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About FuzzyFlynn

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  1. Gorgeous Lancia! What windscreen wipers did you use? I see they have the proper orientation for a car with steering wheel on the left, so they are not from the Tamiya touring car accessories, right?
  2. Lovely body, lovely chassis!
  3. Welcome to Tamiyaclub. One thing to check: With this type of suspension, the rather large reinforcement struts in Tamiya 26mm rims typically touch the lower suspension arms at the front at full steering lock and the wheels will not turn properly. Wheel hub spacers might help, but then your track might be too wide for your desired body shell.
  4. Using a thread forming tap is nice but it also works fine without from my experience. +1 for front CVDs being more important than upgraded pulleys. With the front CVDs, you can omit the limiter screws and get more steering angle. Front CVDs and high-torque servo saver would be my priority upgrades. But starting out with a plain kit car and upgrading step by step, based on your needs is perfectly feasible if you ask me.
  5. +1 for XV-01. Battery: As it is the plugs and cable where you typically run out of space, I found banana plug lipo packs (i.e. the ones without cables) to work best in the XV-01 battery compartment.
  6. As far as I know, Carson is a brand of Tamiya's German distributor SIMBA-DICKIE-Vertriebs-GmbH. It is not a Tamiya brand. From my experience, their products are generally on the cheaper end of the spectrum, regarding both price and quality.
  7. They *are* crafty at popping out the lenses but this is not what they do for cleaning. :-)
  8. The cleaner was just standard dish washing cleaner. So my guess is the ultrasonic was the culprit here. On the other hand, I know about first-hand experience from optician shops where they routinely use ultrasonic cleaners for cleaning glasses and never saw issues. Neither with metal frames, nor with coatings on the glass. Anyway, my lesson is that these things are powerful and I now think twice before I put things in there. :-)
  9. I have one. I use it for RC. I am generally happy with its cleaning capabilities but I do not use it for metal parts anymore since it stripped the coating off some metal parts (dog bones, diff outdrives, damper springs). Since then I use it for plastic parts only.
  10. According to my notes, my M-07 (kit, no weight-relevant hop-ups, Tamiya Torque-Tuned motor, Hobbywing 1060 ESC, Savöx 1252 servo, Suzuki Swift body) weighs 1027g with body, without battery. So with a standard battery, you should end up slightly above the limit with a stock M-07. My guess would be the M-08 is similar.
  11. I would stick to using oil in the diffs. As you mentioned, it is easier to change. And you can exactly reproduce a setting. I initially had leak issues (kit #900 oil, black kit o-rings, no Green Slime or similar). After re-building, the they are gone. Softest oil is #2000 (rear). I also switched to the red o-rings and used Green Slime. Unclear what measure contributed what, but the issue is gone even with still rather soft #2000 oil.
  12. Sorry for the off-topic nitpicking but shouldn't that be 1,500 kg as weight scales cubic? For weight comparison you would have line up ten 1:10 cars behind each other, ten of these lines next to each other and stack the whole bunch of cars ten times above each other, I think. For the sake of also contributing something on-topic: I did not experience 1) and 2) so far with a 3200KV sensorless brushless motor, so no hints here. Regarding 3) I would start with CVDs to get more steering angle (you can remove the limiter screw with CVD). Next, I would probably look into a set of anti-roll bars. I find them useful on my non-long-damper XV-01 when running with softer springs (kit or softer) and higher ride height (i.e. kit or higher). My experience is on dirty and rough tarmac. So depending on your surface, results might be completely different. For 4), the kit #900 oil is soft. I guess this is mostly a cost-saving measure by Tamiya to get away with just one oil for both dampers and diffs. I currently run my diffs with #5000 front and #2000 in the back. I will probably try something harder next time I touch the diffs (remember I am talking about dirty tarmac surfaces here, no real off-road).
  13. One more thing: Watch out when you go shopping for CVD. TA-05 and TA-05 ver.II use different axles.
  14. My starting points would be: CVD at least for the front axle Ball bearings for the steering and the suspension rocker arms For outdoors, I would also consider dust seals for the ball diff (53970). If you want to improve the dampers, a good and cheap way is to put TRF seals in the kit CVA dampers. For the track, I would put my money into different spring rates before upgrading the dampers.
  15. I measured mine a while ago. I put them on kitchen scale and compressed them by 10mm using a drill rig. The values below are the scale readings at 10mm compression. 54465: Soft 1100g Medium 1350g Hard 1600g XV-01 kit springs (9805826): 1200g So, both the medium and hard springs are stiffer than the kit springs. For tarmac use I found these springs a bit long, though (28mm). There is not much room for lowering the ride height. I ended up using 26mm springs for tarmac (9805699) for a while because of that. I measured their spring rate at 2800g/10mm. This is pretty stiff. I recently switched to TRF dampers and mounted the springs that come with them (medium from 47447, I think) but did not yet have time to test them. I also found the anti-roll bars helpful on tarmac. Particularly, if you do not want or cannot lower the ride height much.
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