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NulnOilTycoon

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About NulnOilTycoon

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  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    RC, Warhammer, Kiteboarding, Video Games, Music, Cookies, Crisps, Tea.

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  1. Good condition ones are a good start, but if any one has any new ones I'd still love to hear from them.
  2. I'm looking for 4 of the Team CRP 1607 Tamiya Front Suspension Arms for the Frog, I believe this is 2 sets of the arms, with the bushings for reduced front end slop. I had bought some on ebay (so I know they won't be cheap), but either UK Customs or Hermes lost them! Surely one of you stockpilers can help me give my Blazing Frog the front end it deserves?
  3. A bit of a long shot but does anyone have the stickers for the Novafox front bumper?
  4. Noooo! Don't try and dye the standard Frog/Hornet Wheels, I did this and all it does it deform them in the heat. They do however take paint perfectly well...
  5. It's kinda annoying that HW call it a "Crawler" ESC as it somewhat confused me, I thought it might have had some weird speed limiting, thing... the last thing I'd want is a buggy that crawls around. It's good to know that this is not the case, although it still bothers me that it has "crawler" written on the side of the ESC, I might have to take the sticker off, or position it so you can't see it, (because I'm weird and that kind of thing bothers me).
  6. Yes @mud4fun I'm afraid so, same name on Twitter and Instagram. I needed a bit of a change of pace (literally) from GW over the last 6 months or so that I've gotten properly into RC and there seems to be a lot of skills in common with the hobby side of wargaming and RC.
  7. Thank you all so much for the detailed replies, I think it will be perfect then, it'll look super cool and and should work like a charm.
  8. Is there any reason why a Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 WP Crawler ESC would be bad in a buggy? I'm thinking of putting one in a Bigwig to run on 8.4V Nimh and so I can also make use of the adjustable BEC settings to run a HV servo. Are there any other brushed ESCs that could do the same thing? Also, would the Bigwig GT tuned motor be likely overheat running at 8.4V? Any help and/or experienced opinions would be most appreciated.
  9. The Blazing Frog is edging ever closer. I picked up some hot Super Astute wheels and tyres for when I want something a bit higher performance than the stock Frog wheels and tyres although it will have the stock ones on most of the time as I like that classic look. I might try and get hold of some of the Aluminium side rails that I'll paint orange to tie the front nylon parts to the rear parts and balance with the orange roll bar look on the roof. I'm not settled on the lights yet, I'm trying a few LED options and waiting for another set to arrive before I decide on which ones looks just right. The shocks are much smoother now that I've filled them up with oil and there is some bump steer to try and reduce by altering where the rods connect to the servo horn. Lastly the wing... this is the most tricky part, I bought a small second hand vacuum forming machine and I've made a mould of the stock wing but re-sculpted it to not have the post mount parts, to achieve as close to stock look as possible. The wing shown was one of my first attempts but the Lexan wasn't hot enough and I damaged my mould so I need to try again, to hopefully make something unique and has the look I'm going for.
  10. I've made some good progress on the Blazing Frog, although it's fairly slow going. I've nearly finished all the paintwork and the build is getting there, it's all wired up but I'm still waiting for a few more parts to arrive. The lights are getting swapped out for slightly smaller ones, and I'm hopefully making a custom wing which will be black. I didn't bother with the AMPRO battery door, I made the stock one open by cutting and drilling some bolts, it was fiddly but I think it's a more elegant solution. I used 32mm turnbuckles with Tamiya low friction balls and cups for the rear upper link arms. The orange nylon rear arms were dyed black and then painted black, sanded and sealed to get as close a finish to the front arms as possible. At the moment I've used a piece of rubber PC case edge trim on the rear window where it runs close to the wing mount; so that if/when I roll this thing, the lexan wont cut into the nylon. I could cut the body back further to prevent them from touching, this would look nicer but would weaken the body, I've not decided yet. Overall I'm fairly happy with how this is coming along. I might do a more thorough write up or maybe even video showcase/review when I get it all done as there's quite a lot of things I could talk about with this build.
  11. All the AMPRO bits have now arrived so I can get to work painting and installing them. You can see the difference between the "orange" Nylon from Shapeways and the intense Troll Slayer orange after painting. I've also nearly done the body, I just need to cut the rear section to fit the wing mount frame, before spraying white (or maybe black I can't decide).
  12. I use the Proline stuff through the airbrush but I will also do small corrections with a brush. The problem is it requires several thin coats to get an opaque layer by brush, and painting neat straight lines for the roll cage with multiple coats like this is more time consuming than masking the area off. I did my first Frog body roll bars with a rattle can and it was so tight to get the spray in I wasted most of a tin trying to get good coverage. It's way more economical using the airbrush, which is easier to get in to the confined space. It might be worth trying masking it off the area then using a tiny piece of sponge held with some tweezers to gently dab on multiple thin layers of paint. You could use either Proline, or the rattle can stuff for this (spray some into the lid).
  13. I've realised I kneed the knuckle screws as well now, so it's pretty much all of bag D that I need.
  14. I love it! This is exactly how I'd build a HS if I did one, great work, thanks for sharing!
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