Room335
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Posts posted by Room335
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Another option is to look at the 1/12 pan cars, which may open up some more Group C options. Seems like a lot of them are around 200mm wheelbase, including the Kyosho Fantom. The RM-01 bodies (if you can find one) fit the Fantom nicely and I would assume other pan cars as well.
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Wow look at all that CF
What is the spring on the top deck? Is that for chassis flex, or some kind of belt tensioner?
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2 hours ago, technics said:I tried my best making an oem like colour. Not quiet there but I believe it will look nice when finished. If I was to try again I’d experiment using translucent silver as a base with a metallic blue backing.
Personally I think the PS-49 looks better than the OEM blue. Just my .02
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Finishing touches on my DB01 Durga with Baldre shell. Original plan was to use the Baldre decals with a pink & white paint scheme, but just wasn't happy with how it was coming together. I think the Baldre decals just felt toy-like, and the foil finish wasn't working for me. So I pivoted to a pinstripe design.
A little side-note...the blue stripe is a Traxxas Prographix color. First time trying this paint, and semi-close in color to Tamiya blue bling. Seemed like a finer mist than Tamiya PS, and definitely more prone to runs. But pretty decent overall. I have a few more colors and I'm planning to do the Durga shell with them. Will report back in case someone plans to try them out.
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On 9/1/2022 at 4:26 PM, 94eg! said:The darker grey Ti screws like Tamiya's original Phillips/JIS ones from the 80s are grade 2 which is also referred to as CP (commercially pure). This titanium is light but also soft. Stronger than aluminium but slightly heavier.
Most silver colored Ti screws these days are a tougher Grade 5 alloy also called 6AL-4V (6% aluminum & 4% vanadium). These are much stronger and weigh about the same as grade 2. Not as strong as steel of course.
Titanium screws weight about 40% less than steel.
Aluminum screws weight 60% less than steel (and are the weakest of all)
Good info @Twinfan, thanks. I suspect the DB01 set 54024 is Grade 2. I would describe them as "darker grey" like @94eg! mentions in his earlier post.
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For what I’ve read steel beats titanium in hardness. Titanium has a better strength to weight ratio, but when talking about the same amount of material, steel is considered “stronger”. Probably also depends on the percentage of titanium in the alloy. I was surprised too, considering this was genuine Tamiya hardware.
edit: Reading back through this thread several posters commented on Titanium being softer than steel. Seems like the main benefits are weight savings and corrosion resistance.
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Just wanted to share my experience with titanium screws. Bought set 54024 for my current Durga build; saw them cheap somewhere and figured I'd give them a try. Assumed since they were hex heads, it was all good and I was excited to try them out. For context I've built around 20 kits, and have been very fortunate to avoid stripping any screws, JIS or hex. Well that all ended with my fancy titanium set
, as I managed to strip a hex head that was directly into the chassis. I should also mention that I only use Tamiya tools, so this was not a tool issue.
I like to walk away from engineering problems for a few days, because I usually come up with a better solution in the long run. My knee-jerk reaction was to Dremel the plastic part (the spur gear cover) that needed the offending screw hole, but that would have been a mistake. After taking a breather, I decided to use a Dremel cutting wheel to slot the hex head. Wasn't sure how the cutting wheel would hold up to titanium, but it worked perfectly. I was then able to use a slotted screwdriver to easily remove.
Crisis averted and the build continues. Just wanted to share in case this helps someone else. Worth noting that I taped up the chassis pretty good to avoid metal shavings getting into any moving parts.
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25 minutes ago, Elbowloh said:Nice.
What chassis did you put it on?
The GT3 body is a 251mm wheelbase. Fortunately my son has a TT-02 set up for 251, so I added some rally tires and dropped the shell onto it. Ideally I'd like to use my (unbuilt) XV-01, but not sure if it can be set up for 251?
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Finished my 911 Dakar Rally. Body is from the 911 GT3 Cup VIP Kit 47429. Decals are a custom creation from MCI. Pretty happy with how this one turned out.
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Finally got some paint on the Egress. PS-49 with white backing, MCI decals.
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Just noticed that the 60 Gold body appears to have body post "guide dimples" for both the EP and CRC chassis. So you should be good to go.
And if you choose to go the RM-01 Porsche route like I did, here's what that looks like. Perfect fit.
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I have the EP and 60th Gold edition. If you look at the chassis pics in the other Fantom thread, it appears the CRC and the 60 Gold share the same top deck. The EP is slightly different.
All 3 list the same wheelbase on the Kyosho site. Here's a side-by-side of my EP and 60 Gold body (gold on the right). They are slightly different in how the driver area is molded. Also note that the body holes are NOT pre-drilled, so that helps for "inter-changability"
. I think the CRC body will work fine on the EP chassis.
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On 12/5/2023 at 5:39 AM, Tamiyabigstuff said:#9495781 is listed for kit 58569 which is the XV-01 kit - not sure if this has a factory finished body or not.
I have a NIB 58569 kit and the decals are NOT pre-cut. Just FYI
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Great idea @_Ben_, wish I had done that before running my Fantom.
@silvertriple made a custom chain guide you can see here:
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12 hours ago, kyoshofan223 said:- One other bit of info I've been unable to find - anyone know the difference between the original re-re & the CRC-II?
Main difference is the addition of the rear shock absorber. Top deck looks a little different too. I just picked up the 60th anniversary gold edition to go with my original EP
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Bump. I find it hard to believe that nobody has tried to match hop-up blue with some combo of PS paints?? Come on guys!
Or am I overthinking this...should I just use PS-30 and call it a day?
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From the LHS
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Wondering if anyone has found a combination of Tamiya PS paint that matches the blue hop-up parts? I just tried 2 coats of PS-38 Translucent Blue and backed with PS-25 Bright Green. Not even close…this came out as Hunter Green.
To my eyes, the hop-up blue anodizing is more of a teal blue. Has anyone cracked the code for the polycarbonate match? -
Finally got around to completing my DN01 Zahhak in RC10-style livery.
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First time using Buyee. I wasn’t looking for anything specific, but this seemed like a pretty rare kit and the price was too good to pass up.
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21 hours ago, Raman36 said:As Mahjik mentioned couple of pages back, the horizon / tower system upgrade has been a mess. It’s created all sorts of errors with back orders. I just finished a chat session with them. I provided them with order number. They had to cancel my pre-order from 2/6 and have me resubmit. They gave me a courtesy credit for $25 as well. Once I resubmitted the order, the agent edited it to make sure I’m back to my original prior to for 2/6/23 🤞
Have patience with the chat functionality because it’s painful..
I just used the chat function. Told me to check back in September. Original order placed 2/5.
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Another vote for the Scorpion wheels. And the PS-30 looks great too!
What other bodies are available now and fit the Group C (C11) chassis?
in General discussions
Posted
Sorry I should have been more clear…I was suggesting to use a pan car chassis instead of the C11, just to give some more options for Group C bodies.