Sgt.Speirs

One week later, the countersunk holes in the sub chassis plate are drilled and I could started with the final assembly. I also updated the upper bracket once again. I thicken the transition between the two mountings and I re-designed the front spacer to avoid rotating without using 2-component adhesive (lower bracket on the picture below). Assembling… And then another part arrived...the milled sub chassis plate in carbon fiber

After two busy weeks at work and preparation of my son‘s birthday I found today time to continue the project. I knew that I hardly find time in the last weeks and played with the idea to let the sub chassis plate milling by a local company. But I decided to do it manually…this time with no electric tools (except the drilling machine). The rough shape with the hacksaw… …the fine shape with the fret saw… …and the final step with different files. The plate fits! Drilling the holes is planned for tomorrow.

@bavee: I don’t want to promise too much, but may be there will be a option for the future…but for this I will only play a supporting role for the guy who will make this available

I love this truck and picked up one month ago a Nissan King Cab chassis to re-build it as a Hi-Lux Monster Racer. Due to the ball diff is also defect, my current project is to integrate a modern gearbox with slipper clutch into the chassis…

The next projects for restoration arrived today... A Dyna Blaster… …and a TRF414M

@Honza: I have overseen this detail. But maybe this explains the usage of the different shims. Maybe there is somebody with a TD4 chassis can meassure the diff width from bearing (1510) to bearing

@Honza: I see there no difference or a offset bearing on the ball diffs. Only the shims are different (TRF201: 0.1mm on both sides, TD4: 2x 0.2mm on both sides). Or do you meant something else? @Collin: You have to see what a RC car from the 90s not will be in 2022...a car for bashing. So making big jumps or flying through the air with this car is not the intention for this modification. But you're right there are materials which would be more suitable. On the other side, for the first loop/prototype non-professional FDM parts are sufficient (in my point of view). Regarding the stress loads on the FDM parts, I see this not so pessimistic. The brackets have to handle mostly compressive loads. The upper bracket is planar flush with the chassis, so vertical stress loads will be deflect (correct expression?) to the chassis and will not generate (big) deformation/torsion of the bracket itself. Vertical stress loads = loads from the suspension introduced via the sub-chassis/FRP plate or loads directly onto the sub-chassis/FRP plate Green the FDM parts, orange the screws/fasteners. For horizontal stress loads (hard landing onto the motor guard) should be split into the sub-chassis and into the upper bracket. In this load case, the gear case itself is also a supporting element for the upper bracket. So hopefully also no (big) deformation/torsion of the bracket itself. Disclaimer: These are my assumtions and no results of a stress analysis (FEM)

@Honza: I bought already the ball diff as separate components (same part numbers as in the Super Avante manual) and the ball diff fits into the TRF gear case. So I assume that the complete ball diff as spare part will be the same. EDIT: I bought for the ball diff the spare part numbers of the Super Avante and also the slipper clutch (TA-22031). They fit…

That was my goal/incentive...a alternative transmission with Tamiya only parts (except spacer/brackets). Maybe at the end of this conversion/mod there is a special TRF gear case with attachments for the King Cab/Hilux MR chassis available. And also the corresponding „sub chassis“ (FRP plate). We will see…

And the final bottom spacer for the rear... Next step is to modify the FRP plate to fit the motor guard.

The upper bracket is modified. I have also to modify the front spacer. The new bracket was too thin to cut a thread in. Now the spacer is pressed in from the bottom side and locked vertical via the flange. Additional 2-component adhesive prevent that the spacer can rotate inside the bracket. The thread goes through the complete spacer. And the bracket mounted on the gear case. And the new rear bottom spacer is currently in printing.

That ordered TRF201 B-part tree arrived today. Also some spare parts as reserve. The first impression looks good, also the bottom side. I‘m very confident that the motor guard, the modified FRP plate and bottom spacer (rear) will work fine

@Goudar: ThunderDragonCy designed a gear case for a TRF201/DN01 in which the TA06 gear diff can be used. Normally you can use in a TRF201 gear case only the ball diff. The gear case of ThunderDragonCy and/or the original TRF201 (TA 19004269) will NOT work without any modifications/or additional parts with the King Cab/Hilux Monster Racer chassis. @ThunderDragonCy: Please correct me if I am wrong.

@ThunderDragonCy: The cover has a inner diameter of 46mm, the 79T spur gear a outer diameter of 42.7mm. Not much space for a bigger spur gear, but as a last resort an option. Thanks Edit: Do you have informations about the outer diameter of these spur gears?

As mentioned yesterday the current issue. The motor can clashs with the suspension pin. With a 20T pinion gear (10.27:1 gear ratio), the pinion gear don't reach the spur gear: I don't have any other pinion gears here with more teeth to test which fits. But I also don't want to use higher pinion gears due to the gear ration will be out of range as for the King Cab Chassis proposed ratio (from 1:10.30 to 1:13.93). With shimming the complete gear case by 1mm the pinion gear fits better in the spur gear, but not 100% perfect. I have decided to move additionally the rear suspension brackets 2mm in forward direction (and decrease the wheel base by 2mm). Then pinion gear and spur gear fits perfect. In this case (creating a new FRP plate) I can also implement the attachement of the motor guard. I think about a small notch in the FRP plate for the TRF201 motor guard and a longer bottom spacer on the rear side of the gear case. Then I can mount the motor guard with the bottom spacer/FRP plate. @jonboy1: I go forward with the standard TRF201 ball differential. It's the same (should be the same) as the ball diff for the Super Avante (22025 - TD4 Ball Differential Set, as spare part this year/spring available). But thanks for the infos about alternative gear diff solutions