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  1. Anyone got a spoiler or two for the TT-02 Monte Carlo (classic GC8 body shell). I’m after a couple of them for lexan shells I’ve sourced separately. H parts no. 10004134 - happy with new or used/assembled. They’ll be painted, so any condition considered! Many thanks...
  2. Many thanks. So... either yeah racing 65mm or the mini CVA’s. I’d assumed the TRF shocks are more for tarmac race cars - so not quite what I’m after? I’m only bashing about in my garden - but equally don’t want to buy rubbish (and quite like improving the cars with upgrades...). Thanks for everyone’s input.
  3. Ah that’s helpful and will definitely help the ride height. The tt-02 doesn’t have oil filled shocks though - they’re often described as pogo sticks... so I was also hoping to improve the damping. I guess any compatible shock body will work - the damping effect comes down to the internal piston resistance (holes in the piston?) and oil used?
  4. Interesting thread - so yeah racing 65mm dampers look like the set to go for?
  5. I’ve just built a TT-02 Subaru Impreza - and would like to use it in Rally spec for bashing around my garden - not going to be used on tarmac I don’t think. I know it's not an off road buggy - but please could someone recommend some good shocks for it as there are loads of options, but I’m not sure if they’re all tarmac focussed? There are a some great videos on modifying the chassis and a lot of general info on hop ups - but I haven’t seen exactly which shocks seem best for a slightly higher ground clearance/rally/back garden basher. Many thanks!
  6. What I would say is the paint I removed was applied over 30 years ago (I remember it was a jar of Tamiya which I daubed on pretty thickly with a brush!) - so perhaps less resilient than modern equivalents! Was a single bottle of polycarbonate cleaner enough? While cheaper, I did use about 100ml of meths, and while it wasn’t really hard work, it wasn’t a doddle either... and took bldy ages.
  7. Thanks very much for this - In order to make a paste using old bits of sprue, is there any particular modelling cement to use, or are they all much of a much mess. The last time I bought any it was in a black and yellow Beatties bottle!
  8. Please could someone recommend some putty to patch up an abs shell for paint, and also for smoothing over the join on driver’s heads/helmets before painting. There seem to be various Tamiya options - or could I just use any old diy two part epoxy putty? Many thanks!
  9. I’ve just completely stripped my 1989 ish Terra Scorcher from great globs of paint (applied by paint brush back then!) using methylated spirit and a variety of cloths - the best being make-up removal cotton pads - but micro fibre towel works quite well, cotton buds get to the hard to reach bits (but don’t last long) and even kitchen towel (the worst performer!) - I also used wooden tooth picks for the really difficult corners - the tooth pick would soften and feather out as it soaked up the meths (as did my head from the fumes....) - so no scratches to report. I then dunked the shell every 20 minutes or so in a bowl of soapy water and rubbed off any residue and dried. So far no clouding or cracking.... am about to repaint it... I have also used super resin polish from Autoglym - but it’s slow work - although will remove light scratching from the lexan. Again I washed it frequently, and so far no clouding or cracking to report. Tamiya stuff looks good - but is expensive. I used half a bottle of meths on one shell - so about £2 worth? presumably has no ill effects on newer lexan shells - but no idea if they’ve changed the polycarbonate?
  10. I’ve just stumbled across this thread as I’ve almost finished recommissioning mine from 1989 ish. I’ve stripped the shell (which I painted very badly 30 odd years ago!) which was painted in PS-16, and have both ps-16 (as I’m about to do a Subaru....) and also ps-4 paint, as this was the original colour for the Terra Scorcher per this thread - and I’m agonising over which colour to go for! OP - any regrets with the (correct) colour change - as it’s exactly what I’m dealing with. Incidentally - I found this thread as I was looking for ideas to repaint the driver. You did a really lovely job! As also mentioned, a replacement cover is indeed only £8 but I’ve spent about three hours so far removing the paint from mine, so I can try to keep (some) original bits! The other answer to this first world problem/serious life dilemma is to copy you completely and buy another shell!! I’d also noticed the rear window - and might use Tamiya smoke on it.... not sure on that bit though. Thanks!
  11. Shell’s completely stripped (took around 5 hours in total - so two evenings in front of the tv... and used about a quarter of a standard UK sized bottle of methylated spirit). I’ve bravely decided to use the correct colour to repaint with (ps-4)(Although it’s been painted in ps16 I think for 32 years or so - and I don’t like change....). I did try the car out yesterday and it’s bl**dy brilliant! Stupidly forgot to reinstall the driver which covers all the electrics, so had to do another (far quicker this time....) mini strip and clean - and used compressed air/air dusters which worked really well. You can of course buy an RC car which is far more capable and modern for not much more than the cost of the rebuild parts I’ve bought - but where’s the fun in that? Nostalgia and 80s retro cool every time. Really pleased it all works well - and thanks again for the advice above re the front end. Will post some pics when it’s repainted.
  12. My main hobby is actually working on old (full size...) BMWs, Peugeot’s and Imprezas - and I can’t help but restore rather than just get on with it or buy a completely new one.... (I think references to “Trigger’s Broom” have been made already!). So... I started to try to clean the shell up a bit, as my 9 year old self hadn’t quite made it to the same levels of OCD as the 42 year old version, and the driver’s window had a bit of paint on it.... and I ended up stripping the shell about half way - using mentholated spirit and a cloth. I’ve read a few threads about melting shells and cloudiness, so took care to wash it in a bowl of soapy water every 20 minutes or so - and I’m going to leave it a day or so to see if it’s dried the plastic out/cracking or cloudiness comes through.I’ve ordered some repro decals from MCI Racing - so fingers crossed the shell doesn't suffer too much.
  13. Back together after being thoroughly cleaned. Quite a few parts split actually - so lucky I’d bought some A, B and C sprues. One of the gear box casings had lost a screw fixing, and a wheel retaining triangle/hub had split too. I ended up taking EVERYONE’S advice - and repaired the chassis AND bought a new one in case it destroyed itself - so I have parts to hand! I recycled the bottom part of my original A5 on the bumper and used the B8 part as recommended on the front bumper - so thanks to mud4fun for that. I also saw a really interesting fix on you tube using hop up shafts and a couple of spacers to change the way in which the front end wishbones are held to the front of the car, which I think makes sense, so might give that a go if it breaks again (as I have a new A sprue with a new part A5 to use). I’d also mashed/kerbed each of the wheels, but think I’ve saved them with a little trimming of the lip with a Stanley knife - so overall, hoping it’ll run really well. The gearboxes are a bit notchy and I was surprised to see the nylon gears catching on the inside of the casing, so shaved them with a dremmel but I don't think they mesh very well (there’s no apparent wear to the parts though....), and I cleaned the bearings in brake cleaner - whereupon they span up really nicely, but I then sprayed them with GT85 and now they don’t spin that freely - so may either replace or try a bearing oil..... or just leave it alone and get on with it already! Looking forward to testing it out tomorrow in the daylight - and will then decide whether to repaint the shell - which wasn’t my finest work aged 9 or so (daubed I’m heavily with a brush) - or whether it might just need to be backed in silver and polish the outer surface and replace the decals. The driver definitely needs some work though! Thanks for everyone’s help on this.
  14. I recently finished a 2015 re-re Monster Beetle, and have only run it once so far (and it was just as awesome as I was hoping it’d be, since I first saw one 30-odd years ago...!). I found the steering servo and track rods kept popping off /wheels would go squiffy when I inevitably rolled/crashed it though - and I think the standard kit servo saver is too weak (as the servo horn components seem to come apart). Presumably I should NOT glue this all together as it’s designed to spring apart to prevent damage - but is there a slightly stronger/stiffer version which can take a bit more abuse. Is Tamiya part 51000 worth getting (is it an upgrade part?). Many thanks!
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