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Golden

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  1. Hi - I’m painting a few shells with integrated drivers (kyosho) and hand paint the body of the drivers with ps paint. I’ve been using carson paint killer to clean the brushes - but it’s not cheap, and is currently tricky to get hold off. Are there any other options? White spirit and meths don’t seem to work… Many thanks!
  2. Golden

    Kyosho Beetle

    Anyone painted one of these? Watched a few videos and can’t quite work out how best to achieve box art. Looks like (using Tamiya spray paints) - ps-6 (yellow) backed with ps-19 (camel yellow)? Or….. straight to the ps-19 (camel yellow)?? Many thanks…
  3. Looking for one NIB with local postage - really want to build and paint one. I’m in the UK - So anyone local-ish got one lying about… drop me a pm. Many thanks!
  4. Thank you so much for the detailed responses (bldy great forum this!). That makes sense - on the use of silver as a backing, I did some test sprays of ps2 (yes - I know - red…!) a while ago - and how using white or silver and then black would affect the ultimate shade achieved - and the silver backing turned the colour a slightly orangey brown. Silver seems best as a backing for metallic paints (fantastic results with ps-16 on subarus and avantes) - and white for non metallic colours. The Pearl is of course somewhere in between a solid colour and a metallic - hence the query… I definitely overdo the colour coats - so they might not last that well with an impact…. But I tend to avoid shadows with several layers of paint…. And then a white or silver backing coat, and then black - but as per this initial thread, wasn’t sure how (or even if) I should back the pearl white. I have two ps1 white cars already - and think I left them without any backing - but did a fair few coats…. Will go with three or four layers of pearl and then two ps1 white coats and seenhow it looks before committing to a final black coat or not. Thanks again!
  5. I’d like to paint a shell in pearl white - is this any different to using normal ps paints? It looks like some you tubers apply a single coat and then paint with ps 1 white…. Or should I paint “as normal” - which for me means a light tack coat. A slightly heavier second coat and then usually a heavier third and fourth coat (all with the ps-57 pearl white). Then back with silver and then black. Grateful if anyone can share their experience of using this paint.
  6. Thanks for the above - accords with my recent thoughts as I started to research it a bit more. And (for what it’s worth!) completely agree with not greasing external parts/dog bones etc. they just fill with grit and it makes a grinding paste. All down to how much you run vs how much you maintain on that front I suppose. i think I’ll use aw grease SPARINGLY on metal bevel gears and cera grease sparingly on plastic gears. Thanks for the feedback.
  7. Thanks for the replies. I thought it would reduce wear (although I now think this is a non-point, as the cars get very light use, if at all(!) - and have brushed super stocks with Nimh cells rather than lipo) - and would help with traction too. I suspect the gears throw off a lot of the grease so per comments above, I suspect the initial effect is soon lost unless packed with a putty, or have a sealed and oil filled diff, like on the xv-01? So - no detrimental effects of having over done the grease? And no point in cleaning some of the excess off? Looks like it’s just a waste of a pricey product, rather than needing to clean them up to help the diffs work properly (have I over tightened them with too much aw grease….) Many thanks!
  8. On metal diff/bevel gears I use AW grease - and absolutely cake it on (based on car applications….). When I watch relatively well-respected you tubers, they seem to apply aw grease sparingly - and in some instances, even very lightly and with a paint brush…. Am I over doing it - and any downsides in doing so??? Just feels wrong not ensuring the bevel gears are very well coated. Grateful for some education on the point… I use cera grease on plastic gears, and again, cover them in the stuff. Many thanks!
  9. That’s not why we buy them! They’re still cool!!!
  10. Quick update - thank you to everyone who responded - I trimmed (quite aggressively) the “valley”/trough on each of the splines on the bevel gears with a craft knife and reassembled. It’s now almost perfect - a noisy gearbox - but no more clicking.
  11. Thanks for this - was chatting to a mate of mine who also (rightly) suggested to run a few batteries through it and see if it settles down. Better put it all back together now! (Don’t hate me - but this car will be a shelf queen for my collection - which might be run a few times - but I need to know it all works as it should - or it’ll detract from how special the cars are (ie completely worthless to me if every time I look at them I know they don’t actually work properly! I may as well collect hotwheels.) Actually - I do collect hotwheels…
  12. Thanks for the above - any suggestions on what to check - I’ll post some photos later in case I’m really being a dumb*** - as after checking I’d not made a mistake, it really does look like the correct parts are fitted in the correct order….
  13. Hi All - I have posted a similar message on another thread where forum members were discussing the relevant parts - albeit not the direct problem I’m hoping for some help with - and I’d be grateful for some advice! I’ve just completed a rere thunder dragon, and have very loud clicking from both gear boxes. I’ve traced it to the nylon bevel gears (running the car without the bevel gear cover on and then without the nylon bevel gears….) and shaved and filed the gears in the rear box - which has reduced the noise by about 50% - but it is still noticeable. The front clacks like it’s catching the casing - but again it is the nylon bevel gears and how they mesh. I’ve stripped and rebuilt once already but will have a final go. I’ve built around 25 cars so far without any issue like this (including my original vintage terra scorcher) - so grateful for any other advice - I do recall noticing the bevel gears had lugs on the planes of the gear splines from the moulding process and think I should have shaved those before first assembly, and did find an old thread from 2008 complaining of this issue. I am also using Tamiya cera grease rather than the standard thicker Tamiya supplied yellow/general purpose stuff for what that’s worth… (and bearings). Grateful for any advice folks!
  14. Not quite on topic - but close….. and it looks like the right people might be on this thread if you don’t mind the hijack…. I’ve just completed a rere thunder dragon, and have very loud clicking from both gear boxes. I’ve traced it to the nylon bevel gears (running the car without the bevel gear cover on and then without the nylon bevel gears….) and shaved and filed the gears in the rear box - which has reduced the noise by about 50% - but it is still noticeable. The front clacks like it’s catching the casing - but again it is the nylon bevel gears and how they mesh. I’ve stripped and rebuilt once already but will have a final go. I’ve built around 25 cars so far without any issue like this (including my original vintage terra scorcher) - so grateful for any other advice - I do recall noticing the bevel gears had lugs on the planes of the gear splines from the moulding process and think I should have shaved those before first assembly. I am also using Tamiya cera grease rather than the standard thicker Tamiya supplied yellow/general purpose stuff for what that’s worth… Grateful for any advice folks!
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