NulnOilTycoon

Basically I've spent way too much on the hobby and I'm trying to convince the Mrs to let me buy a new mountain bike, so I'm considering selling my re-re Bigwig, to help the cause. It's in fantastic condition I've only run it twice up and down my tarmac drive, (half discharged the battery once). otherwise just been sat on a shelf. It's fully loaded as follows: MIP ball diffs Stainless Steel Screws Titanium steerer rods + Tamiya low friction balls + cups MCI decals Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 Crawler ESC 8.4V Overlander battery Power HD B5 High Voltage Servo Nicely painted driver Spare body + yellow plastic parts XT60 Connectors Hotshot Aluminium propshaft Standard Bigwig GT tuned motor, with spade terminal paddle connectors for neatness. Acrylic painted tyre writing Complete with all boxes and instructions all in very good condition Spare set of wheels and tyres (so you can run it without ruining the tyre writing) Vintage CRP shock collars It currently has Futaba receiver (R314SB-E) and voltage sensor, so it's like a techno Bigwig that tells you your battery voltages, I'd prefer to leave these and all the other electrics in if possible but may be willing to remove them. I must have spent over £750 on it. This thing is no longer in production and should drive really well for a Bigwig with the strong superfast servo (BEC set to 7.4V on the ESC so it has 20kg torque and 0.66s response) and the ball diffs giving it great turning ability and the weighty 8.4V power lets you really get it power sliding sideways through the corners and being nicely finished it would also make a very nice shelf queen. I'm not desperate to sell, just if someone really likes it and makes me an offer I can't refuse, I'd let it go. If you're interested please feel free to drop me a private message, not interested in letting this go on the cheap. Thanks for looking. Was going to tidy the wiring up a little bit more but haven't got around to it yet.

I didn't, I just put the receiver right next to the servo.

In the kit. I spent a while painting him with a metallic red helmet and shading on the overalls. I also added a piece of plastic for the visor.

I more or less finished a Tomahawk, it's got almost every upgrade on it (the ones it doesn't have I'm just waiting to come back into stock (HG Shocks)), and I still have the tyres to paint. It's running Le Mans 240S ESC and 19.5T motor, Power HD R12 Servo and a Futaba antenna less receiver R314SB-E. (Not a Tamiya, sorry.)

Looks good to me, I like that the drivers overalls matches the wing.

I think that probably depends on the paintjob, you would likely pay more for a stunning custom paint scheme. I think box art is probably more fitting when it's a real scale car that you're replicating, but for made up buggies with made up colour schemes then anything goes really. @Ferruz That Hornet in particular, is wicked!

I understand some people like the look of box art buggies for various reasons and the colour schemes generally look good as they've had some thought put in to them. However, when someone posts their completed buggy, if I've seen one before and it's box art, I might look at it for up to 3 seconds, if it's not box art then I'll look at it for up to 3 minutes and if it's really cool I'll save the images on my PC for inspiration.

I widened mine there and it sort of clicks under a groove in the blue shock tower, the body does seem to fit very tight on the front body pin.

I'd try Biostrip 20.

Nice! The lights are a very cool addition.

I'm using the re-re Hotshot silver alloy shaft and steel drive cups on my Bigwig, it looks nice and works well. I tried the slightly longer TT-02 blue alloy one as well (with the Hotshot drive cups), but the light anodised blue somewhat clashes with the yellow and dark blue plastics (in my opinion) so I stuck with the Hotshot one. The other thing is if your running an 8.4V Nimh battery (which you should in a Bigwig) the stiffer chunkier alloy prop shafts make it a bit tight getting the battery in and out, especially with the TT-02 one.

I mixed it up using the Proline airbrush colours, I think it was 1 drop of orange to 50 drops of yellow. The glossy lexan makes the yellows look slightly different, but I think they're very close. Yellow paint is generally quite tricky as well because you need a lot of thin coats to get good even colour coverage. Tamiya probably do a rattle can yellow that is similar. I hope it turns out well, you'll have to show us when you get it done.

Go for it, the more yellow Bigwigs the better! I agree the yellow moon craft might not stand out very well on the white wing like I have done, it might look better agaisnt blue, black or maybe even orange or red to match the stripes on the side stickers. Although having said that the white wing does go well with the white wheels.

Well I think the Bigwig looks great in yellow, then again I may be slightly biased. This is mine. (Thanks for the shout out @DaveBuildsRC).

I replaced the oil in them (they weren't full) and they seemed a bit better, I think I was hoping they'd wear in. If they don't I'll definitely try having another look at them to see if that's the issue.

Thanks, that reminds me I've found a good wing for the Blazing Frog (from J C Racing Products), since I last showed it off. The wing needed cutting down a bit too look more like the original, but I think it works quite well. I still have a few more alterations to make, lights CRP arms, etc. but it's getting there.

Interesting, I'll have to check them out.

I guess another question would be why on Earth can't you get m3 stainless steel, titanium, etc. tapping screws with hex fittings? Surely someone makes them?

I hate the + head hardware (yes I've got the right JIS bit), but always prefer to replace with Hex head where possible. I don't really like the self tapping screws, I feel they are probably just used because they give secure and reliable results when hastily screwed into plastic. I find that if the m3 screws thread themselves ok (ie. not too tight), then I just work them back and forth a few times to cut the thread and relieve stress in the material. If they seem really tight to thread, then I'll tap the hole with a tapered tap so the screws can kinda finish cutting the thread giving a nice snug fit, the thing to avoid is using the full sized tap for tapping a threaded hole (with a bottom), in metal this is fine as it has no real flex, where as in plastic the tapered tap gives a smaller than m3 hole, allowing the hole/threads to flex and shape slightly as the screw goes in, to give a nice fit. If you use the full sized tap in plastic the hole/threads will still flex but end up giving you a slightly loose fitting screw, (which is bad). I've got an 2011 Avante to do soon and it's such a shame it comes with the JIS screws (same applies to the Egress I presume), has anyone installed the Titanium screw kit into an Avante, and/or knows whether they include replacement self tappers or just machine screws for all the hardware? I'm a bit more apprehensive about swapping the self tappers on the Avante, because parts are obviously more expensive/rare compared to Frogs, Hoppers and the Hotshot family, if there ever were a problem with the machine screw hardware. I've done a rere Kyosho Optima and there were a few self tappers on that kit, but as they had nice hex fitting heads I didn't feel as much of a need to replace them as I will with the Avante + fitting ones. Having said all that I am by no means an expert and would love to hear what the highly experienced RC builders do.

I've not quite finished my Novafox but it's very close, so much so that I've had it out for a good spin about and started scratching it, etc. So I thought I better takes some pics of it before all the tyre writing comes off. It's got the following bits; UGT Tuned Motor, Tamiya TEU-302BK ESC, (with black motor cables, spade terminal connectors, XT60 battery connector), Savox SC-1257TG (Black Edition), Tamiya 17T Steel Pinion, Carbon Fibre rear upright, Parma front bumper, CRP front brace, Aluminium and Titanium Screws throughout, Lunsford Ti screws for the shock mounting and Lunsford steering turnbuckles, Tamiya Low Friction Balls + Connectors, heatshrink tightened servo saver, white "Wild One" wheels, Stainless Steel body clips, Tamiya gold wheel nuts and ball bearings. I'd still like to add some Titanium hinge pins, Aluminium rear wheel adaptors and front LED headlights, but otherwise it's done. It's fairly lightweight, responsive and being high geared, rather quick!

Wow, I love that colour scheme @Ferruz totally eye popping colours!

Thanks guys!

Me and the other half finished her Grasshopper, (I only did the stickers). It's VW Indigo Blue Metallic, with green MCI decals.

Thank you very much! Doing it yellow seemed like the obvious solution to the "problem" of so much of the plastic on it being yellow.

Thanks!