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wonko

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Posts posted by wonko


  1. Just now, MadInventor said:

    Not really as the body is polycarbonate and flexes when it's in an impact. The only way to guarantee protection for the outside of the body is to put the model in a glass display case, lock it, and throw away the key. :D

    That's what a buddy told me.  LOL.  "Make a 'Trailer Queen' body and then one for actually using."

     

    1 minute ago, MadInventor said:

    You can of course mask off some of the inside of the body and then paint on the colour scheme. Take for instance the white panels on the hotshot bodyshell. If you cut out the white panels off the decal sheet and then stick them on the inside of the shell on the opposite side to which they are intended for, you can then spray the main body colour over the decals, then when the paint is dry (or you've put on enough coats), peel off the decals and put a layer of white on. 

    That's a VERY interesting idea!!  I might try to do something like that.


  2. Looking at a friend's TT-02 with a Ferrari body, it seems pretty easy to mess up the decals and chip paint during an accident.

    I'm brand new to this hobby, and my assumption was the decals went on the inside of the body and then the paint was applied over them.  Obviously, this isn't the case, but I'm curious if that's possible.

    Is there any other way to protect the outside of the body?  Some sort of high-gloss polyurethane or something?

    Thanks!


  3. Okay, so from what I understand:

    • 'Speed' is response time measured in seconds and the lower the number, the better.
    • 'Torque' is the amount of force which can be applied for steering.

    @Silver-Can, you mention 4-5kg is plenty.  However, the servo you purchased is 25kg for the aircraft.  I assume you need that much torque for flight controls?

    For a 1/10 rally and 1/10 on-road, what should I really look for?

    Also, the batteries are 7.2V.  Looking at the Savox servos, they come in 6V and 7.4V.

    Does this matter?


  4. First off, thanks again to all who responded to my other post about my first build.

    I do have a question about servos.

    I've been shopping different brands and models and I understand some servos are high torque whilst others are high speed.  My assumption is this is the same terminology as applies to motors.

    However, I see Futaba has high torque servos and "high power" servos.  Is that the same as high-speed?

    Also, what brands do you recommend for quality?

     

    Thanks!


  5. Thank you everyone for your help!

    3 hours ago, Lee76 said:

    Now I can be two friends at the same time...

    I think they make pills for that, actually. :D

    @Jonathon Gillham  First off, thanks for such a detailed response.  That helps a lot.

    4 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

    You're right, Futaba makes great gear.  The 3PRKA is one of their bottom range units which do work well, but doesn't have multi-model memory.  This means some fiddling around with it when you want to swap models.  Some people just have one receiver on velcro which they switch between cars when using a single model radio.  You could buy a 3PV or 4PV which are mid-range Futaba radios and use those same receivers that you already have.  The 3PV is a nice unit, small, works well, relatively affordable.  The 4PV is great, but with a price to match.

    My philosophy has always been that it's less expensive to buy high-quality items that are 'future-proof' rather than start off with the bare minimum.  Since there are already multiple cars involved, it only makes sense to have a radio which can handle it.  I'll check into the prices on those other two models.

    4 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

    ESC - what motor do you want to run?  If you want fast, then look at brushless.  I buy sensored brushless but there are some cheap sensorless brushless combos around which people seem to have a lot of luck with.  Look for Surpass Hobby or GoolRC.

    For now, my plan is to run the stock motors on everything.  I figure I'll have a hard enough time controlling these things, so the extra power/speed would be an impediment rather than an improvement.  However, going back to purchasing 'future-proof' items, it would make more sense to get brushless ESC with sensors so I don't have to replace those in the future.

    Then again, those things are really expensive.  LOL

    Thanks again!

    • Like 2

  6. One other thing...

    What brands should I look at?  I bought Futaba because that's what I had as a kid and that was the best around at the time, so it's a name I recognize and the reviews I've read seem to indicate it's still a top-quality brand.

    Any advice you can give regarding brand, type, etc. would be greatly appreciated.  I bought from Amazon, so returns are free.

    • Like 1

  7. So, I bought a kit.  NO... not three.  Stop accusing me of buying three.

    Looking at the TT02 Audi Quattro Rallye A2 (58667), it says I need a "2-channel R/C unit with electronic speed controller".  Not knowing any better, I just picked a receiver:  Futaba R203GF S-FHSS 3Ch 2.4GHz Receiver because I figured it would be compatible with my radio, which is a Futaba 3PRKA 3-Channel 2.4GHz Radio FHSS System.

    I can't see in the specs where that receiver has a built-in ESC.

    My XV-01 Lancia... I mean... I have this friend who has an XV-01 Lancia (58569).  It has the same requirement and that friend might also have a 3PRKA radio and may have also bought a R203GF receiver.

    But the Candy Green Grasshopper (47348) that ... um.. yeah, this other friend has.. well, it says it comes with an TBLE-02 Tamiya ESC.

    So, I am totally confused.

    And... uh.. so are those two friends of mine.

    Are the ESC and receiver two separate parts or do some receivers have an ESC built in?

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  8. @Superluminal- Thanks for the response.

    Well , the XV-01 chassis alone is hard to find (except for on eBay for stupid prices).  I can get the Lancia Delta Integrale XV-01 4WD Kit (TAM58569) for about $250.

    Maybe get that for rally and get a different body for the TT-02 and use it as a on-road only?

    There are SO many more options now; it's hard to figure them all out.

     

    • Like 1

  9. A little bit of background:  I had a Grasshopper way back in the 80s as a kid.  The car I always wanted was the Audi Quattro because I thought it looked cool and I really enjoyed watching rally racing.

    Well, a buddy convinced me to get back into this hobby, so of course the first thing I buy is the Audi.  I was a little surprised to find it's an on-road.

    I'd like to convert it to a rally car, but I am so new to this, I'm not sure what that even means or where to begin.  I know the TT-02 chassis is very flexible, and from what I understand, the Type S is an improvement.

    I read @Prescient's excellent topic below - 

    So, if I have the TT-02, it looks like I need to 'upgrade' it to the TT-02 S:

    • FRP suspension arms (51297)
    • FRP axle uprights (51293 / 51352 )
    • FRP suspension mounts (14305646 / 14305647)
    • Metal 12mm hex wheel adapters (53056)
    • Super Mini CVA  Shocks (50746)
    • full ball bearings
    • adjustable threaded turnbuckles and steering arms
    • steel suspension mounts (54634)
    • For the TT-02D Type S variant, the Tamiya aluminium propeller shaft (54501) and propeller joints (54502)

    I can only find the TT-02 Type S chassis (58600) on Tamiya's website at a whopping $256.  Sold separately at rcmart.com, unless otherwise stated:

    • FRP suspension arms (51297) - $4.90
    • FRP axle uprights (51293 / 51352 ) - $3.20/$7.99 (51352 on eBay)
    • FRP suspension mounts (14305646 / 14305647) - Unable to find
    • Metal 12mm hex wheel adapters (53056) - $4.50
    • Super Mini CVA  Shocks (50746) - $10.90
    • full ball bearings - $7.90 (although I bought rubber sealed bearings from Fast Eddy @ $15.99)
    • adjustable threaded turnbuckles and steering arms ($17.24) - Amazon
    • steel suspension mounts (54634) - $24.50
    • For the TT-02D Type S variant, the Tamiya aluminum propeller shaft (54501) and propeller joints (54502) $4.50/$5.40

    So, the total for the upgrade is $81.54 plus $30.21 shipping (shipping on the Tamiya kit is free, at the moment).

    The FRP suspension mounts aren't available anymore, it seems.  So, I've looked at the steel set - 54634 @ $24.50.

    Does this sound about right?

     

     


     

     

    • Like 1
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