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About Ryz82

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  1. So very true. Bodyworx / WC have a few that hold up well, but most are devoid of any definition and rely on their cartoon decals to provide some semblance of the actual car. I think Colt ? also offers an 80 series, I think i saw it on RCMart at one point. But i have no reference for the quality of Colt bodies.
  2. Bodyworx do an 80 Series shell, but in typical bodyworx fashion, its a pretty low detail
  3. Yeh they are non esc. But easy enough to get locally, think i may even still have a couple of tamiya laying around still.
  4. Cheers, had no idea these guys existed, and sell direct too. Definitely helpful.
  5. @Beetlemankurt Whats the store/availability like over there in NZ ? I've stumbled across, is it Hobby Station ? they have some MST rims im keen to pickup, and being just the other side of the ditch and near parity in the dollar, might end up looking there, as opposed to further o/s.
  6. These first builds will traditional, as trying to match some ATCC liveries. But have some ideas to try for other combinations on whatever other shells end up coming with these kits. Yep, Sierra RS500 in the wings, along with BMW E30 and a EK9 Civic
  7. Thanks all for the support and wishes. I think I will just end up piecing these ones together; can find some standard kits for the $168-200 AUD locally (Toyota Supra Racing A80) - stock withstanding - a set of Yeah Racing bearings looks about $25ish AUD on top of that. The cheapest D spec kit I can find is $250ish, which just for the added bearings, and oil shocks, might be a bit much, but having said that, looking locally (AU) I'm struggling to find a set of oil dampers. The Super Mini CVA are available - but having never used them, not sure if they are shorter than the ideal 50/55mm for the TT-01/2 ? Alternatively I can see some Yeah Racing Big Bores available at $70ish AUD which on top of the kit starts pushing me into the D spec territory. Unfortunately, and I'm not sure if it's just me, but it appears RCMart has changed their website, so the shopping cart no longer gives you a total of all items. Which makes it really hard to then convert to AUD to determine if they are infact still cheaper than locally sourced
  8. The Astute has grown on me since its release, but @ $369 AUD it's a bit of steep ask - it's the price of 2 TT-02s over here I already have the shells ready for the TT-02 so hence the initial question. If I was going to go buggy again, the DT-03 (Frog) would be where I'd go to complete my collection, OG, Re-Re and Tam Tech.
  9. Thanks Budget, trying to keep it reasonable, stock is pretty limited here in Aus, the odd Tamiya kit here and there, but nothing consistent stock wise, which means dealing - most likely with RCMart. Definitely not looking for rocket out the box, as will be sticking with ST-540 or perhaps TZ or UGT, so the key is really bearings and perhaps some upgraded shocks initially, as still run on some pretty uneven bitumen around here at times. Ideally would be looking to get everything in one order too, so that was the thought on a D spec - don't care about the drift tires - but coming ball raced already, ideally would help even out the other costs.
  10. After 18+ months of battling cancer, I am finally in a place to start enjoying life again, and what better way than to kick off the coming new year with our favourite hobby. Looking forward to finally getting stuck into the various ATCC inspired builds I had planned out prior to my diagnosis, and a Frog inspired build also. With that in mind, I've noticed in the time that has passed, there are a few new releases or upgrades that have come through the pipeline, so was just wondering ... Is picking up a TT-02 D kit still the best (most cost effective) point of entry for a reliable basher; being they are (AFAIK still) fully ball raced out the box? Are the new? RR or SR variants (replacing the R and S respectively) worth a look at? My original TT-02 was an R kit. Or is simply going the bog standard 02 and then getting bearings and any other hop-ups separately as required? As it appears, unsurprisingly, prices seem to have also fluctuated quite a bit while I've been out of the game.
  11. Re-masked the Sierra. Ended up thinning the line work down a little. Still not perfect, that front right quarter panel and bumper just isn't going to cooperate. But with the thinner line (at least based on the impression the tape gives) it looks less funky. I just hope I haven't done too much damage to it with all the adhering and removing of tape. Have done my best to keep it clean and dry between attempts. Hopefully can get some paint down tomorrow or day after before I have to take my extended break. IF nothing else, painted it will then give me some food for thought while I'm undergoing treatment/recovering as to whether or not painting was the right approach, or if I should consider using decals for them. Not to mention the elephant in the room which is Tamiya PS-19 Camel Yellow hahaha Not only did I have to pick a livery with these straight lines, but also one which is neither truly yellow or truly camel yellow.
  12. DOH. Was hoping you were going to say that yours has no such issue and that the L&L on order might be a better candidate than my local one, which may just have been a bad batch or pull from the mold. Think I'm either going to have to live with the right side being out of whack, or possibly try and narrow/thin the line down so it still stay straight and at least keeps the livery consistent, if not exact. Or worst case just not have the red line extend fully into the front quarter panel (last resort). Thanks everyone for the support re chemo. Second go around this year already, hoping this time we manage to get it all and remission lasts. Just need to keep the online retail therapy in check during the process haha, still too many unfinished projects delayed from last round.
  13. I believe its the same one as L&L sells. Over here in AU it was/is sold by Body Worx, but comes with TC decals (I designed and got my own decals printed as no-one does the B&H livery I'm after) and they all appear to be the same as what L&L sells. I currently have a L&L version on order as was the only way I could get the 3D wing, as here the body came with a flimsy Lexan wing (and that's being generous if I call it a wing). For the most part the body/shell does appear straight, its just looks like the front right quarter panel when you have the Texaco and Motorcraft logo is angled upwards too much, or the bumper is actually higher than it should be? It's also possible is just a result of the body being cut out now and the thinner Lexan ? Or a bad molding ? or maybe I'm just being way too picky, haha But the red line on the B&H livery which runs straight along, across front wheel arch up to the headlights, ends up running almost flush with the bumper when I mask it off. As opposed to still having some yellow between it and the actual bumper as seen in previous photo) if that makes sense ? IF I get time, I'll try and post an image with the most recent masking attempts - the left side is not as bad. Sadly, I will be starting chemo again next week, so everything will be getting put on hold for an unknown period of time again anyways, so it will all have to wait before I can get around to painting regardless ** PHOTOS ADDED ** This was from second attempt at masking, have since removed these and will be going at it again, I admit this one again wasn't great. I tried using a separate piece of tape for the front quarter panel instead of running one long piece across the entire side (which is what I did the first attempt) but to me the right side here is just not, well for lack of a better word, right. Again the left isn't perfectly parallel/straight, but its still much closer to real livery - and no it isn't just my hand holding the front, pulling the shell straight in the left side picture.
  14. Ripped up my masking, and started again. Straight lines are great and all, but when the body/shell isn't, they aren't. I had to pick a dam livery to replicate that is all about straight lines that run full length of the body ....argh! Sadly I think it just gonna have to do now, as even if I was to switch out to using decals, the front quarter panels are just out of whack. If I follow the correct positioning for the livery, which follows the bumpers, which should thus follow the mold lines of the shell, it would sill produce weird angles and be non parallel looking. Hoping once all done, painted and decals on, its less noticeable and just becomes a 'quirk'. For reference this is the livery I'm "attempting" to replicate.
  15. Started masking off Sierra body for painting. Having decided to not use decals for the body stripes - hey straight lines how hard can it be - am now somewhat regretting my decision ... one side done, but sooooo much wasted tape. For sanity sake, have stopped and will try and replicate/mirror other side tomorrow.
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