Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

31 Excellent

About NulnOilTycoon

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    RC, Warhammer, Kiteboarding, Video Games, Music, Cookies, Crisps, Tea.

Recent Profile Visitors

85 profile views
  1. I've made some good progress on the Blazing Frog, although it's fairly slow going. I've nearly finished all the paintwork and the build is getting there, it's all wired up but I'm still waiting for a few more parts to arrive. The lights are getting swapped out for slightly smaller ones, and I'm hopefully making a custom wing which will be black. I didn't bother with the AMPRO battery door, I made the stock one open by cutting and drilling some bolts, it was fiddly but I think it's a more elegant solution. I used 32mm turnbuckles with Tamiya low friction balls and cups for the rear upper link arms. The orange nylon rear arms were dyed black and then painted black, sanded and sealed to get as close a finish to the front arms as possible. At the moment I've used a piece of rubber PC case edge trim on the rear window where it runs close to the wing mount; so that if/when I roll this thing, the lexan wont cut into the nylon. I could cut the body back further to prevent them from touching, this would look nicer but would weaken the body, I've not decided yet. Overall I'm fairly happy with how this is coming along. I might do a more thorough write up or maybe even video showcase/review when I get it all done as there's quite a lot of things I could talk about with this build.
  2. All the AMPRO bits have now arrived so I can get to work painting and installing them. You can see the difference between the "orange" Nylon from Shapeways and the intense Troll Slayer orange after painting. I've also nearly done the body, I just need to cut the rear section to fit the wing mount frame, before spraying white (or maybe black I can't decide).
  3. I use the Proline stuff through the airbrush but I will also do small corrections with a brush. The problem is it requires several thin coats to get an opaque layer by brush, and painting neat straight lines for the roll cage with multiple coats like this is more time consuming than masking the area off. I did my first Frog body roll bars with a rattle can and it was so tight to get the spray in I wasted most of a tin trying to get good coverage. It's way more economical using the airbrush, which is easier to get in to the confined space. It might be worth trying masking it off the area then using a tiny piece of sponge held with some tweezers to gently dab on multiple thin layers of paint. You could use either Proline, or the rattle can stuff for this (spray some into the lid).
  4. I've realised I kneed the knuckle screws as well now, so it's pretty much all of bag D that I need.
  5. I love it! This is exactly how I'd build a HS if I did one, great work, thanks for sharing!
  6. This is really interesting to me, you've probably seen it already but Factory Works made one similar to their Hotshot one about a year ago but it has been discontinued. It might give you some ideas for your chassis design. I contacted Factory Works a few weeks ago asking if they would make any more as I'm really keen to do this kind of upgrade to my NovaFox. They said that it was a tricky kit for their customers to fit and so it had been discontinued. I do wonder though if there were a few of us that wanted to buy it then they could maybe be convinced to re-release them. Here is one of the pictures of the prototype from the Factory Works Facebook page: It's such a shame they didn't seem to sell it for very long, I just hope with the rumoured re-re-release of the NovaFox coming soon they'll bring it back out.
  7. Thanks for the nice comment @Carmine A I do have a lot of experience building various things with plastic, metal, wood, carbon and I studied physics at Uni and have painted lots of small things. I think all of this helps, but none of it stops me making plenty of NOOB errors! I just maybe choose to omit some/all of them from my hobby updates. RC parts seem to be the perfect application for 3D printing, the options available to customise your builds are fantastic. So far I really do like the AMPRO parts and especially the videos, (they're interesting, informative and Alberto has such a soothing voice). I'm really looking forward to getting the rear double wishbone setup for the Frog and testing it out!
  8. The Blazing Frog is now taking shape, I decided to go all in and up the component specs to match the Alpha Frog, (so it will basically be the evil sibling), the idea being I could run them both with identical motors back to back and race them to compare the performance of the standard vs AMPRO suspension. I might put a Super Stock RZ motor in the Blazing Frog as I feel it should be "hot", although I do love the look of the black UGT motor so I could get another one of those, so it matches the Alpha Frog. Regarding the colour scheme; getting the colour/texture of 3d printed parts to match the red/black factory plastics isn't going to happen, so I decided to go for a hot analogous colour scheme of red and orange to contrast against the neutral black and white components. I wasn't happy with the orange dyed parts from Shapeways, they weren't bad, just not as vivid as I'd hoped, and as soon as you do any sanding to smooth they start to fade. To get the look I was after I painted the parts with GW Troll Slayer Orange, the acrylic paint seems to bond nicely with the porous SLS Nylon. I did some wet+dry sanding to between a couple of coats of paint and added a couple of coats of satin spray lacquer to seal and protect the finished parts. Things I've noticed: The shock absorbers are 1/16 scale dampers from ebay and they are ok but seem to stick when they've been fully extended for a while, is this normal? Will they loosen up with use, or should I open them up and have a better look at them? The AMPRO uprights require M2.5 hardware to fit the shocks, I used 20mm stainless bolts that threaded nicely into the mounting posts. The inside "notch" on the uprights do require a bit of shaving down to fit, but you get a nice snug fit in doing so. The Technical Difficulties RC speed control centre plate is similarly annoying but this time the holes and more crucially the struts on the underside of the plate are a bit too small to nicely accept M3 screws. I tapped and fitted M3s to the black plate on the Alpha Frog but the struts visibly deform as you screw in to them, where the Nylon is too thin. So for the orange plate, I've used M2.5 cap head socket screws rather than the M3 dome head screws I've used everywhere else, this helps but isn't ideal. So overall, the progress on the Blazing Frog is fairly slow. I've built the gearbox (with MIP diff), loosely assembled the chassis, painted and loosely assembled the front end and have otherwise purchased and gathered a lot of the parts together, (although I still need the chunky stepped screws for the front linkage). Now that I've settled on a colour (and how I'm finishing the pieces) I've ordered the AMPRO back end and some of the other bits I need to continue the build. This thing is costing me a small fortune, but hopefully it will be super cool.
  9. Great question, I tried dyeing my Frog wheels... it was an epic fail, the heat distorted them all out of shape, I ending up burning them. I'd love to know if Hotshot/Wild One wheels can be dyed, before I try it again.
  10. Thanks for the PM, if anyone else has them from a RERE kit I'd rather take those rather than vintage ones.
  11. Yes those are the ones, BD1 in the Frog instruction manual, 3x20mm, but stepped so slightly wider than 3mm.
  12. Does anyone have screw bag D from the Frog/Brat going spare? (The one with the 6 stepped screws from the front linkage, and the 4 screws for the front knuckles). I'll pay £10 for them delivered, otherwise I guess I'll just have to wait until spares come back in to stock. Thanks. NOW FOUND THIS THREAD CAN BE DELETED>
  13. So I take the Frog out for it's first full throttle blast around (exhilarating) and 30 seconds later after doing a wheelie I crack the body, thanks to my stupid home made rear light box catching the ground and rolling upwards. I knew the body would get scratched and maybe break but pretty gutted it happened so quickly. The light box is going to need some significant remodelling before I try it again. The other issue is the brake light goes off when you actually use the brakes, it's only on when the throttle is released. Otherwise, the Frog goes really well with the UGT motor in it, and I must have built the MIP ball diff. correctly, although I wasn't sure how many O-rings to use in the axle cups, (I used 2 in the left 1 in the right). The offset motor mount for the Monster Beetle is a bit of a pain in the Frog as it moves the motor closer to the back. I'd rather the body didn't rub on the motor.
  14. Thanks for the nice comments guys... update time: Some parts have arrived for the Blazing Frog but I've had to have a sort out and put everything for that build in to a separate box and to one side, as it was getting a bit hectic with 2 buggy builds on the go at the same time. The Alpha Frog is pretty much finished for now... The Futaba 3PV transmitter and R314SB-E enclosed antenna receiver arrived and with the Rx being small and neat it fits nicely along side the Quicrun 1060 (which is also fairly small), leaving plenty of space under the driver figure for the motor and battery cables. Here's some pictures of the gubbins before and after connecting the lights and putting the top plate on. I've made most of the cables shorter and added black heatshrink to give a neat finish although I decided to use self amalgamating tape for the cable to the power switch (which isn't quite as neat) because I didn't really want to open the brand new ESC, de-solder the wires etc, it might be glued shut and not quite as straight forward as it seems. If anyone has opened the Quicrun 1060 I'd be interested to hear/see what it's like inside. The brake light cable runs neatly between the Rx and the ESC to the connector block that sits next to the servo. The front lights connect to the switch controller on the top plate. This switch controller could run another set of lights if I wanted to do a set of 4 on the front bumper or something. However it also has annoying flashing modes (I ordered the wrong one off ebay) that are a bit crazy for headlights, so I've ordered a different (hopefully simpler) on/off switch controller that I'll swap it for when it arrives. I made and fitted a brake light mount box (which needs a slight adjustment) and fitted the UGT tuned motor I ordered a while ago. I love the way the back end looks now, matching with all the other black and red internals: The front lights aren't as bright as I'd hoped, I aluminium tape lined the inside of the housing to boost the reflected light, but the white covers with Hella decals do stop a lot of the light. The faux antennas are cut down and partially replaced with plastic tube so if (when) it rolls over they'll just bend. The only things left to do for now on the Alpha Frog are; swap out the differential for the MIP upgraded one + gears, add the AMPRO rear arm strengtheners, and then take it for a good thrash around outside.
  15. I have two Planet 2+2 Transmitter + Receivers for sale with box and instruction leaflet, they're virtually new, we half built our cars, gave them a test run and decided we preferred wheel controllers. One of the receivers has been very lightly scuffed where the double sided tape was attached to get good adhesion. They're otherwise identical so I've only taken a picture of one of them. They take 4 AA batteries, (which aren't included). £40 delivered, each.
  • Create New...