Toad16v

Great work. Thanks for running this. Hopefully my driving will improve with a few more rounds.

Quick question - as I'm still waiting for parts and am curious about how stuff works, can anyone tell me how it works when you bind multiple receivers and have several saved models on the flysky i6? Do the saved models basically just provide settings to the controller, regardless of the receiver connected? If I had two models turned on with bound receivers, would both operate when I mashed the controls? Or do I need to bind each receiver when I'm in the settings for each model?

The esc did the same again today, then went weird with forward and reverse after resetting it. Think it's borked, will wang another hobbywing 1060 in instead.

My Terra Scorcher with a Carson Cup Machine motor came out even with my Dark Impact with Sport tuned motor. Better tyres on the Dark Impact may have changed things a little, but I think it was too quick in a way, was difficult to get the speed down enough to get the turns. Might try the centre one way in the Dark Impact to see if the sharp cornering can be improved. I guess the Terra Scorcher was a pretty solid design back in the day, and modern, cheaper designs might struggle to match it?

Answered my own question. It seems it had slipped into brushless mode. I went through the setup to change it to brushed and all is well again. Except someone has parked on my postal racing course.

Ran my Terra Scorcher last night with no issues, picked it up tonight and while I do have steering, there is no power to the motor. The esc is flashing quickly green and red, maybe orange too, but it's hard to tell. I've tried to run through the setup again, but it just goes back to flashing quickly once I release the button. Anyone got any advice, or is it basically toast?

Yeah. I have wondered about that. The kit I bought turns out not to fit at all, although I have found pins that fit correctly. I did order another kit and will see what that is like.

Have you checked one of the far East suppliers? They often can get the damper sets to you for less than the UK prices.

I couldn't be sure that the slipper was slipping so marked the aluminium plate and the outer fibre disk with a marker pen so I could see the marks move in relation to each other. I'm only running a sport tuned motor so don't think there is as significant a risk to the diffs as if I had lipos and a brushless setup.

Had another two goes tonight, this time with my terra scorcher. Got about a 10% improvement. Not sure if it is the car/setup/tyres, familiarity with the track or I was just less rubbish. Need to try it again with my hornet now.

I'm interested in what other methods people use for holding shock shafts while tightening the ends on apart from the proper pliers. I was using some old tractor inner tube wrapped around the shaft and pliers, but recently wrapped the shaft in an elastic band and gripped that with pliers. Even with the proper pliers metal on metal seems harsh.

I bought the flysky fs-i6, intending to use it on my newest model and retrofit the recievers onto other cars once working. I bought a self centre kit from ebay but it arrived with no pins, the seller wasn't very helpful, I've ordered another but I don't hold out much hope. I've also ordered some 2x6mm dowels which I hope would fit, although I could probably have cut some axle pins down in hindsight. I bought a pair of fs-a3 receivers which foxed me initially before I realised that they bind to the transmitter slightly differently than I expected - slow flashing not solid led.

Just gave this a go in the street as my first ever attempt with my mildly hopped up dark impact. Was surprised at; A. How rubbish I was. B. How difficult it was (see A) C. How little speed I could build up due to the tight turns. D. How warm the motor and rear gearbox got E. That the df03 heat sink set actually does something and isn't just a shiny blue addition. F. That I'm rubbish at keeping count and driving. Going to build a tt01e at the end of the month. If future courses are like this I'll definitely be gearing it for acceleration rather than speed. Really fun, thanks for arranging/designing/running this. I'll be practicing a bit with my cars this week with the hope of getting better.

As I already have a couple of Carson transmitters/recievers, could I just get this to replace the multiple transmitters and bind to my existing recievers? https://www.timetunnelmodels.com/live/catalog/carson-c500085-reflex-stick-24ghz-channel-radio-channel-stick-toggle-switches-with-receiver-p-63151.html I've not seen them mentioned much.

Just re-bumping this thread as I'm keen on getting a better transmitter and I love sticks, it seems that the flysky unit is the most reccomended for an affordable unit, and it seems that converting it to a car friendly spec is fairly simple, but are the recievers easy and cheap enough to come by?

Thank you!

https://www.timetunnelmodels.com/live/catalog/tamiya-19808059-9808059-front-diff-join-rmj1-p-16268.html These I believe.

Evening, I'm using my Terra Scorcher with the kit cvas, springs and until now pre load collars. I understand that changing or uprating the suspension isn't straightforward due to the front shock length, and also I keep spending all my money on the Dark Impact so I wanted to make the best of what I've got. The kit includes 3mm and 6mm collars for the front suspension and 4mm and 8mm collars for the rear. I initially built it with the longer collars for stiffer suspension, but swapped to the shorter ones and found I had increased traction while wafting about on the road outside my house. The downside of the shorter collars is that the back end slaps the tarmac when jumping off of kerbs, and I'm not that keen on the rate at which the gearbox is being eaten. I did refit the longer collars, but then reread I had a number of spares in the Dark Impact kit, and with the uprated suspension I've fitted to that, so I've used 4mm collars on the front and a 2mm collar with the existing 4mm collar on the rear to try to get a balance between grip and keeping the ******* end up a bit. Hopefully when I get a chance to test it, this will be a suitable compromise, but I'd be interested to hear what others have done or tried with their cars. Is there a better option than the kit damper oil? I have found these dampers leak a little and the rears probably need stripping, checking and topping up. Here is the rear at the moment - propped up off the ground.

Great work. I've really enjoyed mine. I made up two aluminium braces to join the suspension pins across the front of both gearboxes after snapping the rear gearbox on its first run put. 42mm centres and 3mm pins I think. I have the slipper clutch, adjustable arms and the df03/tt02b aluminium shocks which are all nice but not necessary for mine as I only have the tamiya sport tuned motor. I did buy a spare set of the metal diff out drives to fit to the rear and carbide balls for both diffs which I think is required. I ran my diffs in a bit with an electric drill and check the tension by spinning the wheels by hand after each battery pack and tighten accordingly.

Had a little time this evening so shimmed the Terra Scorcher axles with 0.3mm shims, still a bit of flop, but significantly less than there was. Think I might get some 3mm i/d shims and work around the suspension to try to make it a little less flappy. Might charge it up and have a little waft around with it again tomorrow. Anyone successfully stopped the wing rubbing the body? The shell doesn't fit that well with the driver/dust cover on but I don't want to remove it.

I took the terra scorcher put and whizzed it around the street yesterday in between the rugby on the telly, fitted a 14t pinion and had another go, then this morning I flipped the B8 part to get some rear toe in and fitted it with the suspension pin set I have had knocking around for about a year rather than make the fresh holes sad with the screw pivots. Had another hoon around in the street and I'm not sure it's improved cornering much, but it was nice to have a fiddle. Went in the loft and found the thicker pre load collars as I noticed it bottoming out when hopping off of kerbs etc. Might need to rebuild the rear shocks rather than stiffening the springs but it'll be interesting to see how it goes now. Off to feed cows and cut up a tree this afternoon.

After the initial run out and snapping of plastic - I'm going to blame the cold weather as I didn't ram it into anything memorable, I rebuilt the gearbox as standard, ran it for a little bit and then put the slipper clutch in. I watched videos, checked out forum posts and scoured bits of the Internet for advice, and hopefully got it right. I left the kit motor pinion in for the time being as about a 5% drop in gearing sounded like a good first step. I've set the slipper so that holding the pinion and one wheel solidly and rotating the other rear wheel the slipper clutch slips and not the rear diff - although I know I need to keep on top of the diffs. Holding the car on the carpet in the living room and putting some power on, neither the ball diffs or the slipper slipped before the wheels span, I figured this wasn't a terrible position to be in with just a sport tuned motor. I also got away without my girlfriend noticing what I was up to... I decided against fitting the centre one way for the time being, I quite like being able to brake solidly, and it's something I might find useful to cash in if I keep snapping other bits. The car is currently looking like this, with some Carson wheels and tyres I picked up, and 7mm front hexes so they don't rub on the steering arm. I thought I'd see how it looked with white rims, think I'll pick up some proper white df03 rims and fit some schumacher tyres somewhere down the line. The tub behind it is a load of chilli seedlings we planted a week or so back.

Having ordered even more parts, upgrades and general unnecessary gubbins tonight I've tried to remove some of the slop in the axles with a set if the tamiya 5mm shims. I've ended up with a 0.1mm shim in both rear and one front axle and a 0.2mm shim in the other front axle after some trial fits and waggling of the wheels. Not having done this on this sort of scale before, does this sound reasonable? I don't want to add too much load to the wheel bearings, but hated the extra floppyness present. I've also put a shim between parts p1 and c3 in the servo saver as it was also quite floppy as standard. I'm not 100% sure this is the best plan, but I don't think it'll stop the servo saver from working, but might make it more obvious that my driving skills are somewhat lacking rather than there being play within important bits of the car.

Have you set up the throttle points on the esc? https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/blog/article/tamiya-electronic-speed-controller-setup/

I'm slightly concerned that mine is exhibiting this behaviour. Dark impact, sport tuned motor, nimh battery fwiw. I noticed on the first proper run it went a bit slow before going back to normal, and this afternoon while messing about with some new tyres in on the patio/lawn it kept dropping to half speed. I can't rule out a low battery but I'm pretty sure I haven't run it much since charging it. I guess the best thing to do will be make sure its charged right up and give it a good hoon around and see if it starts playing up. These escs seem to have a great reputation, which is why I got one, I'd really like to stick with them as they seem a lot less hassle than the tble2 I've got in my other cars.