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FuzzyFlynn

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About FuzzyFlynn

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  1. If anybody needs additional confidence: Yesterday I had a chance to test my modded ESC. I am using a 24 kOhm. At cutoff, the lipo alarm was showing 6.71 V. More than expected. I still have to investigate what exactly is going on here but generally the mod is working.
  2. Hey @Nicadraus, I see you are using a Sanwa receiver with integrated antenna. Does it work properly inside the XV-01 electronics box? No reception issues with the signal being blocked by the box or nearby battery? By the way, I ordered TPRC bumper brace. I like it. Thanks for the hint! :-)
  3. Yes, I modified my kit ESC that way a couple of days ago. I did not yet have a chance to drive it into the cutoff yet, so I do not yet know how successful I was. But it is still running, so at least I have not bricked it. My soldering skills are fairly basic. The main challenge was soldering the wire to the small spot on the PCB next to the voltage divider resistors.
  4. My experience with alternatives is limited, so please do not treat this as a recommendation but just as a data point: I am using the mentioned Hobbywing combo EzRun Max10 ESC with EzRun 3652SL 3300KV motor (4-pole, sensorless). I am happy with this combo and would buy it again for my XV-01. The ESC fits into the XV-01 electronics box (with mounted fan). I had to solder extensions for the motor cables. The motor has fixed cables with 3.5mm plugs, no solder contacts. The fixed cables end where the servo is mounted. Cogging is not an issue at all with this motor for me. It has plenty of power. I am using it with a rather small 23T pinion. Using the throttle to put the car into a controlled power slide is possible even at medium speeds. Top speed is still more than sufficient for my taste. For programming the ESC, there is an additional button next to the power switch. No addtional programming card or USB connector required.
  5. Why? Are you worried about the screws and the extra step it takes to get to the battery? Yes, it is an extra step. The good news is the screws go into replaceable screw nuts with nylon stop ring. So at least for a solution with a screw-fixed battery door it is as good as it gets IMHO. Or do you worry about the need to stuff battery, cables, and plugs into the tight battery bay? The latter is not really an issue IMHO if you are using a battery without cable and angled plugs. With this setup, the plugs require virtually not space at all and the cables are rather short and fit easily into the remaining space in the battery bay. Ask me for photos if you still need to be convinced. ;-)
  6. The truck suspension arms (58552, grey color) are not the carbon reinforced variant (54444). As far as I know the truck arms are intentionally even more flexible than the standard arms (51505) but I have not seen the truck arms in person so I cannot tell for sure.
  7. Regarding batteries, for me the best solution is to use Lipos without cable and angled gold/banana plugs. The chassis has bulges on the top of the battery case to leave room for the plugs. It eliminates the need to find room for lots of cable with bulky plugs in the battery bay.
  8. If you want to learn about Tamiya suspension blocks, go here: https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html
  9. I read somewhere that FF-03 aluminum spur gear holder 54234 fits the XV-01. So I assume the opposite direction should work as well. The XV-01 spur gear holder is available as a carbon reinforced part (J/JJ parts 54445). It is not aluminum but still significantly stronger than the stock XV-01 part and probably also stronger than the stock FF-03 part.
  10. Unfortunately, the XV-01 motor plate is different and is missing holes for mounting the FF-03 body posts. Actually, the whole gear box is different. It is FF-04 that is sharing parts with XV-01. :-(
  11. XV-01, XV-01T, and XV-01 Long Damper come with dog bones and their manuals demand the limiter screws to be mounted. The XV-01 Pro variant comes with CVD out of the box. Accordingly, its manual does not list the limiter screws. So, when you upgrade to CVD at the front, you can safely remove them and enjoy the increased maximum steering angle. :-)
  12. Alternative guess: If you have the long ball ends mounted on the dampers, the ball ends on the steering rods might be blocked by the chassis. But your description that it gets unlocked by applying throttle does not quite match this theory. Compressing the suspension should be what is required for unlocking then. The vibrations from the spinning wheels might be sufficient though.
  13. You are using dogbones, no CVD? Do you have the steering angle limiter screws (the BB2 screws going into parts D1/D2 in step 14 of the XV-01T manual) installed? If not, I guess the dogbones might be starting to fall out of the cups and locking the steering. If you apply throttle, I guess the spinning axle might make them slide back into the cup.
  14. Those CF parts look nice. Your friend ordered them? Meaning he ordered them to be custom-made or are these mass-produced items you can order in a shop? Who makes them and where can you order them?
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