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Everything posted by BuggyGuy

  1. I have a few projects that felt great on paper but just didn't pan out, but by and large mine tend to go ok. If I don't like how something is going I normally put it away for a little while and come back to it fresh a few weeks later
  2. You should be able to get everything you need here: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/tamiya-tt-02-type-s-chassis-387949 Ive always found them to be reliable Edit - the only steering upgrade that is essential is a better servo saver, the yeah racing stuff is nice but not essential. Front universal driveshafts would be a better upgrade. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-kimbrough-servo-saver-medium-1331026 Edit 2 - if your really rushing the KillerBody prepainted shells are excellent (though a touch pricey) E.G https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/killerbody-subaru-impreza-wrc-2007-painted-blue-body-kit-1340516
  3. MBModels in Leeds is good as well (they also run a club night): https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/
  4. DMS are more than just a modelshop, they are also a distributor for quite a few brands here in the UK (under XFactory) - they also run the club in Watford I think they bring in the stuff by Avid, Exotek, JConcepts, Hiro Seiko, LC Racing and others.
  5. There's good RC shop opened in Hastings in the last few years, it's more racing orientated (no Tamiya) - but it's good to see new shops opening and surviving
  6. TD4 is much better choice if your thinking about going to a track with an in production Tamiya 4WD buggy IMO Edit: If they could increase the wheelbase, provide a slipper clutch, and increase the ride height a bit it could be more viable for racing.
  7. I don't use the black ones in shocks, only as cushioning for driveshafts / props. Red are fine - much better than black, they are ok for a basher/street/garden. 53574 - TRF damper rebuild kit with clear o rings - these are much better than red or black, but I dont think they last as long as the navy blue VG ones. 42374 - Blue VG O rings for gear diffs are excellent compared to the standard/older items (always used to have to swap the kit items for Kyosho ones) - note these should only be used in oil filled gear diffs - not shocks. 42374 come as standard in the TA08 so might become a standard item I suppose. I use them in TA06 gear diffs that I use in my TRF211XM and M07, also use them in the DB01 diffs I have in the TA05 as well. 42359 - Navy blue VG O rings are the go to ones for TRF dampers for me, I use them in SSBBs, Big Bore Buggy dampers, and Buggy aeration dampers - they last well and I don't have leaky shocks. I've never used the X-rings for mineral oil as I only use silicon shock oils, the other X-rings are ok, but I prefer the navy blue VG ones as I think they last longer and are more consistent on track
  8. Maybe the Traxxas Slash? Most are RTR but they do a kit as well unde part number TRX58014-4 Edit: Traxxas Stampede is also available in kit form
  9. Yeah they are only available RTR, my other suggestion would have been a Kyosho Outlaw Rampage, but they are also RTR only.
  10. I would look at the Team Associated MT10 Rival, they are fast, tough, and fantastic fun, while also being relatively cheap compared to the equivalents from other manufacturers IMO
  11. I'm very similar with builds, but very different with racing. I'll race whatever is running locally, but with builds I also tend to go through phases like yourself. Last phase was TRF buggies, and now they are all complete I'm onto TA series touring cars. Next will be M-Chassis I think. I don't tend to try and have one of every chassis, but will go for ones that have easy availability of parts, so for M-Chassis I'll probably stop once I have completed M05 onwards.
  12. I've found the Creality Ender FDM printers to be decent quality and well priced. They also make it in a couple of sizes to suit your application. PLA is probably going to be the filament of choice, you can get filaments with a level of carbon fibre content for a bit of added strength. ABS and Nylon filaments would be worth experimenting with as well - but these can be hard to print with on hobby grade printers. A couple of things that are worth considering: - You'll get better / stronger prints if you can keep the moisture levels in your filament low, you can get gizmos to help with this. - Getting an enclosure for you printer (or making one) can really help when printing ABS or Nylon
  13. Kyosho MiniZ would feel like the obvious choice for drifting around a house on wooden floors - can be a little pricey though
  14. I would try moving the battery fully forward as a quick and easy thing to test. Having a big weight at the back will increase the chance of the backend wanting to swing out past the front when going round a sharp corner.
  15. If you're that into Clods you probably should! If you keep a second one NIB it might help fund an elusive Black edition in the future...
  16. Building up the front hubs comes next, the only none reinforced plastics are the front arms, so I'll probably swap to a reinforced pair if I manage to break the originals Those tiny screws that retain the hinge pin running though the hub are a pain to install - so I pretap the hole with a cap head screw thats the same thread: Hubs then get attached to the arms: Titanium screws again used for retaining the hinge pins (I've got loads of these in stock after finding them for £2 a packet delivered!) Next we attach the arms to the bulkhead, another hop-up here with the Ti coated shafts (£3 a pair at the moment):
  17. Moving onto the front end, steering rack comes first: Only difference between this and an original 201 is the use of the hard hex head ball connectors (all ball connectors on the 211 are of this type). And all secured with a small top plate:
  18. Suspension arms and gearbox get mounted next, you get the 3 degree rear RR mount in the kit, it took me forever to find one of these for another 201 build, so really nice to see one included here: You have to shave a bit off the arms to stop them hitting the diff outdrives when the suspension is compressed, but I wanted to fit the gearbox before doing this so I could mark up the right spot. Should have mentioned in one of the posts above, but other than the choice of chassis material the waterfall brace and CF cross member shown above are probably the biggest change from the earlier XM 201s - on the 211XM the waterfall is bolted to the cross member, this removes a lot flex from the rear of the car that the earlier XMs had (even though they have aluminium chassis). Drive shafts next, these are updated from the original 201's (though I think the XMW had the same setup) and feature a retaining clip to keep the pin in place, this makes me 99% certain the stub axles are the same as used in the 501x WO rear driveshafts. I think the retaining clip/spring is from the TRF417? The swing shaft is still 64mm like the original cars (so guess the whole unit came from one of the later TRF5** series car).
  19. If this is like the Novak Cyclone and GTB - nothing will happen until you've done the initial setup to set neutral and the throttle high + brake/reverse
  20. On Imgur (desktop site not mobile) I take the "BBCode" link for any image, then here when wanting to insert a pic I click "Insert other media" -> "Insert image from URL" I then paste in the link from Imgur and remove the bits from each side of the link. There's probably an easier way - but I've not found it!
  21. Well thanks to this thread I now have a Japan Cup 2021 Dual Ridge Jr on the way.... https://tamiya.com/english/products/95143/index.htm Unfortunately that led to the ordering of the following: https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/95145/index.htm https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/95148/index.htm https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/95144/index.htm https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/95146/index.htm Should be a fun little thing to fiddle with Will have to try and build a track in the spare room now
  22. Paint the blue and yellow first (blue before yellow) then do the white and back with silver. That would be how I'd approach that scheme anyway!
  23. The 501 pads feel like they are more consistent to me, the original 201 pads feel like they go off too quickly. AE B4 type pads are probably the best replacements though
  24. Yeah I have the imperial axles as well in the parts bin, but foolishly sold my stock of B4 wheels recently. The Schumacher slim fronts for bearing wheels are currently out of stock everywhere unfortunately. JC Racing make a set of B4 fronts - but I can't find the dimensions online and they don't look particular slim from the pics. I think the star dish fronts should be ok, they are definitely slim, take a pair of 1050 bearings, and are listed as 2.2" - though I'm expecting them to be slightly poor fit for the tyres based on the other stardish wheels I have in stock - at least compared to proper competition wheels, but they should be a much better fit for the cut staggers Schue tyres than the wide 201 fronts. This is the part I've gone for: https://tamiyabase.com/parts/4405-10445167
  25. In real life I'm a little ahead of the posts here in a rush to be ready to race this coming Sunday. I've had to order some white star dish front wheels as I don't have anything in stock that's slim enough to run Schumacher cut staggers. All the 201 wheels I have are to wide for a good fit on any slim competition tyre :-(
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