Mechanic AH

@Ferruz I totally relate. Sometimes I look at extra spares and think the same. I also get mixed feelings of sometimes running the spares! Probably due to the fact that a lot of old stuff are not being produced any more. Regarding tires and wheels, sometimes it's when I put them together and they make that special piece. I also don't have enough storage space. Things I like: wheels or tires, brushed motors, bodies, driver helmets. I do like electronics too. If I had room, transmitters would be up there. As for tires, one of my favorites is from an old Optima I have. Never ran these tires but saving for a project. The re-re version doesn't have the same length of studs/spikes and rubber finish/details not as nice as the old ones: I also like old brushed motors, especially the ones from AYK and Kyosho (or other smaller Japanese brands). But have a couple of these old Mugen motors that I really like. Kinda unusual: And finally, bodies that are unique. As I get older, I have a tendency to get quite lazy or not looking forward to doing bodies anymore unless I have to for videos stuff. So when I come across something I like or with character I'll try to get it. This I had to have, it was a showcase body by Pandora RC in Japan. I don't know if Pandora or the painter sold it but I ended up acquiring it. It's a 1980s 2nd gen Mitsubishi Lancer 1800 EX GSR Turbo (before the Evo line). My uncle had a black GSR with gold BBS wheels back in the day. It's interesting how the hobby isn't just about building, running, collecting cars, but also collecting parts!

Thanks for your thoughts and seems that some of us have similar views on Kyosho. I think I'm starting to really feel their re-res are far more special than other brands' re-res. I still admire Tamiya because they somewhat stay true to the originals and the prices seem fair for reliving memories of old or for anyone to be able to get into the hobby with the lower price point kits (and box art!). I agree that Horizon missed the mark on the JRX2, I never understood why they had to release those smaller scale versions, but I'm curious as to what they would do if they released proper ones. Yokomo, for some reason I haven't gotten into, maybe I just have a special place for the brand's originals and don't need to relive them. As for AE, after much thought, their re-res start to feel less special. So today I was going back and forth on the Kyosho TOMs and Associated Graphite. I haven't purchased a new kit this year, I think, and I've been holding out for that one kit. I've never had a TOMS but have always loved the design of it (but I do have the Custom Mid Special that came after) and as for the Graphite, I have a couple old ones but want to run them again without spending on vintage parts. But like @markbt73, I got the first re-re RC10 Classic. I think I was a little disappointed but couldn't pinpoint why—maybe the re-res felt like replicas vs an homage. To the point where I lost some interest in building it. And when they started dropping all the other variants within a short span of time of each release, I let it slip and never found as much excitement. Their vintage relaunch just felt off whether it was the marketing of it, the price/value today vs other brands, the FOMO strategy put me off, and the characteristics of the re-re parts. Still, I thought I'd give it another try so I spent a little more time looking at the cars, articles, videos, promos—and what feels special at US$ 459 in 2025—the Graphite is the same price as the TOMs. For comparison: ' Regardless of where the cars are made, Kyosho's feel proper—the effort and ongoing passion, passing of knowledge (not just reliving history but paying tribute by thoughtfully re-engineering the cars), and the thought behind their promo videos show the difference: Associated Kyosho: So I ended up just pre-ordering the TOMs .

I've bought a fair number not only from Tamiya but from other brands in the past but have become very discerning in the last few years because of the sheer amount of re-res coming out. I've slowed down on the re-res but I think Kyosho's TOMs got me excited. I like the way Kyosho approaches it and how they celebrate the designer/engineers; talk about the history, concept, and engineering; and, generally focus on quality parts (or improvements that stay true to the concept of the originals)—which helps keep the cars more special. I've lost some fair amount of interest with Associated because all they seem to do is some sort of product drop marketing, way too frequently, and I think the parts are still an issue. Each brand has a different approach, some better than others. What are your thoughts on Tamiya, Kyosho, Yokomo, Schumacher, and Associated re-res and strategy? Did I miss a brand? Have they lived up to the hype?

I always felt Sanwa/Airtronics' technical writing and interface is not as user-friendly as Futaba's. KO is probably in between. And true, the 8x batteries adds heft and feel, I pulled out my old KO Mars FM and daily KO EX 2.4 and the newer one feels better in terms of quality but once the batteries are in, the old one feels like quality like a tank. You can tell how product design has changed after decades...

Thanks for the responses. I appreciate old transmitters because they seem to have interesting character visually and physically, and looks good with older cars. Still debating if top of the line transmitters are worth it for casual use—I do want a new stick transmitter and curious about the Sanwa EXZES ZZ or Futaba 7XC but they're both a lot of money. Or for half the price the Futaba 4GRS but might regret the quality/feel. I wish Tamiya would come out with a new Adspec 2.4ghz.

I have some cool old AM and FM transmitters and thought of trying them out (Adspec, KO, JR, Futaba, Sanwa) but is it a bad idea? I do have one old Kyosho TF2 with the original Futaba FM installed and so far that hasn't had any issues, luckily. I have an itch to use the Adspecs but they're AM—anyone still using those? Or anyone still use AM transmitters and is that pushing it?

A few years ago I built an MF-01x and I was underwhelmed and a bit disappointed with how it drove, and how noisy it was. Then I received a DT02 Kumamon with friction shocks and I had a blast running it. I do have others I like but those two stood out (oh and how I liked the TC01 a lot). What are yours?

I want to replace the screw pins on the Falcon with hinge pins, does anyone know if there are Tamiya hinge pin part numbers I can use? I think for the shortest they're probably TL01 22mms? But not sure for the rest. Thanks in advance.

Cool! I wonder if the MSC with fuse only lasted a year or so before it was replaced. I remember fuses on earlier Tamiya models and seeing that makes it more nostalgic.

Maybe check the the ball diff that it's properly tightened, sometimes the ball diff becomes loose. Then re adjust the slipper clutch again. You can also check if the ball diff screw snapped, usually if it was overtightened.

Question for those who'll buy it, assuming you only buy one or two kits: - do you intend to keep it in the box? - build and keep as shelf queen? - build and run?

Here is a photo of the MSC: The 4mm rod end adjusters in the bag are black on this kit (instead of white)... I was curious about the 18T pinion gear teeth difference between a Tamiya mod 0.8 and a Robinson Racing Absolute 32P. Not sure if it's just my copy but when I look really close, there's a slight difference. I've used 32P in other Grasshopper builds but I think I'll just stick to mod 0.8 moving forward. The illustration below is not the most accurate representation but it shows the general idea...

(*image from fleabay Japan)

No problem at all, once I start building and taking everything out of the blister pack it I'll take pictures of it

In addition to all the recommendations, I take the brushed motor apart. If it has race/ball bearings I remove them first and clean/re-oil them separately with a different process. If the motor has metal bushings I just leave them in. If the the brushes are not too dirty I just brush the wires and wipe the brushes clean. As for the cleaner, I've also used CRC Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner (non-flammable but have to be more cautious with plastic parts and use it for the armature/can), and CRC QD Quick Dry Electronics Cleaner (safe on most plastics and evaporates pretty fast). So far no issues.