Jump to content

Golden

Members
  • Content Count

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

29 Excellent

About Golden

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I’ve picked one of these up NIB, and am enjoying the build so far (I really like the slightly different build processes across the different chassis types - the main part of RC stuff for me I think...!) - but.... I didn’t realise they have much smaller battery and servo requirements.... Can anyone advise what battery and servo will fit (it’s 1:12 scale), as the bespoke tamtech stuff is long discontinued. I think the following core servo will fit (will check once it arrives, as Gavin advised it will fit the Kyosho Fantom which is on my build list and looks to have same requirements.....) - and I’ve found this carson which looks about right - but be really useful if anyone else can confirm? I’m not going the Lipo route for now, so need to stay NimH.... and I’m in the UK, so mostly UK or EU suppliers are best for me. And finally - how do I get brave enough to stray away from PS-2 for it!!!! Many thanks All! https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-nimh-battery-pack-2-3-af-1600mah-7-2v-straight-pack-premium-sport-w-mt/rc-car-products/384284 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-servo-5kg-08-sec-1-12th-gt12/rc-car-products/378635
  2. I’m hoping to paint lunch box wheels with ts paint and then flat clear. I can see how the ps would flex though and hence might survive a bit longer. Anyone used ts paint on a runner with success?
  3. They’re not cheap once you’ve added a few hop ups.... you “need” the rear wheelie castor hop up plus four wheel steering bars. And MUST either get after market CVDs or use the tamiya hop up cross joints for the standard drive shafts or they fall apart every tine you crash it/it falls over. Battery-wise - I’m using a carson 1700mh nimh which fits really well (I’m in the uk and it’s readily available...)
  4. Yep. I’ve fitted it and it’s a massive improvement. I have old parque flooring which is kind of loose and has massive gaps(!) plus lino and short carpet. Makes a bit difference and should have come as standard. I also find feathering the throttle helps with wheelie steering. I did try the tamiya sport tuned motor - and wow. Speedy. But totally unmanageable. It kept flipping over on me, so I went back to standard. And I’ve modded the drive shafts. Used the hop up joints, but then also dremelled a bit more off the dog bones so the grub screws can secure against flat parts and this has stopped them spinning (super glue and araldite wasn’t enough). It’s one of my favourite rc cars I think - and definitely gets the most use, as it’s an indoor car for me!
  5. Thanks for this - quite right now I’ve checked the manual in the cold light of day (and well-after the bottle of wine I’d drunk during the assembly process!) It’s a bit of a mission to open up my gearboxes to check the bearings for you (and I do feel guilty saying it!). Are you in the UK - as a bearing kit from RC Bearings is about £4 plus the postage... alternatively you could measure the plastic bearings provided with calipers, as they must be the same?
  6. Slight thread revival - but I’ve just built mine and have two of the four 850 ball bearings supplied by RC Bearings left over.... can’t find anywhere in the manual where these should go, as there only seem to be two 850 metal bushings which were replaced... Is it in fact just two of the 850 ball bearings which are required, or have I missed something... Many thanks!
  7. Many thanks. Will be both shaken AND stirred... will give it all a go. Many thanks!
  8. Thanks for this too - Love the purple on the Avante and Hotshot!
  9. Wow - Fantastic work! I have a Turbo Optima to build (and a Tomahawk....) and am about to paint the driver on a turbo scorpion - so, like your optima, onto lexan (have assumed you painted the top, otherwise it’d be glossy?!). Do you undercoat/base coat that first? I have been using very small detail brushes - as have relatively steady hands (the booze cancels out the caffeine....) and used to paint warhammer stuff when I was a kid. Am by NO means gifted - but am PAINSTAKINGLY careful and can lose myself in these sorts of tasks - so can apply colour neatly - but haven’t really experimented with shading and highlights yet. It might be a combo of working too slowly and with too little paint due to the brush size... I’ll change up from miniature brushes - and generally see how I go. Thanks for all the input. This really is a great forum. Feel a bit bad I have ‘t been able to contribute much help to others yet!
  10. Many thanks for this. Very helpful. I’ve been using Tamiya flat white and flat black for simple driver bodies - and they really do go on thin. Almost like there’s too much solvent in the mix. I have been considering an air brush and extractor set-up, as have a lot of vintage Hot Wheels I’d really like to restore.
  11. I’d be very grateful for yet more advice please! I’ve spent many an evening perfecting my Tamiya driver figures using Tamiya Acrylic pot paints (which has transpired to be slightly pointless as one is for a hornet and the other a hotshot - so you can hardly see them once installed!) - but seem to have two problems when using these paints. They seem to go on VERY thinly - particularly an issue with white and black paint - they’re almost like a wash. I’ve mixed them for around a minute to 90 seconds before applying - and the black does seem a bit better than the white after increasing the mix time - but is still an issue. And, when I then go over the model to tidy up the edges/margins and little mistakes, the second application seems to dissolve/wet the previous application - almost like the solvent in the paint is mixing the new application with the previous - so if I’m applying white paint over a slight mistake with a black safety belt for example, it blends the colours into a grey mess... seems more of an issue where a flat (matt) colour is involved come to think of it... I’ve managed to end up with neat results by applying thicker top coats and dabbing them with extremely small detail brushes - but is anyone able to some tips on how to obtain a less weak first and second coat of the paints - and in relation to the soluble/mixing issue I seem to encounter? I’ve been using Tamiya fine primer in white as a base. Leaving for an hour betwen coats - sometimes overnight (perhaps not long enough??). As a final query - I’m going to paint a red driver’s suit (arms and torso...) in flat red, with a yellow helmet in gloss. Should I use a white base for the red, and a black base for the yellow for best results? Many thanks!
  12. I haven't attached the “1:10th rc buggy” type sticker (a rare break with my box-art OCD fettish/lack of imagination) - but the bonnet does look a bit empty. Might use one of the turbo scorpion “shield” type stickers. Oh.... the first-world stress problems I have to deal with....
  13. Thanks - the bowl of soapy water was the extra bit which helped from my previous effort. I was using a soapy spray solution - but I’m now a convert!
×
×
  • Create New...