Sgt.Speirs

@Anthroxoid I think @ruebiracer wants to say that there are no „long“ HiCaps. There are only „Mini“ (TA-53036) and „Short“ (TA-53037). Tamiya Guidebook The difference in length (of the short HiCaps) is done on the Top Force Evo. via spacer inside the damper housing. On the other side uses the Egress in the front the „Mini“ HiCaps.

To emphasize the difference to my gearbox...with this you replace the complete internal gear parts, slipper and diff by available spare parts (especially the capability to use the TA06 oil gear diff which reduce the maintenance of the diff to a minimum) But thumbs up for your idea with the motor pinion 👍🏻

I also used the middle hole for the dampers.

@ruebiracer: The weather was great and the atmosphere was excellent 😊 And the gearbox also ran smoothly and without issues. But I struggled with the track, especially with the small double-jump after the big overpass. Maybe the different gear ratio (compared with the config last year) was the reason why I didn't get this section so well. But let me explain it in a nice way…now I‘m a professional in exchanging front hubs and rear suspension blocks 😉

I have to precise: I had not issues with my Manta Ray. I only struggled with the loosy suspension of this 30 years old car 😁

Today is the day we have the first meeting/event on the outdoor track in Laupheim. Weather is fine and the anticipation too My Dyna Blaster is prepared in Tamico Offroad Cup spec (except the original plastic chassis)… …and the DIY polycarbonate undertray is installed: Let‘s have some fun with my Tamiya buddies @wtcc5 and @Quincy.

I used for my FF01 the out drives with p/n 54183. Are there any differences compared with the original ones (p/n 9805468) respectively p/n 9805502? And otherwise, as always, great work!

I could finally create and upload the video of the assemby of the gearbox... PS: It's a video from an designer/engineer and not from a professional video editer

If you mean you're missing the J7 part...I could help out here:

@bsy2010: In this case no competitior...I will only compete in the truck class.

In which class do you want to start in Laupheim...only for information for me if you are a competitior for me or not

The Tamico Offroad Cup last year was my first racing event ever and a great experience 👍🏻 Unfortunately the driving distance and date don’t work well for me, although the (dirt) track in Kinzigtal looks great. My current planning is to attend at the event in Laupheim (September 14th/15th) and there is a chance for the event in Augsburg (August 24th/25th ). But AFAIK is in Kinzigtal a good chance to meet Quincy and/or wtcc5 😊 Cheers, Thomas

The question which you must answer for yourself could be "Is your Astute differential worn out and you want a replace it in a cost-efficient way?" or "I want to replace the fragile diff/gearbox by a modern one with better spare support + a slipper clutch and the higher costs are not so relevant"

I like your work from an engineer's point of view. But to be honest, I would rather see this equipment in a (non-Tamiya) scaler/crawler than in King Cab/Monster Racer 😊

This transparent gearbox parts look awesome! Looks similar to these rare TA03F clear gearbox parts.

Last weekend the weather was excellent and I decided to do a first test run (complete 4000 mAh lipo battery) on tarmac in front of my house. Everything was fine: The car drove great and gearbox ran smoothly and without issues…great feeling. In the next time I will do further runs and will check after that the gear wheels for wear before I will go on the race track.

@Kol__: Sorry, I overread that you „changed the mounting hardware“. Ball nuts are great, threated hole or drilled hole makes IMO no difference in durability👍🏻

Instead of cutting threads, I would suppose to use a long screw with a ball nut (e.g. TA-53599). Should be more durable… 😊

Awesome looking car with this blue Lipo battery 😍

When you use some black and golden paint, the original wheels look not so bad as shown 😜

@davidsen: The gearbox looks great in your Saint Dragon😊 Do you have a picture from your self-printed gearbox cover?

160€ + Import taxes here in Germany = ~190€ You’re right with your view what they are…milled parts. But they are expensive for me and the benefit in my case. The only weak point for my use cases are the rear suspension blocks. And for 190€ I can print a lot of these parts. At the end you strengthen one part and the next weaker part breaks. And it‘s better a cheap (and easy to source) part will break than another one (e.g. suspension arm, chassis plate,…). PS: Merry Christmas!🎄 😊

Yes, I measured out the positions of all screw holes of the plastic chassis and transfered these to a carbon chassis. In this case, the carbon chassis also works with the original parts (bulkhead, front bumper/kick-up plate,...) and I could derive additional carbon plates for the plastic chassis (which is mandatory for the Tamico Cup) from this "master chassis": Like the Mandalorians say: „This is the way!“ 😁

@Kol__: The chassis parts were manufactured by a company here in Germany which provide a milling service. Regarding alloy parts…to be honest I thought about alloy parts (bulkhead, rear suspension blocks), but the these parts on eb*y are expensive (although they are looking amazing). The bulkhead D5 and the kick-up E4 have already been replaced by self-printed parts in PA (FDM) and both survived the Tamico Off-Road Cup without any problems. And for the rear suspension blocks I went with parts in PA12 (MJF). So currently are only the suspension arms, the steering knuckle arms and the front body mount original (plastic) parts😜

@Kol__: That is definitely the case/plan