BuggyGuy

I think parts support should be pretty solid for the RB10 as it shares loads of bits with the DR10 and the SC10 - but I agree that have been a bit shoddy with randomly binning spares off since they got bought out

Looks like Team Azarashi have rere'd their old RB5 body (that quite a few people used to use on the 201) for the DirtMaster: https://www.redrc.net/2023/07/team-azarashi-dirtmaster-aralgo-body/#more-212750

Hi guys I've recently rebuilt my Ultima ReRe and have gone for an after market carbon chassis from FibreLyte: https://fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/ultimachassis.html It's a fantastic looking chassis and I'm very pleased with the build, but obviously I can't use the body from the ReRe on it as it will leave the electrics completey exposed. I ordered a reproduction Tomahawk body with an undertray from Penguin - I'd seen this fitted to a few Ultimas - but the FibreLyte carbon chassis is too wide at the front for it to fit.... I'm thinking of trying the Ultima Pro Turbo 2 body and undertray, but I'm worried about fitment: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175201501447?hash=item28cad2c107:g:BZ8AAOSwbLJeGEhW https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174817643352?hash=item28b3f18b58:g:kAsAAOSwYzNg2ItC So! Anyone got any other ideas for a good body with undertray that might fit the FibreLyte chassis? Or happen to know if the Ultima Pro Turbo 2 undertray will fit this chassis (long shot I know!) Cheers

I think that from a value perspective the Yokomo Rookie Offroard is probably better value - but it's not rear motor. To race a Dirt Master you need to spend at least £100 on upgrades IMO, I've certainly spent a bit more that that at this point. No upgrades needed if you just want to play in the garden though!

They are very different cars - both would be a blast in the park. If cost is not an option I'd pick the TD4. I've really struggled to make the TD4 work on track though - but it's fantastic around the garden!

Racers will always push for performance over form. But to be honest - unless your driving is at a very high level, running a cab rear body makes no difference. I think the classic bodies look pretty good on the newer chassis, but they don't seal that well to the bottom of the chassis. Though maybe something with an undertray would be a good choice if you race somewhere dirty: https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=40598 JConcepts did do a more cab rear style for the B6 a while ago as well: https://www.redrc.net/2017/05/jconcepts-illuzion-b6-series-body-shell/

Bit of an update, as I've now raced mine quite a few times. - The kit shocks appear to leak with use on bumpy tracks from the caps, I've not found a solution to this so had to more to Xray XB2 shocks (the Kyosho big bores are outrageously priced at the moment) - Even with aftermarket alloy rear hubs I've been getting through a lot of rear hub bearings regardless of axle spacers/drive pins/hexes used. I've upgraded to UMW704-0 which uses a much larger outer hub bearing and had no more issues. - I found the clutch would be hard to set consistently on high grip surfaces, so I fitted UM572 which replaces the plastic washers in the clutch with a larger metal plate and a metal bushing and found this helped a bit to make it more predictable. - The metal cover for the gear diff is essential if you want to fill the gear diff with oil. The plastic cover flexes just enough to allow oil to leak out. In terms of performance the car itself is great on grass tracks, and it's fantastic on wet and slippery tracks as well. I raced at a regional recently on astro where it was dry all day, so I used my Associated B6.4, but it rained for the finals so I switched to the Dirt Master and went from 9th to 2nd across the 3 legs of the final. Rear motor cars have a decent advantage on low grip tracks so I'll be taking the car along to future regional races regardless of the surface just in case it rains!

Most of the guys I race with use these receivers with their Sanwa radios as they're only £50 https://smddirect.co.uk/collections/smd-receivers/products/smd-srx2-sanwa-receiver-fhss-3-fhss-4 SMD are a good company to deal with as well - it's run by Jamie Booth

I'm probably going to get one of these and try it at a couple of local tracks on club nights. Getting the right wheels to allow fitting race tyres and getting it closer the 250mm width will be needed though for sure if it's to be competitive enough to be worth trying.

Kyosho used to have a pretty big range of non RC models, not sure they did kits though, mainly display pieces I think

For the fitting of the rear aeration dampers, I found the best solution was to wind a long set screw into the arm and then secure the shock to it with an M3 lock nut.

Yep Would be even more expensive to convert it to the shortcourse truck I think

You can convert a DR10 to an RB10 (buggy) You just need the chassis plate, a body, and maybe the shock towers IIRC There's quite a few threads about in on rc10talk, some more detailed than others. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=114&t=48093 https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=114&t=47939

I use a Super Stock TZ in mine. It's less of a crawler with that motor though and more of a monster truck speed wise.

In this situation (and I can't believe I'm saying this!) I would put that car on the shelf and get a new one to play with and modify. I think the plastics on the original will have deteriorated a bit by now (though not all cars seem to suffer from this - so how it was stored probably has an impact), and it would be a shame to damage a mint condition manta ray! Lovely car by the way!

The XV01 item gives you slightly more choice for roll centre adjustment and is easier to find in stock + you can get a carbon reinforced version easily. The DB01 version would work - but it's a rarish item these days. The best item to use is the TRF201 aluminium rear hub if you can find them.

Looking forward to this - I didn't use lots of genuine hopups on mine so interested to see how it pans out!

I really like 12th for on road, but 10th for off-road. 12th off road is often to low and small to be stable, so it has to be 10th for that for me. I find 10th on road to be a little too fast and not alook as scale.

I'd scale up my Associated B6.4 - the scale speed would be 500mph+ and I'd have to chop my legs of to fit in the cabin, but it would definitely turn some heads!

I think if they did an R or MS spec for reasonable money you'd get more interest at the club racing level, though it would need a few changes to allow better (non DIY!) support for shorty lipos, and some improvements to the steering for that to work. TBH 4WD off road is a bit niche in the UK now, 2WD is the dominant class in the off road scene.

Wheelspin show shadow stock (so must be in at the distie): https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/225380/ JConcepts version in stock at MBModels: https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/jc2260-1-jconcepts-kyosho-rb6-rt6-aluminum-front-suspension-brace-blue-p

Apologies - it's part UM720B

@toyolien This was the brass front block I used: https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/rdrp0201-rdrp-brass-front-suspension-pivot-block-32g-ultima-rb6-p The RB6 cross member is UM721 (JConcepts also make one in blue) The rear hubs I fitted were these: https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/rdrp0199-rdrp-black-aluminium-rear-hub-carrier-set-ultima-rb6-p But Kyosho themselves make some better ones such as UMW704-0 and UMW704-05 (the trailing digit indicates the amount of toe-in provided) - they are pricey, but the larger bearing they will take would be a big plus.

XV01 hubs are 0 degrees - the XV01 rear toe comes from the inner suspension mount