Jump to content

NulnOilTycoon

Members
  • Content Count

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by NulnOilTycoon

  1. @Ferruz I totally agree with your original post. If a buggy has no driver figure or the driver can't see past the front shock mount/tower then the buggy is of no interest to me. My most recent driver figure...
  2. Brushed motors are cool, especially in vintage buggies, it's just a shame there's mainly just the red Hobbywing 1060 to run them with now. If Hobbywing made the 1060 in a range of colours that would be great for styling our builds. Some brushless motors look cool, the Kyosho Le Mans and the plain dark green Castle ones come to mind, but a lot of them are very modern and "hi tech" looking, also the ESCs are generally huge and have an obnoxious fan fastened to them, which just wont fit properly in a buggy with a driver figure in it. (I don't understand how people can run buggies without drivers.)
  3. Have you tried running it? Did it fix the noisy gears? ... The S bend Terra Scorcher prop shaft mod.
  4. I don't think so, they were just in the Bigwig kit, I presume people don't usually fit them.
  5. I just finished my Bigwig this evening... It's running; 8.4V Nimh, stock GT tuned motor, Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 ESC, Power HD B5 servo, Futaba receiver + battery voltage sensor, MIP ball differentials, Hotshot prop shaft, stainless steel screws, Ti turnbuckles, MCI decals... I'm not sure if I'm going to stick with the yellow CVA dampers, I've got some CRP adjustable collars coming for them, hopefully that sorts out the softness, otherwise I might try and find some suitable alloy shocks.
  6. My Avante and Bigwig are getting Power HD servo's; S15 and B5 respectively. These aren't cheap servos though by any stretch of the imagination, from reading around I gather that for 4WD 1:10 scale off road buggies, anything with over 10kg of torque and under 0.1s/60deg speed @6V, is really good. I'd err on the side of more torque for the Bigwig because it's beefy and has the rack+pinion and rubber booties. Also: A low profile servo looks nice in the sleek chassis of the Avante, but the Bigwig needs a standard sized servo. Low profile servos don't fit the Bigwig because the spindle is slightly offset from the standard position and shifts the whole servo into contact with the chassis. Same with the Novafox. (I bought 2 low profile servos only to find they didn't fit.)
  7. Does anyone know how long these are eye to eye? If only Tamiya would list their shock dimensions it would make planning upgrades much easier.
  8. Good condition ones are a good start, but if any one has any new ones I'd still love to hear from them.
  9. I'm looking for 4 of the Team CRP 1607 Tamiya Front Suspension Arms for the Frog, I believe this is 2 sets of the arms, with the bushings for reduced front end slop. I had bought some on ebay (so I know they won't be cheap), but either UK Customs or Hermes lost them! Surely one of you stockpilers can help me give my Blazing Frog the front end it deserves? Edit: I now have these so this thread can be deleted.
  10. A bit of a long shot but does anyone have the stickers for the Novafox front bumper?
  11. Noooo! Don't try and dye the standard Frog/Hornet Wheels, I did this and all it does it deform them in the heat. They do however take paint perfectly well...
  12. It's kinda annoying that HW call it a "Crawler" ESC as it somewhat confused me, I thought it might have had some weird speed limiting, thing... the last thing I'd want is a buggy that crawls around. It's good to know that this is not the case, although it still bothers me that it has "crawler" written on the side of the ESC, I might have to take the sticker off, or position it so you can't see it, (because I'm weird and that kind of thing bothers me).
  13. Yes @mud4fun I'm afraid so, same name on Twitter and Instagram. I needed a bit of a change of pace (literally) from GW over the last 6 months or so that I've gotten properly into RC and there seems to be a lot of skills in common with the hobby side of wargaming and RC.
  14. Thank you all so much for the detailed replies, I think it will be perfect then, it'll look super cool and and should work like a charm.
  15. Is there any reason why a Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 WP Crawler ESC would be bad in a buggy? I'm thinking of putting one in a Bigwig to run on 8.4V Nimh and so I can also make use of the adjustable BEC settings to run a HV servo. Are there any other brushed ESCs that could do the same thing? Also, would the Bigwig GT tuned motor be likely overheat running at 8.4V? Any help and/or experienced opinions would be most appreciated.
  16. The Blazing Frog is edging ever closer. I picked up some hot Super Astute wheels and tyres for when I want something a bit higher performance than the stock Frog wheels and tyres although it will have the stock ones on most of the time as I like that classic look. I might try and get hold of some of the Aluminium side rails that I'll paint orange to tie the front nylon parts to the rear parts and balance with the orange roll bar look on the roof. I'm not settled on the lights yet, I'm trying a few LED options and waiting for another set to arrive before I decide on which ones looks just right. The shocks are much smoother now that I've filled them up with oil and there is some bump steer to try and reduce by altering where the rods connect to the servo horn. Lastly the wing... this is the most tricky part, I bought a small second hand vacuum forming machine and I've made a mould of the stock wing but re-sculpted it to not have the post mount parts, to achieve as close to stock look as possible. The wing shown was one of my first attempts but the Lexan wasn't hot enough and I damaged my mould so I need to try again, to hopefully make something unique and has the look I'm going for.
  17. I've made some good progress on the Blazing Frog, although it's fairly slow going. I've nearly finished all the paintwork and the build is getting there, it's all wired up but I'm still waiting for a few more parts to arrive. The lights are getting swapped out for slightly smaller ones, and I'm hopefully making a custom wing which will be black. I didn't bother with the AMPRO battery door, I made the stock one open by cutting and drilling some bolts, it was fiddly but I think it's a more elegant solution. I used 32mm turnbuckles with Tamiya low friction balls and cups for the rear upper link arms. The orange nylon rear arms were dyed black and then painted black, sanded and sealed to get as close a finish to the front arms as possible. At the moment I've used a piece of rubber PC case edge trim on the rear window where it runs close to the wing mount; so that if/when I roll this thing, the lexan wont cut into the nylon. I could cut the body back further to prevent them from touching, this would look nicer but would weaken the body, I've not decided yet. Overall I'm fairly happy with how this is coming along. I might do a more thorough write up or maybe even video showcase/review when I get it all done as there's quite a lot of things I could talk about with this build.
  18. All the AMPRO bits have now arrived so I can get to work painting and installing them. You can see the difference between the "orange" Nylon from Shapeways and the intense Troll Slayer orange after painting. I've also nearly done the body, I just need to cut the rear section to fit the wing mount frame, before spraying white (or maybe black I can't decide).
  19. I use the Proline stuff through the airbrush but I will also do small corrections with a brush. The problem is it requires several thin coats to get an opaque layer by brush, and painting neat straight lines for the roll cage with multiple coats like this is more time consuming than masking the area off. I did my first Frog body roll bars with a rattle can and it was so tight to get the spray in I wasted most of a tin trying to get good coverage. It's way more economical using the airbrush, which is easier to get in to the confined space. It might be worth trying masking it off the area then using a tiny piece of sponge held with some tweezers to gently dab on multiple thin layers of paint. You could use either Proline, or the rattle can stuff for this (spray some into the lid).
  20. I've realised I kneed the knuckle screws as well now, so it's pretty much all of bag D that I need.
  21. I love it! This is exactly how I'd build a HS if I did one, great work, thanks for sharing!
  22. This is really interesting to me, you've probably seen it already but Factory Works made one similar to their Hotshot one about a year ago but it has been discontinued. It might give you some ideas for your chassis design. I contacted Factory Works a few weeks ago asking if they would make any more as I'm really keen to do this kind of upgrade to my NovaFox. They said that it was a tricky kit for their customers to fit and so it had been discontinued. I do wonder though if there were a few of us that wanted to buy it then they could maybe be convinced to re-release them. Here is one of the pictures of the prototype from the Factory Works Facebook page: It's such a shame they didn't seem to sell it for very long, I just hope with the rumoured re-re-release of the NovaFox coming soon they'll bring it back out.
  23. Thanks for the nice comment @Carmine A I do have a lot of experience building various things with plastic, metal, wood, carbon and I studied physics at Uni and have painted lots of small things. I think all of this helps, but none of it stops me making plenty of NOOB errors! I just maybe choose to omit some/all of them from my hobby updates. RC parts seem to be the perfect application for 3D printing, the options available to customise your builds are fantastic. So far I really do like the AMPRO parts and especially the videos, (they're interesting, informative and Alberto has such a soothing voice). I'm really looking forward to getting the rear double wishbone setup for the Frog and testing it out!
  24. The Blazing Frog is now taking shape, I decided to go all in and up the component specs to match the Alpha Frog, (so it will basically be the evil sibling), the idea being I could run them both with identical motors back to back and race them to compare the performance of the standard vs AMPRO suspension. I might put a Super Stock RZ motor in the Blazing Frog as I feel it should be "hot", although I do love the look of the black UGT motor so I could get another one of those, so it matches the Alpha Frog. Regarding the colour scheme; getting the colour/texture of 3d printed parts to match the red/black factory plastics isn't going to happen, so I decided to go for a hot analogous colour scheme of red and orange to contrast against the neutral black and white components. I wasn't happy with the orange dyed parts from Shapeways, they weren't bad, just not as vivid as I'd hoped, and as soon as you do any sanding to smooth they start to fade. To get the look I was after I painted the parts with GW Troll Slayer Orange, the acrylic paint seems to bond nicely with the porous SLS Nylon. I did some wet+dry sanding to between a couple of coats of paint and added a couple of coats of satin spray lacquer to seal and protect the finished parts. Things I've noticed: The shock absorbers are 1/16 scale dampers from ebay and they are ok but seem to stick when they've been fully extended for a while, is this normal? Will they loosen up with use, or should I open them up and have a better look at them? The AMPRO uprights require M2.5 hardware to fit the shocks, I used 20mm stainless bolts that threaded nicely into the mounting posts. The inside "notch" on the uprights do require a bit of shaving down to fit, but you get a nice snug fit in doing so. The Technical Difficulties RC speed control centre plate is similarly annoying but this time the holes and more crucially the struts on the underside of the plate are a bit too small to nicely accept M3 screws. I tapped and fitted M3s to the black plate on the Alpha Frog but the struts visibly deform as you screw in to them, where the Nylon is too thin. So for the orange plate, I've used M2.5 cap head socket screws rather than the M3 dome head screws I've used everywhere else, this helps but isn't ideal. So overall, the progress on the Blazing Frog is fairly slow. I've built the gearbox (with MIP diff), loosely assembled the chassis, painted and loosely assembled the front end and have otherwise purchased and gathered a lot of the parts together, (although I still need the chunky stepped screws for the front linkage). Now that I've settled on a colour (and how I'm finishing the pieces) I've ordered the AMPRO back end and some of the other bits I need to continue the build. This thing is costing me a small fortune, but hopefully it will be super cool.
×
×
  • Create New...