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About Meobromon

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  • Birthday 12/20/1995

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  • Location
    South East Asia
  • Interests
    Offroad & drift

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  1. So I updated my radio from Radiolink RC4GS to Flysky Noble (about 4 times the price), got another Hi-Torque Servo Saver, replaced all rod ends with new dust-proof Tamiya ones and my steering issues are SOLVED. The car now tracks straight as an arrow! With the upgrades that just came in the mail, I am relieved and sad at the same time. The car is now at the point where short of dual brushless system, it is the endgame for me. There is nothing else to mod or upgrade...hmm... Here is the list of mods/changes I have done, roughly in the importance order. I will soon calculate the total cost, but I believe it is in $800 range.. 1. Quicrun 860 ESC, 15kg 0.08s MG servo, Hi-Torque servo saver, XT60 connectors 2. Carbon chassis fitting dual Lipo including 3s (and 1 dual Nimh version) 3. Ball bearings everywhere 4. Dual 21T 540 motors adjustable timing 5. Lunsford 3*73mm turnbuckles 6. M3 longer screws + brass sleeves + locknuts on all suspension parts to replace shoulder screws 7. Gearbox mounting holes drilled to 3mm. M3*50mm screws + lock nuts are used throughout (Bulletproof) 8. GPM alloy knuckles & hubs, custom 7075 alloy CNC shock towers, alloy rear upper arms. 9. ebay special 100mm full alloy oil shocks 10. 20T Yeah Racing pinions (18T is ok but on 3s too many wheelies) 12. Hardened 3racing stub axles 13. HSP 77mm dogbones (4mm thick vs ~2.7MM stock) 14. 150mm tall ebay special monster tires mounted on stock 2.2' rims 15. Dust-proof Tamiya rod ends everywhere 16. 7mm thick alloy hexes 17. Serrated nyloc nuts for wheels 18. 3D printed body posts (90% PLA, super strong) 19. 2mm rubber mats on bottom of geaboxes 20. Blue loctite on all metal to metal parts + to add: quick battery release, countersunk king pins, suspension shafts w/ e-clips. I will hold off on putting these on as it will be a glorious yet sad day when I am done.. Now onto developing dualbrushlesssytemphobia...
  2. Quick update after some speed runs, top speed below: 1. 27T 550 motors w/ 18T pinions on 2S: 20kmh 2. 21T 540 motors w/ 18T pinions on 2S: 26kmh 3. 21T 540 motors w/ 18T pinions on 3S: 34kmh at 3/5 throttle!! I'm guessing it will be over 40kmh at full throttle. Stock silver cans w/ 18T pinions on 2s should be about 20kmh. I will be content when I can consistently run at 40kmh (double of stock) without breaking and overheating things. Currently steering is still all over the place : (
  3. Great thread, pictures used to load for me when I last checked few weeks ago. What did you use to upload them? Love dagger threads
  4. So this happened!!! This is my childhood dream come (or more like made) true, to own over 1 custom chassis for this truck. Even better now that are carbon. Times of reminiscing about rcdaggerweb are over.. The 550 cans stay on for now, due to short motor wires the ESC is not in optimal location (should be at the back next to receiver). The tires are amazing find for $25 shipped, I am amazed at them nearly as much as at the chassis lol. I have finalized CAD drawings of both the chassis and shock towers, meaning anyone interested I can help produce more. Meanwhile I will have to source different carbon material (better weave & quality) and find another CNC shop. These guys take too long lol.
  5. One of my fears was that the servo/gearbox mounting holes wouldn't align, whether due to CAD file or CNC machining. Just put the servo and 1 gearbox on. Both fit perfectly!!! Hopefully I can finisj and get the car running tomorrow. Will be my first RC action in over a month.
  6. Thanks! Some pics still show really large for me, are you experiencing the same? They are supposed to be 800*600 resized by imgur. Shows too large on PC, fine on phone though.
  7. Finished putting on body posts and stock battery holderm A quick release set would complement it nicely, it's next on my list when I order more from RCmart. 80% complete, now to attach gearbox, esc/receiver, servo and the toe links. Taking me too long because I keep stopping to look at the chassis 😆
  8. So the car has been in bits since the last post. It's actually my only RC car at the moment so I have been binge watching Youtube RC videos and it was not healthy at all. Reason is I was waiting for the custom carbon chassis & mounting bits to arrive and put the gearboxes on. Well, everything is finally ready and I am way too anxious to find out how everything is going to go together. Some pics of the chassis next to my current Nimh-style chassis. The battery compartment is 48*30mm so should fit some hardcase 3S Lipo. Can't wait lol Servo mount (should be indestructible) View from underneath. Should probably add some lock nuts here. ESC & Receiver mounting plates. The CAD file missed 1 mounting hole on side plate, so I used a regular (orange) standoff and just ziptied the center plate to it for now. Other than screws, this is what a complete chassis set looks like unassembled. Orange standoffs go between body posts. Car should be ready to run this weekend. I will also be putting on 21T 540 motors with 20T pinions. Should be a huge step-up from 27T 550 motors and 18T pinions, I think top speed on 2S should be about 28kmh (absolutely random guess).
  9. I started a build thread recently (in the The Builds section of the forum), here is the rundown for 'upgrades' specifically: - Replace stock plastic servo mounts with alloy ones, or you can 3D print this one as well (uses chassis rails and double-sided tape). The stock mounts wiggle under stress - while the car is on the ground, you can turn left/right and see it. - Gearbox mounts are prone to cracking/breaking, it would be good to replace stock self-tapping screws with slightly longer ones. If you plan on running it hard, you could consider drilling the holes and fitting 50mm M3 screws/rods, should make them indestructible. - Shock towers - you can DIY some yourself or buy GPM/Yeah racing ones (they look exactly the same). If extra ride height is not what you are after, there are WR-02 shock towers that are about the same height as stock, but allow to install the shocks onto the tower instead of plastic mount. Any oil-filled shocks would be better than friction shocks. - Switching to 4WD or 4WS is very simple - basically replicate the rear (for 4WD) or front (for 4WS) depending on what you want. I am trying to get my rig to run 25-30mph so 4WS is not really for, but it would do nice donuts if you go that route. - Try to use bolt + nut anywhere possible - upper arm chassis mounts (replacing step screws), upper shock mounts - Battery compartment hugs the Ni-mh batteries really tightly, so if you buy a round shaped lipo, you may have to file the compartment slightly. Shouldn't affect rigidity as I have done that as well. Lastly there may be some carbon chassis available again soon! There were tons (well, at least 3-4 designs) about 10-15 years ago. Once I complete my file, I will likely share it publicly so that everyone else can CNC their own or modify it further.
  10. Been busy with work & out of city business trips so just a few updates: Had a few runs with the carbon chassis, wheel nuts keep flying off (hexes are 7mm instead of stock 6mm), maybe that 1mm makes a big difference as the axle does not 'stick out' enough from the nut. It is basically flat with the nut. Will try reversing the nut, removing the washer (between the nut & rim), or buying 6mm hexes (least preferred). With the carbon chassis, steering is slightly improved, but the car still tends to stray left/right with no specific pattern, I spent a lot of time trying to adjust the toe in & trim, gave up for now. Pics with and without the body: I recently picked up a drone (DJI Mavic Air 2) so played around a little trying to film the car, then I figured that I would need 5 hands to do this lol I went easy on first 2 packs, mostly running on tarmac, just going straight and testing turn radius etc. Then on third pack I took it up the hill, and after bit of tumbling quite a few things came apart: broke 70% of both gearbox mounts, servo horn. The carbon chassis is thicker than stock plastic, so re-using self-tapping screws was not a good idea. Bought an alloy servo saver + horn for $5, seems nearly identical to the stock one (pictured is the horn from hi-torque servo saver set). For now I put on the shorter servo horn that was also in the set. Then I drilled the geabox mounts to 3mm so that M3 machine screws could slot right through - the screws are 50mm long, since the gearbox + 2 chassis plates are 46mm thick total. I drilled using a dremel tool, I think the speed was set too high so the plastic kept melting, and it was not exactly a straight hole. A press drill would be much better. Had some time to visit a carbon workshop to cut another version of the carbon chassis with rectangular battery compartments. The workshop owner cut the chassis out of plexiglass first (for free!) to help me double check the gearbox mounting holes and motor clearance. Unfortunately I didn't have enough time to wait out the cutting process, so will have to see the final result in a few weeks when I am back in the city. Lastly I got those 21T motors that came with 4 free brushes, and it looks like they are neutral timing despite the 'rotation direction arrow' on the sticker. Would appreciate it if someone could verify via the picture below, I tried to do by ear and they sound similar to me at full throttle. Also it was the first time soldering for me, turned out not great visually, but would probably work for now. @ChrisRx718 Definitely could be adapted, or you could just leave the top battery compartment empty and use the lower one (which is what I will be doing as well, at least for now). It should help with lower center of gravity. The CAD file is an ongoing project with Andy, I will check with him before sharing, but I am pretty sure it is ok! Anyway I would also like to make it a final product before sharing the file, to make sure everything is tested and fits perfectly. Andy has actually asked Fibre-lyte about producing a chassis based on a drawing and he said the cost was too high.
  11. I will replace these hollow spacers + rods with solid standoffs (same as spacers, but have M3 thread through them) and will use screws on the sides instead, but think I get your suggestion. I saw in your 6x6 thread that you ran a rod through the gearboxes to mount on the chassis, which is actually exactly what I was planning. Did you just drill the holes, or tapped them as well? Also, would you advise doing it on brand new gearcases? Not sure if I should wait until mounting points crack and only then apply the 'bolt + nut technique' or better to just do it from the beginning. Here is a picture I found on facebook (in this case it was only drilled)
  12. I have been looking for a pair of these, do you happen to know the timing on them and their actual turns rating?
  13. Got another set of bigger tires from 'asian amazon' that will be put on the stock rims: While waiting for these to arrive I had two 20 minute runs on tarmac with the spike tires, which already wore quite a bit. Will reserve these for grass and 'stock pictures'. These cheap rims (I now have 2 sets, blue & red) are quite nice but offset is not enough & don't think they could be used without hex wideners.. what should I do with them? ---------- I have a 100cm*100cm roll of 2mm thick rubber laying around so I cut few pieces and stuck to the bottom of the gearbox. Ugly but we will see if they will protect the gearbox. So here is how the car sits. Most of the gearboxes' mounting points are either cracked & glued or bent and waiting to crack soon as the self tapper screws will be inserted. I ordered 2 sets of white gearcases ($20 shipped), hope it was the pre-teen me that was rough with the gearboxes and not the poor design. I am thinking of drilling these mounting holes and fitting long 50mm (or longer?) M3 rods/screws through them (attaching to chassis via a lock nut). Question is how to hold the gearbox in place while drilling? I don't have much experience with drilling and am afraid it won't go through straight, or worse crack the rest of the chassis. Also, what drill bit should I use?
  14. Wow, didn't know these were reinforced vs the regular creamy yellow ones. I have a set of these bought for spares, happy to find out! How did your test run go? Also, what motors are those & what LiPo are you running. I see the motors are 15T, wonder how the 880 handles them on Lipo. That servo setup is very neat. Correct me if I am wrong, thebattery holder came from some crawler - Axial hop-up part I think. I was also thinking of modifying stock chassis with that, but decided to go with a carbon chassis design altogether.
  15. Carbon chassis So I put together the carbon chassis and it seems barely used, pretty much zero scuffs. The aluminum spacers & threaded rods to hold the chassis together were quite difficult to put together as I haven't figured out a way to hold one nut while tightening the other. Somehow I managed to put it all together though. Battery holder setup (will replace with TL-01 quick release setup once they are available on RCmart).. Carbon cuts are really clean & there is an extra plate for batteries (total 6mm) Side by side with the stock chassis ------------------------- I was running alloy lower arms & stock upper arms, which created this negative camber - not sure how many degrees, but it looked quite significant & wore the tires on the inner half only. Apparently alloy lower arms are slightly longer than stock. I got 2 sets of rear cambers from rcmart, for 99c each and finally put them on to fix the camber (this truck is not a performance machine, just wanted to wear the tire evenly ). These were not exactly a precision fit so I used a bolt + nut (no nyloc) and finally a nyloc nut - with the provided bolts the arms would bind up. While cleaning the suspensions bits I noticed that the shocks could be mounted on the back of the shock towers like so. Would this have similar effect to few degrees of kick-up, as the WR/WT chassis have none in stock form? Way I understand it should help with jumping (not sure how exactly), would appreciate if someone could help explain what effect this would have. Think I also finally figured out how to resize photos. Will try to resize previously posted pics when I have time.
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