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About R6cowboy

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  1. Got me beat, I'm at 5. Can't wait to order mine.
  2. Good deal and thank you for your perseverance on getting this done Busajedi. Most of last year I wasn't able to do much with my r/c stuff and didn't get back to making a new FXT body mold, but I'm still interested in giving it a try simply for the experience. I also need to make bodies for my Kyosho Pro-XRT which I haven't found anyone who makes those either.
  3. Busajedi, I remember reading the thread on rcuniverse when you made your mold. Work has been super busy but hope to get back to this soon.
  4. Took three entire 4 lb tubs of plaster of paris to fill the body. Have to go to the hardware store for more to fill in small voids before sanding and fine tuning. While I'm at, I'm getting four more tubs to make another mold. I learned some tips from this first go at it. I'll still try to make this one as good as I can, but just in case it doesn't turn out to my expectations, the second mold will certainly turn out better than this one. This one, I only had two tubs of P.O.P. which I thought would be plenty, until it wasn't. Then I added another tub after the first two hardened over a day, that's the line you see about 1/2" or so from the bottom. I also learned a better way to pour the plaster of paris so tiny pockets of air don't get trapped and create those small voids. I have a handful of large polycarbonate sheets waiting to become bodies.
  5. Finally getting around to making the FXT body. Got some light filling and sanding to do on the rough casting, but turned out pretty decent.
  6. This motor mount came off a Futaba FXT but was also used on the Futaba FX10 and many different Tamiya R/C's I believe. I've been searching for months trying to find one. Anyone know if these can be found anywhere? Thanks
  7. Regarding the aluminum motor mount plate that came with the FXT, which is sandwiched between trans and motor. Are those replaceable or can be found anywhere? One of my FXT's is missing it.
  8. Thanks fellas. Yeah, I'm over there on RC10Talk as well, great group of regulars over there for sure. The FXT tub is anodized aluminum, but not sure how close it is to the Associated tub structurally wise. Of course these tubs aren't reman'd and can't be replaced, why I'm very hesitant to try to powder coat because if it gets warped, I'm screwed. As far as painting it goes, is it much more ideal to completely remove the old anodize before applying etch primer, paint and clear? Or is just a thorough wet sanding of the old anodize ideal before applying etch primer? I'm told an easy way to remove the old anodize is to soak the tub for a few minutes with heavy duty Easy-Off oven cleaner then scrub off.
  9. Restoring a couple old Futaba FXT stadium trucks. Just got one completely disassembled and need to refinish the chassis that's scratched up pretty bad. Please correct me if I'm wrong, is the factory chassis originally anodized aluminum..?? This is the first time dealing with something like this, not sure which direction to go. Can these chassis' be powder coated? If so, what's the process of removing the old original coating/anodize? I'm afraid the heating process of powder coating would warp the chassis, which is only 1.5mm or 1/16" thick. Or do I just prep the chassis and repaint it with high quality spray paint? Do people spray these with automotive body paint? The truck will be ran again (not real hard though) once I'm done so I would like the chassis coating to be as durable as possible. Or, are there companies that deal with this kind of stuff that you send your RC chassis to and they refinish it for you? This is all new to me, so all options are appreciated. Below is pics of the top and bottom of chassis. Thanks for any help.
  10. Finally started on mine. Completely disassembled one truck yesterday. Bottom of the pans are scratched up pretty good on both trucks and need to be repainted. My brother does powder-coating at his shop, it would be cool to go that route but afraid it'll warp since the pan is only 1.5mm or 1/16" thick (16 gauge). What do people use to repaint these metal RC chassis'? Just enamel spray like Testors? Hobgoblin, holy smokes what planet did you score diff parts from?
  11. Thanks 87lc2. Also, I'd prefer the HW 4000kv motor in lieu of their 3300kv because I already have a Reedy SC600 ESC & Reedy 3300kv brushless sensorless motor combo that came in my RC10T4.3 rtr. Idk how much of an apples-to-apples comparison the Hobbywing vs Reedy 3300 motors are, but I'd like having the different kv rating variety.
  12. Brushed isn't necessary for my application as it won't be used for racing, so I'm not partial to either. After seeing your post Kev, I now notice the Quicrun brushless motor has been discontinued. Thanks for pointing that out. So I'm leaning toward the EZrun MAX10 ESC, w/ 3652 G2 4000kV motor combo ($101). Originally I was looking at the Castle Sidewinder 4 sensorless ESC, w/ 1406 4600kV motor combo ($130). But it seems like many folks prefer Hobbywing over Castle, even without considering the slight price difference. I don't have experience with either.
  13. Trying to choose a Hobbywing ESC & motor combo for 1/10 off-road 4x4 buggy and/or 2wd stadium truck. Will not be used for racing. Is there any reasoning to pick the EZrun over the Quicrun, or vice versa? Is one better than the other? I've tried searching this with not much luck.
  14. Just picked up my CAT XLS a couple weekends ago at the local HobbyTown. One thing I knew ahead of time to get for sure is a hex head screw kit.
  15. The local Home Depot has this gem in stock, Weller WLC200, 80 watt unit at $62. As basic as it gets. From what I'm seeing Weller, at least the WE1010NA and this WLC200, doesn't have much better reviews (percentage wise) than a lot of the "cheaper" stuff. The Hakko FX888d seems to be a better quality unit overall, but (like the Weller WE1010NA) at around double the price of a lot of the "cheaper" soldering stations. Looks like no matter which unit ya go with, they all have a small percentage of "duds" from the factory.
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