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Everything posted by BuggyGuy

  1. Kyosho used to have a pretty big range of non RC models, not sure they did kits though, mainly display pieces I think
  2. For the fitting of the rear aeration dampers, I found the best solution was to wind a long set screw into the arm and then secure the shock to it with an M3 lock nut.
  3. Yep Would be even more expensive to convert it to the shortcourse truck I think
  4. You can convert a DR10 to an RB10 (buggy) You just need the chassis plate, a body, and maybe the shock towers IIRC There's quite a few threads about in on rc10talk, some more detailed than others. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=114&t=48093 https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=114&t=47939
  5. I use a Super Stock TZ in mine. It's less of a crawler with that motor though and more of a monster truck speed wise.
  6. In this situation (and I can't believe I'm saying this!) I would put that car on the shelf and get a new one to play with and modify. I think the plastics on the original will have deteriorated a bit by now (though not all cars seem to suffer from this - so how it was stored probably has an impact), and it would be a shame to damage a mint condition manta ray! Lovely car by the way!
  7. The XV01 item gives you slightly more choice for roll centre adjustment and is easier to find in stock + you can get a carbon reinforced version easily. The DB01 version would work - but it's a rarish item these days. The best item to use is the TRF201 aluminium rear hub if you can find them.
  8. Looking forward to this - I didn't use lots of genuine hopups on mine so interested to see how it pans out!
  9. I really like 12th for on road, but 10th for off-road. 12th off road is often to low and small to be stable, so it has to be 10th for that for me. I find 10th on road to be a little too fast and not alook as scale.
  10. I'd scale up my Associated B6.4 - the scale speed would be 500mph+ and I'd have to chop my legs of to fit in the cabin, but it would definitely turn some heads!
  11. I think if they did an R or MS spec for reasonable money you'd get more interest at the club racing level, though it would need a few changes to allow better (non DIY!) support for shorty lipos, and some improvements to the steering for that to work. TBH 4WD off road is a bit niche in the UK now, 2WD is the dominant class in the off road scene.
  12. Wheelspin show shadow stock (so must be in at the distie): https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/225380/ JConcepts version in stock at MBModels: https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/jc2260-1-jconcepts-kyosho-rb6-rt6-aluminum-front-suspension-brace-blue-p
  13. Apologies - it's part UM720B
  14. @toyolien This was the brass front block I used: https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/rdrp0201-rdrp-brass-front-suspension-pivot-block-32g-ultima-rb6-p The RB6 cross member is UM721 (JConcepts also make one in blue) The rear hubs I fitted were these: https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/rdrp0199-rdrp-black-aluminium-rear-hub-carrier-set-ultima-rb6-p But Kyosho themselves make some better ones such as UMW704-0 and UMW704-05 (the trailing digit indicates the amount of toe-in provided) - they are pricey, but the larger bearing they will take would be a big plus.
  15. XV01 hubs are 0 degrees - the XV01 rear toe comes from the inner suspension mount
  16. Yeah - DB01 rear arms are the same distance from inner to outer hinge pin as the TD4 arms Edit:
  17. The 10BL120 is great and I've used them extensively for club racing - but they not a patch on the full fat competition ESC for adjustability and feel. I use a HW XR10 Pro V4 G2S in my XB4 buggy - the punch, boost, and, brakes are a huge improvement on the 10BL120. You also get a high voltage BEC which is very useful for race servos. The SkyRC TS160 is a nice middle ground ESC for racing as well.
  18. You can use Kyosho RB7 driveshafts if you can't find DB01 or TRF201 items. You won't be able to use the stock arms without filing a grove in the top of the arm (as the driveshaft sits lower in the XV01 hub) - you'd be better using DB01 rear arms which are still easy to get hold of and cheap IMO
  19. The Hobbywing XeRun XR10 Justock G3 has a smaller foot print and should be ok with a 10T (worth check the spec sheet though). No timing or boost on this one though. HW do the 10BL60 as well which is a bit cheaper (it's a baby version of the 10BL120)
  20. You can adjust toe and camber front and rear as well as anti squat and roll centre. It's very very similar to the TRF201 and RC10B4. As far as rear motor buggies go - it's very close to the pinical cars from that era with maybe only the RC10B5 rear motor, the TRF201XR, and the Kyosho RB6 (in rear motor) eclipsing it from a geometry PoV
  21. I've fitted the brass front suspension hanger from an RB6 (you also need the RB6 front cross member) RB6/7 rear hubs fit (I've fitted RDRP aluminium RB7 hubs on mine) RB6/7 front uprights fit - I've added these to mine as they have adjustable front inserts. Arms and hingpins from any of the later cars should work (though fronts are a couple of mm different so fit in pairs). I don't think the Dirtmaster is original RB5 - it's the SP2/WC version, but any RB5 part will fit. Though be weary of front shock towers - as early RB5 versions were not designed for the big bore dampers - though they will still fit with a couple of spacers, the original RB5 rear shock tower is also a little taller - the Dirtmaster comes with the shorter version that came as standard on the later RB5 cars. If you race on a big track the RT5 chassis (longer) maybe a worthwhile upgrade - but you would need a different body. Regarding bodies - Tamiya SandViper, TRF201 and a few of the JConcepts and Team Associated bodies from the B4/201/RB5 era should fit. I managed to source one of these NIP for mine: https://blog.jconcepts.net/2012/01/jconcepts-new-release-kyosho-rb-5-wc-finnisher-body/ The first thing I changed on my car after a couple of races was adding Ti turnbuckles to the rear as the stock ones bent surprisingly easily after a few races on a track with fairly large jumps. Also the rear hub bearings - Kyosho have saved some money to hit the low price point, the included bearings are not very strong at all (I distorted the inner races of them with one race meeting with no major accidents). The metal cap for the oil filled gear diff was the last thing I ordered - Ive not fitted it yet, but the kit gear diff leaks so I'm hoping this will help a little (I've not overfilled the kit one and I sealed it with AE Green Slime - but it's still leaking) - I've heard the TA06/M07 diff would fit bit I've not tried it yet.
  22. The plates, spring and counter gear certainly are - the shaft looks the same but I've not actually tried it.
  23. I could only fit the 10BL120 by using a shorty lipo in fully forward and putting the speedo directly behind it. The ball diffs should be fine with a 10.5T - but if you can pickup a pair of TA06 oil filled gear diffs cheap then they might be worth considering as well, but this really depends on where you are running it (indoor racing on carpet for example - the gear diffs will be better). The metal bevel gears for the prop shaft and gearboxes are also worth considering - if you use the stock plastic gears then take the car apart after the first pack of cells through the car and see if you need to reshim. You won't need to do this again after the first run (well I didn't at least). I have DF03 dampers on mine and they are a good fit. I did use the lower spring cups from the TRF5** cars with mine though for a nicer fit (same sprue as comes with the buggy aeration damper set).
  24. At the rear at least I think the JConcepts Mono wheels should have the correct offset (though they are a race wheel - not a show wheel)
  25. TD2 wouldnt hold you back at club level unless your driving standard is particularly high. It needs a few hopups to be really race worthy though (clutch, diff nut). Finding a motor that will fit is probably the biggest hurdle!
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