BOARDRIDER
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Posts posted by BOARDRIDER
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Got the manual sorted now, had to download a page at a time but got there in the end; this is it if anyone needs it http://www.retromodelisme.com/manuel_page/24/lazer-zx-kyosho.html
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9 hours ago, Champ85 said:Thanks!
I used Tamiya PS16 Metal Blue. I documented the restoration of that car here: http://fun-with-rc.blogspot.com/2015/08/kyosho-lazer-zx-restoration-finished.html
The Lazer ZX is kind of a weird egg in that respect. Forward power is almost 95% from the front wheels, at least in my cars which are built stock per the manual. The rear wheel drive power seems to rely on the spur/diff assembly and how tight the nut is on the motor side of the top shaft to determine how much forward power the rear offers. On my cars, it isn't much.
On my cars, going around a corner slowly and then punching it will cause the inner front wheel to lose traction and spin like crazy. The front and rear diffs inside the gearboxes are the stock gear ones.
Braking, however is the reverse. The rear wheels provide almost all of the braking power. The one-way bearings in the top shaft really mess with power delivery and braking and many racers dislike how it operates. Some people would lock the spur/diff so it was solid I think.
I don't run my cars hard, so I don't really care how much power the rear wheels supply to forward motion. I just run on asphalt in a mild-mannered way and enjoy the driving.
One thing for you to look at since you mentioned slippage in the spur/diff is the type of grease used in its assembly. I know you did not build these cars and are just running them as-is for now. My guess is that the spur/diff was greased with regular grease, not grease specially made for ball diffs. Ball diff grease is more sticky and designed to give traction to the balls in the diff instead of slipping. Of course I could be wrong and the person that built the diff used ball diff grease, but no matter what I would recommend totally disassembling the top shaft and spur/diff and then use plastic-safe motor cleaning spray (Performance Plus 4 or CRC Electronic Cleaner spray cans work well) to remove all remnants of old grease and oil, then rebuild per the manual and use real ball diff grease on the balls that fit inside the spur. The brand doesn't matter as long as it says "ball diff grease". I've used Tamiya and Associated and they both work fine. Kyosho sells it too.
Of course, I'd recommend totally disassembling a car down to individual nuts, screws, bolts and parts and cleaning everything while inspecting all of the parts. I never trust how the car was built. I want to inspect every part, every screw and make sure it is in good condition. Trim excess flashing from plastic parts that the original builder ignored. Look for cracks and missing parts. Inspect the front and rear belts. DO NOT wash the belts or oil the belts. Leave them as-is, dry. Use a dry paper towel and run the belts through it between your fingers so the paper towel removes dirt and grime that might be on the top (flat) part of the belt. It's amazing how dirty belts can get. Inspect the bronze roller bushings inside the front and rear gearbox housings that the belts rely on to keep the teeth in the grooves of the front and rear diffs and top shaft front and rear drive cogs and one-way bearings. My last Lazer ZX was missing two of these roller bushings or maybe they were omitted on purpose. I had to buy a new LA-10 to replace the missing ones.
Also please note that the stock spur gear on the Lazer ZX is 0.6mod (sometimes called "metric 48p" by some pinion manufacturers), not 48p. Many racers replaced the stock spur with a 48p one (usually with some sort of modifications) due to better size selection and pinion choice. I don't bother and just use the stock spur with Kyosho vintage pinions.
Thanks for all the info! It sounds like a bit of an over-engineered drive system but I guess they had their reasons for designing it that way... I will be stripping them both down for a clean and rebuild but as they came complete I thought I might as well see what I have to work with. The only things I can see that is showing signs of needing sorting visually apart from the lack of bodyshells (2 on order along with stickers now) are the driveshafts and steering links which are all a bit rusty so the cars should come out really well.After looking at your blog I'm not looking forward to cutting the shells, I hate doing that at the best of times and these seem worse than most! I'm pretty sure I used PS16 on my Sand Scorcher shell, it's amazing how it can look so different on another car. Did you manage to find a manual to download? I've found one but it only lets you save and print one page at a time which is a bit annoying.
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12 hours ago, Champ85 said:Looks like a Lazer ZX to me too. I just rebuilt/restored one. Working on trimming the body now.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
My Fleet of Lazer ZXs:
I love the one on the left with the chrome wheels! What blue did you use on that? I've had a closer look at mine now and they are actually in better condition than I thought. Just very dirty but not scuffed or broken. I've had them both running, one has a lot of slip before it gets up to speed and the ther is instant. I've tightened up the nut on the slipper which was very loose but hasn't changed it. Any hints on what else it might be? I haven't taken them apart yet..
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1 hour ago, Ann3x said:Many parts are shared / compatible between optima mid/ zx so often hybrids are found. Thats said, long wishbones and 2 piece top deck..... probably a zx.
Thank you, it's good to hear a vote for the ZX. I'd hate to do it with the wrong bodyshell.
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I finally found a post about it. Seems like it has no brake or reverse as it's an aircraft esc really.
Here's what I found if anyone is interested:
You have 3 screws N / H / C
N= Neutral
H= High Speed
C= Curve like Expo on the radio.
Step 1: Set the neutral.
Step 2: With the little box put on the motor wire, and set the high speed , 90% in max forward the light is off.
Step 3: Set the curve like you want: turn the screw on left Slow Curve, Turn the screw on right High Curve.Not much use to me as so I'll be getting a replacement.
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Wow small world! They're a bit of a project but could will be nice. Just need to make sure I do them up as they should be.
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I picked up a pair of these yesterday. One has no bodyshell and one has one that looks like an Optima Mid SWB body and
it isn't a Mid. Looking at the chassis alone I'm pretty sure its a Lazer ZX but before I buy the wrong body and repro stickers can anyone confirm? Cheers!
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Does anyone know anything about this ESC? It works forwards but no reverse. I'm not sure how to set it up or what the 3 recessed dials are for. If anyone has a manual that would be awesome. Does this even have reverse as an option?
Thanks in advance.
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I do have a brushless combo in it at the moment and I'm not loving the idea of drivetrain death! Although I'm never going to race it I think maybe I'll research these clutch upgrades to save killing it. It's going great at the moment though!
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It was as you said, the spur gear was slipping. The rubbing had shred a bit of the surface of some of the layers behind it away but after a clean up, re-grease and tighten it seems to be good again. I'm not sure ill be able to find those parts anywhere! Do you know if there's an alternative to all those parts behind and in front of the spur gear? Thanks for your help.
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Hi, its a swb not sure about the diff type. I haven't opened it up yet. There aren't any smells but there is a squeaky noise as it pulls away. I'll take it apart and get back to you. Thanks for replying.
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My Optima Mid seems to build up speed slowly and struggle on grass although top speed is very quick. If I hold it still and accelerate gently the the motor and pinion are turning the gear but the belt is not moving. It feels like a slipping clutch on a car. Does anyone know what can cause this and how if at all it could be adjusted or if not what may have gone wrong?
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My next project arrived today after being adrift in Hermes land for a couple of weeks.
I can't wait to get started on cleaning it up and seeing what I've got to work with.
Many parts will be needed so if anyone has a prop shaft, wing mount, tyres, bodyshell or anything else that might help let me know!
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Are there any spray paints other than the Tamiya PS range that are any good for painting the inside of a clear shell?
I specifically need metallic brown but could maybe lay solid brown over a pearl coat? Does that work?
Either way I can't find polycarbonate brown spray anywhere - anyone got any ideas please?
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7 minutes ago, nowinaminute said:Just see how you get on with it like you say. With the 27T motor it won't really be fast enough to highlight the fact that it's not a high performance chassis and at least it will be able to handle a bit of light trailing too if you wanted to take it out for walk. It will certainly still be able to do donuts and make rooster tails in the dirt etc
I've got a spare Carson Cup Machine 23t somewhere which I'll probably donate to give it a bit more speed. I've told him that it's not going off the BMX kicker jump when he gets it and he's good with that. Maybe just a plank on a couple of bricks...
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16 hours ago, waterbok said:Forget the cc01 that is a totally different chassis, certainly not suitable for donuts and big tires. The WT01 would be your best bet and you could just get the landfreeder body and make a.fall guy truck out of it.
I actually did order a Landfreeder for him today. I found the bodyshell is going to be half the price I paid for the whole kit so we'll see how he goes. Either he'll get on with it or we can put the truck body on a WT-01 and I'll find a cheap body for the CC01 and I'll see what I can do with it.
We found some videos on youtube of one with a brushless set up that goes like stink and another doing donuts and jumping stuff. Mainly though they are locked diff crawlers but definitely not going that way. We even found a couple of Fall Guys truck versions. They do seem pretty versatile.
It'll be interesting as I've never built one like it so I'm sure we'll learn a lot together! There are enough hop ups out there to deprive him of pocket money for years to come!
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18 hours ago, J@mes said:Shapeways print F1 & F2 parts for King/ Super Blackfoot/ Bush Devil
Even F1 in steel... for £130
Good grief that's more than I paid for the whole truck! No wonder people are breaking cars for part on ebay. Sad thing is though if I don't see one come up soon I might have to bite the bullet! Thanks for looking this up!
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Actually I think PhantomRC has nailed it with the Landfreeder I'd never heard of them but it'll definitely make the best Fall Guy truck. It doesn't tick all the boxes but with raised suspension and bigger wheels it'll be almost perfect. I don't know much about the CC-01 chassis but there seems to be tons of spares and I can get a new one for about on budget.
I watched a few youtube videos with my son and he's sold on it completely but apparently we'll need a light kit etc too...
Thanks everyone for your help! I think we got there in the end and I learned a lot along the way!
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7 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:If you find yourself buying a WR-01 or WT-01 with a non-Blackfoot shell but would prefer a Blackfoot, I have an unused Blackfoot 3 shell and decal set that came with my WT-01 kit that I might be willing to swap with you depending on what you get. I prefer polycarbonate shells for runners, so it has just been sitting in its box unassembled. Someone might as well get some use out of it.
I've found a fairly cheap Wild Dagger but the poly body on it is horrible and wouldn't be something you'd want to swap but would you sell the Blackfoot 3 shell? If so how much would you want? It's definitely the one that would look best for our plans.
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31 minutes ago, Mark_C said:My point was pulling a gearbox from a WR-01 won't really make it go any faster.
I don't know much about other brands to be honest, especially these newcomers like ETX, Arma etc. I guess its worth a search to gather opinion.
I see, no in just meant converting it to a single motor to make it RWD and get the speed up and complicated electrics gone.
It means that the Twin Detonator and Wild Dagger etc could work. These seems to be more common than the Blackfoot 3 or Xtreme.
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4 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:The gearboxes and gearing are the same in the WT-01, WR-01 and WR-02.
You could replace the front gearbox with a blank from a WT-01 if you wanted.
OK that's what I was hoping - it just opens me up to a few more options. Cheers.
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5 minutes ago, Mark_C said:WT01 wheelbase is 281mm. Blackfoot is 240 so body won't fit, at least not well.
Not sure about taking a motor out of a WR-01, I mean it wouldn't help the gearing any so would presumably be too slow still ?
I know you said has to be Tamiya, but I think you might find other brands fit the reuqirement better - take a look here https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rc-electric-models/rc-car-categories/9900/990010&MSAttributeID[85]=234
I didn't realise the gearing was different, thought it was just 2 of the same gearbox as the WT-01 and it was slower because of the draw of 2 motors. So they're actually geared more like crawlers and would still be slow on 1 motor?
Yeah it sounds like the wheel arches wouldn't align well with the Blackfoot shell.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ecx-1-10-amp-crush-mt-2wd-rtr-orange/rc-car-products/443263 this looks cool! No idea if they're a good brand?
So does this https://www.modelsport.co.uk/kyosho-monster-tracker-2-0-1-10-ep-readyset-blue/rc-car-products/443108 and I've actually heard of Kyosho
I've always steered clear of ready built stuff, just doesn't have the same appeal as it feels more like a toy if you know what I mean? But I'll show them to him and see what he thinks...
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Anyone know if you pull the front motor and gears out of a WR-01 does it effectively become a WT-01 or are other mods required?
Also can a standard Blackfoot Re-re body fit a WT-01 chassis or is it too short to look good?
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3 minutes ago, Mark_C said:Monster beetle and blackfoot only have a slight revision to the gearbox to use dogbones vs hex drives. Some seem to have major issues with the gearbox, but mine is ok.
The other issues around fragiility/speed with the ORV still stand even if you don't have gearbox issues.
That's definitely out for him then! Thanks for clarifying.
Kyosho Ultima original vs ReRe Gears
in Kyosho
Posted
I've picked up a banged up original Ultima with the intention of getting it back on the road but it is missing a few bits. Most seem to be available on the rere. Tyres, radio plate, roll cage are the main things but it is missing some gears and the shafts they sit on. Does anyone know if the gears off the re-release wil fit the old version? They look very different but if they fit the old mounting plate positions it might work? I'm planning on keeping the original diff if possible?
Cheers