El Gecko

Gonna try adding smaller parallel capacitors at some point but I've determined that it IS the batteries and the ESC working together to cause the half-throttle limp mode to kick in, even with that giant cap on the battery leads. The NiMHs drop their voltage after the first (barely!) 5 minutes in low temperatures, and the ESC thinks something's wrong, so limp mode is activated. It's weird but on both cars with 1060s, sometimes if I reverse and then go forward again, it comes back to full power, but once it has started going into limp mode, it just gets worse as the battery gets colder and the voltage drops even further. By contrast, I can drive my Traxxas XL-5 ESC in any temperature all day long with either battery, and it doesn't cut out, because I don't think it has a low voltage NiMH limp mode like the 1060. Can I just unplug the Lipo/NiMH jumper completely, or will the 1060 freak out? I want to try to disable low voltage detection (and limp modes) of any kind before I build a capacitor array that may or may not work.

Well, I don't know about current Traxxas models, or the Arrma brand in general, but what you've laid out (except the 4WD bit) is essentially why I've cobbled my old Sledgehammer back together: I needed something with bigger tires and higher ground clearance than a Blackfoot for bombing around in the woods and rougher terrain. It's also really easy to swap pinion gears on the Sledge (10T pinion!), and the Blackfoot only really has one gearing option.

It's only "mostly-harmless" to the people making the jokes. It all contributes to general negativity in the world, and as you've said, we could all do with less of that these days.

Trying to kick me out too? You wish. This is a great look for the forum, keep going.

Apparently this needs to be spelled out for you. Just because a group of people don't comment on these forums doesn't mean they don't read them. You all seem to think that this is your own little bubble and you can say whatever you want about whoever you want. (It's not.) My point is that you are disparaging "wives" as a group (women, by extension) with the simple existence of this thread. Then you are attempting to defend and cover that up with flat attempts at "humour" and "get back to topic". The topic was flawed from the start. If you have felt the need to respond to my comments, perhaps you should ask yourself WHY you are so quick to defend bullying, of any sort. What does my age, mental state, or place of origin have to do with my comments here? NOTHING. Yet many of you have disparaged ME in those ways as well. Just as I said yesterday. The mob mentality of the thread has taken over.

How utterly predictable, and sad. But hey, don't let me ruin the party. You're just helping to prove my point. I thought Tamiyaclub was a different kind of place, but now I see the true colors.

So now it's considered trolling to want a basic standard of human decency on a freakin RC toy forum? Yikes. Seems I've stepped into the wrong sandbox.

Hey geniuses, you can have humor without bashing. No one is saying take away the humor. I'm saying take away the bashing.

Yes, I can choose not to read it. I can also choose to read it, and choose to call you out for being an insensitive dolt. The first one only benefits me. The second benefits the whole forum (and the world) should you heed my advice.

I'm not "defending" anything. I'm saying that this whole thread is wife-bashing, and the thread has now basically turned to mob mentality to defend itself. Hardly RC-related fun IMHO.

Excuse you. Don't write it in a PUBLIC, INTERNATIONAL forum if you don't want it read and commented on. YOU are the one being disrespectful here, NOT me. Re: different situations, freakin DUH. I even said in a previous post to NOT paint the whole gender with the same brush. HELLO reading comprehension.

There is no humor here. Just a bunch of overgrown children thinking it's ok to bash on a certain group of people. Well news flash, this forum is public and international. Your disrespect spans the globe. Congratulations.

That is only your opinion. You had a bad experience. Let's not disrespect a whole gender on that basis.

Hello. I am not a child. It seems you need to find respect for people other than women as well. Good job focusing only on the money aspect. Apparently I was mistaken. I thought a wife was for better or worse, no matter how much money you think they cost you.

Wow, some of you have no respect. No wonder there aren't any females around here.

Hmm, that's surprising. 3/8" or 3.75" = 9.525mm, which leaves 0.475mm Divide by two and you only have to remove 0.2375mm all the way around which is less than a quarter of a millimeter. You're saying there's not enough room for that?

Would a 10mm O.D. bearing fit the 3/8" wheel hole with a bit of machining? Or perhaps a 9mm O.D. bearing with a sleeve?

The force is strong with this one! Blackfoots (Blackfeet?) rock And so do Mongoose BMX!

Well granite is one of the harder rock types, so I'd guess you'll be fine, but the only way to really know is to do some recon and try it out before you commit to setting up a track etc.

Did you get screws with Torx drive heads or something else?

Did you try a different (known, working) servo?

On the contrary, I've completely destroyed the front tires on both my Grasshoppers doing postal racing, although they were fairly well-worn to begin with. So I get where you're coming from. I'll be making a snow track for this one, so you guys shouldn't take me seriously. If everyone likes jupitertwo's layout better, I promise I won't be offended and will have just as much fun racing trying to race on it as the rest of you

That's a good point, and something I have been wondering about for NiMHs in particular. Different brands advertise different discharge rates, but most of them match the mAh of the battery (i.e. 4200mAh battery is shown having a 42C discharge rate) which I can't believe is accurate. The few that don't are vastly under that--like 15C for a 3800mAh battery--so I'm not sure which value they're giving, whether it's a "peak" value or something like a "nominal" or "steady" discharge rate, or if it's a difference in measurement or something.

I was thinking about the crossover too, but then we might as well just use @jupitertwo's suggestion prior to my modification. It's a similar age-old dilemma when designing an HO slot car track--how to equalize the lane lengths without an overpass. It's impossible, just like equalizing tire wear, so my goal is to just make tracks that are fun to run on. If tire wear becomes a big concern, you can always swap the worn ones to the opposite side after a few runs

I moved the markers around a bit... thoughts? Still on a 5x3m marker footprint.