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El Gecko

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About El Gecko

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    The Great Lakes

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  1. I've got one of these in rough shape, missing wheels/electronics/etc. from when I was a kid that I've always wanted to convert to RC. Most likely an M-chassis like the guy in the video, probably with flipped suspension arms or some other mods to line up the wheelbase properly. Possibly even a scratchbuild!
  2. Hey everybody, look at the BIG MANLY MAN who sleeps next to his batteries! What a daredevil! Your apology means nothing if the very next line is yet another insult. I guess it's hard for you to accept that people are different.
  3. My Mud (now Mad) Blaster has evolved into... The Toad (warts and all) (probably not permanently, but it was a lot of fun to drive with these wheels and tires on!)
  4. Servo saver success, finally! Decided I didn't want to pay for a new servo saver, and I happened to have this broken spring from a pair of old bicycle brakes on hand, so I cut off a coil and did a quick and dirty Dremel lathe job on the plastic spring part to make a recess for it to sit in. (I used the flat plastic spring from the kit, rather than the stronger one with the ridge on it). Works perfect! Much stronger than stock, actually stronger than any other servo saver I have! Yet still has a bit of spring action at the limit. And fits in exactly the same space as the all-plastic kit one with the ridge. Gonna do this to my Hornet as well!
  5. Nah. NiMH is good solid safe fun. No Lipo necessary
  6. Totally agree, I'm not a wheelie fan either. It is fun to be able to do it on command occasionally, but it tends to be frustrating for actual driving, especially spirited, precise driving. I like a more balanced vehicle rather than something so rear-heavy, although I do see the benefits for traction, but it does go too far IMHO with all the vehicles designed specifically to wheelie. Ever since I was able to get my Frog to do a 3-wheel drift on pavement, that's the type of driving experience I want to try to replicate in some of my other cars too, although it's difficult due to various suspension and weight bias layouts. Plus, you need a decent amount of horsepower for it, and most of my other cars are a bit underpowered. Something like this:
  7. Those cheap black can rebuildable motors that are rebadged everywhere are not bad, but not great either. You get what you pay for, and they are a great value. Decently fast, but the lower-turn arms don't have larger wire to compensate, and are lacking torque. All of them are much better than a silvercan, but not quite to the same level as a Tamiya or other vintage brands. The Reedy Radon black cans appear to have upgraded or rewound armatures, as theirs have the correct size wire with a corresponding power increase. Just make sure to get the 3-slot version of any motor, as the 5-slot is for crawling and has much lower RPM.
  8. Make up your minds Tamiya!! The box art says ball diff!
  9. I like the general look of it (and all the throwback design cues from old cars) but wondering about a few things... Is the rear camber angle adjustable? (or will it be with aftermarket parts?) What's with the big funky motor cooler shroud (a la TD2/4 turned backwards) and where is the intake for it? Is a super low profile servo required or will there be alternate mounts for a standard one? Will the bellcranks be mounted on ball bearings? And lastly WHY a ball diff?? GAH. Slipper clutch + gear diff has been proven stronger and easier to work on + less maintenance.
  10. What a lovely car, you don't see many of those nowadays! It's such a vintage car that spares are probably hard to come by and expensive, and what you have there is in such wonderful original condition that it would be a shame to run it and possibly crash and ruin it. I'd probably just source a vintage receiver without a transmitter, clean it up and place it on a shelf where it can be appreciated for years to come. And get something newer to actually run. They don't make that body set anymore unfortunately (which is why they are rare and expensive now), the closest is the 240Z if you want another Datsun.
  11. Still working on the spring setup, but I've been playing around with some new wheels and tires from @Frog Jumper and also swapped down to a 17t motor to try to rein it in a little. Still working on the hacked-together servo saver, too. I just need to get a new one and finally be done with it. Mrs. Gecko said it looks "posh" which might be the first time she's said that about anything of mine
  12. Just wanted to follow up here and say that I'm still not sure on my setup. I would like to try a set of the BF UJs to compare, because I do indeed have some vibration with the wheels on (any kind of wheels, not just big ones). It's not just during acceleration or deceleration either. I can hold throttle at a specific RPM and it definitely gets worse at some speeds, which seems to point to a bent axle or unbalanced wheel/tire. There is also a slight "flutter" I would call it, on acceleration, which I had previously just attributed to driveline flex (called "axle hop" in 1:1 cars). This flutter is possibly what you're talking about with the difference in the UJ orientations, but it doesn't seem bad enough to cause any issues on the ground. However I don't have a BF set to compare. I also discovered some excessive wear on my diff yokes already, probably from when I was driving without bumpstops/trailing arm stiffening. This could also be causing some of the vibrations. Notice the large gap in the yoke opening above the UJ pin, it's because the pin has worn a divot inside the diff yoke--coincidentally the same sort of issue that used to happen with the old hex shafts. Although the yoke remains usable for now, it does have a lot of slop.
  13. I'm also in the 2WD buggy camp as usual, with my old ORVs and Hoppers/Hornets plus finally a DT02 this past year. My favorites for driving are "outlaw" buggies with stadium truck wheels (or stadium trucks with buggy bodies), but a good old standard buggy is always a lot of fun too
  14. I ran the car on the bench today at all RPMs and did not get any vibration whatsoever with the wheels removed. I definitely would have seen it because the suspension is very soft, which was causing the trailing arms to "jump" under power before I put the bumpstops on. Now that the bumpstops are on, there is no indication of anything amiss--it's perfectly smooth, as it should be (same as the old hex shaft setup, anyway). I know from having the wheels on another car that they're very imbalanced, no matter what tires are on, so that could be a factor too in your case.
  15. Would love to see some pics of those airbrushed beauties if you have them! This video has also been inspiring in the same way. Only 5 years late on this one!
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