Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About RCRLMichael

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Detroit, Michigan

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi All, Just curious if any of you here have ditched the 4 "AA" 6V battery holders used to power the servos and receiver on Nitro cars in favor of running a small, comparably sized LiPo pack? If so, what brand/spec/size/etc... do you use? I'm partial to Venom Power batteries, but not married to them if there are better/less expensive options that are a direct fit. And do you also use a LiPo alarm to avoid dropping below 3.5V or is that not much of an issue given the small power draw? Michael
  2. And I'm completely fine with this potential problem...LOL!!
  3. That's very good to know. I honestly know very little about the M-chassis cars from Tamiya, other than they're very popular as a race category. This particular one was a great deal - $50 shipped, so honestly I can't complain one way or the other. I don't know if the vehicle has bearings, or any other hidden treats the previous owner may have included (it does have red anodized wheel nuts, so that's nice), but the price it can't be beat.
  4. Hello all, Well, the postal delivery folks brought me another eBay purchase today. I picked up what was advertised as a Tamiya M-05 chassis. It's a brand new roller chassis that's never been run, but completely assembled save for a steering servo, ESC, receiver, and tires. Not sure what I plan to do with this vehicle yet, but it was cheap so I snapped it up. However, after doing a bit of searching online (as you do) I've discovered that the wheels on the model itself look to be from the Tamiya 2006 Mini Cooper S (kit #58400), which used an M-03L chassis. Now, it's very likely the seller may have simply installed a spare set of wheels they had left from a different build, but it's now raised the question: how can I identify whether the chassis I've purchased is an M-03L or an M-05? Thanks in advance. Cheers! Michael
  5. Hi all, I'm just curious - is there a Tamiya nitro engines identification guide out there that someone knows about? There seems to have been so many different variants that all looks extremely similar to the untrained eye - FS12SS, FS12LT, FS12FT, etc... that it would be nice to have a definitive guide to help identify an engine at first glance.
  6. Tons of great information here - thank you so much for all this! It's all going to prove very useful. I'm still in the process of figuring out exactly what I have with respect to this car (with all my other R/C projects, I get to this one when I can). But I agree with your sentiment - I believe someone probably ran this car once for a minute or two, left it on a shelf (it looks like a shelf queen...not a scratch on it anywhere) with fuel in it. The nitro fuel evaporated leaving a green goo behind; no after-run oil or anything of the sort. Someone then tried to start it much later only to find the engine didn't turn over and ended up breaking the pull-start rope, which is how it sits today. I've ordered a replacement pull-start assembly to replace the broken one. I've also found a small part is missing, along with a couple of fasteners that I don't think were ever installed. Nothing critical, but I've ordered replacements nonetheless. I've also printed a copy of the assembly manual as well (which is proving incredibly invaluable). My next step is to remove the tank and clean out all the green goo in it that's been left behind. Not a big issue and I'm sure it'll go relatively smoothly. The bigger issue, however, is the engine won't turn over. At least not by hand. I'm reluctant to remove the engine from the car - as I said, I've got a couple of other projects on the go right now, and I don't really want to dive head-long into this one just yet - but trying to turn the engine over at the flywheel is proving nye on impossible as it sits; I should mention, the throttle is also stuck and refuses to move as well. I'm going to guess that green goo has done a real number on what looks like a brand new engine and has gummed things up rather solid. I've removed the glow plug and air filter, and peering down either I can't see any sort of dirt or corrosion. I have been spraying tiny amounts of PB Blaster penetrating oil over the last couple of days down both the carb and the cylinder in the hopes of loosening things up, but still no luck. I'll continue to do this for a little while longer and see how that goes before pulling the engine out of the vehicle. It's also been suggested that nitro fuel itself can also be used as an effective cleaning agent which I will definitely try once I get my hands on some. I won't lie though, despite this minor setback, I am genuinely chuffed to bits just looking at this car.
  7. Good call on not using pure alcohol to help clean out the engine. I didn't think of the alcohol washing away much needed lubrication to prevent oxidation. Also very good to know that I need to get the nitro methane out of the engine once it's done running. I didn't realize that was the case. I can tell you, its extremely difficult to turn the engine over as it is right now, so I have a feeling it's either extremely gummed up inside OR there's a lot of corrosion in it. Any value in pulling the glow plug out and spraying some PB Blaster into the cylinder and letting it sit a few days? Do you think that'll do anything or be more harmful than good? The whole nitro percentage thing is a big mystery to me, so I'm going to be at the mercy of what's suggested by those of you who have come before me.
  8. Thanks so much for these great suggestions. I agree, needle settings is something I DEFINITELY need to wrap my head around! I often see folks adjust their needle valves while the engine is running. I'm sure they're listening for something, but I'm not quite sure what that is. I guess that's where experience really does become super-important. As for the nitro fuel percent, that's another area I am absolutely clueless about. I didn't even realize there was a difference - I figured nitro was nitro...everyone runs the same (sort of like in your garden tools). So the higher the nitro percentage, the less wear-and-tear on the engine...? I've already ordered a new pull-start assembly, but when I pull the old one off I'll definitely try to rebuild/repair it if I can. In my experience with vintage RC stuff, the more spare parts you have, the better.
  9. I do have some denatured alcohol... will that work to help clean things up a bit? If not, I don't have any Nitro so I'm going to have to visit a local hobby shop to see if I can get some. I have ordered a Nitro RC "starter set" which includes a glow starter, some T-wrenches, some screw drivers, and fuel fill bottle as well. Probably a good idea for me to wait for that before I get too far in trying to start this thing huh?
  10. You're probably right about that. I'm really glad I posted about this before trying anything really stupid like trying to run it without a thorough inspection. I have noticed the engine won't turn over when I try to turn on the anodized blue flywheel. Most likely the engine is gummed up as you've suggested. Thanks for the tips - I'll definitely make sure the motor spins free before trying to start it.
  11. It's a strange green goo. I honestly have no idea what it is. I'm assuming it's old fuel that just broken down from years of sitting...? Unless I'm told otherwise, my plan is to take the tank off and clean it out with some denatured alcohol soon.
  12. Thank you for all the great information! I've been scouring the interwebs trying to find out as much info as I can about this model. I've learned a bit, and several folks with more experience have contacted me with more info. Love the R/C community. I've actually just ordered a replacement pull-start assembly as well as a pull-start blanking cover as well. RB Concept parts (the engine manufacturer) are somewhat hard to come across; RB was an Italian manufacturer of very high performance RC racing engines, but they went out of business in 2015. I'm with you - I'm thinking a replacement engine might be in order. I don't think the engine that's installed is worn out at all (in fact, it looks virtually brand new... there's literally no wear or discoloration...if it has ever been run, it may have only been once) but given it's rarity, I'd rather not risk damaging it given my inexperience with nitro. Unfortunately, that inexperience means I'm just not sure what nitro engine I should be looking to get. And I do have a RadioLink RC6GS V2 I can use with this model - just need to get a second R7FG receiver if I decide to go that rought. But by the same token, a Futaba transmitter that will work this this setup isn't difficult or expensive so either way I'm sure will be fine. I'm excited about this model. I honestly thought it was going to be a basket case not worth fixing; the original eBay auction photos weren't very good, and the seller even stated no body or electronics would be included, which is clearly not the case. I think this is a great score, and will prove to be the gateway into nitro R/C for me. Thanks again for the great info! BTW - if you watch til the end of the video, I do reveal what I paid for the model :-)
  13. I know nitro isn't quite as "simple" as electric, but it can't be THAT bad, can it?
  14. So as per the title, I just picked up a rather nice example of what I believe is a largely unused Tamiya TG10 Mk1 PRO 1/10 4WD nitro powered on-road car. And frankly, I know NOTHING about nitro cars...and I know even less about this particular car! The previous owner did say the engine is an RB Concepts C12 3-port nitro 2 stroke. And upon inspection, it appears to have all it's electronics - Futaba S3003 servos for both steering and throttle controls, as well as a Futaba R123F 3 channel micro receiver. I believe this is a 75MHz FM receiver. I'm extremely new to nitro R/C anything so this is going to be a steep learning curve. I'm definitely going to need a transmitter as the car didn't come with one. I'm also unsure if the engine is supposed to be pull-start or bump start (there looks to be a housing with a hole where there once may have been a pull handle and cord). Trouble is, RB Concepts is no longer in business so finding parts for this engine won't be easy. Let the fun begin, I guess... If anyone's interested, I have posted an unboxing video to YouTube the day it arrived (literally yesterday).
  • Create New...