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About bozatron

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  • Birthday December 8

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    From the UK but living in the deserts of Dubai

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  1. Exactly the ones I was about to suggest, they are designed for painting models, and using acrylics. If it is for painting drivers etc I would go for any in the "layer" range. if it is for covering larger areas the "shade" brushes are good.
  2. It's pretty perfect, super simple to fit and does exactly what it is supposed to. If i had to complain about anything it would be the heavy shipping cost, but that doesn't take away from the design or use. I would recommend it.
  3. At last a set of elusive posts have turned up #rarerthanhensteeth
  4. This is only my second build and I really wanted to try and make a good job of the paint work. Which basically meant changing my mind on colours, digressing over style and avoiding starting for a few extra weeks but at last it's done. This was a red edition kit so I wanted to use some red, but didn't want to go box art. I painted a few spoon tests and ended up with a full base coat of Gun Metal and then masked up for a Metallic Red top half. For the graphics I went with the less is more approach but may add some more later. Apart from the cosmetics It's pretty stock, I just added the CVAs front and rear and the AMPRO transmission brace. Overall it was a fun build and I'm pretty happy with the results.
  5. It can be a bit unforgiving at times, but most of the time dry and dusty is a blast .... Vid_Sm.mov
  6. Braved the heat, it's been hitting 45*C and 55% humidity this week, and took the Blitzer for a bash ...
  7. Great job and great cause @TurnipJF are there any other parts you need? I'd be happy to chip in a bit if there is?
  8. Thanks for the info, I've ordered a set to try on my Blitzer Beetle
  9. Good point, I missed a note about the steering but TBH I didn't feel the effect of the steering loss too much. For me a bit of power to the rear wheels and some sharp handling can put the car where you want it easily enough. However, should have mentioned the steering all the same. It's also worth setting the end points correctly so you don't put too much strain on the steering sevro, when it hits the arms.
  10. sorry for the off topic question, what are those tyres? they look awesome
  11. IMHO the Blitzer Beetle is a great all round fun machine, simple build, good looks, really sturdy, solid gearbox, can take faster cans, generally its just a good fun basher. However, the biggest flaw has to be the steering and the famous "Blitzer bump steer". A few simple mods you can make the steering a lot better, I thought I'd put a post up showing what I have done to improve my Bug. The first fix is to swap the front uprights. Remove both and swap them over, fit the left one on the right and the right on the left, so that the steering ball connector is facing down rather than up. It is pretty well documented mod, so no need to show that one here, but honestly if you haven't done it you should, it's night and day different. The next mod I found reference to was to fit the DT-02 Turnbuckle set (53828). I found several mentions of this on other posts and it certainly wasn't my idea, but I couldn't find any posts showing this clearly, so thought i'd throw a few pictures together for anyone else wanting to try this. Fitting them is really easy, honestly, it is like the set is made for the Blitzer. The set comes with 4 short, 1 med and 1 long turnbuckle rods, 12 closed-cup ball connector ends and an assortment of hardware. TBH the set has most of the hardware you need, I only had to add 2 nos 3x25mm machine screws to fit the set. I would say the only tricky part is you have to run a 3mm drill bit through both front fixing points and the rear knuckle (the inner rear doesn't need it as the holes are bigger on that connection). All the holes that do need a drill run through are only just undersize, maybe 2.7mm, so its really just a ream though to clean the self tapping thread out and allow the machine screw to pass freely. The four smaller rods make up the 4 camber links and the med and longer one make up the steering rods. In each case just remove the original link, match the length with the new parts, fit the ball connectors with the machine screws (use thread lock) and snap everything in place. Fixing placement: 4 nos 3x15mm screws (included in the set) use for the 2 front camber links (use a small washer screw head of the two going through the knuckles) 2 nos 3x12mm screws (included in the set) use for the rear camber at the gearbox (use a small washer on the screw head side) 2 nos 3x25mm screws (not included in the set) use for the rear camber link at the knuckle A couple of things to add. It makes life simpler when adjusting the turnbuckles, to keep all of the rods the same way round (Ichanged mine after I took the pics and realised this). That way you are always turning forwards to extend and backwards to reduce the rod length. The easiest way to do this is to keep the small "knurled" section to the left side of centre on each rod. The only other thing, the rear turnbuckles do not offer much adjustment as they are pretty much screwed all the way into the rod ends, but they do allow standard camber. This could be fixed by trimming the rod but honestly I don't think it is needed as most of the adjustment is required at the front end and those rods allow plenty. I hope this is helpful for any other Blizter fans out there
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