RCRLMichael
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Posts posted by RCRLMichael
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7 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:
what I have learned from m first nitro car is... dont. rather dont.
I bought a Carson CH04 belt driven chassis
I know nitro isn't quite as "simple" as electric, but it can't be THAT bad, can it?
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So as per the title, I just picked up a rather nice example of what I believe is a largely unused Tamiya TG10 Mk1 PRO 1/10 4WD nitro powered on-road car.
And frankly, I know NOTHING about nitro cars...and I know even less about this particular car!
The previous owner did say the engine is an RB Concepts C12 3-port nitro 2 stroke. And upon inspection, it appears to have all it's electronics - Futaba S3003 servos for both steering and throttle controls, as well as a Futaba R123F 3 channel micro receiver. I believe this is a 75MHz FM receiver.
I'm extremely new to nitro R/C anything so this is going to be a steep learning curve. I'm definitely going to need a transmitter as the car didn't come with one. I'm also unsure if the engine is supposed to be pull-start or bump start (there looks to be a housing with a hole where there once may have been a pull handle and cord). Trouble is, RB Concepts is no longer in business so finding parts for this engine won't be easy.
Let the fun begin, I guess...
If anyone's interested, I have posted an unboxing video to YouTube the day it arrived (literally yesterday).
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2 hours ago, Juls1 said:
20c 5000 plenty on tble-02s.
the esc should overheat before you could damage the battery pack from over current.
just keep in mind it doesn’t cutoff until Under 3.0v per cell which is slightly on the low side for lipo. Just remember to stop driving as soon as the pack dumps or loses significant power. if you can’t do that get a lipo cutoff alarm.
Always recharge (or discharge) to 3.8-4.0v per cell within 12-24hrs of use for storage. Failing to store lipo’s with a storage level charge is the main reason Lipo packs die. Always check your packs voltage when your finished using them for the day and return to a storage voltage level.
storing lipos flat or fully charged for extended periods will kill the battery.
Thanks for the reply. I'll go with the 20C pack for this particular build.
As for the low voltage cut-off, I'm aware the TBLE-02S isn't ideally set up for LiPo for that reason. I've seen a hack online for the TBLE-02S to make it LiPo friendly by altering it's low-voltage cut-off point, but I'm nowhere near skilled enough with a soldering iron for that sort of mod. Instead, I'm going to be running this particular vehicle (a Tamiya DT-03 Racing Fighter) with a RadioLink R6GS Version 2 transmitter with R7FG receiver. This receiver allows for on-vehicle battery monitoring. The transmitter itself has a low-voltage alarm that can be set to go-off when the battery within the vehicle gets to a specified level. I may even add an additional on-vehicle LiPo alarm as well just as an added piece of insurance (they're cheap and don't add much weight or complexity).
This is going to be my first "big boy" LiPo battery pack so I've been watching several videos on YouTube about charging, use, and general maintenance of LiPos. Very different from the NiMh and NiCad batteries I'm used to.
Thanks again for the reply and the tips. Cheers!
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I realize this is an old topic, but I did want to ask those who are running LiPo batteries with a TBLE-02S, what "C" rating are you using?
I'm trying to decide between a 20C or 50C LiPo battery (both are 5000mAh 2S). The price difference is significant between the two, but based on the numbers the less expensive 20C pack's 100A continuous discharge rate should be more than adequate to be used with the TBLE-02S' 60A continuous draw.
TIA!
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UPDATE:
Been a while since posting here, but I thought I'd give a quick update for those following along.
So I took the advice of some of the contributors here and ordered a genuine Tamiya 19T mod 0.8 pinion from RCMart.com for my upcoming DT-03 Racing Fighter build (along with a bunch of other bits... because, why wouldn't you?). There was some discussion as to the length of time those parts would arrive from Hong Kong (where RCMart is located) to me here in The Motor City, USA.
Parts were ordered on July 19th, and shipped out on July 21st, 2020. The package was received on August 9th, 2020. So about two and a half weeks of transit time using RCMart's offered SF-Express Delivery service.
Given that the world has basically gone to pot (with America being the epicenter of it all) that's not too bad a delivery duration.
This is actually my first time ordering from RCMart, and I'd imagine once everything does eventually one day hopefully get back to something we'd all like to consider normal again, the delivery times will get even better.
Now to get on with the build.
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Hi all,
I'm in need of some advice from those of you who have experience with the DT-03 chassis. Specifically, battery advice and which battery to go with.
The electronics I'll be using in this build are relatively simple: I'll be using the stock TBLE-02S ESC that came with the kit, along with a Tamiya TBLM-02S sensored 10.5T brushless motor, and either a RadioLink R7FG or R6F receiver (haven't decided if I want a gyro in this buggy).
I've been back and forth between using a NiMh or a LiPo battery for this build. I don't plan to race this buggy at all - it'll just be a fun recreational run-about with maybe an occasional trip to a local RC track, but no competitive use. Most of my experience has been with NiMh batteries, specifically Venom Power brand batteries, but I know LiPo is the way to go for sheer, raw performance, especially for a brushless setup. I'm not married to either NiMh or LiPo though - I'll consider any option.
So I turn to those of you who are far more experienced with this: what battery would you recommend for my DT-03 Racing Fighter?
Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
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2 hours ago, Juls1 said:
I got my last order from RCMart last week,
Came by Fedex, 4 days from HK to me in Australia.
Our internal freight system in Australia is relatively uneffected for express parcels, I don't know what your internal freight systems are like in the US as they might rely more heavily on local flights.
I generally do a order a month from rcmart (and have done last 5+ years), they've never failed me yet.
The thing I like most about rcmart is the order is normally dispatched in 2-3 days, alot of the other HK sellers can take up to 10 days to dispatch.
Juls
I could only wish to see anything coming from overseas in even double that amount of time... heck triple would still be fine. The last eParcel item I ordered anything from Hong Kong was the Racing Fighter kit itself, and it went from Distribution Center to Distribution Center all over the United States, spending typically a week at each one... sometimes more. I think it visited 3 or 4 different DCs here in the US and that didn't include the transit time just to get to the U.S.
I don't doubt my RC Mart order will get to me. I'm just not holding my breath that it'll be in less than 4 weeks.
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28 minutes ago, Champ85 said:
@RCRLMichael What is the size of the brushless motor shaft you will be using? 1/8" or 5mm? Double check this.
Searching on eBay, there are 0.8mod pinions available from US sellers for both 1/8" and 5mm bores made by Arrma and Robinson Racing.
For example, Arrma AR310631 is a 19T 0.8mod pinion with 1/8" (3.2mm) bore per manufacturers' website. They are weasely when it comes to describing what it is made out of, however, saying only "manufactured from hard-wearing super-tough material". So it could be aluminum butter for all I know.
Robinson Racing RRP8719 is a 19T 0.8mod steel pinion with 5mm bore.
If you really want the Tamiya pinions with 1/8" bore, then your best bet is to order Tamiya 54629 from RCMart in Hong Kong. They are a reliable and trustworthy seller. A single pinion is $3.10 plus $5.12 shipping to my US address so probably the same for you. In fact, I just ordered two of them plus two 54628 17T pinions as well since I didn't have any of either in my stock of parts. Total for all 4 pinions was $20.58 which I think is a good price.
My plan right now is to run a Tamiya 10.5T TBLM-02S sensored brushless motor. I'm not certain what size the output shaft of the motor is, but I'm going to assume it's the same as a standard-issue Mabuchi 540. The Robinson Racing gear I have is #RRP1719. Doing a quick Google search reveals it's a 1/8" bore, and comes with a 5-40 set screw. Will that fit the TBLM-02S output shaft?
It's funny you mentioned RC Mart because I've actually just hit the check out button at RCMart.com for the Tamiya 19T pinion, along with a few additional hop-up items for this buggy. I'm sure RCMart is a reputable seller; I've never purchased anything from them but I know they've been around a long time. My bigger concern at this point is the ridiculously long shipping times from HK to the US these days. My Racing Fighter itself came from HK and it took well over a month to get here. I get we're in a pandemic and these are unprecedented times, but that transit time is just WAY too long, especially for what people are paying in postage.
But these are first world problems I suppose.
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4 hours ago, Wooders28 said:
I run hardened 32dp in all the cars that run 08mod, and had no issues, even after years of brushless use.
48dp will NOT work in 05mod, and with only 0.03 of a difference, a nightmare if you mix them up in your spares.......🙈😭
Truth be told, I won't be getting rid of the 32dp Robinson Racing gear I picked up yesterday. For the $5 I paid for it, it's not worth the effort to haul it back to the hobby store. I'll hold on to it for now; if I can find the genuine Tamiya 19T Mod 08 steel pinion before I begin the build then this gear will sit as a spare. If not, then I'll use this Robinson unit until I can get the Tamiya one.
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10 hours ago, ACCEL said:
Gear pitch, Mod?
Not much, so long as you know how to set your gear mesh and are certain that it will remain as you set it.From Traxxas Forum
Originally Posted by Gripdog7205
Can someone chime in on this. What is the benefit of running 32 pitch gears instead of 48. Also what is Mod 1 or .8. What does all this mean. Does it add to strength, more options?
Simplified, 48P, 32P, 0.8 mod, and 1.0 mod are measures of gear tooth size and are referenced to one inch or 25.4mm of pitch diameter. They express a ratio, with the P numbers being the numerator (top number) of the fraction and 25.4 being the denominator (bottom number) OR the mod values being the denominator and 25.4 being the numerator. So:
48P/25.4 = 0.5288m
32P/25.4 = 0.7938m
25.4/0.8m = 31.7653P
25.4/1.0m = 25.4P
I have listed them in order of ascending tooth size. Having larger teeth does lend more strength and a certain amount of mesh forgiveness, but it also reduces efficiency. On a severely overpowered Rustler or Bandit, switching to 32P/0.8 mod or even 1.0 mod may be necessary for spur gear longevity, but you'll likely have to upgrade all other driveline parts before you must make the change.
I KNOW others will disagree. (And that's O-KAY.)From RC UNIVERSE;
Mod .8 or whatever is else is the metric way of measuring gears (mod is short for module). What that is measuring is the distance one tooth is from the other. For example, .8 mod would be 1 tooth for every .8cm (8 millimeters). Pitch on the other hand is the Imperial (US) way of measuring gears. I'm not exactly sure how the pitch is calculated, but it uses inches obviously. So, .8 mod and 32p are compatible in my experience, however I don't know if technically the numbers match up, but then again, don't get too caught up in the science of it. If it works, it works. Hopefully this helped.
and there is a few more that i came across during the Valkyrie Vette build, some say they'll prematurely wear out, others disagree,
The MST CFX-W has M06 gears, i have so many different gears now i'm going to open a watch & clock shop.
personally i'd want them the same, but not all had the tooth count so i just started buying what was available in the pitch that i needed which was several being different spurs and motor Turns/KV's
I've seen the math re: this subject before. And while I realize that a 32P gear is as near as makes no difference to a Module 0.8 gear, the fact that this is a hardened steel pinion gear meshing with a plastic spur gear means that at some point there may be a wear issue. I'm also planning to run a 10.5T sensored brushless motor in this buggy, which I'm sure is not going to help the cause with the power and torque that will develop.
I think in the interest of longevity, I'm going to keep searching to find the geniune Tamiya 19T Mod 0.8 steel pinion. I'm sure I'll find it somewhere, even if it means waiting a month for it to arrive.
Cheers to everyone for all the advice and responses though. I really do appreciate it. This forum is a fantastic resource for this sort of stuff!
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1 minute ago, Juls1 said:
Unfortunately in current times there is no cheap freight that doesn’t take a lifetime to arrive, with 80+% of the planes in the world grounded then there is no where to put cheap air freight items. So for the next few years sadly we just gotta suck it up and deal with the cost. My suggestion is find the item you want from a seller that has some other parts you want (but may not need) to spread out the freight cost a little.
if your like any of the rest of us here, it’s not unusual for a $5 part to turn into a $200+ order....
The last few months here in Americaland has definitely proven to be far more difficult to get these "little bits and pieces" to complete a build. Sometimes you get lucky and find someone on eBay or Amazon selling items located here in the U.S., but most of the bit online retailers are sold out of a lot of items... even Tamiya USA is running low on a fair bit of stock.
And you're right - that $5 pinion has quickly spiraled into a $75 order in an effort to take advantage of the shipping costs. Better than pouring it down my throat I suppose.
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4 minutes ago, Juls1 said:
It will work, however the Tamiya steel pinion is a one off purchase, as in, it won’t wear out. Neither will it wear the gear it’s running against. I guess you gotta figure it out value wise, for me if it’s double the money of the rrp, then it’s still worth it to have the right part. But if it’s 4 x the price the may as well try the rrp unit.
Juls
And this is what has me concerned.
I think I'll keep looking for the correct Tamiya part. I'm sure I can find it somewhere for a decent price and not have to pay ridiculous shipping charges.
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Just now, Seanster43 said:
It’ll be fine you might find it a bit noisy, the dt-02 shares the same gearbox as well. A few folk have used the carson steel pinion part number is 13409.
I've read about the noise that some have experienced, but I've also read that some have had great results with the Robinson unit. I wonder if the type / amount of grease used would make a difference or not.
Truth be told, unless the noise is truly obnoxious I'm not all that worried about it. My bigger concern is the potential wear of the spur gear inside the transmission.
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Just now, Seanster43 said:
Where you based mate?
In the U.S., just outside of Detroit Michigan.
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Hello all,
I recently took delivery of a Tamiya Racing Fighter (DT-03) kit. Been waiting on this one for quite a while (I ordered back when this pandemic started and only arrive a few days ago). I'm really looking forward to this build as this will be my first Tamiya buggy since the original Hornet release back in the mid-to-late 80s! I'm pretty sure a lot has changed in that time.
During my wait for the kit to be delivered, I spent a fair bit of time reading the boards and watching YouTube videos and I've begun to amass various Hop-Up options several folks have suggested. Some have arrived with several still on their way. However the one that is proving to be difficult to find at any sort of reasonable price - either online or in stores - is the Tamiya Hop-Up Option #54629 steel 19T 0.8 Module pinion. The lowest I've found is around $30 shipped, coming from overseas. This is a part with a $5 retail price!
I happened to wander into a local hobby store earlier today looking to get some PS paint and asked if they had anything equivalent to the Tamiya Hop-Up Option part. They handed me a hardened steel 19T 32pitch absolute pinion (part number 1719) from Robinson Racing. The sales person said that the 32pitch is the same as 0.8 Module and that I shouldn't have any issues. For the price ($5) I figured I had nothing to lose, but before I install it I wanted to ask if anyone here can verify that this Is indeed true?
Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
Michael
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33 minutes ago, SupraChrgd82 said:
Thant's a common question amongst CC-01 owners. A 55-60t motor seems to be the middle ground, depending on the type of terrain you run the truck.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-xc-cc01/387418-cc01-way-way-way-too-fast.html
https://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=76068&page=3
There's a few ways to go about it; just use high turn motor, gear reduction and trim the chassis to fit the stock can, gear reduction and short can motor as bolt on option.
I've read through a fair bit of those posts. Using a GRU - either HPI or RC4WD - seems a common theme, with many pairing it with a high-turn motor (65T, 80T, 85T, etc...). Personally I'd like to try and try and do all I can to drop the speed without having to resort to a GRU. Most GRUs require cutting the chassis to get them to fit, and cutting up a brand new CC-01 doesn't sit well with me... at least for the time being.
But the good news is I just pulled the trigger on a SAVOX SW-0231MG servo and an RC4WD 80T brushed motor. Found both on Amazon - $39 for the servo and $13 for the motor, Prime shipping so they should both be here before the end of the week. I'm sure the servo will be ideal for this application; for the cost, I'm sure the 80T motor will at least prove a learning experience (if not entertaining) if I decide it's not what I'm looking for.
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1 hour ago, SupraChrgd82 said:
If I still had a CC-01, I'd be running the same as you. I prefer NiMH batteries.
The stock motor is 27t. A 55-60t will drastically slow it down and extend run times. It's not geared low enough to be a "crawler", but it will be a fun trail truck. If you want to be able to creep with a great deal of control, I suggest the Axial AE-5 ESC, RC4wd gear reduction unit, and a super stubby motor.
The stock ESC and the LRP I have are good for trail runners and bashers, but don't offer smooth operation at low RPM. I don't think you would be happy with the LRP.
Here's some reasonable deals:
You raise an interesting point about the CC-01 not being geared low enough to be a "crawler". I'm wondering if maybe I should consider something like an 80T brushed motor instead of a 55T or 60T? It's not like the prices are very different from one to the other, but I'm sure the capabilities / driving realism is quite different.
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14 minutes ago, SupraChrgd82 said:
Savox is one of the biggest names in the servo market currently. Good choice.
The 0231 is a excellent servo - cost-effective, standard voltage, reasonable torque, waterproof, rebuildable, but about 0.8mm larger than most other servos. Measure the hole it's going to be mounted in to assure it will fit.
https://www.savoxusa.com/products/savsw0231mg-waterproof-std-digital
The Axial AE-5 is a good waterproof ESC with LiPO and NiMH capability, adjustable dragbrake and great low speed control.
RCRLMichael -
What motor are you using?
What batteries are you using?
Where are you located? I have a spare LRP AI Runner waterproof ESC I pulled from my CC-01 years ago. If you are in the ConUS, you can have it for $5+shipping.
Thanks for the tip about the SAVOX servo's size. I've seen other's mention that it is a tiny bit larger than a standard servo, but I've also seen it installed on several other CC-01 chassis and it looks to fit without issues. And given that it's a CC-01 chassis, I'm not too concerned about fitment - it looks to have a fair bit of space. Had it been one of the smaller 4wd on-road chassis or even a buggy chassis I might have been a bit concerned. But I'm confident it'll be ok in the CC-01 without modifications or issues.
As for which motor I'll be running, for the time being I was going to simply run the stock silver can that comes in the kit. I'd eventually like to step up to a nice 55T or 60T brushed motor, maybe one of the RC4WD brushed offerings...? I've heard good things about their motors, but I'm extremely new to crawlers so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
As for battery, I have a relatively brand new 5000mAh Venom NiMH 6-cell 7.2v pack that I was going to use in a TL-01 car, but it doesn't fit. I was thinking to maybe use that pack in the CC-01 if it fits. If it doesn't fit then I may go with one of Venom's 3000mAh units. I have virtually zero experience with LiPos, and while I know the entire hobby has basically moved to LiPos by this point, I was just going to keep things simple with this build. But again, any suggestions in this regard would be greatly appreciated.
As for my location, I live just outside of Detroit in Troy, Michigan. I'm intrigued about the LRP AI Runner ESC. Other than being waterproof, how does it compare to the stock Tamiya ESC included with the CC-01 kit (the specific kit I have is the Land Rover Defender 90 variant). Send me a PM here on the forum if you'd like.
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2 hours ago, burakol said:
Radiolink and Flysky are the two brands that will not break the bank... both offers the adjustability and features of higher end radio gear, but the ergonomics and feel may not be as great as higher end brands... And their receivers are relatively affordable...
i opted to get the RC6GS just because im already accustomed to the the earlier radio they released, but I also considered the Flysky GT5. In the end. It was the price and extra features that got me sold on the Radiolink...
I'll definitely check out both the RC6GS and the GT5. I've heard both units mentioned on various RC forums and by some big-name YouTubers. Thanks for the suggestion!
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4 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:
Sanwa make some waterproof receivers and their radios are top notch. Don't really fit the 'don't want to break the bank' bit though.
If you want to go full waterproof you can swap the ESC for a waterproof one too, and Savox make waterproof servos, so you can run completely waterproof electronics. I think Hobbywing do some waterproof brushed ESC, it may even be the 1060
It's funny you mention Savox because I plan to use a Savox SW-0231MG servo in this build. I've never used a Savox servo before but from everything I've read and seen, they make some really nice stuff, and I like that it's not only waterproof but also rebuildable.
But now you've got me thinking about a waterproof ESC too. I didn't realize the Tamiya kit provided unit wasn't waterproof...the rabbit hole just continues to get deeper.
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55 minutes ago, SupraChrgd82 said:
I have not heard of a waterproof receiver, however, Traxxas makes waterproof receiver boxes. Most are less than $15. They are not 100% waterproof, as nothing is, but it will meet your trail needs. Toss in a small desiccant pack from computer parts packaging for extra insurance.
https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5624
As for TX/RX I am partial to the Futaba T-3PV. Lots of adjustments, easy to use, supports 10 models.
If you need one ridiculously cheap, a factory take-off such as an Axial Tactic from ebay will run $30-60.
Thanks for the information - didn't realize receivers aren't typically waterproof and instead they're put into waterproof (or I should say water resistant) boxes. Good to know - I'll check out the Traxxas box you've mentioned.
As for the Futaba recommendation, I've always been a fan of Futaba products. And normally they're my go-to brand for electronics. But I also know that a lot of folks talk about brands like FlySky and Turnity and a few others that are extremely reasonably priced in comparison, so I thought maybe one of those brands might be a decent TX/RX substitute.
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Hi all,
I'm looking for receiver (and ultimately transmitter) recommendations for my upcoming CC-01 build. Not looking to break the bank, but would like something that's waterproof (if that's a thing) since I plan to use this vehicle purely for recreational rock crawling and slow trail drives (no high-speed or competitive use). Not sure how many channels I'm going to need; I do plan to run lights and would like the ability to turn them on and off using the transmitter. I'd also like to run a winch at some point too, which I'd also like to actuate using the transmitter.
Not sure this is important but I'm planning to run a brushed motor setup although I haven't decided if / when I'm going to swap the stock silver can for something like a 55T or 60T unit. I'll be looking to get a metal pinion gear to replace the stock plastic unit regardless.
I should also mention I don't plan to swap out the stock Tamiya ESC that comes with the kit, unless someone can provide a compelling argument that it's worth the added expense to do so.
Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
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Hi all,
New member here, first post so go easy on me.
I very recently took delivery of my brand new Tamiya CC-01 Land Rover Defender 90. This is my very first ever crawler (all my previous R/C experience has come in the form of 1/10 Tamiya buggies and on-road 4WD cars) and I'm really excited to get stuck in.
I've done a fair bit of reading and watching YouTube videos on the CC-01, so I'm aware of it's short comes and things to upgrade soon after assembly. I'm waiting on a ball-bearing set to arrive any day now, and I'll be ordering the Yeah Racing steering upgrade set very soon. I'm also looking at a 4-link rear upgrade at some point down the line too.
However the reason I'm posting is to ask for suggestions with respect to a steering servo. I'm not using this vehicle in competition, but I would like a servo that will hold up to general crawling/low-speed dirt trail use. I've been looking at getting a Savox SW-0231MG waterproof high torque standard metal gear digital servo. I've never had a Savox servo before, but even though this is a low cost offering I know they generally make very good products. I also like that Savox servos are serviceable/rebuildable, which should in theory extend it's useful lifespan. This servo sells for about $39 dollars on Amazon right now, but I was curious if anyone here thought there might be a better option to use in a CC-01 for the money... or if there might be something significantly better for a tiny bit more money? Just looking to maximize what I get for the dollars spent.
Thanks very much in advance. Cheers!
Just got a TG10 Mk1 PRO...and I know NOTHING about nitro cars!
in All things RC Nitro
Posted
Thank you for all the great information! I've been scouring the interwebs trying to find out as much info as I can about this model. I've learned a bit, and several folks with more experience have contacted me with more info. Love the R/C community.
I've actually just ordered a replacement pull-start assembly as well as a pull-start blanking cover as well. RB Concept parts (the engine manufacturer) are somewhat hard to come across; RB was an Italian manufacturer of very high performance RC racing engines, but they went out of business in 2015. I'm with you - I'm thinking a replacement engine might be in order. I don't think the engine that's installed is worn out at all (in fact, it looks virtually brand new... there's literally no wear or discoloration...if it has ever been run, it may have only been once) but given it's rarity, I'd rather not risk damaging it given my inexperience with nitro. Unfortunately, that inexperience means I'm just not sure what nitro engine I should be looking to get.
And I do have a RadioLink RC6GS V2 I can use with this model - just need to get a second R7FG receiver if I decide to go that rought. But by the same token, a Futaba transmitter that will work this this setup isn't difficult or expensive so either way I'm sure will be fine.
I'm excited about this model. I honestly thought it was going to be a basket case not worth fixing; the original eBay auction photos weren't very good, and the seller even stated no body or electronics would be included, which is clearly not the case. I think this is a great score, and will prove to be the gateway into nitro R/C for me.
Thanks again for the great info!
BTW - if you watch til the end of the video, I do reveal what I paid for the model :-)