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BuggyGuy

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About BuggyGuy

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  • Location
    W. London
  • Interests
    RC, CAD, Computer Programming, 3D Printing, CNC

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  1. I've got a super locked down and pretty much empty profile just for the racing stuff on FB - feels like a reasonable compromise to access the RC content
  2. I think the TBLE-04 both S and R versions have a cutoff now
  3. P.S are you committed to that Tamiya motor, they aren't really up there with the latest brushless motors (though I'm sure it wil be plenty quick enough!)
  4. I use one of these already and think I'll be putting another in the TD4: TrackStar GenII 120A https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-genii-120a-1-10th-scale-sensored-brushless-car-esc-roar-brca-approved.html?wrh_pdp=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_gb_shopping&countrycode=GB&gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7arcieYWr7VSzKFV4VKqFg7_rwWovMr1iW6cDAKS1xIoMKQ_95O96bxoCqnwQAvD_BwE&___store=en_us Tekin make some awesome ESCs but they can be a little pricey
  5. I'm not sure I should mention this as you obviously have a problem... But there's a great club near you that run practice on Tuesday nights and racing on Friday nights - and some Sunday's (though you might need another car for race night!) that's worth checking out: https://www.shrccc.co.uk/
  6. Nylon filiments tend to require printing at a higher temperatures and can be harder to print (though I'm sure shapeways are great at dealing with this!) The main issue with printed parts is that the parts are printed in layers - which can make them weaker in some dimensions than others, the multijet fusion stuff is meant to help get round this weakness I believe - but I've not got a printer that can do that so haven't go experience with those parts. I've tried printing gears in various materials for the old Tenth Technology Predator cars (so bevel gears) - but have not yet found a material I can print that's durable enough (either too stiff so teeth sheer, or so soft that stuff melts, or in between where the wear rate is excessive) - though this has been with very powerful modified motors, something using a silvercan could well be fine. I'm currently trying to get the bits together to machine the parts from Delrin - but it's a rather expensive project to resurrect a car from the mid 90's so haven't put much time into it (building a machine to do it well has been a touch expensive...)
  7. Very few (if any!) 3D printed gears will be as strong as moulded or machined gears
  8. Agreed - for a bit of light track use the slipper and some front UJs would do it. I only mention the other bits as that's what the X-rays, Associated's, TLR and Schue cars already come with and the last few comments were comparing them and the costs.
  9. Just as a kind of aside - my NIB Xray XB4 2020 was only £300 in the UK. I agree the TD4 will not be as competitive out of the box as an XB4 or B74, just adding the DF03 shocks (or the big bores) will add a lot of cost, then you've got the TA06 gear diffs, slipper, wheels, and probabaly the alloy suspension and steering bits on top of that - and it's probably still not going to be as competitive! But there's quite a few people who just really like racing a Tamiya and there's no real option at the moment that can handle modern power.
  10. Does look very tough! Wonder how much it's going to weigh, I'm guessing it's going to be a lot heavier than the full spec competition cars - though quite hard to judge from the videos!
  11. I only use thread lock when screwing into metal parts, for plastic I fill the hole with epoxy resin and then retap. Never had issues doing this - but it's a bit of a faff!
  12. Cool! Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this You might find some useful tips in here for the DT02 if you've not already seen it: https://www.thercracer.com/2013/10/tamiya-dt02-guide-mods-tuning-and-tips.html?m=0
  13. Eastbourne RC is good for on road (including M-Chassis) 1066 buggy club is good for offroad (Hastings)
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