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FuzzyFlynn

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About FuzzyFlynn

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  1. Black. The silver does not match the slightly yellowish tint of the body‘s chrome, IMHO. At least that is what it looks like to me on the photo.
  2. After having a closer look at the TA-08 manual, I suspect my initial guess was wrong. I would expect the classic 26mm rims to rub at the marked location:
  3. I do not know. Quite the opposite, I am looking for an answer. :-) For the chassis where the 26mm do not fit, it is because they rub on the outer edges of the lower front arms. More caster makes it worse. Based on pictures, TA-08 and TC-01 do not have these protruding edges on the lower arms due to the ball-mounted design. But 26mm rims could still rub somewhere else. If there are any TA-08 or TC-01 owners willing to check, that would be great!
  4. You can add XV-01(except for XV-01TC) and XV-02 to the 26mm list. I think the plain TA-05 should work too as I think it uses the same suspension as the TA-04, but I am not sure. The TA-05ver.II definitely does not work anymore with 26mm rims. What I would be particularly interested in is the TA-08 chassis. Based on pictures, I see a chance that 26mm rims might work but I could not find any definitive info. As the TC-01 uses a similar suspension, there might be chance for that chassis as well. See also my other thread that did not get any answers so far:
  5. Do standard 26mm Tamiya rims fit on the TA-08's suspension? I was thinking about chassis options for running scale bodies with fitting 26mm Tamiya rims. All chassis with the more recent TRF-based suspension arms have the issue that the reinforcement ribs on the 26mm rims rub on the front lower arms on full steering (yes, you can dremel the ribs away or use >=6.5mm hexes but that's another topic). Anyway, based on photos, the TA-08 arms look like they might not have the same issue. Does anybody here have a TA-08 and already tried this?
  6. For me they work well. However, they behave differently than nuts with nylon stoppers. Once the serrations do not bite anymore, they come off easily. For changing tires, this is a benefit. On the other hand they also come off easily while running if they were not tightened properly (of course not overtightened but the serrations have to bite properly into the rims). The nylon stoppers are much more forgiving.
  7. If you want to try even thicker hexes (or spacers), look for serrated nuts instead of ones with nylon stoppers. The serrated ones are usually shorter and need less axle length.
  8. Gorgeous Lancia! What windscreen wipers did you use? I see they have the proper orientation for a car with steering wheel on the left, so they are not from the Tamiya touring car accessories, right?
  9. Lovely body, lovely chassis!
  10. Welcome to Tamiyaclub. One thing to check: With this type of suspension, the rather large reinforcement struts in Tamiya 26mm rims typically touch the lower suspension arms at the front at full steering lock and the wheels will not turn properly. Wheel hub spacers might help, but then your track might be too wide for your desired body shell.
  11. Using a thread forming tap is nice but it also works fine without from my experience. +1 for front CVDs being more important than upgraded pulleys. With the front CVDs, you can omit the limiter screws and get more steering angle. Front CVDs and high-torque servo saver would be my priority upgrades. But starting out with a plain kit car and upgrading step by step, based on your needs is perfectly feasible if you ask me.
  12. +1 for XV-01. Battery: As it is the plugs and cable where you typically run out of space, I found banana plug lipo packs (i.e. the ones without cables) to work best in the XV-01 battery compartment.
  13. As far as I know, Carson is a brand of Tamiya's German distributor SIMBA-DICKIE-Vertriebs-GmbH. It is not a Tamiya brand. From my experience, their products are generally on the cheaper end of the spectrum, regarding both price and quality.
  14. They *are* crafty at popping out the lenses but this is not what they do for cleaning. :-)
  15. The cleaner was just standard dish washing cleaner. So my guess is the ultrasonic was the culprit here. On the other hand, I know about first-hand experience from optician shops where they routinely use ultrasonic cleaners for cleaning glasses and never saw issues. Neither with metal frames, nor with coatings on the glass. Anyway, my lesson is that these things are powerful and I now think twice before I put things in there. :-)
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