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El Gecko

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About El Gecko

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  1. Same here! No results this time, just a few practice runs on the grass with no timer. It was a fun track though!
  2. How do you reinforce lexan/polycarb bodies without affecting the outside looks of them? Is it something that needs to be done before paint? I have an old cracked lexan body that I'd like to respray and use on a chassis, but it has similar issues to Corranga's--namely that it's split in key points where more strength is needed. Those key points are not flat, so tape will not suffice. I notice this happens with a lot of truck style bodies because of where the body mounts are located at the front and the back, the body sags in the middle and puts extra stress in some places, increasing chance of breakage.
  3. The "Turbo Dasher" is a 1/16 scale truck? I thought it was a 1/14 scale body--just with a short wheelbase because it's based on a Datsun mini-truck. I have its sister the Big Bubba with a wrecked chassis from when I was a kid, and this thread has got me thinking of fixing it up... and wondering if the body would just plonk right onto a GF01TR chassis from the Monster Beetle Trail. I've been considering a CW-01 or WR02 as well, but I'm not sure the real sizes/wheelbases of any of them in comparison. I think the CW-01 is too long and the WR02 is a smidge too short.
  4. Cool bit of engineering but I'm curious what the ground clearance is like on the lower ball links. I know they move when the wheels go over bumps, but it still seems that they'd get quite bashed up on rough terrain if they hang below the skid plate as it appears they do from the pics.
  5. I wouldn't know... mine has never had a body! (just a driver figure) Totally agree with you about those tires btw... I still have my original set! But they're pretty much toast these days, so it would be awesome if somebody started making new ones, even if it's not Pro-Line themselves.
  6. Makes sense to me, I definitely see the connection there. I'd guess electric RCs in general are here to stay, especially as 1:1 battery tech advances in the future. That's the nice thing about hobby-grade stuff: it can be rebuilt at any point in its lifetime with current tech vs. getting chucked in the bin or relegated to the shelf for being inoperable. As long as you can get (or make) parts that fit, it will most likely still work in a hundred years or more (depending if the plastic breaks down etc. but you get the idea). There are also the actual shelfer collectors too.
  7. This is the picture I see in my mind when I think back to working on my Frog as a youngster except mine was a hand-me-down and never looked that shiny! (or had that much tread on its tires)
  8. Found a stowaway It was really wedged in there!
  9. I think that's the most fun part of the hobby for me (besides driving), even though I don't have a 3D printer or cnc machine or any fancy tools really. I've fabricated things on nearly every one of my cars, and it definitely keeps things cheap, because I usually ask myself before ordering anything: Could I make that part myself? And the answer in a surprising number of cases has been: Yes, I can. As long as I can find suitable raw materials and have a good think about how it all goes together
  10. I was never a racer, so this is an apt description of what I do as well (although I have gone bashing with my cousin a few times recently and started to get a bit of a speed bug). For me, anything that can be pulled from the shelf, fresh batteries added, and taken out with my current Tx and driven around--no matter the age or speed or handling--is a runner. I have cars that are special to me, so they're driven less frequently, and I restrain my driving a bit on those rare occasions, but they still get driven (and broken, from time to time).
  11. I've been bit by the RC bug since I was a kid in the 80s, it's just only now that my life is settled enough to let it flourish. Back into it for a year now, and I've only managed to add a single chassis to my modest fleet since then, and it's one of my most frequent drivers (using one of my old bodies). I'm a trickle-tinkerer at heart, although my wife would tell you different over the last year. In reality my big push has been to get hardware and electronics so the 8 other basketcase chassis could be run (old cars that my cousins gave me when I was young). I've been building and rebuilding these 8 cars since then (some of them still don't have bodies), and most still need quite a bit of tweaking and tuning (and better parts), but there is enough there that I will probably be working on them for years to come. After going so many years NOT driving RCs, I'm just happy that I can drive them all! (need to work on waterproofing so I can drive in all seasons)
  12. Half-year update: Everything runs! I don't know how it has all worked out, but my feeble bush mechanics has resulted in all 9 chassis up and running, ready to go with a charged battery. There's still a lot of tuning and tweaking (and bodywork), but this was a huge milestone that I didn't expect to reach so soon! Thanks to many on TC (and many other places on the internet) for all the ideas and help along the way (special shout-out to @Unknown Driver for the huge hook up on all the Traxxas junk--it was instrumental in this!)
  13. It could just be that the trim is set wrong on your transmitter, and the servo is pushing the MSC wiper arm past the contact point for full throttle. Mechanical Speed Controls like this can be finicky to set up. It's like adjusting the gearshift cables on a bicycle, or the throttle cable on a carburetor. The actuator rod could also be in the wrong hole in the servo arm, or the servo arm could have stripped splines or some other issue (I notice that there is no screw securing the arm to the servo). The old AM radio gear is probably not helping the situation. The MSC wiper arm moves every time the servo does, so even if you're holding it at full throttle, any little electronic interference could cause the servos to glitch, causing the MSC to lose the connection between the battery and motor. A new radio set (transmitter and receiver) will help tons, and you can still use your old MSC or switch to an ESC (Electronic Speed Control) if you want more precise control.
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