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About esmuz

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    Barcelona, Spain

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  1. Thanks! I was about to get the blockade for the rears, now that you mention them I think I'll do it. The cut staggers are supposed to be for carpet, but nice to know that seem to work pretty well.
  2. I am looking for recommendations on tires for my DT-03. I use it in a park, sand is quite soft, dusty and slippery and the square spike tires provided with the kit are totally useless, it's like driving on ice. I've been recommended to use Schumacher's Block tires both front and rear , which are 2" but will fit the 2.2"ish star rims provided with the kit. These tires look great, old style, and I'm pretty sure the recommendation is good, but these are a bit hard to find in my country and I am not whiling to pay high shipping costs.. Any other recommendations for this kind of terrain and 2WD? I am super confused, there are so many kinds of patterns and spikes.. Thanks!
  3. Hi, any suggestion for tires to be used on Street? No competition, just for bash... I am considering the Dual block Tires K ,but I am not sure they will fit the DT-03 rims.. The specs say 62/35 but the square spiked tires that came with the DT-03 are 62/29, do I need a wider rear rim? Any other affordable tires I can use on my DT-03 rear rims? Thanks!
  4. Hmm it's an option, but I was looking for a more racing look. Thanks anyway!
  5. Hi, sorry in advance because I don't really know where to post this, it's for a build but not a Tamiya car, but using Tamiya parts.. The story: I got a WPL D12 Suzuki Carry truck, probably most of you heard about it, super cheap, fully proportional, nice looking cool thing for 30$. Okay it's a toy, but it looks great and is fun to use at home with your kids. Of course I had to improve it, at least visually, and everybody knows that nothing better than a pair of good wheels to make anything look good. This is one of the best examples I found ( no idea which rims are.. the tires are Tamiya drifting ones ) I was trying to find alternatives to change the original ones, but keeping the sense of scale.. As this is a Japanese Key Car, wheels are smaller than regular cars, so any 1/10 touring car wheels tend to look too big and end up making the truck look stupid. In the search for the wheels I found that most people are using the ones included with the Swift and Mini Tamiya M-chassis models, but I personally don't like the looks and are quite hard to find these days.. Alternatives are 3D printed drift wheels, but I am not into drifting. Looking for alternative solutions, I started thinking on using wheels of smaller scales, like Tamtechs, or QD series.. stuff that are 1/12 or 1/14. And came up with these rare Option part for QD buggies called QD Slick F&R 1/10 TA43003 , a set of complete wheels to fit QD buggies. I think these wheels look amazing, at the beginning I thought these where F1 wheels, and I guess these might share some parts with F1 1/10 cars from the past.. but I found were made for these small QQ Buggies. The wheels seemed to be perfect because the rear wheels hex is actually 6mm very close to the 5mm of the D12, so with a minor .5mm layer the wheels might work perfectly without the need of a 5mm to 12mm hex. Rear wheel instructions: I couldn't find much info about them, and made my guessing about the size.. I read on a French forum that were just 58mm diameter.. The D12 original wheels are 55mm so, I thought it might work visually. I found a guy here in Spain who had batch of 4 sets and I got them 4 for a reasonable price.. I had to try This is 1 of the 4 sets, gorgeous right? The problem, the wheels are actually pretty big!! I never thought a 1/14 slick might be so big.. It's clear these wheels were made to look comical and not realistic. The front ones are 63mm in external diameter, and the rear ones, are 68mm!!! Also the width of the tires is a massive 33mm for the fronts and 46mm for rears. This is how the truck looks with front and rear wheels.. This one is using just the front ones ( a bit better? ) I know it looks cool haha.. and might end up keeping the wheels like this, but nowadays it is not what I was looking for. So, THE QUESTION: Both front and rear rims are 42mm (1.6") diameter, the front ones are 30mm wide the rear ones are 41mm. I asume the rear ones are unusable for this project, but maybe I can find some thinner slicks to fit the front 42mm rims and keep the total wheel size around the 55mm of the original wheels. Do you guys know about any tire I might be able to fit these front rims??? Thanks!! PS: Got two more sets I might want to sell if anyone is interested for anything. Any comments just about the truck itself, the looks or whatever is also welcome. Front wheels scheme. Washers, tube, nuts and wrench are included!!
  6. Thanks! And these actually look pretty nice too..
  7. Yeah sorry, your guys are right, it's the turbo optima ones.. 50mm 2". But I found the hot shot II ones are same size too.. Not sure about width though.
  8. Hi guys, I am looking for something not too expensive to replace some old Kyosho OT-66 which I think are 1.9" or maybe 2" I guess the new sand super ones used with the Optimas and Javelins Re-res should fit, but any other Tamiya alternative that might do the job for a bit less money? Thank you!
  9. Hey! Does anybody know where I could find nice sets of numbers for my custom decorations a part of getting a decal set from a specific model and just use the numbers... I know I could print them but it's too complicated / expensive and don't have decent a printer at home. I am looking for retro-ish stuff, but any set might be good. Thanks!
  10. esmuz

    Pinion gear mystery

    Oh, yes I knew the pitch was different, I just mentioned it because it's a 17T and it doesn't fit.. So I was afraid a 16T didn't fit either.. I'll check the size before I buy it. Thanks for all the info. I hope I can make it. I was also considering using a couple of 0.5 mm aluminium 1X1 cm plates around the Mesh adjusting bolt hole , so it doesn't get deformed by the small washer.. in other words, a super washer before the washer Thank you guys for so much inputs.
  11. esmuz

    Pinion gear mystery

    Thanks for the info, yes I agree as the Mesh adjusting system is so shabby in this model, it makes all sense that the pinion had some slope when I was trying to get it tight.. Probably when the spur started to degrade I had to force it even more. I already got the new spur as part of a gears bag, so I'll get a 32dp steel 16T pinion ( I have a 17T pinion from my Tamiya DT-03 and it is too big to pass through the pinion hole in the gearbox, so I hope a 16T wil do or I'll have to make the hole bigger ) also the ball bearings. This will be the last chance for this old lady, I spent too much time and money on it and as said although it's a pretty car it will always be a mediocre design with a terrible steering system. But hey it was my first car! Thank you guys.
  12. esmuz

    Pinion gear mystery

    Great advices! I wish I had so much experience. It is very weird, the shafts are perfect, no worn, no marks, but when inserted into the bushings, it's tight, it's like the bushings became smaller ( sorry for my english ). I am not an expert at all, but I suppose the shafts should rotate inside the bushings right? As they don't roll at all, it's the gears that roll and that's why I added some shock oil to make it run smoother. I'll gear her up ! And regards difficulty for adjusting Mesh, it's not a Rocky ( I wish it was ) it's a Shadow 4WD an entry level model very inspired by the Tamiya Boomerang ( same defects ) The gearbox walls are made of a quite soft black plastic, it's so soft or badly designed, that when you put a bit of strength, you can see how it bends. In any case thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, I really appreciate it.
  13. esmuz

    Pinion gear mystery

    Yeah! I Know.. bearings will improve it a lot you are totally right! That's the thing with old cars.. specially entry level ones like this, every time you fix something you have to spend a lot for pieces and after you fix it something new gets broken hahaha... Same with real cars actually. In any case, I'll think about it, because whatever I do, nothing will improve the absurd steering system of this car.. I should probably get a DT-03 for my niece and stop spending money!
  14. esmuz

    Pinion gear mystery

    Thank you, actually there is a hole to see the mesh but the system is not exactly precise, it's very close or very loose. So you think I should go for the 16T? I am actually not use it fits the hole.. maybe in this chart (in swedish) the black dot means "not recommendedmended"? In regards to grease, I think I over greased it you are totally right.. The nylon bearings are in really bad shape so I tried to lubricate the shafts a bit too with shock oil.. Probably a bad decision. This car is a total ruin it was never a good design and it will never be.. a pity because I find it quite nice looking.
  15. esmuz

    Pinion gear mystery

    Hi, it's me again with the **** Shadow 4WD. After my niece used it for a few times, I noticed the spur gear, is almost totally worn out. Initially I thought it could have been because the system to adjust the distance between the pinion and the spur is really weak in this model, and a couple of times I could hear how it got loose and the pinion started to "eat" the spur.. You know this scary sound right? WelI, I found a spare spur in ebay, which cost me a finger... (and I hope it lasts more that the original one or the car will end up in a shelf for ever).. but checking the original instructions I found a chart in which it recommends using a 16T pinion for the Le Mans stock 05 motor.. I was shocked because the pinion in my motor is a 13T one made of aluminum I think it's an OT-50, which also seems to be quite worn out. Do you guys think this might have been the reason why the spur was worn out? A too small pinion for this engine's torque? I don't remember ever buying a pinion for this car, so it's very weird it came with a 13T and the maker recommends an 16T. I want to make sure the new spur gear lasts as much as possible, do you think I should get the 16T? Should I go for the original OT-52 or can I get something newer, steel made with the same 32 pitch? Thanks!
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