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Everything posted by Ryz82

  1. As said, i found it saved me a lot of pain and grievances - even with scissors, i always found arches frustrating; end up with 1 good and 3 *******, or 3 good and 1 *******. The only recommendation with the compass cutters, are a) practice if you can first and b) as with score and snap technique, do multiple runs/scores - after which you can just peel around (or snap). Oh, and with practice i mean in terms of learning what pressure is needed. The last thing you want is for you to get half way around a score, or after multiple scores, and have the needle slip from the centre point of the arch, and you all of a sudden score all of the shop
  2. I use a combination of score-snap/peel and scissors - it really depends on the body im working with - and then for wheel arches that are circular or as close to circular as possible, i use a compass cutter. Typically this results in (if using a touring car body): ALL skirts done with score-snap/peel ALL wheel arches started with compass-cutter; finished with scissors ANY ares were theres a lot of mold variance; e.g. bumper curves under and up or just areas where the lexan as become more solid as a result of a bend or shape, i'll typically use scissors. FINALLY clean up any intricate areas with a blade/hobby-knife and then a light sand along edges I cant say i usually use any serous rough scouring when washing, just a softer scotch-bright type cleaning sponge, and a good amount of detergent. Mostly use the sponge side, but do use the rougher side for a light rub, but nothing serious. Then as others have said, a light coat to start, and build up as required or color/scheme dictates.
  3. I thought they shared a bit more than that. Not that it really matters, as chances are neither will be getting a re-re and this is all hyperbole fuled by internet rumours. Personally the fragility factor doesnt phase me too much. I think, that still comes down to how you plan to use/run them; knowing limits etc. I understand each kit has their own weak points, or parts, and people like to focus on them - recent VQS re-re apparently not updating a known weak component - but i wonder how many people who picked up the re-re (or didnt as a result of the lack of change to that part) are/were going to turn them into shelf queens vs occasional runner (with stock or slighly modded electronics) vs hardcore runner (upgraded eletronics) ?
  4. Yeh was going to go the PRO with the better handles, was thinking more the bit itself, and use with separate handle and ratchet i already have. But either way, definatley be picking at least the PRO versions
  5. Seems a fairly solid consensus here. May grab the L bit for my ratchet driver/handle for extra ease, and just pickup the M as full screwdriver.
  6. Whats the common size for the Tamiya (JIS/Philips) screwdriver ? Is the M (medium) #74119 or L (large) #74120 preferred for covering most of the kits needs ? Not sure if i should pick up both, or possibly go with the ratcheted version #74152 (or shaft for use in separate driver #69932) both of which are the L (large) only. Currently use a small ratchetted set from LHWS with multiple normal philips heads, and although the ratchet has improved reliabliity (less strippping) i still end up with a few (self tapers usually) where the extra force required still ends up stripping or near stirppping the heads completley
  7. Thats why i turned mine into a rally converison haha.
  8. Haha, happy i could tick them off the list for you Fox good design, just dont agree with blue/silver color scheme; a Fox is not aquatic, give me some gold, yellow, orange etc heck even white. Vanquish/VQS just bland looking, great body lines though; needs to be metalic however. Super Astuate, at leats im not alone based on a few other posts.
  9. Had striken this from memory until now. And dont get me started on blacked out window decals, on any body: buggy, truggie or touring.
  10. Pearl White really ?? must be the lighting, looks like a matte grey, almost my like its made of putty, or some sort of shape shifting material, something that would morph shape (helped by the rays nice body lines) haha ... i like it!
  11. Does seem odd that after their initial announcments just a few weeks back that this would come out. Look i hope its true, for a couple of reasons: Firstly, its in my opnion another of those iconic Tamiya body designs; and remember seeing it in the Tamiya catalog back in the day, but never being able to see one in person or at a LHS here in Aus, finally being able to get my hands on one would be nice. Secondly, its the same chassis as the Bear Hawk, another in my opnion, nice looking body, so if that also means a chance at a re-re hawk then im all for it.
  12. Agree the Agrios is rather bad, though its im going to assume, going for that 90s Monster Truck look, so i guess if you fan of monster trucks it might do something for you - much like Super Clod Buster; though that is at least more appealing and more real world monster truck looking You can probaly look at this from, or break into, multiple categories: 1) Those where the design works, but perhaps its just the color scheme that lets it down The Fox, Bearhawk and Topforce come to mind 2) Those where the design is too reliant on decals The Fox again could fall into this, that large silver on the front/bonnet just doesnt need to be there in my opinion. Plasma Edge, Neo Falcon, any of the monster or semi-monster truck styles; Aqroshot 3) Those where the design is just lacking in general, and is overall boring The Vanquish/VQS .. But overall, id have to say the Super Astute.
  13. Personally not a fan of box art, i want something unique and custom. Dont get me wrong, those origiinal design are somewhat iconic (slight bias here due to own history), but despite a Frog being in now way pink and white in real life, the livery Tamiya came up with is distinct and iconic now. But then i look at the Fox, and go Whats that all about then?! why would you design that with blue and silver scheme ? I did mine copper, but if i can ever find a spare shell to grab hold of, i want to go down the champaigne and gold route. But as others have said, its part of the joy of this hobby to take whatever approach you want - but its also why Tamiya is slowly killing that joy with their incesant need to package current re-re (VQS upcoming FireDragon) with pre painted shells Deccals can also drive your decision, as some designs rely heavily on large decals that take up big chunks of the body, or incorporate many design elements into a single decal. Up until recently, finding spare/extra shells for re-re's wasnt a problem so you could (can again hopefully in near future) go down both routes, and on the days you feel like a run with something unique you can. Or if you just want to stick it on the shelf as a testament to your build and the design work of the original developers and designers of the kit from yesteryear, then you can do that too.
  14. Finally arrived today, despite forgetting to include a few things on the order, at least i can get a start on the build(s) until remaining bits and pieces ship. Mixture of things for: (XV-01) - MST Civik EK9 body, 3 Racing LED & TT motor - still waiting on universals (Re-Re Frog/Hotshot) - Tamiya LED Pods Everything else will form the basis of TT-02R Mustang GT4
  15. Where did you find/get the Corvette body ???
  16. Picked up a bunch of paints in preperation for a marthon week/weekend of body prep and painting (5 bodies) ... only to yet again be disappointed in that both black and white are still OOS and not due back in, until mid next month So it may end up being a week/weekend of ALL prep and NO paint, or at least not full body paint, may use this extra time to perfrom some test colors and combinations.
  17. Ive found it to be more consistant on the bodies, though i have often times still missed the clearly listed dimensions; like when i bought the 250mm 240z body for my 257m XV-01 hahah at least the TT-01 (and i believe still the 2) can adjust from 250ish to 257ish
  18. Well that gives me some hope, i think im just going to have to bite the bullet on a set or two and see; and since @jupitertwo has some larger (6mm) offset rims running on the TT-02 without it looking hideous (body obviously makes a difference) hopefully it all works out.
  19. Key word their is "touring" ive found a lot of those rims to be the generic type im trying to avoid; but the alternatives in the drift category are looking like larger diameter, and find non plastic or hard (drift) slicks for them then becomes the problem ... but again with not many sites listing this diameter its just frustrating Maybe i am just too fuzzy, or maybe ill just have to bite the bullet on some options and just see what works ...
  20. Will check them out, do you know what the inner diameter is ? As mentioned in my reply above with the few MST and Yokomo rims I've looked at, the Yokomos clearly state 52mm diameter (which im assuming is normal/standard for 1:10 "Drift" rims) where as the MST have no dimensions that i can find listed anywhere - even on the MST website
  21. Hopefully it helps you with some ideas/suggestions also ... I don't have any larger scale monster trucks, so i cant help you out with the Agrios; but i would've thought they would be more standardised e.g. pick either 1.9" - 2.2" rim size, and track width wouldn't change ?
  22. @jupitertwo wow, i thought the 6mm offset would be much worse than that. Initially ill be running the Tamiya Mustang GT4 body, so im thinking with its design it will probalby be similar to your BMW, so i might be able to get away with larger than 3mm - and yes, have noticed a lot of Tamiya rims are their medium/narrow or 24mm and not 26 - which was again part of the reason for this post. Its just frustrating when searching and it doesnt mention, and you have to constantly search for the 'suggested' rim or tyres listed against them; hoping one will tell you the dimensions. As is, the Tamiya Semi Racing Slicks are 26mm and then 45mm inner which as far as i know pretty much counts out any possible "drift" rims, MST or otherwise, as they are from the few i've managed to obtain dimensions of 50+mm inner diameter, as drift tyres seem to be super low-profile. I dont mind these options from MST or Yokomo, but the Yokomo ones clearly state 52mm diameter - where as the MST ones have no diameter measurements https://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-enkei-rp-03-drift-wheel-tw-2413-00026865 https://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-racing-performer-offset-6mm-high-traction-rim-2-pcs-titanium-for-1-10-rwd-drift-car-rp-6313t6-00078549 https://www.rcmart.com/mst-236-rim-offset-5-4-pcs-flat-sliver-for-1-10-rc-drift-832071fs-00084310 https://www.rcmart.com/mst-5-spokes-offset-5-rim-4-pcs-flat-silver-for-1-10-rc-drift-832004fs-00082844 I have seen those red rims, if they were available in a matte black or gun metal id probably pick some up; the red definately wont go with the particular paint scheme i have in mind haha.
  23. @Fabia130vRS will be a runner, and yes even though rims in this case dont mean much, id still like something less generic "stock kit" style rims. I've started looking at some MST rims, are they predominately large diameter (since they are targetted at drift, which tend to run low profile tyres vs what the Tamiya Semi Slicks look) ? Am open to any Tyres if that fit the rims; as long as rubber and good on concrete/asphalt and racing and not drifting.
  24. Tell me about it. Im even extending my search to cheaper brands and rims, in the advent i could at least possibly spray them. But alas, nothing grabbing my fancy as yet.
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