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El Gecko

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About El Gecko

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  1. I've successfully revived a decade-old NiMH and am still using it. It has good capacity (runtime) but lacks the power/punch of my newer packs. Perfect for fragile old cars with MSCs
  2. It works! The lower arms need a geometry tweak to counter some binding issues, but the whole drivetrain runs nice and smooth! Looks like it will end up about 5mm wider than a Hornet/Lunchbox rear end, and it should have about 1" of suspension travel once I fix the arms
  3. I don't think it's an odd thing to worry about that kind of stuff. I do, all the time. Most often, I leave well enough alone and try to pass it on to someone who truly wants it. The hardest part is holding onto stuff until you come across that special person. But I have been the benificiary of someone else holding onto stuff for years until they sold or gave it to me, so I see it goes both ways. I'd rather save it as it is and let the next person decide what they want to do with it. But it can be hard to suss out someone's level of appreciation over the internet. If it was my car, I'd leave it as pristine as possible (even with some defects) and post it up for sale. Someone may not want the chassis, or the electronic innards, but they may have been looking for a decent body for years and only now just come across it. Maybe it's the exact opposite. Sometimes it takes some serendipity to get it placed into a loving home. Kind of like adopting a puppy
  4. Those are in great shape! The best part is that you still have your actual cars from when you were a kid
  5. Editing takes so much longer than filming!
  6. Ah that's right, I forgot the ST motor does indeed come with adaptors. No worries then!
  7. One thing I don't think I've seen mentioned in your pinion discussions is that most pinions are made for 540 motors, which have a shaft diameter of 3.175mm (1/8") versus the 2.3mm shaft of a 380-size motor. I bought a 10T pinion for one of mine (same as the Monster Beetle one above) and then still had to make a sleeve so it would clamp tightly onto the 380 motor shaft.
  8. Hang in there @InsaneJim69 we will get through it. I've also been having 1:1 car troubles for the better part of 3 months now, finally (hopefully) getting to the light at the end of the tunnel, but man it's been a long journey. For stuff going on this weekend, I've got a fun and RC-related honey-do in progress right now. We picked up a cordless hedge trimmer from a neighbor with some wheezy old NiCds in it, which is probably the reason it was free. "Well." I thought. "I can fix that." I was never aware of "4/5" size sub c batteries before, but apparently they're not very popular. Almost every battery of that size are NiCd--I ended up having to buy a 25-pack to get 4/5 size NiMHs with decent capacity (2200mAh) but at least that means I will have quite a few cells left over for RC projects Right now six of them are gluing together into formation for the trimmer pack. Tonight is phase 2 of glue, and then hopefully soldering and testing tomorrow. This particular model of hedge trimmer came labeled as a 6.0V (5-cell) system, with a blank 6th cell in the battery pack made out of a roll of paper. Well, since it's got the room, and it runs even better on 7.2V, it's getting More Power! (insert Tim Allen meme) The last step will be to cut the plug off the old charger to make an adapter that will allow me to charge the hedge trimmer via my RC charger, so there's no need to remove the battery from the unit each time. @Mad Ax Can't wait to hear how Scaler Nats goes--hope you do a writeup this time as well, I really enjoyed your last one
  9. I did this to mine, no modification of the Tx necessary, but I used the lanyard hole so it probably wouldn't work for you, since it looks like you prefer to have a neck strap. The phone mount/cradle fits both this setup as well as my mini tripod (the black swivel base attached to the arm below came from a broken tripod of the same model). When the phone is on the front, it does get a bit heavy, but I just kind of learned to work with it. I've been keeping the phone + cradle in my pocket when I do trail walks, and then just spinning it onto the swivel mount when I'm ready to attempt an obstacle. And also, I do agree with @vodka that in order to get truly amazing action shots, it's definitely easier to have one person operating the camera while the other drives, so each can focus on their task at hand. But mine and @Mad Ax's are a good compromise for day-to-day filming. I keep the tripod in my trail bag if there's something I need full concentration for. These swivel mounts are actually pretty universal, so I could swap out the phone mount for a nice camera (if I ever manage to get a nice camera). It should also be fairly easy to set up FPV (first-person view) on the phone if I put a camera on the car
  10. As far as I know, yes. I've never had one of the tubs or squeeze tubes myself, but my cousin used it on his cars before he gave them to me, so I have horrible memories of trying to get every last drop out of the gear teeth so the things would actually run smoothly. I'd rather have a completely dry open diff that's nice and smooth than a gunked up clunker. Nowadays I just pack as much STP All-purpose grease into each diff as I can, wipe off the excess and call it good. In the truly open diffs, it will spin out a little into the rest of the gearbox, losing a bit of the limited slip effect, but even if it throws a few big globs, a thin layer stays on all the parts and continues to lubricate everything.
  11. When I was a kid, the first few times I built and rebuilt my Frog, I did everything totally dry. I soon realized that a thin layer of grease or a drop of light lube in the right place makes a big difference sometimes. As others have said, it's not just about performance, but longevity, and ease of disassembly for repairs or modifications. And I will probably get flamed for this but: I hate AW grease. Hate it. It's basically glue.
  12. I don't know for sure about the Lancia, but I can say with certainty that my vintage Brat has NO diff whatsoever. It's just a single large gear with a metal plug in the center that looks like a nut--I'm assuming to give the splines on the diff yokes a more solid interface than if they just fit right into the plastic gear. The diff yokes/drive cups are also solid compared to the hollow diff version with a hole down the center for the alignment pin. I'll take some pics the next time it's all apart but the spur gear is different too IIRC.
  13. Agreed, I like the M wheels/Scorcher tires the most, but the comical wheels look great too. Love that you've kept the Fast Traxx stickers on
  14. Bashed around with my cousin and his brushless/lipo 4x4 Slash yesterday. A pin from one of his driveshafts came loose and sliced through a turnbuckle end, so after I did a field fix for him, he convinced me to take it home to do a teardown/rebuild for him with some upgrades. Should be a fun project Also posted a bunch of new stuff about the Big Bubba down in the Nikko section. Driveshafts are complete! Axle carriers coming soon!
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