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About SentriU

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    RC, PCs, Gaming and 3D printing.

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  1. Upgraded my rugged to 2.01 and now when I turn on my remote and receiver I get glitching that stops after a few seconds. This happens only when using more then 3 channels. So it happens on my Clod Buster only. The second servo and the esc will pulse/twitch for a few seconds and then stop. This only happens on first boot and not if you just power the esc and turn it back on. Only when the remote is turned off and back on. Going back to 1.09 and everything behaves as normal. I already reported it to Spektrum. Wondering if anyone else who updated and use 4WS or dual servos steering or any multichannel functions is having the same issue? Shame as 2.01 fixes a bug with 4WS.
  2. Having the same problem with the 880, I don't think it likes low turn motors and nimh batteries. Even after setting the cutoff voltage to disabled and battery type to nimh. It didn't like the goolrc motors I tried. I still have to test the rc4wd 20t motors I bought. You can get it to run by lowering the initial start force and start/mode/Punch but then you don't have enough punch to do wheelies anymore. If the rc4wd motors still cause cut outs, I might have to upgrade to Lipos or try 2 1060/1080s and run two nimhs. The latter would be cheaper as I have a few nimh batteries already.
  3. Thought the torque Tuned where timed? I went with the RC4WD's for now, picked up two of them for the same price as a single motor from another brands.
  4. When comparing the Bullhead to the Clodbuster or even other 1/10 models, I felt like the Bullhead body is really closer to 1/12 scale. It's barely bigger then my Kyosho Beetle body. If that's the case that would explain why Super Pete tires look smaller then the Bullheads. Tamiya did spec it's semi models for 1/12 scale. I was going to try to widen and stretch the Bullhead body, to closer match Super Pete (or Big Pete which is another Monster truck that has the Peterbilt cab), but that was way over my skill level. I went with Jconcepts F250 Super Cab on mine. It's a far bit larger then the Clodbuster and Bullhead bodies. It rides on a 3d printed chassis now. Stretching the chassis seemed to help with straight line stability at the cost of a tight turning circle. Widening the track with wheel spacers is what made mine want to tip over less.
  5. Anyone try the Reedy Radon 2 19T 3-Slot, it's available at a Canadian hobby shop I buy from for $34 CAD. They also have rc4wd 540 Crawler Brushed Motor 20T for $15. The Reedy has adjustable timing.
  6. I would imagine at 17t would cause the 880 to to glitch out still. Though I am quite sure it's the 23t motors I got, that have a issue, as they seem way out of spec.
  7. Looking for a pair of brushed motors for a Clodbuster that will be a tad faster then stock ones. I tried goolrc's 23 turn motors, but they just seem to shut down my hobbywing quicrun 880. I don't have a digital tachometer, but testing with the Giri -The RPM Checker app they seem to be running at 30000 rpm (no load). which is far faster then the stock motors that got 18000 rpm, the sport turned motor 23 turn (from japan) I have on my Kyosho Beetle that gets around 23000 rpm and a spare 17 turn goolrc that gets about 24000rpm. Seems like they might be miss labelled? Looking for something that will pair nice with the hobbywing 880 but will give me a bit of a speed boost. It runs at about 18km/h right now, would like to break 20 km/h. Anyone have any luck rewinding a motor? I was thinking about trying to rewinding the 23 turns if I can't find anything.
  8. I run, close to zero toe up front and a few degrees on the rear, the more toe the better wheelie steer seems to work. I have to pop my links off though as I am sure one is the wrong length though, even trimmed I still get the car darting off to right.
  9. Anyone have any lucking on finding the Universal Shafts hop up?
  10. Any else find the upper arm connectors seem to make the handling worse? With them on I am getting a lot of inside front wheel hop when doing circles. With them off, the it handles much flatter with no wheel hop and the steering feels much more direct and responsive.
  11. I have those on order, delayed due to shipping back logs. I 3d printed 0.2mm shims and added them onto the inside wheel bearings, that go rid of most of the steering slop. I have proper 0.1mm metal shim on order. With the stock B11 and shimmed bearings I haven't had the dog bone pop out of the diif cup yet, (knock on wood). Funny Tamiya didn't flatten out the dog bone for the grub screw to grab.
  12. Nice looks like a 60's Lotus F1 car. I also won't be going box are when I get around to building mine. Red/black or metallic grey and blue for me.
  13. I think it was the travel/end points. I recently upgraded to a stiffer B11 part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4389623 The old B11 part must have acted like a secondary servo saver, being weak it bent. but with the stiffer B11 I have to dial back the travel. Happened again even with the lower end points, put the stock b11 part back in again. Think the wheel bearings need shims.
  14. Shame the reinforced parts don't help, I was going to try them out. Maybe I will try to shims the insides of the steering knuckle, to see if that will help keep the universals in place. Guess I should have picked up the Comical Frog instead, but I wanted something to run inside the house to cope with long winters.
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