Danmurphy1978

I'm geared on 69/23 with a 13.5T which is 7.31:1 and am running on a small/medium sized astro track. I could probably go to a smaller pinion for a bit more punch but it feels nice and smooth to drive with decent top end. You may get away with the standard ratio, 74/21 (8.59:1) but to get a lower FDR you need the high speed gear set. The high speed gear set (47328) comes with one piece spur/idlers, so does away with the alloy idler in the gearbox.

I was wondering if there are any option shock pistons available that fit the hi cap dampers? I know they come with 2, 3 and 4 hole options, but even the 2 holes create quite soft damping even with heavy oil. I think they are all 1.5mm holes. Could do with a 1.2 or 1.3mm option, would any of the TRF pistons fit?

Good point, I hadn’t considered that before I wrote that post! 😂

Thanks. Is this Matt North? Used to race micro buggies a few years back? I sanded the diff plates and the diffs are working great, just need to hold the outdrives in I think. Do I thread lock on the splines? Wouldn’t this work loose over time?

Thanks for all the info. I have a replacement diff coming for the rear so will try gluing the outdrives in. Are you applying glue to the hole that the pairing outdrives sits in, or straight onto the teeth?

Hi All, I have a re-release top force that I am racing at our local club on astro turf. I've stripped the teeth off the rear outdrive and metal diff parts after about a dozen runs with it. I'm running a 13.5T brushless motor, so reasonably tame for today's standards, but obviously a reasonable amount of torque for the Top Force. I've been researching the TA03 ball diffs and was trying to find out if these come with the machined metal parts rather than the cast standard parts included with the kit? Do the splines on these machined parts hold up better than the kit ones, or am I best just using a less powerful motor if I want to race it regularly? I've always been told never to let a ball diff slip, but I've read a few comments about people saying the ball diff allows some give in the transmission since there is no slipper clutch. Are we saying it can run slightly loose, at the detriment of quicker wear to the balls and plates, which would allow less strain on the metal drive parts? Post build pic attached!