Dakratfink

I just got a pretty good deal on a M01 mini roller, with a Novak Rooster ESC . the esc will need a new receiver plug soldered on before I can test it. The Chassis itself will need going through , ball bearings I’m sure and a rod to connect servo to steering . it’s also got the tabs that support the from body mounts snapped off the gear case / bulkhead assembly. it look like there is no reproduction of this part and original part sets for the gear case are pricey . does anyone have any creative solutions for front body mounts ? I will submit pics of my project later.

These are impressive. I like some 1/14 drivers may pick up smoking now , however

I think some of the “virtual” life of younger people has helped at least the RTR hobby of not the collection and building side of the hobby . A lot of people who were just kids in the early days of viral YouTube caught wind of RC through videos of some yahoo launching a buggy over a house and bought RTR bashers as a result . Some states with the hobby and collect like us old curmudgeons do, and others moved to something else . I think the crawler and scale scene also attracts modelers who tend to collect more than extreme sports RTR crowd do. I don’t want to sound like a hipster or “mr retro”, but my wife and I bought a mid 60’s co recited home lately and have been mostly finishing it thrusted mid century modern kitsch. There is a certain tactile and aesthetic satisfaction to using and feeling objects that were not built with planned obsolescence in mind. I have an old skinny wheel 10 speed bicycle that needs brake pads and Still rides better than a suspended mountain bike.Likewise I shave every couple of days with a double edge safety razor and most of my cooking is done on cast iron . When I tinker on my older nitro cars , I get that same aesthetic , tactile feeling as the above things .

A. I’m still looking for a good fuel . I have heard nothing but praise for Bone’s Brew if you are in the states . Right now I’m trying to use up the last of some Traxxas top fuel 33% I got for free . Waste not want not . Once I exists that I plan to order some Bone’s 25% B. I Personally use a blend of Auto transmission fluid and Marvel Mystery. some folks swear by ATF and 3n1 oil . Both ATF and MMO have corrosion inhibitors and MMO is also commonly used as a pickling/ storage oil and it smells great. ( ATF smells terrible though ) 3. I don’t know for your specific application. But the 2 keys are plug length and temperature. Some people don’t have a proper tune and swear by “ hot plug for cold weather cold plug for summer “ . However, once you find the correct plug temp range . Stick with it, tune accordingly and it will run like a champ without chasing after the right plug for every situation.

Spooky glow in the dark spider not included

Is the NSR 500 the hang on rider or static rider version ? I have a vintage static rider one in my garage . I kind of want to get some repro decals and do it up in proper Rothman’s box art. The rest of the haul looks fun,too.

Is the NSR 500 the hang on rider or static rider version ? I have a vintage static rider one in my garage . I kind of want to get some repro decals and do it up in proper Rothman’s box art

I’m thinking I will probably piece the truck together with the spare TRX used engine, get all the kinks worked out if the chassis over time, then , when I decide to upgrade I’ll look at a Dynamite .19 .Although the links you showed above look good too.

I’m perfectly fine with shaft on road cars , both nitro and electric. For a race chassis belt is the way to go, but don’t mind a shafty for a drive way/ car park runabout.

The Traxxas 2.5 is the same displacement as their old Pro .15 but supposed to be an upgrade. I should be able to piece together a running TRX 2.5 from parts even if just to get the truck rolling under its own power. If the engine in question craps out or loses compression prematurely I may look to upgrade to the Dynamite .19. I have heard nothing but good reviews of that one . My “other “ running TMaxx is still on its stock 2.5 with Traxxas electric start. the project truck will be recoil start.

So, I mentioned this project in the Big Tyre and Wheelie Rig thread earlier as an informal poll. I want to preface this post by saying that I know there is a lot of Ill will toward the the big RTR brands out there with Tamiya enthusiasts being more or builder hobbyists than RTR fans. However , I feel the T Maxx ( and EMaxx) is a lot like the Clod in that you can build an almost complete one from aftermarket parts and most of the examples still running are “built not bought “ I already have one running T Maxx in my collection ( which has an Intesting history as I owned the same truck twice ). I also have about a 90% complete Slider chassis. In the other thread I asked if I ought to build the slider as another nitro, or convert it to E power . The consensus was since I own a running TMaxx, convert it, since I already have the experience of running a nitro T Maxx. However, I just came across a “parts” engine for $25 USD that most likely is an actual runner and just needs a carb boot and a back plate . The cost of motor , battery mounts and transmission mods to convert to Electric would cost more than just dropping a buzzing engine back in at this point. And that is not even counting the ESC and motor for the E conversion. So , I think I’m going to have a nitro resurrection project on my hands this winter .

This was similar to my experience, however, I still have an Arrma SCT I bought at a super discount this summer that I’m still running on the included RTR 7 cell Nihm simply because I’ve been too lazy to put a plug on the esc to run my lipos on it . Also, I keep Nihm with Tamiya plugs on them around to run the starter wand for my nitros.

Yeah, I really miss 4 minute heat races and 5 minute features where your buggy barely makes it across the finish line on the last lap. Lol Joking aside , when I got “back” into the hobby I was blown away by the performance of a standard Nihm pack. Once I finnaly got a lipo pack it was yet another step up. That said , I was intimidated at first of all the safety warnings about lithium batteries at first .

A 2wd tractor that pops wheelies isn’t fun enough ? Throw a cartoon bear on it !

I’m also going to pipe in on after run oil. it it very much a “yes” but also don’t soak your your engine in so much that you hydraulically lock it or could your glow plug. A few drops with the glow plug out . Cycle the engine with the starter about 10 time and wipe off the excess is my advice. And nothing against commercial RC specific after rut oils, but I have been using a blend of automatic transmission fluid , and marvel mystery oil. you can mix up about a liter of that mixture for less than the cost of a tiny medicine drop bottle of RC after run oil . Some people even use just straight Marvel Mystery Oil. Traxxas recommends WD40 as after run oil , but that sounds like advice from a RTR company that wants you to buy a new engine.