DPR250R

Looks like they are back in stock... just got mine today! https://www.rwracing.co.uk/product/tamiya-df-03-main-shaft-gear-6-module-18t-12mm-wide On the left is the pinion from RW Racing. On the right is a helicopter pinion I found on the HobbyKing site that might work. I ordered it prior to noticing RW Racing had them back in stock. The HobbyKing pinion slides right on... not a press fit and tooth width is narrower. Not sure if it will work but was going to give it a shot as I am not a fan of the aluminum bits falling off the OEM gear. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-0-6m-hardened-steel-helicopter-pinion-gear-5mm-shaft-18t.html

Looks like a Fox owner bolted his left over parts together. If you are wanting to end up with a complete Fox I would wait and be prepared to spend $100+ for something that would be a better starting point.

Here is a vid that demonstrates what I was seeing with the "no reaction to throttle... give it a bump and it goes"..... at about the 1:20 mark... so it seems more and more like the motor was the culprit (either dirty comm or worn brushes... I am leaning towards dirty comm given the conditions I drive it in and the motor having really low hours).

Couple weeks ago... I bought the last couple available through Amazon (US).

These showed up on Amazon in the US and I scooped up 4 of them. They fit my Boomerang, TT-02B and DF-03 without issue.

Hello, Looking for a worn DF-03 slipper mainshaft. I am in the US. Please let me know if you have anything. Thanks

I just went through this with my sons TT02B. I ended up with DF03 damper set, Tamiya Front and Rear Carbon Towers and larger diameter wheels. To me... its like a new buggy. I love it. Will post pics if I get a minute.

Yes... I did see that technique!! I may pop it back apart to sand the comm when I wire up the the 1060 capacitors. I am going to go the BEC route and run the servo wire to the capacitors between the motor and chassis over to the same side as the steering servo... where I will end up mounting them. So the rear gearbox will be coning off again at that point anyway. I really do like the way the SS motors look and preform as well. But I think this is the buggy that I will drive the most as I have a little hit (jump) in my backyard that is so fun to launch it over. I think the mud/dirt is not good for the TZ and would think a BL motor would be a little easier to keep clean/going. BTW... your advice of a 13.5 Surpass Rocket with the TBLE-02S worked a treat with an old Boomerang I decided to bring back to life.

@Wooders28, @Juhunio, @Dressed4succes, @Jonathon Gillham You might not know me as I am a newbie but you have all contributed to this build. The knowledge you have shared throughout this forum been invaluable to me and I am so happy with the way the buggy turned out. I had planned to put some big post together with pics and all but reality has set in and I just need to share what I can. @DeadMeat666 asked for a pic so it gives me the opportunity to post what I can and say thanks before life gets in the way. First... a couple build pics... nothing new... Never built a diff before... and didn't even know what @Wooders28 was talking about when he told me to get an extra set of front out drives and put them in the back. Sweet... got that done... didn't even know how and RC car could have a clutch (the last car I built was a Boomerang or Falcon in the late 80's) but ordered one once again.. trusted the forum and ordered away... Gearbox coming together... ... still going ... ... ah ha! my first RC diff and clutch. Clutch was too tight and diff was too loose at run time... but you gotta start somewhere right? CVDs and turnbuckles... No pics of the front diff assembly... all of a sudden we have a slider... Thanks again @Wooders28 With stock suspenders... Steering... Swapped Silver Can for SS TZ... Roller status... Need a pick me up... I finished the build minus the body in the dead of winter. I was doing an electric conversion for my buddy who dug his old RC10GT out from his parents place. I got through about 2 rule of Lipo batteries and he wasn't having it.. so we had to make custom NiMH pack to fit his chassis. I took this pic to send to him and the Dark Impact was in the background. This the only pic I had of the DF-03 before... ... my son slammed it into a wall and snapped the rear arm off the gearbox. I honestly didn't even get it outside. He saw me driving it around the house and asked if he could try. He knows how to drive so I thought .. OK. He decided to chase his sister with it through the living room at full throttle and ... BOOM! off topic... RC10GT electric conversion mock up... ...and I here was the shell after I just finished the body. I painted it when it was too cold and the paint is flaking now... my bad. .. RC10GT finished (since I am a little all over this post)... After some runs in the back yard... Well... I love this buggy. Thank you again all!

I wanted to put together a build and thank you post together because this forum basically built the car for me. Will post soon!

After taking the TZ apart to inspect (and not really knowing what to look for) the comm was def dirty. I ran it under water for a couple minutes which was a bad idea... cleaned things up but almost completely wiped out the brushes and the comm now seems uneven to the eye. I figured.. what do I have to lose at this point? Put it back together with bearings instead of bushings and gave it a rip in LIPO mode. Went into limp.. just like you stated. I switched the jumper back it NiMH on the ESC... ran a couple packs through it. Seems fine. I didn't fully understand your post until I saw the Tamiya Legend youtube fix and what his car did. I ordered the capacitor kit... will see if it works. I def like the idea of being able to run it in LIPO mode and trust the ESC to determine when LIPO charge is done... instead of me eyeballing it. Live and learn.. gonna chalk this up to a combo of dirty comm and 1060 going into limp. Might switch this car to brushless.... or get a HW 1080 instead. Given my backyard can get muddy... wondering if SS motors are really the right choice for me. Thanks again everyone for the help.

Burned through a pack on the stock motor so I am leaning towards something being up with the TZ. Waiting for bearings to come then will clean commutator while installing them.

No good... still acting the same way. Going to put in the stock motor and see what happens.

I am hoping this is it. After Mad Ax's suggestion that something in the drivetrain might be binding I remembered the first time this happened if it would give it a little "bump" or "push" while holding the throttle it would go. So last night I took the pinion off to spin the trans... smooth as butter. I put the pinion back on with a loose grub to spin the spur and pinion... not so smooth. When I assembled initially (the car is only a couple months old) I used a little grease on the pinion which attracted some dirt. Then to make matters worse, when taking the motor out to flip the cooling bars around (thinking I was doing something good)... during re-assembly I set the pinion too tight. It just so happens I switched to lipo at the same time. Combine a pinion set too tight with some dirt in that stuck to the grease and a hot spur... I think it was locking it up and couldn't get an initial spin going. I am not a wiz when it comes to electronics so its a guess on my part that if the motor has trouble getting going (beyond a normal launch) something bugs out (esc or motor I don't know) I cleaned the pinion and spur, set the gap using paper then loosened the grub to make sure there was a smidge of play and was able to sneak out a for a couple minutes today in the rain to test. It was acting normal but I didn't get through a whole pack before a rear damper fell apart (luckily found the parts in the grass). The real test will be when I can run it continuously to see if my logic is sound. I am going to pop the TZ apart and replace the bushings with bearings in the hope it helps with heat... and because I can't decide if I like working on it or driving it more. At the same time I will check the commutator. The motor has under 20 packs thru it but you never know. Will report back after more packs and bearings... thanks again everyone for the help!

I have XT60 Connectors and they as well as the 1060 seem to be just fine temp wise. The motor seems hot but I didnt get my temp gauge out. So I dont have a specific temp. When brought it inside I hooked an old silver can up on the bench and it was fine. Then... nothing agin from the TZ.... but the TZ is still in the car. Maybe I need to take it out to test. I would like to think the drivetrain is ok... but maybe something is heating up and binding. I think next time it happens i will loosen the pinion and roll the car. The thing that is funny is this only happened after the switch to 2S and flipping the cooling bars around. I was thinking the longer run times were causing an overheat situation. Didnt happen with NiMH. Only reason I went with brushed was for wiring simplicity... if there is a good BL setup that fits the DF-03 without cutting the chassis would def consider the swap.

Hey everyone... wondering if what I am seeing is normal. Setup is - Dark Impact - Super Stock TZ - Cooling Bars flipped backwards - Slipper with stock pinion - HW1060 - XT60 connectors (Edited after Mad Ax’s post) - Gartpot 2S - Cool Translucent Blue Slipper Cover that adds 5hp - Running in my backyard.. short grass. I have a track in my head I do repeatedly. Pretty pinned most of the time I was running NiMH without issue. When switching to 2S, after what I would consider a normal run the car would start to slow. I put a new battery in... still slow.. then crawls to stop. Have to wait a good amount of time... then the motor wakes up and seems normal? Does anyone know if the Super Stock TZ has thermal protection that acts like this? The ESC seems fine. Should I switch to a brushless setup? Like 13.5 turns? Does anyone have a recommended brushless setup that fits in the tight motor compartment and chassis? Thanks for any help.

Glad you got it sorted out and thanks for reporting back... could be helpful for someone else in the future.

My diffs loosened up a little after break in... def give them another look after a couple packs. I really... really love the buggy... enjoy!

Whats funny is being a noob I thought I was buying a newer buggy.... lol. Some of the guys on here really helped with knowledge the final product is awesome IMO... tough part is looking through older build threads I see a lot of cool parts that are not available anymore. Would you know of a Tamiya buggy that performs as well as a DF03 but has better parts selection? I would hate to bail on the brand.

As a new DF03 owner I have been disappointed in the lack of OEM and aftermarket parts. Its seems as though I am late to the party. Its a shame... I really love the buggy. Not sure if this is pandemic related or that the time for the chassis has come and gone.

Step 19 of the NovaFox manual.. https://d1hu0eys0tj9xi.cloudfront.net/media/files/58577ml-862-e3b2.pdf vs. Step 19 of the Fox manual (actually shows how to lubricate the vintage shafts as well) https://www.tamiyaclub.com/modalpic.asp?img=fox_manual_10.jpg You will see if you pop the gearbox open.

I just went thru something similar. In my case it was the rear wheel adapters that broke. But during the inspection I notice my gearbox was cracked. So replaced my vintage Fox cases with NovaFox ones and it has been great. One thing is if you switch cases... you use e clips instead of c clips. That is the one catch I know about... to my knowledge the rest of the part are interchangeable. If it is the axle... i assume you would need dogbones, inner and outer cups. Supposedly the vintage axles need to be greased now and again otherwise they wear... this is going by what i have read... not experience.

Just got a chance to do a bench test. No more binding. The 9808128 shafts are a tad shorter then the 9805551 shafts. Seem to be just enough. I do not know if you need the re-re cups as well? Once again... the setup is a vintage Boomerang chassis, gear cases with the re-re parts in the links below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Hot-Shot-Super-Hotshot-Bigwig-Levant-9808128-19808128-Front-Drive-Shafts/293789621182?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TAMIYA-SUPERSHOT-Axles-Bearings-HOTSHOT-BOOMERANG-SUPER-TP2/132417181670?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TAMIYA-SUPERSHOT-Joint-Propeller-Shafts-Pinion-Gear-HOTSHOT-SUPER-TP9/312014122000?hash=item48a57dac10:g:UX8AAOSwIJlaH79w

I am in the middle of bringing back a Vintage Boomer. I bought re-re inner and outer cups with the driveshafts you posted. When the suspension is fully drooped... the one side binds. I believe this is common issue with the new driveshafts. After reading up for a quick fix I ordered re-re Hotshot front driveshafts as they are supposed to be slightly shorter (9808128). Also... keep in mind I have vintage gear cases. Will report back once the new shafts come.

Awesome! Curious to see what you find as the cause of the resistance.