about crawlers and very little about rc in general, but for what it’s worth my BOM arrived today.
Like you I also looked at the Axial, but the builders kit was expensive considering what else you need. Also didn’t want rtr as building is half the fun.
Had also read about the transmission problems but according to rccrawler site, all new kits come with redesigned parts which solve the issue. Spares look non existent at the moment but that’s pretty standard for any rc at the moment Modelsport list them all and a lot have a prospective October arrival date
In the end, I love the looks and I’m sure it’ll be more than tough enough for my needs.
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I’m using double sided 3M extreme tape used for hanging pictures. Rated for 10kg picture frames which is plenty for keeping body secure and allows magnets to be pulled apart.
Easy to cut to shape and hasn’t affected paint.
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Nothing wrong with the actual damper, just the spring rate. They work really nicely with a stiffer spring front and rear. I used DF-03 spring pack which come with three choices, all stiffer than the stick ones.
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5 hours ago, Mad Ax said:
As mentioned above, it's not without its flaws - needing a screwdriver to change the battery is a pain, and electrical space is very limited. I had to try 3 different ESCs before I found one that would fit, then I had to solder on all new longer motor wires, and be very careful about my routing because space is so tight.
What Ecu dimensions did you have trouble with? Footprint or height?
My preferred combo is quite neat but tall due to built in fan. I know the chassis has covers for the electrics. My ecu is waterproof so was just going to run without one. -
Have been eyeing one up for a while. Have a brushless combo sitting waiting for a new home. One of these with a slipper would be awesome.
Found a good series of videos on You Tube (Mark Bryan RC) where two friends test it back to back with the TT-02 version.
XV-01 faster, better turning circle and easier to control than stock TT-02. TT-02 got closer when they changed to CVAs then modified most parts of it.
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So finally got around to attempting the paint job on the Beetle shell. Took a lot of trimming to get it to fit, especially around the front wheels and the gearbox. In hindsight the Kamtec Baja Crawler body would have been an easier fit at the front, but I had a specific plan for the two tone paint and wanted front fenders. Not much of them left but the still looks kinda like I planned.
Body mounts are a mixture of post at the front, J posts left over from the original kit and magnetic mounts at the rear. Due to the height of the roof, there was no easy looking way of using post mounts, but these magnetic mounts fix on top of the original mounts for the Racing Fighter shell and make for an easy conversion. Unfortunately the roof curves at exactly the wrong place, so the magnets aren't an exact fit, but I'm using three on the roof to add some bulk and the extra power snaps them into place securely. The bonus of this is I can still rear the power switch in it's original location without completely removing the shell.
Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr
Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr
Now to the paint! All I can say is please be kind. It's only my second ever paint job and the first time I've tried two tone.
Masking was more difficult than I thought, made worse by using paper tape as that's all I had. Next time (if there is a next time) I will be a good boy and get proper thin modellers masking tape. Most of the lines are a bit wobbly and crooked. I'm also left with a bit of overspray on one side that I didn't notice had crept under the tape before spraying the white. Had seen other areas but these were on the outer film, I thought the other bit was the same, but proved to be mistaken. Also had a bit of cracking when I removed the window mask. Have a bit of the white paint left, maybe going to try spraying it into the cap then brushing on. Wondering if Tipex/Copydex might work as a touch up for small areas? It's the right colour and has pretty good coverage. Thinking of trying to do some black window lining to help hide these areas, but do worry that this might just make things looks worse.
Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr
Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr
Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr
Untitled by Steven Clubb, on Flickr
Overall, good from afar but far from good. Got a decal sheet on order from Ebay with some big number and logos, hoping these will cover or distract from some of the worst areas.
In my favour is the fact that it's a runner and not a shelf queen. If the original body is anything to go by, it won't be long before this one has plenty of patina.
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Just small areas. Don’t fancy trying to re-mask as my taping job for the two tone part was hardly stellar in the first place! Colour is PS1 white.
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Tore a couple of areas of paint removing the window masks. What is the best way to touch up the areas? Is it possible to spray the paint into the cap to make a pool and then brush the areas?
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How was the traction/handling with the 15t?
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Good fix. I got fed up of this too but bought a pack of ball connectors instead.
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Going to use buggy and blitzer wheels depending on where in running. Bought blitzer uprights and can space them for buggy wheels, although one is broken at the moment due to collision with tree.
If you don’t plan on running buggy shell as well, my journey is a more expensive one. Other option if you want dt-03 is to buy an aqroshot, then all you need extra is a Kamtec shell. -
4 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:
Somebody has started something similar on a DT03...
Seeing how tough the DT03 is for bashing I would be leaning that way if it was me.
That would be me
Kamtec shell is a perfect fit length wise for the DT-03. Front arches needed a lot of trimming to clear blitzer wheels and front suspension arms. Rear as well, especially to clear the gearbox. Could have saved a bit of hassle by going for the Baja crawler version of the shell. It’s the same but without the front arches.
Sure it would fit a DT-02 as well, may even need less trimming at the back as it’s a bit shorter.
Can confirm the DT-03 is tough. Have cracked part of the chassis nose but only because I like to jump it and had added a 3400kv brushless.
Obviously a Blitzer kit will be easier and probably cheaper in the end, but the figuring out process is half the fun.
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Bit the bullet a few days ago and gave it a go. Used my Dremmel, firstly with a pointed engraving bit to get the hole started then a 3mm drill bit. Used the side of the bit to widen the hole to the right size. Dremmel is pretty high speed and made quick work of it.
I know a proper reamer is the correct tool but the shell is a one off and couldn’t justify another tool.
Thanks for all your advice. -
29 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:
My DT-02 is very happy with the 13.5t Bluebottle that I fitted a few months back.
Plenty of power to make it avesome fun to drive, but not so much that it becomes an uncontrollable accident waiting to happen.
What’s the kv rating of the 13.5t motor?
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Conversely, I’ve just taken a brushless out and put the Torque tuned back in. Bought a Absima 3400kv brushless and esc combo a few months ago, but it made the car uncontrollable off-road. Even on tarmac the car struggled to put the power down and would spin out. Changed the punch setting to minimum and still could barely use full throttle. Top speed was pretty fun though, but needed a lot of space.
Was out today with torque tuned and the car was way more fun. Wondering if a Sport tuned might add an extra bit of pep?
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3 hours ago, Carmine A said:
@bikerclubby I have 4 RC Crawlers... EVERY one has Rare Earth Magnets as the only means of holding the Body on. I have no issues at all. 😁 Of course on a good day, they'll never pass 11mph!! But they have taken a few tumbles down Hillsides....
It's absolutely my preferred method. I was actually UPSET when I found out that the Body I ordered for my M05 Build - has PRE DRILLED Body Holes!!! 😖😡😠 WORSE, the back Holes go through the WINDOW!
I'm literally thinking about cutting out the whole back Window, and gluing a Lexan Sheet in its place.
I've grown to dislike Holes and Posts protruding through my Bodies....
Yeah, wishing I’d found them before drilling the front holes.
Nevermind, I’ll know for the next one.
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Thanks for all the positive comments. Have finally built up my courage and drilled the front post mounts. A bit scary but done now and happy with positioning. Still trying to figure the rear. Anyone use magnetic mounts off road? Discovered them on a google search but seem mainly aimed at touring cars. Think they could be an option using the original rear mounts, which come up too short to reach roof at the moment. Not sure how secure they are in a crash, given how much time my car seems to spend on its roof!
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That looks low, even for stock DT03 springs. Are you sure you’ve got the shocks built correctly?
I prefer the DF03 spring kit to the DT03 one, as the springs are silver or black rather than the garish red or blue.
Torque tuned in a crawler?
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
Found part of the reason for my lack of speed. Slipper wasn’t nearly right enough and motor was just spinning at higher rpms. Difficult to properly tighten in initial build phase as the gearbox output shafts so small to hold. Much easier to tighten once installed in complete chassis with wheels to hold. Luckily the pinion is accessible with just 4 screws to come out. Lesson learned and much better performing crawler.