Sgt.Speirs

The TA02 chassis is ~ 10mm shorter than the TA01/DF01. In case of using the TA02 carbon conversion kit you have also buy the TA02 short propeller shaft (p/n 19805901), the rear/front damper stays (p/n 3404106 & 3404105) and the front damper stay mount (J10 from the Top Force j parts tree - p/n 19115041). And may be some other parts which I don’t remember😬 In general, the TA02 carbon chassis is narrower than the Top Force carbon chassis. So a standard battery will protrude on both sides. My opinion…wait for the re-release Top Force in 2024 and take the needed parts and use the not needed parts as spare parts. Or buy a Top Force Evo and do the same or sell the not needed parts.

Hello and welcome back, my friend Great worklog for the Christmas time... Do the Egress tyres fit onto the star dish wheels respectively did you really get the tyres onto the wheels? I thought the Egress wheels (as well as the Avante and Manta Ray wheels) are smaller in the diameter as the star dish wheels or the newer wheels for the dual block tyres🤔 Great idea to avoid lifting of the upper gearbox cover👍🏻 I think the amount of grease will be no issue...it's more important (IMO) that you didn't use the standard metal gear of the Top Force and used the full-plastic spur gear instead.

I call it "Astute 201"

With the shocks, I wanted to go the TRF417V5 respectively bigbore damper way with the bleed screw in the top cap: And installed on the chassis: Wheels and gearbox cover in Astute design… …and the cutted body (TRF201) and rear wing (Astute / Egress): And a quick shot from the current status/design: Next step…painting!

Hello, as I did before for the transmission conversion for my King Cab/Hilux Monster Racer, I also want to separate build thread and transmission conversion of my Dyna Blaster. So the transmission section will not be mixed anymore with the restoration section. In this thread I can also offer a better and clear support for interested customers and can answer questions regarding the gearbox, parts list, manual or assembly. For pictures from the installed gearbox in a Dyna Blaster / Dyna Strom, please visit my build log/thread: Sgt.Speirs' Dyna Blaster Parts list for this modification: 1x 3D printed gearbox parts from Shapeways (latest rev. 1.0): >> Dyna Blaster TRF201x Gear Box & Rear Hubs v1.0 << / >> Dyna Blaster TRF201x Gear Box Only v1.0 << 1x 54471 TA06 Steel Gear Diff. Unit Rear 1x 22031 TD4/TD2 Slipper Clutch Set 1x 53587 Shim 5x0.2mm (1 needed) 1x 13454709 Idler Shaft (alternatively: 54344) 1x 72001* Idler Gear 31T (48DP) - Team Associated DR10M Metal Idler Gear, 31T 1x 19805957 Screw 3x10mm (or standard M3 countersunk screw) 1x 19805763 Screw 3x10mm (or standard M3 panhead screw) 1x 9805989 Screw 3x15mm (or standard M3 panhead screw) 1x 53577 Urethane bushing (red) 1x 53588 Ø10 mm Shim Set (optional parts for shimmimg the gear diff) 1x 42115 Ball bearings 1510 (2 needed) 2x 42113 Ball bearings 1050 (3 needed) 1x 42113 Ball bearings 840 (1 needed) *) Team Associated Spare Parts Number Optional parts: 1x 51314 Tamiya 48DP 91T Spur Gear (optional part for gear ration settings) 1x 51714 Tamiya 48DP 86T Spur Gear (optional part for gear ration settings) Manual for the assembly: Gearbox Assembly - Dyna201 Manual_v1.0.pdf

1. I‘m too young (40) to know 4-wire-servos😉 2. Slow spec servos don‘t get faster with higher voltage…buy a new one with the requested specs.

No, I would suggest to run normal 3-wire servos with this receiver😉 Are they slow because the are slow from their specs?

Some additional questions: Are these connectors on the ESC not for the fan? What is the output voltage of this connector and is it compatible with the servo? Did you check this behavior with a second servo? I have also some vintage electronics but see no need to connect the servo directly with the power supply/ESC:

Is the ESC also connected to the receiver/RX? What type of receiver is it? And which ESC?

Maybe I didn’t understand your setup correctly, but normally is the servo connected to the receiver. I know it (only) from crawlers with high torque servos which have an input voltage higher than 7.2V and which can be connected directly with the power supply. Can you show us the overall view of the electrics?

I can confirm that motor… Edit: But I would prefer more Hop-Up Option No. 2 😜

@IXLR8: Awesome work! Did you create everything from scratch or with help of tools (3D scanner,...)?

Because of my Dyna Blaster project and the participation on the Tamico Offroad-Cup, my TRF201 project was a little neglected. Until now...I started last week with the deassembling and cleaning of all the parts. The spare parts and hop-up options list became a little bit longer during the summer In this building loop I will use much of the scratched original parts because I want to drive this car first on the local tracks. But for the future I'm ready for building a shelf queen For this build log I have decided against a step-by-step documentation as I have did for the models before and concentrate mainly on the building steps that deviate from the manual. First deviation is the J5 part in step 5. I will use instead the "TRF Aluminum Rear Suspention Mount XA": For the gearbox, I will use the silver aluminum motor plate and not the blue anodized one...this is matching more with the Astute design. Build into the chassis: Unfortunately is the alloy variant of the "TRF201 Aluminum Suspension Mount (3.0, Rear)" (TA-54243) currently not available, so I have to use the plastic part J1. There is an alternative part on e.bay with toe-in adjustment options, but not now... The steering is stock, but I like the in the steering arms integrated servo saver: On the front suspension I use the "TRF Suspention Weight Block (5°)" instead of the J6 part: And build into the chassis: And that's all for today...

@wtcc5 Is there in 2024 a new class for „neo vintage“ cars like this?😜

@_Ben_: My first thoughts, „wow…cool black TRF201 mod and how did he get all these parts black?“😂 Presumably because I have in my TRF201 the same servo: But this is a Kyosho Dirt Master, isn‘t it?

That would also be my recommendation if you (@07LowRider) don't need the gear box parts from the a-parts tree.

@mtbkym01: The Dyna Storm is one of the iconic Tamiya 2WD racing buggies and worth any price😜

Original and re-re kits are identical except the bearings (steering, clutch & diff bearings). In case of this DS has bearings in the steering, I would think it‘s a re-re. Or changed every DS owner in 90s these metal bushings against bearings?🤔 I‘ve paid for my re-re in 2020 with box and pink re-re motor 250€. Today I would estimate (only the car w/o motor) in this condition 400€ an up (depending how insane the buyer is) 😉

It looks like a normal gearbox of a King Cab chassis… …but there is a bigger difference on the left side: After the TRF201 transmission conversion in 2022 could this be the „BBX transmission conversion“ (with BBX slipper clutch) in 2024 😁 Not finished, but the detail design phase started.

Holy Moly! Excellent work!👍🏻

The Dragster Brushed 70A is NO re-branded HW1060. They have copied the outer design very well, but behind the cover the electronics are different.

Unfortunately I have no spare parts of the servo horn, but the dimensions (eye to eye): 15.5 mm

Hi @Collin, instruction step 25 respectively 26 in the TRF201 manual show the installation of the servo horn (part L7 / L8 depending on Tamiya, Futaba or Sanwa servo). Cheers

A worthy body for a TA03F David Jun Edition😊

@ruebiracer: Thanks, mate! I'm looking forward to the following tests over the next few months, which should show how reliable the gearbox really is. I also changed the motor/esc setup once again to put more strain on the gearbox…LRP 8.5T brushless combo (Spin Pro ESC and Vector K7 8.5T motor).