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RCRLMichael

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  1. RCRLMichael
    Thank you for all the great information! I've been scouring the interwebs trying to find out as much info as I can about this model. I've learned a bit, and several folks with more experience have contacted me with more info. Love the R/C community. I've actually just ordered a replacement pull-start assembly as well as a pull-start blanking cover as well. RB Concept parts (the engine manufacturer) are somewhat hard to come across; RB was an Italian manufacturer of very high performance RC racing engines, but they went out of business in 2015. I'm with you - I'm thinking a replacement engine might be in order. I don't think the engine that's installed is worn out at all (in fact, it looks virtually brand new... there's literally no wear or discoloration...if it has ever been run, it may have only been once) but given it's rarity, I'd rather not risk damaging it given my inexperience with nitro. Unfortunately, that inexperience means I'm just not sure what nitro engine I should be looking to get. And I do have a RadioLink RC6GS V2 I can use with this model - just need to get a second R7FG receiver if I decide to go that rought. But by the same token, a Futaba transmitter that will work this this setup isn't difficult or expensive so either way I'm sure will be fine. I'm excited about this model. I honestly thought it was going to be a basket case not worth fixing; the original eBay auction photos weren't very good, and the seller even stated no body or electronics would be included, which is clearly not the case. I think this is a great score, and will prove to be the gateway into nitro R/C for me. Thanks again for the great info! BTW - if you watch til the end of the video, I do reveal what I paid for the model :-)
  2. RCRLMichael
    I know nitro isn't quite as "simple" as electric, but it can't be THAT bad, can it?
  3. RCRLMichael
    So as per the title, I just picked up a rather nice example of what I believe is a largely unused Tamiya TG10 Mk1 PRO 1/10 4WD nitro powered on-road car. And frankly, I know NOTHING about nitro cars...and I know even less about this particular car! The previous owner did say the engine is an RB Concepts C12 3-port nitro 2 stroke. And upon inspection, it appears to have all it's electronics - Futaba S3003 servos for both steering and throttle controls, as well as a Futaba R123F 3 channel micro receiver. I believe this is a 75MHz FM receiver. I'm extremely new to nitro R/C anything so this is going to be a steep learning curve. I'm definitely going to need a transmitter as the car didn't come with one. I'm also unsure if the engine is supposed to be pull-start or bump start (there looks to be a housing with a hole where there once may have been a pull handle and cord). Trouble is, RB Concepts is no longer in business so finding parts for this engine won't be easy. Let the fun begin, I guess... If anyone's interested, I have posted an unboxing video to YouTube the day it arrived (literally yesterday).
  4. RCRLMichael
    Thanks for the reply. I'll go with the 20C pack for this particular build. As for the low voltage cut-off, I'm aware the TBLE-02S isn't ideally set up for LiPo for that reason. I've seen a hack online for the TBLE-02S to make it LiPo friendly by altering it's low-voltage cut-off point, but I'm nowhere near skilled enough with a soldering iron for that sort of mod. Instead, I'm going to be running this particular vehicle (a Tamiya DT-03 Racing Fighter) with a RadioLink R6GS Version 2 transmitter with R7FG receiver. This receiver allows for on-vehicle battery monitoring. The transmitter itself has a low-voltage alarm that can be set to go-off when the battery within the vehicle gets to a specified level. I may even add an additional on-vehicle LiPo alarm as well just as an added piece of insurance (they're cheap and don't add much weight or complexity). This is going to be my first "big boy" LiPo battery pack so I've been watching several videos on YouTube about charging, use, and general maintenance of LiPos. Very different from the NiMh and NiCad batteries I'm used to. Thanks again for the reply and the tips. Cheers!
  5. RCRLMichael
    I realize this is an old topic, but I did want to ask those who are running LiPo batteries with a TBLE-02S, what "C" rating are you using? I'm trying to decide between a 20C or 50C LiPo battery (both are 5000mAh 2S). The price difference is significant between the two, but based on the numbers the less expensive 20C pack's 100A continuous discharge rate should be more than adequate to be used with the TBLE-02S' 60A continuous draw. TIA!
  6. RCRLMichael
    UPDATE: Been a while since posting here, but I thought I'd give a quick update for those following along. So I took the advice of some of the contributors here and ordered a genuine Tamiya 19T mod 0.8 pinion from RCMart.com for my upcoming DT-03 Racing Fighter build (along with a bunch of other bits... because, why wouldn't you?). There was some discussion as to the length of time those parts would arrive from Hong Kong (where RCMart is located) to me here in The Motor City, USA. Parts were ordered on July 19th, and shipped out on July 21st, 2020. The package was received on August 9th, 2020. So about two and a half weeks of transit time using RCMart's offered SF-Express Delivery service. Given that the world has basically gone to pot (with America being the epicenter of it all) that's not too bad a delivery duration. This is actually my first time ordering from RCMart, and I'd imagine once everything does eventually one day hopefully get back to something we'd all like to consider normal again, the delivery times will get even better. Now to get on with the build.
  7. RCRLMichael
    Hi all, I'm in need of some advice from those of you who have experience with the DT-03 chassis. Specifically, battery advice and which battery to go with. The electronics I'll be using in this build are relatively simple: I'll be using the stock TBLE-02S ESC that came with the kit, along with a Tamiya TBLM-02S sensored 10.5T brushless motor, and either a RadioLink R7FG or R6F receiver (haven't decided if I want a gyro in this buggy). I've been back and forth between using a NiMh or a LiPo battery for this build. I don't plan to race this buggy at all - it'll just be a fun recreational run-about with maybe an occasional trip to a local RC track, but no competitive use. Most of my experience has been with NiMh batteries, specifically Venom Power brand batteries, but I know LiPo is the way to go for sheer, raw performance, especially for a brushless setup. I'm not married to either NiMh or LiPo though - I'll consider any option. So I turn to those of you who are far more experienced with this: what battery would you recommend for my DT-03 Racing Fighter? Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
  8. RCRLMichael
    I could only wish to see anything coming from overseas in even double that amount of time... heck triple would still be fine. The last eParcel item I ordered anything from Hong Kong was the Racing Fighter kit itself, and it went from Distribution Center to Distribution Center all over the United States, spending typically a week at each one... sometimes more. I think it visited 3 or 4 different DCs here in the US and that didn't include the transit time just to get to the U.S. I don't doubt my RC Mart order will get to me. I'm just not holding my breath that it'll be in less than 4 weeks.
  9. RCRLMichael
    My plan right now is to run a Tamiya 10.5T TBLM-02S sensored brushless motor. I'm not certain what size the output shaft of the motor is, but I'm going to assume it's the same as a standard-issue Mabuchi 540. The Robinson Racing gear I have is #RRP1719. Doing a quick Google search reveals it's a 1/8" bore, and comes with a 5-40 set screw. Will that fit the TBLM-02S output shaft? It's funny you mentioned RC Mart because I've actually just hit the check out button at RCMart.com for the Tamiya 19T pinion, along with a few additional hop-up items for this buggy. I'm sure RCMart is a reputable seller; I've never purchased anything from them but I know they've been around a long time. My bigger concern at this point is the ridiculously long shipping times from HK to the US these days. My Racing Fighter itself came from HK and it took well over a month to get here. I get we're in a pandemic and these are unprecedented times, but that transit time is just WAY too long, especially for what people are paying in postage. But these are first world problems I suppose.
  10. RCRLMichael
    Truth be told, I won't be getting rid of the 32dp Robinson Racing gear I picked up yesterday. For the $5 I paid for it, it's not worth the effort to haul it back to the hobby store. I'll hold on to it for now; if I can find the genuine Tamiya 19T Mod 08 steel pinion before I begin the build then this gear will sit as a spare. If not, then I'll use this Robinson unit until I can get the Tamiya one.
  11. RCRLMichael
    I've seen the math re: this subject before. And while I realize that a 32P gear is as near as makes no difference to a Module 0.8 gear, the fact that this is a hardened steel pinion gear meshing with a plastic spur gear means that at some point there may be a wear issue. I'm also planning to run a 10.5T sensored brushless motor in this buggy, which I'm sure is not going to help the cause with the power and torque that will develop. I think in the interest of longevity, I'm going to keep searching to find the geniune Tamiya 19T Mod 0.8 steel pinion. I'm sure I'll find it somewhere, even if it means waiting a month for it to arrive. Cheers to everyone for all the advice and responses though. I really do appreciate it. This forum is a fantastic resource for this sort of stuff!
  12. RCRLMichael
    The last few months here in Americaland has definitely proven to be far more difficult to get these "little bits and pieces" to complete a build. Sometimes you get lucky and find someone on eBay or Amazon selling items located here in the U.S., but most of the bit online retailers are sold out of a lot of items... even Tamiya USA is running low on a fair bit of stock. And you're right - that $5 pinion has quickly spiraled into a $75 order in an effort to take advantage of the shipping costs. Better than pouring it down my throat I suppose.
  13. RCRLMichael
    And this is what has me concerned. I think I'll keep looking for the correct Tamiya part. I'm sure I can find it somewhere for a decent price and not have to pay ridiculous shipping charges.
  14. RCRLMichael
    I've read about the noise that some have experienced, but I've also read that some have had great results with the Robinson unit. I wonder if the type / amount of grease used would make a difference or not. Truth be told, unless the noise is truly obnoxious I'm not all that worried about it. My bigger concern is the potential wear of the spur gear inside the transmission.
  15. RCRLMichael
    In the U.S., just outside of Detroit Michigan.
  16. RCRLMichael
    Hello all, I recently took delivery of a Tamiya Racing Fighter (DT-03) kit. Been waiting on this one for quite a while (I ordered back when this pandemic started and only arrive a few days ago). I'm really looking forward to this build as this will be my first Tamiya buggy since the original Hornet release back in the mid-to-late 80s! I'm pretty sure a lot has changed in that time. During my wait for the kit to be delivered, I spent a fair bit of time reading the boards and watching YouTube videos and I've begun to amass various Hop-Up options several folks have suggested. Some have arrived with several still on their way. However the one that is proving to be difficult to find at any sort of reasonable price - either online or in stores - is the Tamiya Hop-Up Option #54629 steel 19T 0.8 Module pinion. The lowest I've found is around $30 shipped, coming from overseas. This is a part with a $5 retail price! I happened to wander into a local hobby store earlier today looking to get some PS paint and asked if they had anything equivalent to the Tamiya Hop-Up Option part. They handed me a hardened steel 19T 32pitch absolute pinion (part number 1719) from Robinson Racing. The sales person said that the 32pitch is the same as 0.8 Module and that I shouldn't have any issues. For the price ($5) I figured I had nothing to lose, but before I install it I wanted to ask if anyone here can verify that this Is indeed true? Thanks very much in advance. Cheers! Michael
  17. RCRLMichael
    I've read through a fair bit of those posts. Using a GRU - either HPI or RC4WD - seems a common theme, with many pairing it with a high-turn motor (65T, 80T, 85T, etc...). Personally I'd like to try and try and do all I can to drop the speed without having to resort to a GRU. Most GRUs require cutting the chassis to get them to fit, and cutting up a brand new CC-01 doesn't sit well with me... at least for the time being. But the good news is I just pulled the trigger on a SAVOX SW-0231MG servo and an RC4WD 80T brushed motor. Found both on Amazon - $39 for the servo and $13 for the motor, Prime shipping so they should both be here before the end of the week. I'm sure the servo will be ideal for this application; for the cost, I'm sure the 80T motor will at least prove a learning experience (if not entertaining) if I decide it's not what I'm looking for.
  18. RCRLMichael
    You raise an interesting point about the CC-01 not being geared low enough to be a "crawler". I'm wondering if maybe I should consider something like an 80T brushed motor instead of a 55T or 60T? It's not like the prices are very different from one to the other, but I'm sure the capabilities / driving realism is quite different.
  19. RCRLMichael
    Thanks for the tip about the SAVOX servo's size. I've seen other's mention that it is a tiny bit larger than a standard servo, but I've also seen it installed on several other CC-01 chassis and it looks to fit without issues. And given that it's a CC-01 chassis, I'm not too concerned about fitment - it looks to have a fair bit of space. Had it been one of the smaller 4wd on-road chassis or even a buggy chassis I might have been a bit concerned. But I'm confident it'll be ok in the CC-01 without modifications or issues. As for which motor I'll be running, for the time being I was going to simply run the stock silver can that comes in the kit. I'd eventually like to step up to a nice 55T or 60T brushed motor, maybe one of the RC4WD brushed offerings...? I've heard good things about their motors, but I'm extremely new to crawlers so any advice would be greatly appreciated. As for battery, I have a relatively brand new 5000mAh Venom NiMH 6-cell 7.2v pack that I was going to use in a TL-01 car, but it doesn't fit. I was thinking to maybe use that pack in the CC-01 if it fits. If it doesn't fit then I may go with one of Venom's 3000mAh units. I have virtually zero experience with LiPos, and while I know the entire hobby has basically moved to LiPos by this point, I was just going to keep things simple with this build. But again, any suggestions in this regard would be greatly appreciated. As for my location, I live just outside of Detroit in Troy, Michigan. I'm intrigued about the LRP AI Runner ESC. Other than being waterproof, how does it compare to the stock Tamiya ESC included with the CC-01 kit (the specific kit I have is the Land Rover Defender 90 variant). Send me a PM here on the forum if you'd like.
  20. RCRLMichael
    I'll definitely check out both the RC6GS and the GT5. I've heard both units mentioned on various RC forums and by some big-name YouTubers. Thanks for the suggestion!
  21. RCRLMichael
    It's funny you mention Savox because I plan to use a Savox SW-0231MG servo in this build. I've never used a Savox servo before but from everything I've read and seen, they make some really nice stuff, and I like that it's not only waterproof but also rebuildable. But now you've got me thinking about a waterproof ESC too. I didn't realize the Tamiya kit provided unit wasn't waterproof...the rabbit hole just continues to get deeper.
  22. RCRLMichael
    Thanks for the information - didn't realize receivers aren't typically waterproof and instead they're put into waterproof (or I should say water resistant) boxes. Good to know - I'll check out the Traxxas box you've mentioned. As for the Futaba recommendation, I've always been a fan of Futaba products. And normally they're my go-to brand for electronics. But I also know that a lot of folks talk about brands like FlySky and Turnity and a few others that are extremely reasonably priced in comparison, so I thought maybe one of those brands might be a decent TX/RX substitute.
  23. RCRLMichael
    Hi all, I'm looking for receiver (and ultimately transmitter) recommendations for my upcoming CC-01 build. Not looking to break the bank, but would like something that's waterproof (if that's a thing) since I plan to use this vehicle purely for recreational rock crawling and slow trail drives (no high-speed or competitive use). Not sure how many channels I'm going to need; I do plan to run lights and would like the ability to turn them on and off using the transmitter. I'd also like to run a winch at some point too, which I'd also like to actuate using the transmitter. Not sure this is important but I'm planning to run a brushed motor setup although I haven't decided if / when I'm going to swap the stock silver can for something like a 55T or 60T unit. I'll be looking to get a metal pinion gear to replace the stock plastic unit regardless. I should also mention I don't plan to swap out the stock Tamiya ESC that comes with the kit, unless someone can provide a compelling argument that it's worth the added expense to do so. Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
  24. RCRLMichael
    Hi all, New member here, first post so go easy on me. I very recently took delivery of my brand new Tamiya CC-01 Land Rover Defender 90. This is my very first ever crawler (all my previous R/C experience has come in the form of 1/10 Tamiya buggies and on-road 4WD cars) and I'm really excited to get stuck in. I've done a fair bit of reading and watching YouTube videos on the CC-01, so I'm aware of it's short comes and things to upgrade soon after assembly. I'm waiting on a ball-bearing set to arrive any day now, and I'll be ordering the Yeah Racing steering upgrade set very soon. I'm also looking at a 4-link rear upgrade at some point down the line too. However the reason I'm posting is to ask for suggestions with respect to a steering servo. I'm not using this vehicle in competition, but I would like a servo that will hold up to general crawling/low-speed dirt trail use. I've been looking at getting a Savox SW-0231MG waterproof high torque standard metal gear digital servo. I've never had a Savox servo before, but even though this is a low cost offering I know they generally make very good products. I also like that Savox servos are serviceable/rebuildable, which should in theory extend it's useful lifespan. This servo sells for about $39 dollars on Amazon right now, but I was curious if anyone here thought there might be a better option to use in a CC-01 for the money... or if there might be something significantly better for a tiny bit more money? Just looking to maximize what I get for the dollars spent. Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
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