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Mechanic AH

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About Mechanic AH

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  1. @Fabia130vRS and @Carmine A thanks guys! I guess I'll keep looking. By the way, I'm assuming the M-02 can house newer ESCs? Like a simple Hobbywing Quicrun 1060?
  2. First of all, I apologize for the newbie questions (I don't have much Tamiya RC experience). I was looking up some older Tamiya chassis (from the '90s?) and an M-02 and TL-01 got me curious. I'm aware there are newer/updated chassis that are designed better/can perform better. However, there are some bodies/shells that I like from before and if it's possible or worth it, try to keep it original—instead of just getting the body and fitting it onto a newer chassis. And from what I see, some bodies/shells can't be bought anymore unless I buy an actual kit. But maybe it's not worth the hassle? So here are some of my questions: - What do you like about these two chassis? - Are they still worth considering today? Or are they somewhat irrelevant chassis in the Tamiya spectrum? - Are used M-02/TL-01 worth considering or will I struggle hunting for parts (scarcity and price)? - Are there big issues with these two chassis? For example, I read somewhere that the M-02 has some fragile parts that can easily break. So one concern there would be finding spare parts. - If I don't upgrade the parts, is it recommended to just keep the motor stock, etc.? - And are they worth what sellers are asking for? I see some of them are kinda pricey. Any experience, thoughts, advice would be truly appreciated. Thanks!
  3. Thanks! Cool and I don't mind at all and I hope it was helpful (but I'm sure I missed some proper paint/prep technique). I learned a lot from forums, videos, and people like here at Tamiya Club and it's nice to be able to share ideas and get inspiration from--nothing is original anyway. Hope to see your take on it one day . Oh, and how did you melt the heads!?
  4. @Fabia130vRS Thanks! It's a bit of an older camera (7 years old), a Panasonic GH4. There are many cooler new cameras out now ;).
  5. Just finished a driver using Tamiya parts for a Kyosho Javelin build I've been working on. I didn't like the supplied driver. This is sort of my first full driver/scale model work and I realized I like working on it. I also wanted to make the Tamiya man look a bit younger so I re-worked the face just a little bit (he's on the left side). I always thought he looked a bit tired. I used racing white Tamiya TS spray for the helmet and acrylic paints for the rest, and some customization. Now I wish I have an airbrush and a place for it.
  6. I enjoyed really reading everyone's post . The bad thing is that the more I read people's list I get ideas and I add more stuff to my wishlist. The good thing is I don't feel as guilty because I don't have as much as most of you . @markbt73 I can't believe you have 70+ static kits ! If I were to tackle one a month consistently that would take me 6+ years! That's like a few here and there trips to Mars. I think I only have 4 static kits in store. Just started this year so I don't have a collection. I want to build interesting vehicles (since I like the build part) or those that mean something to me, not have any duplicate chassis and keep it to a minimum: - Recently done: TC-01 Formula E was my first full build and recently finished it (technically I built a Grasshopper for someone and that sparked my interest but it's not mine) - Almost Done: Kyosho Javelin (2017) just waiting for a wing and had to tackle the driver figure - Kyosho Scorpion (2014) - building this weekend - Blitzer Beetle - not really a fan of it but my aunt had a Beetle and I was fond of being a passenger. I want to show it to her when I'm done - Egress - always admired this back in the day and I wanted a top Tamiya buggy - Schumacher Cat XLS - this I can't wait to build. I have it and I think I should make sure all the parts are in the box - Porsche 934 Black Edition - I think this was my first purchase. I like the late '70s Porsche body style, especially the wide body—and it's black - Kyosho Trail King - it's actually an RTR but I'm redoing the whole exterior and wanted to try it in the winter. The bonus is that it comes with a Kyosho stick type transmitter. - And, a Yokomo 870c--body only! Lol. I really love this one especially when it has pink wheels and remember seeing it as a kid. Obviously, none to be found and only way is if I live in Japan and find it used--and it would still be expensive. I thought of just doing the body Masami style and pretend/daydream I have one. Lol. I have a few others of what ifs but it just depends on budget and time. I'd like to realistically give each kit attention and complete them in a timely manner. Trying to avoid becoming a hoarder.
  7. I also came across a product here in the States called Waterweld. It can be sanded down and I'll probably test that out too. They have another product called Plasticweld but it dries clear.
  8. I was just thinking of some of the NIB/unbuilt kits I have and I always assume I will run out of them before I run of out time. But, I have more to build than time to build them and I don't even have a lot in store . Winter is coming and I dread painting during that weather. I'm curious to hear what everyone's next new kit project is or list of NIB/unbuilt kits in storage? Curious to read what's trending. How many do you have more to go in store?
  9. @Fuijo Wow! Thanks so much for all the great tips. This has been so helpful especially for future work I'm about to do. I probably will test out the TS clear on some leftover plastic and get some experience using it. Interesting approach on turning sprue into powder, have to look that one up and experiment on a few things. I do shake the paint cans for quite a while and keep them warm but I like the idea of just running them for a bit in warm water. Also had a chance to use the Tamiya fine surface primer and I like it a lot. Unfortunately, winter is coming and so paint work will take a while. Have to get to it then!
  10. @Fuijo thank you so much for the response. Really appreciate the time you spent responding to my question. I have a number of automotive sealant and waxes but I've never used Autoglym resin so I might look into it. I looked at your showroom, and man, you really have good work and I like that you spend time on the details/bodies. I asked about the TS-13 because I read on other forums that people we're having problems with it and how it ruined their work. I realized that they probably were not doing light coats first before wet coats. But where I hesitate (since I've never used it), was that some say to take time before re-applying coats--to a point where others recommend to wait for weeks or a month! Which I think is insane considering production 1:1 cars don't even require that. Anyway, I figure I'll probably not apply TS-13 on the driver's helmet but just the body. Sorry I have another question because I saw your Sand Scorcher work. I have a Blitzer Beetle that I'll be working on in a month or so and I planned on putting putty (prep, sand, prime) on the gap between the front mask and bonnet/hood. Did you do anything special to hide that gap? I also was planning on using some styrene and plastic solvent cement if the gap is wide. Thanks!
  11. Can anyone share some tips or pictures regarding hard plastic bodies and if you have applied (or always apply) some sealant like a clear gloss varnish? Perhaps a Tamiya TS-13 or some other gloss coat brand? Does it really help protect the paint job and does the TS-13 make it glossier? I'm working on two things, a driver (helmet) and a hard body and just thought if it's best to apply a coat of gloss (I want it shiny). So far the helmet, with just the paint is already shiny and I'm wonder if the TS-13 will dull it a bit? before I purchase it. Any suggestions or sample pics of your work with some coating? Thanks!
  12. Thanks! I guess with Kyosho being more race oriented and Tamiya model oriented it makes sense. That's interesting about the weight distribution and I think that can help a lot. In the article specs the Avante is the least balanced in terms of weight distribution and the rest are pretty much in rage of one another. So I assume the Egress will be closer to the Avante. (I will run NiMH on the Egress.) The more I read your various feedback on the Avante the more I put it on the back of my list of cars to get! . All fun aside, I do find every bit of it very valuable insight. Thanks for notes on the 870. Sounds like it would be embarrassing to show up at the track as a newbie with an Avante back then.
  13. Thanks, everyone. Kinda all makes sense. I think the bigger challenge I have since I never had access to RCs back in those days is that I don't have parts that I can repurpose. I also have a harder time accessing parts I want to use, like in this case an apporpriate motor. While waiting for answers I was digging around and you're right, came across your notes on the winds. Unfortunately, I may have to put a quad on the 4WD I'm building and just see how it goes. If anyone is interested in some further reading, I came across an article by Scott Guyat (don't know who is) on the intrerwebs. Here is an excerpt: The more strands of wire on a motor (e.g. triple compared to double), the more top end it will generally have (very general statements here). A multi-strand motor will generally be easier on batteries, and smoother to accelerate. You’ll generally be able to gear it higher (thus the higher top speed). But (and it’s a big but) you probably won’t get stump-pulling acceleration out of it. That’s where low strand count motors are strong (singles and double). I have to stress this again - this is a very general understanding. In years gone by, the choices were fairly simple. The more power you wanted, the lower the number of turns and strands you opted for. Something like an 11 double would have been considered to be an enormous motor. That is no longer true. New motor winding technology has meant that multi-strand motors like 15 x 6 or 11 x 7 are more common (and incredibly fast). Still, here’s a rough guide to motors for each class: 2wd: When you’re choosing a 2wd motor, steer clear of stump-pulling torque, since you’ve only got two tires in contact with the ground. Try to run multi-wind motors like triples or quads (or even quin or sextuples) and generally stay around the 11- 12- and 13-turn range (until you’ve got some experience). For tighter tracks, or higher grip, you might try a 12 double. When you first start out, a 13 triple or quad will be an excellent, consistent choice. 4wd: For four-wheel-drive, you need a little more grunt. This is exactly where double (and sometimes single) wind motors come in handy. Try an 11 or 12 turn double. 4wd is tougher on batteries, so you’ll need to use a lower gear ratio than with an equivalent motor in your 2wd. If you’ve got some of the newer cells and want ultimate horsepower, seriously consider something in the 10 turn range, probably a triple or quad. Save this last option for when you’ve done heaps of practice and are good, very good.
  14. I’ve been researching/looking for older brushed motors (late ‘80s to early ‘90s) for a few re release builds that I’ve been working on and some of these older motors indicate on the packaging or catalogue if it’s for 2wd or 4wd, or even on and off road. Does it actually matter? If I’m building a 4wd and want a 15T, 17T, or 19T but they indicated 2wd? Am I losing anything or will the vehicle be affected? Thanks!
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