Room335

Thank you for all the responses. I will post back when I reach this part of the build.

Amazing work @wtcc5. The pictures, the 3D printing...awesome. I have a stable of Group C kits waiting to be built and this thread is really inspiring. Love your passion for these cars!

Bumping an old thread. Looking to use 12 mm hex wheels on an upcoming Scorcher build. Anyone tried hex adapters like these?

Just finished my Astute. Upgrades are carbon fiber chassis, hard turnbuckles, Hi-caps, and hex hardware. I found this to be a really good chassis to convert to hex, as there are very few self-tapping screws. Also first time using wire braiding...that's trickier than it looks! Kudos to you guys who make it look factory Tires are from Blockhead Motors. Custom paint and decals to follow!

I'm still pretty new to soldering myself, but just came across a few helpful tips: Heat shrink tubing (the flat style) can be stretched, if you work it slowly with needle-nose pliers. This is really helpful if you forget the heat shrink tubing before soldering a batter connector. When soldering a battery connector like an XT60, connect the corresponding male or female plug to act as a heat sink. This will help avoid distorting the plastic.

Bummer. Looks like someone tried one of the Dragon bodies here

Revive RC made a body for the TD4, pretty sure it was adaptable for the TD2. Not sure if they are still available? I can send pics of the unfinished body if it helps.

For me, the film peel is a wave of emotions. Glee, followed by the remorse of overspray/bleed/uneven lines, and eventually glee again when decals are applied and it looks pretty darn good. A smooth diff is also a proud moment. And more recently I’ve come to realize that having a turnbuckle tool is pure bliss.

I recently noticed that I have a backlog of kits to build, so I thought this might be a good time to order some bulk hex head machine screws. I quickly went through a few of my buggy manuals (SA, BBX, TD4) and came up with the list below. For those of you that have gone this route (of buying screws in bulk), are there any additional you would add? I'm sure that I'm missing a few. And to @Digitaldave's question, has anyone replaced the JIS self-tappers with hex? Seems like those are a little harder to find. Button Head: M3 x 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 16mm, 20mm Flat Head: M3 x 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm Cap Head: M3 x 8mm I know I'm missing M2.6, those also seemed harder to find. Anyone bother replacing those?

I have a Fantom and a Fantom Gold. Tennis courts are a nice option for running them.

Just my 2 cents...I had bad luck with Tamiya titanium screws. I tried them on my DB-01 build and stripped one immediately. Turns out Titanium is only stronger by its strength to weight ratio. Steel generally has an overall higher hardness.

If using the MCI custom decal creator, you will need to use the "Add Graphic" menu. From there, search for "Slime" and you will see multiple options. See screenshot below for the ones I found. When you insert a graphic, you will see a sub-menu with the size shown (4.55" x 2.85"). You can measure your Comical Avante body and size each graphic accordingly. Quick note about the size...you may need to unlock the height to width ratio, to get the sizing just right. I made a custom decal set for a Rothman's Porsche Dakar Rally, and it worked out great. Good luck!

That's one of the coolest-looking "custom" buggies I've seen in a long time. I can see why it was an impulse buy! Modern RC's with a nod to the past...definitely one of my favorite things about this hobby.

Looks like a couple of options on EBay

Looks like Tamico has the Comical Avante body in stock. Couple of US suppliers have the Comical Avante kit...AMain and Tower. For decals, try MCI (based in Canada). They have a custom decal option and you can select shapes. Search for "Slime", there are some options that look pretty close to the movie car. You can also change the color with the custom option. Just be careful with scaling relative to the body you choose!