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Golden

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Everything posted by Golden

  1. Thank you so much for the detailed responses (bldy great forum this!). That makes sense - on the use of silver as a backing, I did some test sprays of ps2 (yes - I know - red…!) a while ago - and how using white or silver and then black would affect the ultimate shade achieved - and the silver backing turned the colour a slightly orangey brown. Silver seems best as a backing for metallic paints (fantastic results with ps-16 on subarus and avantes) - and white for non metallic colours. The Pearl is of course somewhere in between a solid colour and a metallic - hence the query… I definitely overdo the colour coats - so they might not last that well with an impact…. But I tend to avoid shadows with several layers of paint…. And then a white or silver backing coat, and then black - but as per this initial thread, wasn’t sure how (or even if) I should back the pearl white. I have two ps1 white cars already - and think I left them without any backing - but did a fair few coats…. Will go with three or four layers of pearl and then two ps1 white coats and seenhow it looks before committing to a final black coat or not. Thanks again!
  2. I’d like to paint a shell in pearl white - is this any different to using normal ps paints? It looks like some you tubers apply a single coat and then paint with ps 1 white…. Or should I paint “as normal” - which for me means a light tack coat. A slightly heavier second coat and then usually a heavier third and fourth coat (all with the ps-57 pearl white). Then back with silver and then black. Grateful if anyone can share their experience of using this paint.
  3. Thanks for the above - accords with my recent thoughts as I started to research it a bit more. And (for what it’s worth!) completely agree with not greasing external parts/dog bones etc. they just fill with grit and it makes a grinding paste. All down to how much you run vs how much you maintain on that front I suppose. i think I’ll use aw grease SPARINGLY on metal bevel gears and cera grease sparingly on plastic gears. Thanks for the feedback.
  4. Thanks for the replies. I thought it would reduce wear (although I now think this is a non-point, as the cars get very light use, if at all(!) - and have brushed super stocks with Nimh cells rather than lipo) - and would help with traction too. I suspect the gears throw off a lot of the grease so per comments above, I suspect the initial effect is soon lost unless packed with a putty, or have a sealed and oil filled diff, like on the xv-01? So - no detrimental effects of having over done the grease? And no point in cleaning some of the excess off? Looks like it’s just a waste of a pricey product, rather than needing to clean them up to help the diffs work properly (have I over tightened them with too much aw grease….) Many thanks!
  5. On metal diff/bevel gears I use AW grease - and absolutely cake it on (based on car applications….). When I watch relatively well-respected you tubers, they seem to apply aw grease sparingly - and in some instances, even very lightly and with a paint brush…. Am I over doing it - and any downsides in doing so??? Just feels wrong not ensuring the bevel gears are very well coated. Grateful for some education on the point… I use cera grease on plastic gears, and again, cover them in the stuff. Many thanks!
  6. That’s not why we buy them! They’re still cool!!!
  7. Quick update - thank you to everyone who responded - I trimmed (quite aggressively) the “valley”/trough on each of the splines on the bevel gears with a craft knife and reassembled. It’s now almost perfect - a noisy gearbox - but no more clicking.
  8. Thanks for this - was chatting to a mate of mine who also (rightly) suggested to run a few batteries through it and see if it settles down. Better put it all back together now! (Don’t hate me - but this car will be a shelf queen for my collection - which might be run a few times - but I need to know it all works as it should - or it’ll detract from how special the cars are (ie completely worthless to me if every time I look at them I know they don’t actually work properly! I may as well collect hotwheels.) Actually - I do collect hotwheels…
  9. Thanks for the above - any suggestions on what to check - I’ll post some photos later in case I’m really being a dumb*** - as after checking I’d not made a mistake, it really does look like the correct parts are fitted in the correct order….
  10. Hi All - I have posted a similar message on another thread where forum members were discussing the relevant parts - albeit not the direct problem I’m hoping for some help with - and I’d be grateful for some advice! I’ve just completed a rere thunder dragon, and have very loud clicking from both gear boxes. I’ve traced it to the nylon bevel gears (running the car without the bevel gear cover on and then without the nylon bevel gears….) and shaved and filed the gears in the rear box - which has reduced the noise by about 50% - but it is still noticeable. The front clacks like it’s catching the casing - but again it is the nylon bevel gears and how they mesh. I’ve stripped and rebuilt once already but will have a final go. I’ve built around 25 cars so far without any issue like this (including my original vintage terra scorcher) - so grateful for any other advice - I do recall noticing the bevel gears had lugs on the planes of the gear splines from the moulding process and think I should have shaved those before first assembly, and did find an old thread from 2008 complaining of this issue. I am also using Tamiya cera grease rather than the standard thicker Tamiya supplied yellow/general purpose stuff for what that’s worth… (and bearings). Grateful for any advice folks!
  11. Not quite on topic - but close….. and it looks like the right people might be on this thread if you don’t mind the hijack…. I’ve just completed a rere thunder dragon, and have very loud clicking from both gear boxes. I’ve traced it to the nylon bevel gears (running the car without the bevel gear cover on and then without the nylon bevel gears….) and shaved and filed the gears in the rear box - which has reduced the noise by about 50% - but it is still noticeable. The front clacks like it’s catching the casing - but again it is the nylon bevel gears and how they mesh. I’ve stripped and rebuilt once already but will have a final go. I’ve built around 25 cars so far without any issue like this (including my original vintage terra scorcher) - so grateful for any other advice - I do recall noticing the bevel gears had lugs on the planes of the gear splines from the moulding process and think I should have shaved those before first assembly. I am also using Tamiya cera grease rather than the standard thicker Tamiya supplied yellow/general purpose stuff for what that’s worth… Grateful for any advice folks!
  12. Just taken it out again having opened up the toe slightly - shimmed it - and importantly found done donor tyres…. Also (and probably the most important aspect!!!!) changed driving style slightly - lifting off for corners - and…. It’s AWESOME! The VQS tyres don’t quite fit - but just to see if spikes helped…. And they definitely do for grass. Thanks for everyone's input. I think I’ll source a carson 17t steel pinion and a heat sink (although there doesn’t seem any room to install one???) - and then I’m up and running with a proper Tamiya car I don’t mind getting dirty(!). Might strengthen the front strut tower with an aluminium bracket too. The buggy is really fun - so driving style and tyres seems to have sorted it. Just need some ps-6 to arrive in the uk to finish it off now!
  13. Yep - grass… I have a few (a lot…..) of other buggies - so will try some other tyres out. Just found a great series of dt02 videos from Mark Bryan’s you tube channel - and he recommends a traxxas tyre (the turf ripper!). Steering angle does look to be fine - so must be the tyres simply not biting-in…
  14. Thanks for the above. For shims I use Traxxas shims - I think they’re teflon: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/121/ I hadn’t considered a ball diff - I might swap the cera grease I’d put in the diff (too splippery????) for awg grease - as usually use that and get good results on the diffs actually….). I had seen the dt02 tuning guide late last night as it happens - and just had a more detailed read - so will play around with it a bit more. I know it's not a top end kit - but was expecting it to be a bit better from the reviews - so will play around with settings a bit more as need a non-shelf queen I’ll actually use! Will adjusting camber help with turn in? Thanks again!
  15. Grateful for some advice - I’ve just built a sand viper on the dt02 chassis, and the steering circle/turning circle is absolutely huge. I’m using a metal geared servo (a core 9kg one I think - I use it in most of my stuff) Super stock bz motor and standard 17 tooth pinion (but only use nimh packs….). I've just had a go at adding some toe out (and nicely mashed up the turnbuckles as part of the bargain….) and added some shims to stop play in the wheels between the bearings and wheel face - and will see how that goes tomorrow as it’s now pretty late/dark. The car is for back garden bashing - not racing or anything like that - but I am a bit shocked about how poor the steering was when compared to other cars I have and watching it on you tube. Do I need more throw in the servo somehow - or more toe- out (will discover if what I’ve done has made any improvement tomorrow….) - but I can’t see how it’s raced, as it is far from nimble - I think my hornet steers tighter than this does! Grateful for some advice if anyone knows much about these.
  16. Anyone have the manual? I have a NIB kit - but no instructions, and the only pdf I can find is for the porsche 934 - and some of the parts trees look different! Would prefer to buy if I can - but also very grateful for some photos of the manual if someone wants to keep their original… Many thanks!
  17. Thanks - I did drop Nathaneal a line as it happens. Still in two minds! Very stressful this hobby…
  18. Just finished building my rere Top Force Evo - and painstakingly cut all the decals out - but I’m really not so sure on the yellow and orange against the anthracite/metallic gunmetal shell….. I’m usually a big fan of box art (and lack imagination!) - but there are a couple of mirror-finished decals - and I wondered whether anyone’s managed to get a full set of decals made in the mirrored finish with black lettering to set it all off? Has anyone got a different colour scheme for their decals on the standard anthracite shell they could share some photos of? Many thanks!
  19. Well…. Ball connectors don’t fit through the frame/chassis unfortunately. Will report back if the Jaz Rider part is any good.
  20. I really didn’t whack it hard - honest!
  21. I’ve gone for a few options in the end… 3D printing would probably be best - but a bit beyond me… Bought another tree of parts, so I have the originality. Also bought a Jazrider aluminium servo saver assembly - which comes with the connecting rod (the ort which has cracked). And had a few messages with Antony at Kyosho Spares - and he thinks he has the correct fitment for turn buckles and threaded rod - so might give that a go too - and think that might actually be the best all round solution… I have an optima and turbo optima too - and all have the same design. It’s a bit of an issue I think - as I really didn't smack it hard at all - and if the part breaks then you’re kind of stuffed. Will report back on the upgrade options…
  22. Thanks. I’ve another look, but can only find metal servo saver assemblies - but they tend to be just the main arms/mechanism. This part is currently a plastic link arm. Might be able to use turn buckles - but strange there's no metal part? Here’s another shot from the manual. Red encircled item is the plastic part in question - the metal upgrades only seem to be available for the parts I’ve circled in blue….
  23. Ah - I’m desperately after one of those! Very jealous. A good friend of mine has a coupe with 40,000 miles on - in estoril blue with the grey vedars…. It is lurrrrrevly - and one of the few cars to recently put a massive grin on my face when going for a blast. It is immaculate, save for some loss of the paint to the rocker cover which can be easily rectified. I’ve got an E46 SMG coupe - trying to work out what to do with the suspension on that too as it happens. I swapped the shocks for bilstein b4s - to keep it standard - as it’s a pure road car - but they’ve gone off after 10,000 miles and am working out whether to go for KW v3 or ohlins r/t…. But again - ride height is an issue as don’t want to slam it too much! Like I said. The struggle is real. Is good to only have first world problems thankfully!
  24. Yep. Just like real cars! I’ve got an old BMW M3 - and one of the best shock and damper set ups (at reasonable cost…..) is a bilstein kit, which provides an amazing ride and great body control - but aesthetically, isn‘t too popular, as it makes the car look like it’s on stilts! The struggle is real... That Super Astute looks really good. Nice build. I can see the rear shock collars look to be maybe 10mm down the shock to tension the spring - presumably adding tension raises the ride height, as well as stiffening the ride…? So spring length AND internal spacers to limit shock travel contribute to ride height?
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