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Gawdzis71

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Everything posted by Gawdzis71

  1. Not too sure on this so wanted throw it out there... trying to rehab a couple of vintage bodies. Looking to source some decent quality polycarbonate or equivalent plastic to reshape and repair. Any advice on what to look for in plastic sheeting to relatively match, or just buy a couple of beater shells and chop them up?
  2. Buy a 2.4ghz radio setup. Nearly all modern hobby grade gear is 2.4ghz. The TEU-101BK can only be used with BEC receiver. This is on the Tamiya.com website https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/electronics/rc-esc-teu-101bk-brushed/.
  3. Wondering if anyone can identify this vintage electronic speed control setup? I thought maybe was off a vintage Mounty or Bruiser, but looks like it might be some kind of old aftermarket setup? Definitely a racer setup I'm thinking, someone took a lot of time to wire this up.
  4. Thanks Willy. My tap tends to run hard, so the additional calcium is probably not great for the airbrush either - the distilled water is a great suggestion. I did pick up some airbrush cleaner so I guess I'm all set there. The cans just tend to lay down a lot of paint and run very "wet", so I'm hoping the airbrush gives a lighter layer that is more forgiving with tape lines. And I actually never noticed those padlatracks were reversed...
  5. Willy and Cyan, I really appreciate that tip, I always try to substitute and save money myself as well to avoid gimmicks I can just substitute or create at home. I did pick up this airbrush cleaner kit - from what I've seen on some vids I watched you basically run the paint thinner through the gun and spray into the pot to catch the mixture and it has this awl type tool for cleaning I guess the nozzle itself along with the steel brushes. Do you run thinner through the gun immediately after painting so nothing gets too hardened inside? Can you mix the thinner with water to save on volume, or would that damage the gun?
  6. The airbrush will be another acquired skill, but I'm eager to see the results. I picked up a basic kit and gents I really appreciate the tips on thinning and cleaning. I'm watching as many youtube vids as time permits as well. Some photos attached of what I bought here and posted on the Home Page, any feedback is greatly appreciated!
  7. Thanks all. I think the basic airbrush is the best way to go. Willy I wish I had the willpower to wait until my local winter to work on these. - 10F? Where do you live? Wow
  8. Getting frustrated with the heavy hand of rattle can spaying, so I've been looking into paint spray guns, especially for vintage buggy body painting and restoration. Does anyone have a suggestion on what setup they use currently? I like the Devilbiss or Sata, not looking for a real pro setup, just something to get a nicer more controlled flow than these spray cans. Also - has anyone tried a cordless or portable mini sprayer for a 1/10 scale body - can you get enough coverage without a standard shop compressor setup? Thx!
  9. The Hilux was June 1981, so if they drop that this year on the 40 year anniversary, definitely the BB will follow for 2022 or maybe even late 2021, just like the Mountaineer followed the Bruiser re-re. But hey, I'm just guessing - no one thought you'd ever be able to buy a Sand Scorcher or Rough Rider NIB again. BTW TamiyaUSA has "coming soon" on the Super Champ re-release - which was previously marked discontinued - so I wouldn't go jumping on the price gouged $600 and $800 re re kits on Ebay unless you really gotta have one now.
  10. I can tell you the old NimH 7.2 volt white Humpback batteries were shorter in length than the new flatpack ones - made that mistake already. Lipo are more compact as are the LiFe and fit the same retro re-release batt compartment dimensions. Don't feel too bad - the last RC car I built was a Super Champ in 1985 . When I bought my re-release Sand Scorcher last year I was looking for the receiver battery 4-pack and the black balloon bag to cover it!! lol.
  11. I would keep checking this link before buying any $2000 Tamiya vintage kits next few days, unless you really have to have the 30 year old version. There was mysteriously a run of vintage Sand Scorcher and Rough Rider kits suddenly available on Ebay before May 2009 and March 2010. You never know, they've released virtually everything else so far...I would hedge my bets. Tamiya will be releasing the 2021 schedule on January 24th at 11pm PST! https://www.tamiyausa.com/blog/tamiya-special-early-2021-new-product-presentation/
  12. Cool thread. Second the previous post on Tamiya. They were super detail -oriented and even now I love the un-matched realism of the vintage SRB and Truck models with the all-metal chassis - and not just because they were my first RC experience. I drove a Honda Civic as my frst car but I'm not giving up my modern Lexus for an 80s hatchback. I'm not a big fan of racing buggies now just to race them as I was 30 years ago so to me it's either you go for detail and realism which is vintage Tamiya and their On-Road lineup which is stellar, or you go for Associated and Kyosho for innovation, speed and quality racing with little attention to 1:1 references. Associated started with the RC 10 Sp-1 and that became the foundational standard or grandfather of modern racing buggies. Tamiya went the way of the Denisovans with anything post-frog in my opinion in either realism or competitive racing categories. They abandoned realistic 1:1 inspired off road designs and never caught up with their off-road competitors in my humble opinion.
  13. Yeah man... That looks like it would be what I'm after. Now just have to do a little measuring. Thanks very much for the head start on this.
  14. Found a ball diff from MIP for vintage Associated RC 10 (SP-1) - Does anyone know/have spares for the MIP ball diff drive shaft to retrofit this to an SRB gear case? You can see the difference in length in the photo comparison to Thorp ball diff gear. Thanks in advance!
  15. Thanks for your reply! It does indeed look like a spring, but if you check out my photo of the disassembled diff gear, it's actually those 4 separate little washers lined up. But your assessment would probably work even better if there was a spring to match that size.
  16. Wondering if anyone knows what the modern equivalent size/type (if any) would be for vintage Thorp Spring washers? Have had good luck finding bearing replacements, but the original Thorp instruction sheet (pictured) makes no mention of size etc for these. Anyone who's worked on them and has an idea, much appreciated in advance!
  17. Thanks, was just really excited about the find... As for the nylons, I don't really know. They must have been an aftermarket mod back in the day because the original aluminum A arms were so brittle and prone to cracking. Can't imagine they were for weight reduction? With that massive metal gear case still in play...but I guess any improvement shaved off some time around the track.
  18. Saw an Ebay auction with a heavily mod'd 80s era SRB chassis. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=136295&id=55379
  19. This was a literal barn find. I was running my Springer (a dog, not a car lol) last Fall with a friend on land upstate NY. As a trade off my wife wanted to do some raw antiquing on the way out, so we stopped at this random house that had a small garage sale going. She was looking around and I caught a glimpse of this old Thorp label (pictured) in a smal box under a folding table. That got my heart going... There was that NIP wrench and screw set, which I don't really know what model fits, a bunch of broken plastic, at the top, then an A arm from a vintage SRB, and finally I saw this thing sitting loose at the bottom like a literal nugget of gold. The old lady was in her 70s and her "kids" were now in their 40s (my age as well lol) living elsewhere with kids of their own. The parts were probably left as is from the late 80s. She managed to dig out a really beat looking Rough Rider shell and destroyed chassis - which I bought with the box of parts as a courtesy - for $100 all in, $50 more than she was even asking.
  20. Thanks very much gentlemen! So it was a powerful trifecta of a WD40 bath, followed by cleansing boiling water bath, and then chased with a localized heat gun and gentle prying. But it's almost ready for another 20 years of use. Just waiting for the 1/16 bearings to finish up their white vinegar bath.
  21. Here is an image of the diff pressure disc and LH half axel. The adjusting screw is loose, but can't get the two seperated and don't want to damage. I want to clean the 1/16 steel bearings and gunk in the mechanism here. Thanks for any advice!
  22. Found a Thorp Ball diff for vintage SRB.I'm in the process of taking it apart for a rebuild but can't get the Pressure disc seperated from the LH half axle (see pictured instrutions) - They're basically cold-welded together. If anyone has any ideas to do this without damaging either piece, feel free to reach out.
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