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About Room335

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  • Birthday 09/07/1975

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  1. Good info @Twinfan, thanks. I suspect the DB01 set 54024 is Grade 2. I would describe them as "darker grey" like @94eg! mentions in his earlier post.
  2. For what I’ve read steel beats titanium in hardness. Titanium has a better strength to weight ratio, but when talking about the same amount of material, steel is considered “stronger”. Probably also depends on the percentage of titanium in the alloy. I was surprised too, considering this was genuine Tamiya hardware. edit: Reading back through this thread several posters commented on Titanium being softer than steel. Seems like the main benefits are weight savings and corrosion resistance.
  3. Just wanted to share my experience with titanium screws. Bought set 54024 for my current Durga build; saw them cheap somewhere and figured I'd give them a try. Assumed since they were hex heads, it was all good and I was excited to try them out. For context I've built around 20 kits, and have been very fortunate to avoid stripping any screws, JIS or hex. Well that all ended with my fancy titanium set , as I managed to strip a hex head that was directly into the chassis. I should also mention that I only use Tamiya tools, so this was not a tool issue. I like to walk away from engineering problems for a few days, because I usually come up with a better solution in the long run. My knee-jerk reaction was to Dremel the plastic part (the spur gear cover) that needed the offending screw hole, but that would have been a mistake. After taking a breather, I decided to use a Dremel cutting wheel to slot the hex head. Wasn't sure how the cutting wheel would hold up to titanium, but it worked perfectly. I was then able to use a slotted screwdriver to easily remove. Crisis averted and the build continues. Just wanted to share in case this helps someone else. Worth noting that I taped up the chassis pretty good to avoid metal shavings getting into any moving parts.
  4. @urban warrior Is he scratching his chin? Or gasping in awe?!
  5. The GT3 body is a 251mm wheelbase. Fortunately my son has a TT-02 set up for 251, so I added some rally tires and dropped the shell onto it. Ideally I'd like to use my (unbuilt) XV-01, but not sure if it can be set up for 251?
  6. Finished my 911 Dakar Rally. Body is from the 911 GT3 Cup VIP Kit 47429. Decals are a custom creation from MCI. Pretty happy with how this one turned out.
  7. Finally got some paint on the Egress. PS-49 with white backing, MCI decals.
  8. Just noticed that the 60 Gold body appears to have body post "guide dimples" for both the EP and CRC chassis. So you should be good to go. And if you choose to go the RM-01 Porsche route like I did, here's what that looks like. Perfect fit.
  9. I have the EP and 60th Gold edition. If you look at the chassis pics in the other Fantom thread, it appears the CRC and the 60 Gold share the same top deck. The EP is slightly different. All 3 list the same wheelbase on the Kyosho site. Here's a side-by-side of my EP and 60 Gold body (gold on the right). They are slightly different in how the driver area is molded. Also note that the body holes are NOT pre-drilled, so that helps for "inter-changability" . I think the CRC body will work fine on the EP chassis.
  10. I have a NIB 58569 kit and the decals are NOT pre-cut. Just FYI
  11. Room335

    Kyosho Fantom

    Great idea @_Ben_, wish I had done that before running my Fantom. @silvertriple made a custom chain guide you can see here:
  12. Room335

    Kyosho Fantom

    Main difference is the addition of the rear shock absorber. Top deck looks a little different too. I just picked up the 60th anniversary gold edition to go with my original EP
  13. Bump. I find it hard to believe that nobody has tried to match hop-up blue with some combo of PS paints?? Come on guys! Or am I overthinking this...should I just use PS-30 and call it a day?
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