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Smokeylocc420

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Everything posted by Smokeylocc420

  1. Mrowka I was thinking the same with shimming it! But do you know why this is the situation? Do the rere use like 15mmx10mmx4mm bearings or something? I looked for a rere online assembly manual with no luck! EDIT! Mrowka!! It looks like the rere uses 10x15!! So I'm going to shim these lil guys! Thanks!
  2. So I have some Optima diffs and they have the standard 14x8x4mm bearings, but when I tried to put them in a diff case, they are a bit smaller than what the cases can fit. I think I might have older diffs, and new rere cases, the bearings hollows are about 15mm? I used a caliper to measure. Did a search for bearings and could only find the 14mm variants...can anyone who is familiar advise?
  3. I couldn't find any caps, but thank you for the mentioning of it.
  4. So tonight, I touched one of the new mosfets to the solder tabs on the suspect single mosfet tab, and I was able to make the motor go in reverse.
  5. Thank you all for pitching in! It means a lot to me! I ordered some solder removing wick and flux pen to possibly operate. So on another note, the case slots where the cooling fins protrude out from (in order to mount the sinks to the fins) one was kinda melted. I wonder if that one FET blew....it's the one by itself. (reverse or brake)? Once again, fingers crossed it's not the microprocessor.
  6. I hope it's not a microprocessor this is a Novak 610 HRV (not a Novak 610RV) it uses "Hyperfets" (Novak-coined term) versus Megafets.
  7. Is it the FETs? This vintage esc has full forward throttle. It does not have either brake or reverse. I opened it up, thinking that the culprit would be easily identified by a scorch/burn, but nothing appears out of the ordinary...I assumed that three of the FETs all together are forward, while the two closest together on the left would be brake, the one by itself on the right is reverse. I could be wrong. Any input from the vintage heads? Heres a pic...The brain board is removed fyi... I have three new FETs waiting as soon as I find the bad. One way is to probe for juice on the good ones, but I see both positive voltage and neg at the motor wires, positve 7.4v on full throttle, neg around 1.5v on reverse, so I know it's gotta be one or more bad FETs... Thanks
  8. Gonna stay stock cans for now, with a Novak Supah Roostah using some sub-c nimh 4200 9 cell pack (might try an 880 esc down the way)
  9. Real nice, can I ask where you got them blue anodized knuckles/uprights?
  10. Nice can you post more pics of The MI Ice Monster inside on a table to show off the lowered stance?
  11. Wooders, Thank you very much for the heads up. Think I'm gonna try out mine a bit, it's been pretty bad weather as of late, but it's starting to clear up.
  12. I got some monstah horsepowah motors but neither are reverse rotation, are they preset at zero timing you think? Or are you referring to the revenge of the monster?
  13. I always wanted a Midnight Pumpkin.. I think the Clodbuster/Bullhead are MTs for sure, the MB& Blackfoot kinda.
  14. Sorry I had fun with the title haha Anywho, I got a vintage Novak SR and stock Mabuchis...I hear these can rip if powered decently, but does anyone have any suggestions for other motors? I read pros/cons about Titan 550s and HPIs, but any old school motors come to mind? I'd like to run at least 9 cells (NIMH 4200mah sub c) which the SR can handle... Thanks in advance. EDIT: Woops, sorry for asking...I just saw Paulyj's thread, gonna start there haha.
  15. Thanks Wooders! I just JB Welded the crap outta them, I don't see them breaking soon. Lotta snow & salt outside so I'm staying dormant for the time being. As soon as it dries up I'm bustin a move!
  16. Sosidge thanks for the reply!...yea I tried that already they don't fit without possibly dremelling out the wire holes which would potentially ruin the sweet sweet orange case that I'm so fond of haha. I run one of the 610s in my Ultima Pro on 2s and it's got a California Motorworks (10t I think) motor and it's pretty quick, but the other one I wanna put into my Optima, running an OG 240s...I know it can handle 10 cells, but the Elite 5A sub c cells are no longer available (those were sweet) there's an outfit in Canada that sells 4.2A sub c cells but at 5.79 US a piece kinda pricey. https://www.onlybatteries.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=14497.30&cat1=52&uid=1665 I know I know...brushless is the thing now, but there is, to me anyways, something very special about keepin it "oldschool" especially the sound of brushed motors, the maintenance of the motors, all of it.
  17. King Clodbuster>all other monster trucks (except the TXT1)
  18. A bit late to the party, but want to tell you that that's sick!! (sick=cool) It pops proper! I use shoe goo for lexan cracks, works well.
  19. It has puny 16g wire, is that enough for the 10-cell capability of this esc? I opened one up, and the wires are soldered onto equally small pads on the board, so has anyone done a wire upgrade? One thought is to cut the wires about 1cm from the box and solder in 14g wire, but the bottleneck is that 1cm of 16g, but being that the inside is running small trace leads, shouldn't matter, right? Or is this a foolish thought? Should I leave it be at 16g?
  20. So guys...I added the proper front end equipment like the shock tower and Andy bumper, also a wing. Made mount out of some steel wire.
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