bozdee
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Posts posted by bozdee
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Try Amazon or RCJaz
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2 hours ago, Rixsta said:
Nice build. What metal spur gear is that please ? Part number or any info would be much appreciated.
I’m about to start mine soon, not a cheap build is it ha
I found and purchased from eBay. The chap doesn’t have it listed presently but I’m sure you can get in touch so he can machine it for you. eBay user is cannonsdinh. The actual spur itself is dimensionally identical to Tamiya High Speed Spur #54500.
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Am using full metal GPM diffs front and back. Bulletproof so far.
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Once my car and my children’s car are both complete I intend on keeping them in the van! I drive all over town for work so if I see a good spot I can just pop them out and go for a bash!
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So a bit of an update. I’ve ripped out the Tamiya ESC and dropped in the Hobbywing Xerun XR8 SCT. I have some soldering to do this weekend but it looks to be a nice snug fit:
The children are slacking off a little but need them to swap out the remaining steel bearings in their car for the ceramic ones. Still waiting for their Hobbywing Xerun XR10 to arrive though:
The nose of their Dual Ridge shell was starting to crack and break. Regardless it doesn’t fit in nicely between the uprights of the YR shock tower so I circumcised it and made it look like the Neo Scorcher:
That’s it for now. I’ll post some more updates once I’ve soldered my wires and perhaps a video of it running as it should be pretty quick!
Next upgrade attempt is a urethane bumper. I’ve purchased the standard TT02 B-parts and hoping to make them work with the bumper so let’s see how we fare!
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On 2/28/2021 at 9:22 PM, Carmine A said:
Love the Ball Bearing Hack!! 👍👍 That might work well when I start on my extra Ground Clearance Hacks.
I've definitely done my share of paint bloopers! Nothing a few well placed Decals can't fix. 😉
I think the paint splotches are rather unfortunate but they’ll add to the slightly haphazard character of the build!
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Just finished my McLaren F1 inspired TT02B. Unfortunately it only goes for about 30 seconds before the ESC goes into overload protection but new esc is on the way. I messed up the paint slightly due to impatience but it’s a basher so she’s going to see some use! Also, for the keen-eyed, you’ll notice I’m using spare ball bearings between the gearbox casing and the diff cups. This is so the universals don’t flick out of the drive cups!
Hop-up parts list:
-Tamiya GRP; tub, gearbox covers, body mounts, lower suspension arms front and rear.
-Tamiya stainless shaft suspension bridge (front only - doesn’t fit the rear).
-GPM full steel diffs front and rear.
-Custom stainless steel single piece machined 68T spur.
-Plaig Bearings Premium V2 ceramic bearings.
-Tamiya prop shaft and prop shaft joints.
-Surpass Hobby 28T pinion.
-Yeah Racing; short outdrives, universals, c-hub (front), front knuckles, rear knuckles, front shock tower, rear shock tower, alloy steering kit.
-GPM shocks.
-Tamiya slotted dish wheels painted gun metal grey and wrapped in Tamiya Dual Block C tyres.
-Tamiya; alloy servo mount, full turnbuckle kit, servo saver kit with alloy horn, servo saver cap.
-Yeah Racing; battery posts, battery holder.
-RC Scrauben high-tensile steel hex screw kit.
-Tamiya TBLM02S 10.5T with Tamiya alloy heat sink.
-Tamiya TBLE02S; power switch deleted, tamiya plug deleted replaced with Deans plug, added TFU-01 fan.
-Futaba T3PV transmitter and receiver.
-Savox SC-1256TG servo.
-Ovonic 6200mah 2S lipo battery.
-Tamiya Neo Scorcher Body painted (poorly) to resemble (kinda) McLaren’s last few generations of Formula 1 car (inspired by @ALEXKYRIAK Formula Neo buggy).
I will be replacing the Tamiya ESC with a Hobbywing Xerun XR8 SCT Pro.
Other future upgrades include retro fitting a TT02 style foam bumper to give more of a ‘front wing’ appearance to the front.
Biggest issues with the build were; impatience with painting and resulting poor finish, impatience with sandpaper on the wheels and using 120 grit sand paper instead of buying something much finer resulting in poor finish, TBLE02S constantly going into protection mode after fitting 28T pinion.
Overall it was a really fun build and now need to get back and help the kids finish their TT02B (anodised pink Dual Ridge Body)!
Here are some posts that cover the build starting with the original kit the kids built then as morphed into 2 once I realised I’d bought enough upgrades to make 2 cars!
The kids assembling the diffs:
The standard kit taking shape:
The kids car with the pink anodised Dual Ridge shell finally receiving some upgrades after I forced them to build it completely stock (even with bushings). We decided to go LiPo after originally starting with NiMh hence the connector adapter:
Kids car off to the side now and I’ve started with my kit starting with the GRP tub:
Unfortunately I didn’t get a photo of the GPM gears. They were a nightmare as one of the bevel gears was poorly machined and I had a hard time getting on the end of the prop shaft joint. I had to spend an hour with the dremel trying to machine it out.
Stainless spur gear:
Tamiya 10.5t motor in place:
Originally went in with an 18T pinion. The metal pinion on metal spur makes a horrible noise:
I had the YR alloy arms but decided against these in lieu of the Tamiya GRP arms:
Started with the Xtra Speed shocks but dropped them in favour of the GPM ones:
I purchased longer M3 screws with nuts and fed them into the aperture on the underside of the tub. This is the only way to really get the slop out of the TT02 steering. Along with the ground clearance (TT02B only), this is one of the weakest parts of this design:
Some TBLE02S hacks; removed the Tamoya plug and went with Deans, also shortened the motor wires and soldered the Tamiya plugs directly to the wires, finally I deleted the power switch and soldered the 2 contact points that switch the ESC on. I didn’t bother with the LiPo cut-off hack at this point:
As you can see I opted for a LiPo alarm instead:
I managed to crack the tub on its first outing, oops:
I tried to get the YR universals to work but for some reason they flew out. I have another post going about this but before I worked out my ballbearing hack, I tried the standard dogbones which worked up until a point. That point was when they fell out in the long grass. Thankfully I found them and the one diff cup that fell out too. The standard chunky wheel cups also gouged a hole in the lower suspension arm (not too clear in the photo):
I went back the YR universals and jammed a spare ballbearing in here to stop the driveshafts from flying out. Funnily, I had to do it on all 4 corners on my car. On the children’s car (largely identical) it’s only the rears that need the bearing spacer as the end of the universal fits snugly on the front:
YR shock tower rear:
Front view with bearing spacer hack:
The finished product:
McLaren MCL33 inspired paint:
Front view:
You can see where I had issue with overspray and blotches where I was too impatient between costs of paint. I painted the orange first and when I had done a few coats I took off the masking and went to blue. Then I backed the whole thing with silver. What I should’ve done was finish painting orange, silver, black (or gun metal in my case as no black has been available for ages in Australia). Once complete, I should’ve then removed the masking and then repeated that process to effectively seal both colours. The rear wing turned out a lot nicer:
The finished product in the sun. As I bought the neo scorcher shell on its own I didn’t get any decals. I have a few and will probably add a few tasteful decals to the wing and the ‘carbon’ gun metal grey stripe down the side:
Thanks for viewing! I’ll post some updates soon and perhaps the kids car too once the rest of their upgrades arrive!
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45 minutes ago, Problemchild said:
Measure everything for me and I’ll compare
lower arms
steering arms
turnbuckles
JJ
See the photos.
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Has anyone put a foam bumper on a TT02B? The standard bumper is a little inadequate and I’d love to have a foam bumper on there.
Is there any solution, Tamiya or otherwise that is plug and play?
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On 2/23/2021 at 5:07 AM, Problemchild said:
Measure the dog bones
JJ
They are all the same! I can’t work out where the difference is! This is driving me crazy!
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Ok so I looked at this kids car and they don’t seem to have the same problem on the front. The only differences between the two being they have GPM turnbuckles in lieu of Tamiya and they have the kit lower arms whereas I have the Hop-up Tamiya ones (GRP). I don’t think I’ll be able to (or need to) fit a bearing in the front.
The problem still seems to be there on the rear.
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13 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:
My concern is that your bearing trick means that the diff cups are not completely mating with the diff gears anymore and you'll have a driveline failure soon.
Going to take a risk on this one.
9 hours ago, Matty36 said:Does it still have the issue with the original shocks fitted.
will test that out tonight, I mean the aftermarket shocks are the same size so you’d think it wouldn’t matter but let’s see.
5 hours ago, Problemchild said:You sure those are the correct dog bones?
if the lower arm is the correct length it can only be the drive shafts or the drive cups
I use yeah racing ones and I don’t have the issue you are seeing
im sure my metal drive shafts look different
JJ
I only have the standard plastic dogbones, drive cups and diff cups (the chunky ones). They don’t work and 100% they are the correct ones as they came with the kit.
Aftermarket stuff as follows:
YR diff cups for TT02 - https://www.yeahracing.com/steel-front-rear-gear-joint-for-tamiya-tt02-tt02-017-00036592?search=Tt02&description=true
YR universals for DF03 and TT02B - https://www.yeahracing.com/g45-universal-steel-swing-shaft-for-tamiya-df03-tt02b-df03-015v2-00026617?search=Tt02b&description=true
4 hours ago, Problemchild said:So my front drive shafts are 76mm
(note the collar halfway along the length)
the stand off between the top arm fixing point and the hub rotating point is 12mm
And the axle stub protruding from the YR hub is 16mm
are you sure you have a bearing in on the inside of the hubs??
JJ
Will check all measurements tonight but yes, I do have bearings inside the hub.
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11 minutes ago, Matty36 said:
I would try moving the top shocks in as far as possible and the lower shock as far out as possible to limit the amount of travel. For a better fix I would put a spacer in the shock to limit the travel.
Good suggestion but nothing seems to work shocks wise, there is just too much play but the more the shocks compress, the more the problem resolves.
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17 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:
I got these: https://www.gpmparts.com/tamiya-tt02b-steel45-frontrear-cvd-swing-shaft-64mm-1pr-set-for-dt03-gpm-stt2b264c-p-90068334.html but I'm not sure where you can find them in stock these days. They shouldn't be too hard to find.
Edit: there you go https://www.ebay.com/itm/GPM-DT3264SC-Steel-CVD-Universal-Swing-Shaft-Set-For-Tamiya-DT02-DT03-TT02B/131885304490?epid=1378709583&hash=item1eb4fa0aaa:g:U~kAAOSwPhdU1IG9
(no affiliation, just helping out)
I intended to secure the steering arms like you did, but the spare screws I had on hand were a little long, so I just turned them around lol. Sort of a bodge, but it works just as well.
Almost bought these today if it weren’t for my bearing trick. I actually was going to bin all of the YR bits in favour of the GPM ones.
So the GPM universals fit the chunky diff cups in lieu of the small ones? Very hard to tell from the eBay listing and not much info on their website. Tamiya also have their own diff cups and universals that I looked at.
I ended up going to the local hardware to get screws the right size. I think 18mm was the correct size.
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2 hours ago, DaveBuildsRC said:
Shocks too long?
Same as stock. Ran in the higher position to get more clearance but moved to standard position and still had issues.
2 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:I have the exact same setup, except for one difference: I'm using the standard TT02B 'chunky' diff outdrives, and CVDs that have bigger ends on the diff side to properly fit into those outdrive cups. That works a treat, and I've never had anything pop out, despite having monster wheels on my TT02B and driving on rough terrian, in anger, quite often.
This is the best pic I have at hand; hopefully you can see the (proper) mating between the diff cup and the CVD:
Where did you get the universals with the bigger side the suit the chunky outdrives?
Love how you secured the steering arms! I went the other way and slid the m3 nut into the aperture on the underside of the tub!
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They are already shorter than the standard upper arms. So the wheels are already tipping in a fair bit.
The bearing trick seems to be the best workaround I can think of at the minute.
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Best thing I can think of this far is to chuck an extra bearing here to push the universals further into the knuckle and stop the movement.
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Hi Team,
I’m building a couple of TT02Bs for a bit of fun with me and the kids. I’m currently having an issue with the axles. For reference I’m using GPM shocks, YR gearbox joints, universals, knuckles and the Tamiya turnbuckle kit. I’ve tried eliminating the issue by going back to the standard dogbones, knuckles and suspension positions all with not much luck. My issue thus far has mainly been with the rear but there is also a lot of play in the front too.
Basically, I can’t stop the dogbone/universal from popping out. Any ideas on how I can correct this issue and ideally keep the aftermarket bits?
TT02B upgrade question
in General discussions
Posted
Might be a bit late but I found the yeah racing stuff gave me some problems with the standard drives and bones. Namely the bones fell out of the cups but also had the cups grinding into the lower arms. It could be suspension related too but the shocks I’m using are the same length as standard but mounted in the inner holes to give better clearance.
I see you’ve already ordered so hopefully you chose wisely!