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droidy

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  1. Have a look at Tamiya 54420 2.6x5mm Titanium Screw - 5pcs. "These durable, lightweight titanium screws replace the kit standard steel screws used to secure shafts on suspension arms of the TRF201, TRF511, TRF502, and XV-01 chassis machines" from rcjaz. These flat pancake heads seem to be called "truss screws".
  2. No experience but it seemed to "just work" in this video: https://youtu.be/n1Ly_H-HsrU
  3. The cheapest Aus kits often have no ESC these days so make sure you understand each listing in detail because it varies a lot by shop and kit. I wouldn't be surprised if both of those kits had no ESC with those prices, whereas a year ago you would have got a tble-02s or tble-04s (pot luck which one) included for about that price.
  4. Try logging in first, then you can see cart totals
  5. Nice! If you search "Tamiya 57402", PJ has a kit in stock right now but with no ESC/Receiver unit.
  6. @steponit!, Tamiya switch Lubricant is cheap and convenient, and Tamiya say it's the best for your MSC so you can trust them: https://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/87023/index.html However I'm sure there are lots of other products that work well. My general advice is to do your research if you want to experiment. 1:1 car products are good because they often tell you exactly what the product is for, how to use them, and what the safety and suitability requirements are. E.g. one article I found about dielectric grease said it's (often? always?) - silicone-based, so if you get it on your silicone rubber o-rings it will break them down over time. @Saito2 I went through a phase of screws falling out of servos and the like, got obsessed with putting thread lock everywhere, then damaged and destroyed 3-4 chassis Of course I read about it, but now I really *know* how thread lock and plastic don't mix. The amazing thing about this hobby is learning about all the tools, materials, lubricants, electrics, battery chemistry, mechanics, dynamics, tires, paint, artistry, sport and so on which means every one of us will find our own area of expertise.
  7. I don't know if Tamiya Switch Lubricant is a dielectric grease, but I hope it is because the little tubes are very handy and I use them to keep my XT60 connectors easy to dis/connect. Google tells me you *do* want dielectric grease on electrical contacts - it doesn't affect resistance as long as you have a good mechanical connection, and conductive grease is dangerous because of the risk of arcing and short circuits.
  8. There's a lot of good info here, like the Chassis Types heading: https://www.rcscrapyard.net/au/tamiya.htm#tamiya5 A bit of categorisation here: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm Some really nice info here: https://blackholesun.fr/index.php/en/39-en/tamiya
  9. That's a good tip. Is it also easy to build? For example the T3-01 trike is a wonderful kid's rc because it's small and cute and self-righting, but some of the drive train and suspension and steering is a bit fiddly to build (from the perspective of a young kid).
  10. Some things are very physically demanding, especially turnbuckles and that ... third high torque servo saver spring. It's hard for young kids (<8-10?) to have enough patience, but they love getting involved and doing something here and there as long as they don't have to stick around for the full build. It would be nice if the simpler kits were easier to build. E.g. Lunchbox is simple but old so I remember a few weird build steps. Mini 4wd and no-tools little gundam are a good start. They love choosing the paint but prefer building Lego.
  11. Those are wild, thanks for the pics I reckon they would keep up with a CC-01 on the trail and even have better front and rear clearance for crawling. Large dish wheels are a nice compromise for normal wheels with a little more clearance but then you lose the all important monster fun factor! I can just imagine the wheelies if you found enough torque...
  12. Cool! Do you have any pics? Just big wheels, and which wheels, or did you need new axles and stuff?
  13. It will slop around a bit more, have more friction (won't help the shocks ) and wear out over time but work just fine.
  14. I haven't tried the cover but if your motor and esc get hot without the cover they will definitely get hotter with it on. You can either run a cooler motor, cut some air vents in the cover or cut some vents and attach a fan to the cover - with strategic placement to try to keep the cover effective. I haven't tried this either but a desktop computer cooling technique is positive pressure where you blow the fan into the case/cover, to increase the pressure inside so it's "pushing out" all the time, to stop dust from getting in. It might help with the fine dust build up from running in dry dirty conditions.
  15. It's because all of those parts will be specific to the track and the class you run in. Although the good thing about a stack of old silvercans that never get used is as a consumable for 3S bashing. (I've never tried it but I've heard plenty of people mention it.)
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