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Ray McCaleb

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  1. I will be doing a dump truck. It will be based on a King Hauler chassis, 80 turn motor, RCP dump bed, and BEIER SFR1 sound/light unit. The BEIER unit is currently in transit from Germany to US. I will be spending time with it on the bench...learning how it all works...and settling on the myriad of sounds I want with this truck. I also anticipate doing LOTS of customizations, some myself (such as the day cab conversion, some bolt-on, such as the LESU knobby tires). Now that I have the Grand Hauler and flat bed completed I have one I can run while I take my time with the next build. (Ray)
  2. Agree...I am planning and will begin (slowly) acquiring the components for my second build the fall/winter. First, got to let the budget heal! 😀
  3. Yes, the vibration motor plugs directly into the MFC-01 on my Grand Hauler and powers up when the MFC is switched ON. As I mentioned, I looked into an electronic switch so I could turn it off unless showing it. I decided against that option as I prefer the vibration, but much milder than stock. I figured that if I did not like the outcome I could go back to the original...but, I loved it with the mod. NOTE... I run mine with pot #2 trimmed all the way to minimum and it is just what I wanted. (Ray)
  4. I have had issues with the vibration unit on my recently completed Grand Hauler...the same issue MANY have reported previously, TOO MUCH VIBRATION! I had considered installing an in-line electronic switch so that I could choose when to have it running and when not, however, even if I get it working, it is either off, or on and producing too much vibration. Many have chosen to unplug it altogether and do without. I chose a third option...fix the problem. I reasoned that the vibration is the result of the eccentric mass of the weight revolving around the motor shaft and producing said vibration...too much vibration. The problem is not too high an RPM, but too much mass. SOLUTION: I changed out the larger (American) weight for the smaller diameter (European) weight. A couple gains in doing so...two grub screws to secure it, and a smaller diameter puts the mass closer to the rotation center, the motor shaft. BUT...still too much vibration. So, I drilled (5) 3/16” holes in the weight (PHOTO) to remove mass. In my hand with it running, it felt better, so, I installed it. PERFECT! I’ll leave it on all the time as now the vibration, with the pot (MFC-01 potentiometer #2) trimmed to minimum, is about 1/3 to 1/2 what it was before...just what I wanted. NOTE: The mod is simple enough but did require that I use my drill press and drilling vise. If holding and drilling by hand, be careful, it can easily catch fingers. Also, remember to thread lock the grub screws and you may want to silicon seal the metal bracket to the plastic box as it can rattle. Hope this helps others, Ray
  5. Agree! Bob has been great in helping me through this first build. His videos are superb and servicing the orders I have placed with him...the best!
  6. And, I like the look...a bit more old school. I was not aware that the fenders would limit operation, but that is good to know.
  7. This being my first build I was somewhat intimidated when it came to the MFC. I watched several videos, especially those at Hobbyconcepts.com, and moved ahead. It is a bit more labor intensive, but I went slowly...read, watch, plug in, TEST...then repeat for the next function. I resolved each problem as I went and when finished, was finished. All I did when the build was complete was solder in 7 mini plugs (Micro JST) between the MFC and the cab lights (roof, headlights, blinkers). Makes the cab and chassis easily separable. (Ray)
  8. I installed the King Hauler front bumper with fog lights. I also decided to use the half rear fenders with mud flaps. I like the look. Thanks for the input. Ray
  9. The details include MFC 01 and Tamiya Light Gun Metal paint. It is mostly a stock build with a couple small changes. I installed the speaker over the steering and shift servos using brackets from Bob at HobbyConcepts. This facilitated a clean, detailed cab interior; all electronics are in the sleeper. I fabricated a styrene sheet to close off the cab from the sleeper and covered it with felt to simulate a privacy curtain and cover wires. I currently am awaiting an order for JST micro plugs/sockets which will be installed between the MFC and cab roof lights and turn signals. This will facilitate easy separation of the cab and chassis. I wanted fog lights so swapped out the Grand Hauler front bumper for one from a King Hauler. I added two LEDs to the stock LEDs providing illumination for all light buckets...no dummies. Horns are Tamiya metal replacements... metal bullet roof light are on order. I fabricated an aluminum diamond plate for the rear of the frame and a temporary one for the front covering the coupler servo. I have not yet decided on the final layout of the fifth wheel/coupler linkage and servo. I have a motorized leg set and Tamiya flatbed on order. I intend to install wireless lights on the trailer using a second receiver as in Bob’s video. The visor is attached with machine screws. I have the painted rear fenders but went with the half fenders and mud flaps...more traditional look. Control is via a Turnigy TGY-I6 radio/receiver modified by Hobbyconcepts. I like having the shift on the three position switch. I have all MFC functions using this radio and employing high/low rates as per the video. I am investigating the use of an electronic switch, controlled from the radio, that will provide on/off capability for the vibration unit while maintaining MFC control of the unit. To display the truck I purchased two 72”x12” and a 24”x12” laminated shelves; one of the long ones was painted flat black. A stop was installed at either end...don’t want it to find it’s way to the floor. The assembled unit occupies the top of two adjoining bookcases in our home office. The truck’s on/off switch, under the driver step, is easily accessible. With the tractor placed, 52” remains for a trailer...plenty long. I will likely apply brick paper to the back wall and a loading dock/roll-up door on the right end...maybe add some gooseneck scale lights.
  10. Problem solved. I was watching a video the other night by Bob at Hobbyconcepts...he mentioned the necessity of being absolutely sure to accurately align the rear leaf springs with the frame rails. I thought I had done so but got out the calipers and checked...off...just slightly. I remembered having to click in a couple clicks of subtrim on the steering...it was starting to add up. I put the truck down on the floor and sat down where I could get a good view as it slowly moved down the long hallway in a straight line...it was crabbing slightly. I had hoped to finish the build yesterday but that had to wait until today because last night I pulled the rear wheels and control arms, loosened the nuts holding the U bolts, and realigned the rear suspension. Measured carefully...just eyeballing it got me in trouble the first time. All is good...no rub...no crabbing. Thanks for the input. Ray
  11. Thanks to all for the reply’s. I will try numbering the rear duals and moving them around to new locations. If the wheel/tire combination that is currently rubbing is swapped with another and that wheel/tire that was previously not rubbing in it’s former location but now rubs on the same fender as the problem in the photo, then it is the fender that is warped and will need correcting. If the wheel/tire that rubbed in it’s original location also rubs in the new location, then it is the wheel/tire that is the problem...probably an out of round tire. That is what I hope is the problem as tires are easily replaceable
  12. I have some tire rub on the rear of my Grand Hauler. I tried to be careful when assembling the wheels/tires and do not see a significant wobble or out of round, but still have slight rubbing. I assume the likely fix will be to alternate positions of the rear tires until I find a better fit. I like the looks of the close hugging (standard) fenders but was wondering if anyone had tried adjusting the suspension slightly...maybe with washers between the suspension and frame. The rub I am seeing is a result of running in the house, on level floors, with no load...so suspension travel is minimal. (photo shows tire rub on lower fender, left tire. (Ray)
  13. Thanks for the offer. I have a King Hauler bumper coming from Bob. I will install the fog lights in it and see if I like the look. If I decide to go back to the Grand Hauler bumper I will certainly be in touch. Ray
  14. Thanks, Nick, that is my likely direction at this point. I do like the looks of some of the aftermarket accessories including the front bumper with fog lights, but they are polished aluminum and I am not sure how that will look with the stock chromed pieces. Now, to find a stock KH bumper someone will part with.
  15. I am nearing completion of a Grand Hauler build, mostly stock. I have installed the MFC 01 and would like to use the front fog lights but the stock GH bumper lacks mounts. I would like to hear what others have done. Considering after market bumper or drilling the GH bumper and building light buckets. As an alternative, will an unmodified King Hauler bumper solve the issue? TIA
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