DPR250R

Hmmm… it looks like they are the same as the Boomerang and maybe more. I would keep an eye out on ebay… some will show up. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Boomerang-Supershot-Hot-Shot-Aluminum-Drive-Shaft-Bones-ANSWER-Hop-Up-RC-/303820623999?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 I am not sure if new style bones would fit in older cups… maybe someone else can chime in there. If they do… they are easy to find. If you post the car on ebay for sale please DM me… it is the next on my wish list.

Is it important to keep the parts original? It is pretty easy to upgrade to new outdrives, shafts and stub axles. Parts off the new re-re’s are all over.

How is that drill method working out for you? I have read both sides… from don't ever clean up a comm like that… to you’ll get close to all your power back.

I can speak to the Fox. I have been watching them for about a year and bought 2. I paid $140 last year for the first one and $160 a couple weeks ago for the second. They are both vintage and the first one was in MUCH better shape but still had cracks in the standard spots. Seems like you will be spending at least $140 for a somewhat decent complete vintage Fox. I do think it’s a good time to buy with spares and choice of buying vintage and restoring or just going the re-release route.

Wow... really awesome.. thanks so much for sharing!!

I too re-joined the hobby about a year ago. I have the DF03 and I got my son the TT02B. After a year of failure and upgrades I have my opinion of both. The DF03 is a “better” buggy in my opinion but it seems like aftermarket parts are getting hard to find. The ball diffs and tight tub make it a little tough on beginners. It has a reputation for being fragile and I have already snapped a rear gearbox and damper support. I have spent a decent amount of time and money on mine and it sure is fun to drive... just so smooth and in control. I cross my fingers it keeps on going. The TT02B has low ground clearance which bothered me so I got DF03 dampers and the Tamiya Hop Up supports as well as larger diameter tires. This helped tremendously. I also wanted it to go a little quicker so I went brushless. That led to me being paranoid about the diffs so I converted to oil filled. IMO this thing rips… its just an angry little ******. I turn the travel down for my son. I really have fun with both. I would say if you are into the “hunt” for parts and like to fix bugs… DF03. If you want to buy… hop up and abuse then TT02B. Bringing them both to an indoor clay track for the first time this weekend. Curious to see how long they go before breaking… lol.

Looks like the GF-01 is part# 50808 which is the same as what I ordered and James recommended… thank you for the additional option! I hope my master plan comes together. I normally don’t stray to far from the manual but this site is a bad influence… lol

Ok... looks like the TL01 uses the 50823 axles stock... ordered up these longer ones... thank you @InsaneJim69

So... you mean I could have just googled "Tamiya Long Wheel Axle" instead of starting an new thread? ... Ok.. dumb question #2... Would you know if they fit TA01 uprights?

Hey everybody... looking for axles with same specs as what comes with the Re-Re Dark Impact / Boomerang (and I would imagine many more) but longer so I can fit thicker wheel hex adapters. There are some larger hex adapters that come with the TT-02B D Parts tree (unused for TT-02B) but I couldn't find axles that pair with them. Can anyone recommend anything?

So… after a couple minutes running today it quit again. I had the new motor anyway so I soldered it in. Runs amazing. With the old motor… I tested it and it has an open circuit when checking from pole A to B. Going to assume a broken winding, loose connection, broken solder joint, etc in the motor. It was $33 so not the end of the world. My sons car got upgraded from 13.5 to 10.5 turns in the process… lol

So after a mental break… I decided to reset the new esc and start over. I set up my throttle end points and what do you know? Its working without the sensor wire connected (the 10BL). Just ripped it around for a while and it seems good. I do notice the lack of control when first taking off without the sensor wire connected but my son won’t care. I didn't have a spare brushless to check the TBLE I replaced so I used a brushed motor to check it… and it worked. I assume that means I didn't fry it. Things are pointing to something sensor related on the motor so I am going sensor less and moving on. After all this… one thing I learned is that a sensored motor can be used in sensor less mode if the ESC can handle it… which is pretty cool. Thanks everyone for jumping in and helping!

Some more notes... Soldered in the 10BL120 and fired everything up. When hitting the throttle with the sensor wire connected no reaction from the motor. With it disconnected the motor at least responds to the throttle... but it kind of sputters and its not right. In fear of damaging the brand new ESC... I just called it quits and ordered a motor. Both the TBLE and the 10BL light up with the throttle like they are supposed to... so I assume the receiver is ok. I am just a little baffled/discouraged because I thought BL motors were pretty bulletproof.

New ESC didn’t fix it. Ordered new motor.

Yup… will keep and eye out for everything you mentioned in your post. Very helpful!! I just reset the ESC to brushless and re-seated the sensor wire. Still same issue. Maybe sensorboard on motor? Will start with ESC and report back.

Thank you… that is the kind of input I was looking for. I already have a 10BL120 ordered for this car. I didn't want to plug it in and have a bad motor fry the new ESC. I am done with this TBLE… it doesn’t owe me anything.

Any reason why you dont want to use the HW1060? I have used that with my TZ without issue. I did have something go haywire once but it was my TZ comm getting dirty that turned out to be the culprit. Maybe compare those specs to the HW1060 given we know the 1060 can handle it.

Thanks everyone. I am not really worried about the TBLE…. was moving away from it anyway. Was curious about the chance that if the motor was bad… will it take out a new esc? Through your experience when swapping things around… have you ever fried a new esc because of a bad motor?

Hi again all... Setup: TT-02B with TBLE-02S ESC and 13.5 Turn BL Motor was running 6Cell NiMH. This is my sons car and I was ripping it around in my back yard and was thinking... this thing is really nice and reliable... then the motor stopped working. Steering but no go. I do not know if the motor is bad or the ESC. The ESC will start blinking fast (seems like two colors) after a plug and unplug of the battery then full throttle. I had a HW BL ESC on order anyway cause I wanted to switch to LIPO without worry. My question is... would it be a big risk to attach the new ESC to the motor and give it a try without knowing if it is the motor or ESC that went bad? Just dont want to send another $50 down the drain... Thanks

I bought some old but new packs to break them apart and reconfigure. They were so dead my smart charger would not recognize them. I ended up buying a radio shack slow charger and and letting them sit on it for an hour or so. Went back over to the smart charger… good to go!

Wow... what a nice find!!! I really like my DF-03 and I think it handles nice and is fun to drive but I don't have the experience of other members here. I paid $145 plus $75 shipping for my DF-03 from RCMart to the US as a comparison for you. Also... I would be willing to buy all those parts from you if you decide to bail on the DF-03. Good luck with your build!

I have the Venom version of that charger. I recently built some packs in a custom configuration for a friend. The cells I used were new but very old... then I went to charge then with that charger... got the same error. I bought a trickle charger and trickle charged them for a little... then tried again. They have been fine since. Dumb question... did you set the charge amperage to 0.1 AMPS? I would think for that pack you should be at 2.0.

I felt like mine were like that as well. I used some softer springs that seemed to help.

Not sure which you are referring to but they both seem to be hardened? I am super excited to get this done but am going to take my time. Right now DF-03 slippers are expensive and I don't want to mess up the shaft. Will document and share for sure but it will most likely be pretty much the same as what @Juhunio did. The aluminum mainshaft bits all over the nylon diff gear really bother me.