Sgt.Speirs

@Sogogi: Time to order the TRF201 Gearbox for the King Cap / Monster Racer 😜 @topic: Prepared, but there is still work for today.

Absolutely stunning work, mate!😍 I wish I had the time to re-build all the original parts in CAD to get a complete model. So I have to reduce the work on my blaster on the new parts… I‘m looking forward to the day when we drive together on the track 😁

Looks even more stunning in real than only in the 3D design 😍

Beside this King Cab for sale, I have a full restored Hilux Monster Racer and all parts to convert it to an King Cab (a King Cab body (badly painted but in good condition for restoration), a set of white King Cab rims, an additional pair of rear tires, King Cab body posts and a original decal set 😁 It‘s not the missing space, it’s more that I see no need to have more than one chassis of them. And to be honest, I have an original King Cab as permanent rental from a friend, which I can drive when I want. You see I‘m in a luxury situation 😜

Build the gearbox for a King Cab which will be sold in the next weeks😢 But that‘s the circle of RC. Some have to go to make room for new ones.

That was a great act by you and decided between second and third place for me…thanks again, mate 🙌🏻

So here we are 2 days after the Tamico Off-Road Cup near to my home town. In general, the Dyna Blaster was the dominant car in its (truck) class. The competitors with their Blitzer Beetle/Stadium Blitzer were near behind me, but only because I'm a newby in RC racing. In the hands of an experienced, the Dyna Blaster dominates all other. But later more. So I prepared my car as in my last post and did a training day with my mate @wtcc5 on a sunny day. And here we have short video from the track from my mate. I was a excellent day until my last run...I missed the big ramp after the wall and had a bigger impact on the rear suspension. All parts were ok, only the FRP plate got damaged: I have a spare part of the plate, but this is more for the future shelf queen restoration. So when I unloaded the RC stuff from my car, my neighbor asked me how the day on the track was. I told him the story and he meant „Give me the DXF file of the plate, than I can mill the plate in a material what you want!“. I have to say that my neighbor is a passionated RC aircraft/helicopter builder and pilot with a big tooling park in the cellar. Two day later we milled the part while drinking a beer, cheers! Due to 3 mm thick carbon was not available, I decided to use the 3 mm FRP material from a past project. In parallel, @wtcc5 designed a own carbon front shock tower...insane! And then it overcame me and had decided to preserve as much of the original parts as possible: J6 and J7 parts (stabilizer mount), ... ...E4 part (front bumper)... ...and E1 part (motor guard) And the result complete with electronics: Due to my family vacation I wasn’t able to test the setup once again on the race track. And than the Tamico Off-Road Cup started… Preparing for wet condition... And more Dyna's On Saturday the weather was fine and we could drove the race schedule as planned. Three free practice runs and four pre-runs (qualifying). I had to stop only one run each because of a broken suspension block (D2) after harder impact (driving error). They were still made in FDM technology, so I was not surprised about that. But we had enough spare parts with us On Sunday we had completed the fifth and final pre-race before the rain started for most of the day. So the race organizer decided to cancel the event and took the results of the pre-race as final result...2nd place with a little help from my race mate @wtcc5who made a superior first place. Picture of the winning cars from my tent/pavilion mates. If you are interested in this event, there are more pictures @Tamico or @blautal_rc_car_racer on Facebook or Instagram. And what's next? There is already some brainstorming how we can improve the Dyna Blaster for racing without wearing out original parts...stay tuned

@Addicted: Great build👍🏻 It reminds me of my TA03F David Jun which I had built two years ago and for which I found/bought yesterday the last missing part…the TA03 Aluminum Counter Shaft (53274) 😊

After a year, the Mercedes-Benz C11 is available again…welcome group c chassis.

@Kol__: Absolutely stunning Dyna Storm for a runner. I'm looking forward to your feedback on how it rides😊

The D5 bulkhead is also in FDM technology, but withstands the hole day without issues. But the D1, D2 and D5 parts in PA12 MJF ist the plan for the final race day. I'm working on it

Last weekend, @Quincy, @wtcc5, his dad and I had a great day in our sand pit. Quincy with his DB-01R, wtcc5’s dad with his Top Force and wtcc5 and I with our Dyna Blasters. After 10 min on the track and some wild rides over our small ramp, I detect this… The self-printed rear suspension mount fails. Fortunatelly had wtcc some spare parts/prints in his box, so the day was not over for me yet. Thanks buddy There were no further issues with his parts during the day. Some impressions of our great track…and the stunning DB-01R: I hope wtcc5 finds time and motivation to also make a video of the day with his captured footage Now it's time to clean the car and think about how to increase reliability.

Stunning work, mate! 👍🏻

Hi Collin, what spur gear is intended for this slipper clutch? The TRF201 spur gear should be too small (in diameter) to use it with the DS/DB gear box.

Today I have made the additional holes in the body at the rear. The body sits almost perfect on the chassis without play… Now once again install the electronics and then we look forward to Saturday...

At the weekend, the weather was bad, so I could finished the bracket for the rear body mount. As for bracket of the rear damper stay, I also used POM as raw material with my hand-milling machine... As body post I used battery mounting screws (TA-9805886) which are also used in my TB Evo 5. And as counterpart from the bottom I reused two press nuts (TA-19805827) from the Dyna Blaster. And finally installed on the damper bridge...a massive body mount 😁 By the way, I installed also a support rod between both damper screws because they protrude a little bit too much IMO. In between the body post is enough space to apply a foam that the body sits tight without play. As mentioned in my previous post, @wtcc5 and I will participate on the Tamico Offroad Cup with our Dyna Blasters. I hope the weather will be good on Saturday, then we/I will do a test run on our "sand pit" track.

To be on the safe side, you can also use the aluminum glass tape on the areas where the wheels come in contact with the body (as shown in the instruction manual)

Me, too. But no need to build due to my „Porsche Turbo RSR 934 Black Edition“ in white with Martini Livery is almost the same car 😁 @Silverado: Great build. It‘s pity that the resolution of the pics is so low….

@Collin: @Quincy participated in the first event and the inspection to see if the cars were align with the regulations was not very strict. Do you strongly recommend this support brace respectively do you think the Dyna Blaster plastic part breaks easily by a front impact (e.g. after a badly executed jump). Due to I have also a Dyna Storm I can switch easily on this FRP part if it's necessary (and if it will fit).

I had time today to test the new carbon damper stay and the „new“ universal shafts of my Dyna Blaster by making a „one battery pack“ run in my backyard.

@Collin: True words I couldn't resist reassembling the car and seeing if everything worked as it was intended. No issues during the reassembling… Due to mounting points for the upper suspension links on the carbon damper stay is now a few millimeters further back, I had to change sides (from back to front). And the weather was great this afternoon, so I drove one battery pack through my garden in „TAMICO Offroad-Cup“-setup with a Tamiya Torque Tuned motor and a HW 1060 esc. And everything works fine without any issues… …damper stays ok… …and also the universal shafts… The next test drive will be (hopefully) on the right race track.

From which manufacturer are these inserts? And of course, an awesome „Prachtlachs“! 😁

Hello together, after a long break there is an update. This thread was not about the restoration of my Dyna Blaster, it was titled "Fit to Run". Unfortunately, I drove in 2022 only a few laps in my garden...not more. In 2023, things are to be different. One reason is that TAMICO announced the „TAMICO Offroad Cup“ for hobby enthusiasts to drive their (plastic chassis) models from the 80s/beginning 90s on track. The Dyna Blaster is also approved in the 2WD truck class beside Blackfoots, Monster/Blitzer Beetles, Stadium Blitzer and King Cabs chassis. And after my local RC club (only 5 km away) decided to carry out also one race, there was no excuse to take not appart on this event On my Dyna Blaster I have already replaced some original parts which breaks easily to preserve them for a later restoration step: - Bulkhead D5 (FDM printed) - Rear suspension mounts D1 & D2 (FDM printed) - Front c-hubs L1 & L2 (MJF printed) - Rear hubs C1 & C2 (MJF printed) I also replaced the front damper stay by a carbon variant. The regulations of the TAMICO Offroad Cups only requires the original plastic chassis and the original lower suspension arms (on the other requirements I don’t want to go deeper, but you can read them here: TAMICO Offroad Cup). In this case I wanted to preserve more/other important parts: Universal shafts Rear damper stay 1.) Universal shafts The universals of the Dyna Blaster are relatively long (approx. 120 mm) and there are no alternative parts from Tamiya which could fit. For this reason, I have tried to find a combination of non-Tamiya parts which will fit the Dyna Blaster. Unfortunately I have not yet found a proper configuration which fit without any modifications. Current status/configuration is this: - Rear wheel axle, axle ring and shaft/pin from Yeah Racing - Swing shaft from Team Associated RC10T6.2 (91 mm) - Cross joint from cheap Alibaba universal shafts Issue 1: The end of the swing shaft didn’t fit into the Dyna Blaster diff out. So I have to re-work them... PRE: POST: Issue 2: Team Associated uses a thinner shaft/pin than Tamiya to connect the swing shaft with the wheel axle (1.8 mm vs. 2.0 mm. Since the pin transfer the complete force from the shaft to the axle I didn’t want any play there. In this case, I have widened the slot of the swing shaft. PRE: POST: Issue 3 (following from issue 2): Due to the 2 mm pin, the hole in the original Asso cross joint is too tight. Drilling out was not possible with my tools because the material is hardened steel. And I don’t want to use the Tamiya cross joints because they have a smaller outer diameter and will have play with the Asso swing shafts. To solve this issue, I replaced the cross joint by the one from the cheap Alibaba universal shafts. I don’t know if they will last as long as the Asso/Tamiya ones, but I will try this config first. And here is the current Frankenstein universal shaft for my Dyna Blaster: 2.) Rear damper stay The assembled universal shafts are slightly longer than the original ones. To make them fit, I had to use the next mounting hole of the rear hub. As a result, I also had to move the upper link mounting point to the next mounting hole on the rear damper stay. Since I had concerns that using the outer mounting hole would put more stress on the plastic part and making it easier to break, I decided to use a carbon part for that. Fortunately @Collin had one carbon damper stay for me I didn’t want to re-work the original part by removing the outer “ears” for the suspension, so I have to buy or create a mounting bracket without these “ears”. I decided to do the second option (create by myself) and borrowed a mini milling machine from a good friend to do it. The raw material (I wanted to use POM – polyoxymethylene) I got from another friend which owns a company specialized for plastic milling. And yes, I thought about to ask him to mill this, but in fact he’s very busy all the time, I don’t want to “waste” his time with some prototype things. POM on the left side, PETP in the middle/right side. Copied from the original, I started milling the outer geometry. Then I milled the inner geometry...the reinforcement walls remain: To do the final milling step, I (3D-)printed a mounting bracket to fix the part in the correct angle...I thought this. Picture after the milling step: At least I had to drill the holes for mounting the carbon damper stay respectively to mount the bracket with the gearbox. At the end I’m happy with the result of my first try, but I’m thinking about doing another one with some corrections... ...make the outer geometry 100% symmetrical. ...not remove so much material on the top by the chamfering (change the angle of my mounting bracket). That’s it for today. The next step is to mill a bracket for the new rear body mounts.

A friend of mine uses Hoosier tires on his Blitzer Beetle…

@Addicted: The width of a TA01 and a TA02 should be the same. However, I'm not sure if you'd still have the exact same wheelbase if you swapped the entire front end of a TA02 for a TA01 (or vice versa).