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BuggyGuy

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About BuggyGuy

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    W. London
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    RC, CAD, Computer Programming, 3D Printing, CNC

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  1. Some shiny Ti coated hinge pins for the rear of the TD4
  2. Onto the steering assembly, the hardest part to get for this was the steering posts, and the correct servo saver spring - luckily Tamico came to the rescue! The only alternative if you can't source the BB31 steering post is to source the TRF racing steering set (mega rare / expensive). I use a 4mm flanged lock nut on the top of the steering post of my other 201s to compress the servo saver spring, so I'm looking thr same on t his build as well. The other steering post is a simple 3mm shaft, but it's a bit of an odd length at 33.4mm: All assembled: Bearings then get added to the top of the steering posts: Followed by a small plate to keep everything in place when your taking the front of the car apart for repair or setup changes:
  3. I use a Savox SV-0220MG in my XV01 and its worked well - easily had for about £20
  4. All assembled: And then mounted: At this point we have to crack open a pack or reinforced B parts to get the motor cover:
  5. Slipper components with the alternative counter gear and some 7mm O-rings from TTP used to help retain the counter gears mounting pin: Reinforced idler gear with the lightweight TA06 idler shaft, and the assembled topshaft: Shapeways 3D printed gear case that can accommodate the slightly wider TD4 ball diff or the TA06 gear diff: And ready to fit to the best 201 motor plate, this one has the best fit with the 201 spur gear cover:
  6. Next up, rest of the gearbox and slipper: The DB01 slipper plates and the TA06 idler shaft are the main improvements over the stock 201. A 3Racing FF03 counter gear provides a high quality substitute for the TRF FF03 lightweight counter gear, and clutch parts were sourced from a DN01 hopup slipper kit which is identical to the 201 kit item.
  7. Anyone looking for turnbuckles for a TD4 - I'd highly recommend these, about half the cost of Tamiya items, and exceptional quality (Lunsford have been doing this a long time, I had their turnbuckles on an RC10B2) Also the TRF tool for fitting reinforced adjusters makes fitting ballcups super easy: A notch is present on one side of the turnbuckles so you can orientate them all in the same way more easily: Done: If you can't source Lunsford items in the right length (try DMS racing or MBModels) then Schumacher is also worth a try - I'm 99% sure they are made by Lunsford anyway and sometimes have a lower RRP and easier availability in the UK at least
  8. The TRF201 front arms would be viable to fit I think, but the push rod for the front suspension would need extending about 5mm. Shame they are as rare as hen's teeth! DB01/TRF501/201 rear arms look like they might be an option at the back, but they have a bit of a gull wing near the rear hub, while the TD4 arms are flat so would need to test how that would impact the rear geometry (might require the XV01 rear hubs with an alternative drive shaft) - but the arms are quite easy to get so probably worth a go. Carbon shock tower is deffo on list - but the Tamiya version is on back order or not listed at all the European retailers I've checked yet :-( Exhaust pipes, driver, wheel arch mounts and the rollover bar are already ommited, but not sure I'm ready to take the Dremel to the chassis yet!
  9. Rebuilt ready for the first indoor race of the season this coming Sunday. Now running a Muchmore Fleta V2 ESC and a Speed Passion 13.5T motor. Shorty lipo installed up front with some lightweight foam blocks stopping it moving rearward. It's got DF03 shocks, a Kimbrough servo saver, UJ's, slipper TA06 gear diffs, and alloy servo stays in there too. Recently fitted the steel bevel gears to the props / gearboxes as well. Still got rollbars and a set off Schuey/Lunsford titanium turnbuckles with reinforced adjusters to fit. Not sure what I'll do next to it, it needs to go on a bit of a diet so I think some more alloy and titanium screws are in order, and I'm going to get a carbon brace cut to replace the front shock mount and another for the ESC tray / rear chassis brace. Not sure where else it could easily loose weight from. I also need to get some alternative slipper pads, as the stock ones don't appear to wear very well
  10. I find the FF03s a pleasure to drive, they drive like a touring car but with more direct steering (though less stability and acceleration due to lack of 4wd) - on power steering can be a bit hit and miss depending on grip, and the smoothness of the surface you run on. Prices are not great though at the moment, and some hopups that are quite useful have become quite rare. The M07 is worth considering - night and day difference to the M05, great out of the box, and all the bits you might want are still easily sourced. The kit will cost you less than a NIB FF03 at the moment - but does not include a body.
  11. Anyone know if the aluminium steering upgrade parts for the TD4 have the same geometry as the stock parts? And other than removing the stoppers on the front hubs when running universals is there any other way of increasing the steering travel?
  12. Buy the Senna + TA08 Put the Senna body and wheels on the TA08, then sell the bare TT02 chassis. TA08 has plenty of goodies out of the box (SSBBs, oil filled TRF420 Diffs, Universal's, etc)
  13. Hate to be that person - but TRF211XM aslo only comes with plastic gears (metal cross shafts though)!
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