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  1. Anyone have the manual? I have a NIB kit - but no instructions, and the only pdf I can find is for the porsche 934 - and some of the parts trees look different! Would prefer to buy if I can - but also very grateful for some photos of the manual if someone wants to keep their original… Many thanks!
  2. Thanks - I did drop Nathaneal a line as it happens. Still in two minds! Very stressful this hobby…
  3. Just finished building my rere Top Force Evo - and painstakingly cut all the decals out - but I’m really not so sure on the yellow and orange against the anthracite/metallic gunmetal shell….. I’m usually a big fan of box art (and lack imagination!) - but there are a couple of mirror-finished decals - and I wondered whether anyone’s managed to get a full set of decals made in the mirrored finish with black lettering to set it all off? Has anyone got a different colour scheme for their decals on the standard anthracite shell they could share some photos of? Many thanks!
  4. Well…. Ball connectors don’t fit through the frame/chassis unfortunately. Will report back if the Jaz Rider part is any good.
  5. I really didn’t whack it hard - honest!
  6. I’ve gone for a few options in the end… 3D printing would probably be best - but a bit beyond me… Bought another tree of parts, so I have the originality. Also bought a Jazrider aluminium servo saver assembly - which comes with the connecting rod (the ort which has cracked). And had a few messages with Antony at Kyosho Spares - and he thinks he has the correct fitment for turn buckles and threaded rod - so might give that a go too - and think that might actually be the best all round solution… I have an optima and turbo optima too - and all have the same design. It’s a bit of an issue I think - as I really didn't smack it hard at all - and if the part breaks then you’re kind of stuffed. Will report back on the upgrade options…
  7. Thanks. I’ve another look, but can only find metal servo saver assemblies - but they tend to be just the main arms/mechanism. This part is currently a plastic link arm. Might be able to use turn buckles - but strange there's no metal part? Here’s another shot from the manual. Red encircled item is the plastic part in question - the metal upgrades only seem to be available for the parts I’ve circled in blue….
  8. Ah - I’m desperately after one of those! Very jealous. A good friend of mine has a coupe with 40,000 miles on - in estoril blue with the grey vedars…. It is lurrrrrevly - and one of the few cars to recently put a massive grin on my face when going for a blast. It is immaculate, save for some loss of the paint to the rocker cover which can be easily rectified. I’ve got an E46 SMG coupe - trying to work out what to do with the suspension on that too as it happens. I swapped the shocks for bilstein b4s - to keep it standard - as it’s a pure road car - but they’ve gone off after 10,000 miles and am working out whether to go for KW v3 or ohlins r/t…. But again - ride height is an issue as don’t want to slam it too much! Like I said. The struggle is real. Is good to only have first world problems thankfully!
  9. Yep. Just like real cars! I’ve got an old BMW M3 - and one of the best shock and damper set ups (at reasonable cost…..) is a bilstein kit, which provides an amazing ride and great body control - but aesthetically, isn‘t too popular, as it makes the car look like it’s on stilts! The struggle is real... That Super Astute looks really good. Nice build. I can see the rear shock collars look to be maybe 10mm down the shock to tension the spring - presumably adding tension raises the ride height, as well as stiffening the ride…? So spring length AND internal spacers to limit shock travel contribute to ride height?
  10. Hi All, I’ve just run my re-re Javelin (which is a thing of beauty in my eyes - but…. a complete nightmare to clean!) - and had the tiniest (honest!) of front impacts. It cracked the link arm between the servo saver and steering (part OT203-8) per the attached (circled in red - you can see the crack in the part if you zoom in…). This seems extremely fragile - and I was wondering whether there’s an upgrade - or was I just (stupid and) unlucky - so just replace with standard if I can source it? Many thanks!
  11. Inread about the old egress hop ups having an additional strut tower to raise the attachment height. Interesting they haven’t done so now - but I suppose it would start to make the high caps pretty expensive on what is already an expensive kit. Although Tamico currently have it for EURO 277 until midnight tomorrow!
  12. With a nimh battery pack on it’s end to give an idea of the gap - didn’t have a ruler to hand!). Am certain I’ve followed the instructions and double checked etc.
  13. Yep. Brand new set of VQS High Caps from Tamico. They advised to remove the front shock collars - and insert larger spacers at the rear. Will have a play but the car sits about 3.5-4cm high under the chassis. Will post a pic shortly…
  14. Ah that’s interesting. The high cap instructions direct you to use the top fitment holes in the rear upright (so one set of holes higher up the upright) than for the CVAs) - so the bolts actually touch the spoiler/rear wing - I guess to compensate for the increased the shaft length. I guess the high capacity is a combo of wider diameter and stroke length of the shock. I might play around with internal spacers - and see how I go... but the damping is definitely improved.
  15. Many thanks for this. Will have a tinker. The standard CVAs don’t return the car to a decent height and leave it too soft so it can bottom out quite easily - whereas the high caps feel a lot better - albeit I haven’t run the car on them yet (but just from squishing it down and doing a few minor drop tests.... Not sure if it’s spring related - or spacer related as you suggest in one of the options you’ve set out.... but it sits pretty high. Be interetsed in whether others find increased ride height with the high caps (or perhaps I have done something wrong - but I have followed the manual!!!). Thanks again.
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