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Ryz82

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Everything posted by Ryz82

  1. I find holding up to sky is good for determine coverage and depth I usually pick something laying around, preferably white or pale, that I can place behind and see how much each layer is changing the level of opacity. I think based on the samples I did and posted, even if you go heavy with yellow, you'll still send up a little different to the pure PS-6 yellow. I do have my Asteron body that came with the XV-01 kit there, but I've been reluctant to cut it up just for tests ...
  2. The translucent can be tricky like that, and the small tests can give you a false sense of achievement, as it's so easy to get even coverage on them. Full shell is another story, like you said. Definitely doable, but more control needed. Im currently fighting with my Mulberry test trying to match true automotive color. I've gone from translucent pink then translucent purple then cherry red then finally silver. To now just translucent pink and full purple. But the purple ends up too deep when I get even coverage, lighter coverage looks patchy. My next test will be translucent purple backed by cherry red. Lucky you with your Lexan, I'm fast running out of any resemblance of a scrap
  3. The Astute shell looks the better of the 2. That Avante with all its cutouts trying to bring emphasis and attention to the inner workings, ergh. Hopefully as someone suggested in the other Avante thread, they release some up scaled Mini4WD bodies for them, or something, cos dam, as good as the chassis may end up being, not sure i could stomach those myself either, particularly if the trend of pre-painted bodies continues with these kits ... a custom paint job might hide some of the hideousness.
  4. @Willy iine @GeeWings do those tyres give any sort of traction, on any surface ? haha, i need to see footage of one of these running
  5. Haha, sounds like me ... I got a Mustang working on plus my Sierra, both for my TT-02, and both of which have different wheel/tyres, in fact Sierra needed the extended axle #50808 (currently somewhere between HK and here) and I'm also trying to work out mounting. My magnetic mounts are all good for the mustang, nice and hidden, but with the Sierra the rears end up still showing in the rear window so I may end up just going body posts as normal, which I really wanted to avoid. Currently have my eyes on another TT-02 locally, to maybe alleviate some of the issues, but stuff here can be so dam expensive. Then I have my Civic body for the XV-01, ergh ... hahaha
  6. It does, and as I said, as long as you can put down a more consistent coating than my quick and dirty sprays; then you should be fine. I always find translucent frustrating to get lighter coats, every time I've used them its been when I know the initial coverage will be pretty thick as they are serving the full colour with the ones behind simply for tinting (the mulberry I'm trying to match ATM) or for shift/change in the sun using a silver in between. Keep us posted on the end result or any tests you do before hand; interested to see they turn out.
  7. @nel33 I know they are pretty rough tests, and the lighter ones in particular probably could've been a little less patchy and still got a similar tone if you took the time to really layer the paint more finely and lighter (probably away from wind too). But hopefully they've provided enough of a sample that you can potentially grab some of the paint and do your own more controlled tests.
  8. @nel33 here are the tests I managed to get done with the translucent yellow (PS-42). If you're looking for a dandelion yellow, then I do think it, backed by white, will give you the look, but you're going to have to be really careful with how much translucent yellow you lay down first. Too much and you end up almost pure yellow (PS-6) territory, too little and you run the risk with all translucent, which is being patchy or just too weak once backed by white as you can see in some of the samples. Each of these could probably be backed with a bit more white, being quick tests, but my white was lower than I thought and the can ended up running out. Varying layers of translucent yellow backed by white. Disclosure, being off cuts and quick, small tests, the sprays were pretty quick and dirty to get the coverage I was looking for in the widest/largest area of the lexan, with a few minutes in the sun between coats - plus I'm sure I lost some paint the wind. First two photos are under artificial light in the shed. (TL) Super light coat and as a result patchy - not good. (TR) Slightly more even and little thicker coat as a result, not by much, still a little patchy (BR) Medium and for the most part even coat. What is medium ? hard to say in terms of number of coats, I really just tried to keep things light until I had for the best part an even coating when holding up to the sky, and was happy that it wasn't too light or too heavy (yellow) (BL) Even and relatively high coat, any more and you probably not gaining anything depth wise, just thicker paint, at which point I thought it would end up just being the same as pure yellow (PS-6) Next couple of photos I noticed I have them in different position, which should be easy to tell, but if not just rotate the the image clockwise 90' First photo again under artificial lighting, but with a more opaque white background (paper towel) to help show more difference and potential of stronger white backing (though white backing isn't always a opaque as you'd think anyways) Second photo out in the sun, with my Civic shell done in yellow (PS-6) backed by white as comparison. I think a medium to light coverage, if you can get it even across an entire body, backed by white, should be a good match for the muted dandelion yellow. But if you can manage that, well, that's another question entirely. Its going to come down to patience, conditions, the shape of the body - too many angles or curves and getting even coats can be much harder as you always end up with sections with more coverage and thus darker. In terms of the other possibility you mentioned, the tone shift with some orange. Sadly I don't have any orange paint on me. I did do one quick test on an off cut which was translucent yellow (heavy coverage) > translucent silver (light coverage) > camel yellow - but the camel yellow just is/wasn't a big enough difference to provide any shift/change in the sun like you can get when layering translucent silver between colors like that. Its possible to do, but a proper orange would be needed, I think from memory @Nwc100 did a similar test a while back for one of this bodies
  9. I would also recommend Futaba, the quality-to-price is good and usually pretty reliable depending on the market/area you are. The only minor gripe, is their foam grips, they can dry out depending on the conditions you keep/use them, after which when you go to turn the wheel, you don't so much turn the wheel as you do spin the dry foam grip around the wheel, and your car just keeps going straight. Honestly though its nothing a bit of glue or tape cant fix (or cheap replacement grips), and as said, really only happens if you leave them out in area that allows for them to dry out or get heat damage. I have several of their 3PRKA models which I bought over the years, and recently picked up a 4PV so I could save on batteries and pair all those existing receivers to a single radio. Pairing can be good in this aspect, but it can also be a downside if you and your son want to run two of the paired cars at once, you'll be out of luck, as you can only pair an individual receiver (car) with a single radio. So keep that in mind if you do go down that path, and if you think it might be something you want to do later, just check up on the support to make sure the radios you buy now have receivers that can be paired with another multi-memory radio later. Oh, and probably goes without saying, that the fewer channels the cheaper more affordable. Almost everything these days is 3 or 4 channel, I'm not sure of any 2 channel (well, aside from really budget radios or older FM instead of digital) that are out there anymore. 3 channels should be completely adequate for your needs. ... ESC/BATTERY wise I run a combination of Tamiya TBLK-104/5s depending on the time of purchase, as well as some Hobby Wing 1060, with all my cars (older re-res Frog, Hot Shot, Fox and several TT-01/2, XV-01 and F104w) running on 3000-5000mAh NiMH powering either Sports, Torque or Formula tuned motors. For my basic running/bashing, this combination has served me well with no issues. One thing to think about is also the connector type - thought I'd raise it since its been a recent topic of discussion on here. … SERVO I am only running Futaba S3003 (or a couple of their new replacement, cant remember the model S30U or something), cheap and not the heaviest duty, but I've not had any burn out or cause any issues even on something with relatively heavy steering like the re-re Hot Shot. I second this. The only obvious hop-up so to speak, is the one you already mentioned - bearings - get rid of any plastic bushings as soon as you can. Otherwise, depending on the kit you go with, decent oiled shocks (mostly an on-road issue, friction shocks are nasty). People will say this kit has X part which is a weak point yada yada, but TBH with these things anything can break at any time, its all plastic, and depending how you drive, where you drive, what you drive into everyone's experience and mileage of these so called weak points varies, or is never an issue. So don't get caught up thinking you need to replace everything with the alloy hop-up or carbon hop-up, particularly if you're just carpark/tennis court bashing. Happy RC'ing
  10. The dandelion yellow is definitely more a muted yellow, so you're right, going translucent might be the way to go, as opposed to pure yellow (PS-6) which even with a lighter coat would probably still be too bright/yellow. Camel is, sadly, one of the more frustrating PS paints Tamiya offers. It can look really orange, or even brownish depending how you back it and what you put it next to. I'm struggling with it ATM to match the B&H Sierra above. I've got the half or more can of translucent yellow (PS-42) still as mentioned, plush fresh cans of camel yellow (PS-19) and yellow (PS-6) for my Sierra, so will try and do a couple of different tests for you. Not sure how much scrap/offcut lexan I have laying around, so they might be small pieces, but will do my best, probably be tomorrow (my time) now as other things on today.
  11. Indeed it is, haha. Though just realised i said R31 in previous post, which yes did race, but it was the 32 that was Godzilla and what dominated.
  12. @nel33 I have some paint left in my translucent yellow can, and some white. I can do a small test tomorrow if you like, and post ?
  13. You could try the translucent yellow backed by camel, or even a light coating of normal yellow backed by camel. I dont have them on me ATM but i do have a couple of tests i do for the Sierra, that i can try and take a photo of tomorrow and upload. As with all modern real world paint schemes that have that shift of color/shade as seen here. You may need to possibly add a light layer of translucent silver again between the two yellows to get it shift in the light.
  14. Have you got an example the yellow you're trying to match ?
  15. @Nwc100 thanks, just in time for summer here too Bathurst is Australia's (and I'll dare say the worlds) greatest touring car race, held on a brilliant public mountain road circuit - if you're into motorsport check it out. Back in the late 80s and early 90s it was dominated by the Sierra and R31 'Godzilla' Skyline. It eventually transitioned regulations to what we have now, which is the V8 Supercars format. Yes I will be doing the full B&H livery. Have already done some tests with Camel Yellow vs Yellow and combination of the both to try and get a close match. And recently picked up some decals upscaled from someone who does them for slot cars (sadly some weren't as clean/crisp as I'd like, so working out if I replace/recreate them, or just go with them for now)
  16. Cheers, has been a rough year health wise (cancer) so was in/out of hospital and out of action for a good 6 months. Remission now and starting to get back into the backlog of bodies and repairs and upgrades etc. Yep, will be RS500, trying to replicate this particular Group A from back here in AU (if your familiar with Bathurst, then you may know it)
  17. My gripe with Tamiya plugs is they can be so dam hard to disconnect sometimes, I've had quite a few occasions where I feel like I'm going to send the car flying with the amount of force I've had to use. I picked up some new batteries while away camping a while back, didn't realise my existing batteries were dead until arrived at camp ground - thankfully the LHS at nearby town had some NiMH. Only down side, they were ALL XT60 connectors. Thankfully they came with adapters, but now the connectors are massive and either make it real tight fit (XV-01) or hang out in precarious ways even more (Hot Shot, Frog etc) I do like the XT60 connector however, strong and easy to get on/off, and have strongly considering switching over. Though my soldering skills aren't the greatest - not since high school have I done any - so the thought of botching up and making ALL my ESC (BLK-105s and a couple of HW 1060) *******, has me holding off.
  18. My Re-Re Frog which you saw a while back is my only Translucent yellow based body, backed with the greens/silvers. I'm currently working on a body that will, hopefully, be a Mulberry color using a combination of translucent pink, translucent purple and cherry red with silver backing - my tests so far have been close, but not quite there, however I now have some factory color coded touch up automotive paint from the actual car to match against, so have to do a few more tests before I commit to RC shell. Hoping to get a start on it this weekend, but may still be a week or so away, as also have my Sierra body which will be straight camel yellow to do. Will post the tests once though, for peoples reference, those I should knock off this weekend. The thing with translucent paints, is making sure you have a very, very even coverage. IF you don't then you will notice the patches particularly if you back with a dark color, i botched my first Hot Shot body as a result of this, as I backed the translucent red with gun metal, and its was patchy AF! For this reason, particularly if layering multiple translucents on top of each other, it can be very difficult to see if you coverage is even, or if the second colour (when light, like I'm doing with above Mulberry) has even been put down.
  19. Ah, ok, sorry now I got you. I've never clear coated my parts afterwards, so unfortunately I'll have to leave this to someone who has more experience with ABS/hard bodies. For the small number of plastic parts I've painted, I've never bothered. I would suggest going a non PS clear coat, particularly if you want to get shine, since PS is designed to be painted on the inside of the shell, the shell of course then providing the shine/gloss. But again, I'll let some others with experience and maybe examples chime in.
  20. What do you mean by reversed ? The plastic parts, I'm assuming you mean the ABS wings/spoilers and mirrors that may or may not come with the body ? For those I typically go with the Tamiya TS paints, but have also used pot acrylics/enamels, or any aerosol paint from the hardware store depending on what color I'm after and size of the component.
  21. Oh, even the F104W is hand full, I get that, but occasionally you just want to have some craziness and fun in the carpark and throw caution to the wind.
  22. That's what I thought, but figured I'd ask anyways. With the rally block tyres, there is more than enough clearance for the bashing I do, so the only thing the additional travel might help with would be some larger landings, but again that isn't a concern. The slipper clutch would probably be of more benefit in that instance anyways. ******! I do like the kit, that front motor and weight distribution with the 4WD gives best of both worlds - at least from my running. Wouldn't mind another, but right now I kind of want some 2WD action for my on-road bashing, was thinking of non Tamiya (as in another post) but now just tossing up between FF-03 or getting another TT-02 (stock for now) and converting to RWD (will have to read up on that, to see what parts can be easily switched out or how much I may need to get creative, will scour this forums soon to make that call). Really wish Tamiya would make a straight up 2WD/RWD on-road kit that isn't M-Chassis
  23. @mtbkym01 nice build thread. Out of curiosity, does the LDS offer anymore clearance, or is it solely additional travel on the suspension ? I built an T variant a while back (the Asteron was dirt cheap years ago when i got it) and did rudimentary conversion to rally, so nothing more than the bumpers and wheels. Have been toying with adding some upgrades like the universals to replace dog bones, just curious if going the long damper worth it ?
  24. In the past I've tended to just go with a basic wash to get the shadow/recesses using either black or brown heavily diluted with water and then wipe off with a cloth/cue-tip. Tried dry brushing for highlights once, it didn't work out, but it could've been that I had also inadvertently picked up enamels not acrylics for some of my colors, and by time i realised, i couldn't be bothered going back to LHS to switch. Fingers crossed, this time, now its a a full cockpit and not just a head or torso I'll get better results, as I do want this final body and livery to look good even though it will be a runner/basher.
  25. I have reverted to just inside the shed, spraying out through the door in the past - as surprisingly of all the places, the wind funnels less into the open door than anywhere else .. but yes, i will just be picking my times more vigilantly these days. I've seen various setups with kitchen hoods, that would require a large declutter/cleanout of the shed ATM however ... perhaps a job for the new year.
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