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Golden

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Posts posted by Golden

  3. Posted

    Please could someone recommend a crimping tool for servo connectors. I’m trying to make up some leads, but have really cheap crimpers and they’re (I’m….) making a hash of it. I’m in the UK if that makes any difference as to availability…. Think there are ratcheting types - but no idea on which ones to go for. 

    Many thanks!

  6. Posted

    Ah thanks for that. I’m in the UK - so it didn’t come up. I’ll get it sent to a friend’s house. 
     

    There are a few pre assembled lines with plugs available here, but I’m after a length of cable like you’ve posted a link to, so I make up a few of them. 

    I searched for “receiver wire” so that might help too. 

  7. Posted

    Please could someone recommend where to get three wire black servo cable from? I need to rewire a few black low-profile servos, as the standard leads are too short. I’ll either make extension harnesses or resolder them - but want to use black cable, not the brown and orange stuff or black, red, white either…

    I can’t seem to find any?

  10. Posted

    Minor follow up. Have now built the shocks and attached the wheels (OMG it took AGES for the bubbles to disappear from the shocks….). It sounds pretty smooth with some power through it - but the diff feels really loose? If I lift the rear wheels, so the car is only on the front wheels, and turn both rear wheels together in the same direction, I can feel slight resistance from the centre diff, but it doesn’t pull the car forward/front wheels won’t drag it forwards. 
     

    It feels the same/ish as my VQS - and that runs really well - but no where near as tight as my Top Force Evo (which I think has an adjustable diff). 
     

    Anyone have any experience with this/let me know if it sounds right - maybe too much ball diff grease? I was very careful with building it/getting things in the right order, and have built similar types of diffs before as mentioned - but there’s always scope for messing it up….

    Many thanks (again…!)!

  12. Posted

    Thank you for this - it just looked like the moulding in the gearbox for the bearing wasn’t angled to take the bearing correctly (the moulding looks square-on, whereas, as you rightly note, the bearing and diff and motor pinion are canted/angled slightly).  It might well be that the pinion is meshed too tightly. I’ll have a play…

    I’m working through the build in order of the manual - and am just about to build the shocks. 

    I’m using a savox low profile servo, which is black anodised aluminium, and looks great - but has super short wires. Think I need to find a black extension!

    Does anyone use super glue to seal the carbon fibre deck edges? As mentioned, I have cleaned mine up and it looks fine - but what a mess and took AGES to gently sand and polish. 
     

    This car will be a runner, as (please don’t hate me….) I have another one which is nib and will be a shelf queen😳- and there's no way I am  applying super glue to that one based on my recent experience!

    Thanks again for everyone’s input. 

  14. Posted

    Hi All - I’ve almost finished my Avante build, and was hoping to check a couple of points. 
     

    There is possibly less than 1mm of clearance between the prop shaft and the top deck as it passes below it - is that right???

     

    And… the bearing on the ball diff which seats into the rear part of the gearbox housing doesn’t seem to sit square. The diff has to sit at an angle so it meshes with the motor pinion - but the bearing doesn’t seem to seat into casing flush, but at an angle in the holder moulded into the casing? 
     

    Have I messed it up…(!?)

     

    pics below… and - I am NEVER using super glue to seal the edges of carbon fibre decks again….. made a complete mess and had to sand with super fine micro mesh and ultra fine car polish for hours to fix it!

    As always, very gateful for advice. 

    2086C26A-9771-4B42-8941-9B6817FCEF08.jpeg

    8DE4BB65-7445-4205-9986-F4D20E95B58F.jpeg

    02C093A7-6861-4831-91C5-7BB3779EA803.jpeg

    4ADD381C-75F4-4569-BA23-BADBB252DCFB.jpeg

  16. Posted

    9 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

    Again, 1:10/12 is easy, 1:24/35/72 are the tricky ones. One trick about painting drivers, paint markers. 😉

    I disagree. The bigger the scale, then the longer the duration of painting - and hence the larger the scope for caffeine induced shakey hands to mess it up!

    • Haha 1

  21. Posted

    Are you au fait with the dunk it through soapy water, spray soapy water onto the body, apply decal, and then dab with a paper towel and use a hairdryer to “set” and also form around undulations in the body-method?

    It genuinely transformed my enjoyment of the  hobby - which is highly focused (almost exclusively so….) on the build process.

    And you definitely have to show it to us now though!

    • Like 1

  25. Posted

    12 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

    You've widened the rear track width....looks really good!

     

    Yep - and thanks! After initially building it I thought it looked awful! I was looking at wider after-market aluminium hubs, and then stumbled across a you tube video of someone who’d used the wider rear arms - and I had a spare set from my Dynahead…. Wheels are fractionally too far forwards, but depends on the height, which I might play around with after eventually sorting the bumper. But a definite improvement to widen the rear track!

     

    • Like 3
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