Ryz82

Initial cut of Mustang body. For the most part came out clean and straight, only needing a little sanding around front spoiler. Wheel arches, using trusty compass cutter, came out smooth, but did under-estimate the diameter slightly, nothing significant that it cut into the body, was actually a little narrower actually, so top of one of the arches has maybe 1mm that could be trimmed, but for now have left as going back in with scissors may highlight the issue worse as the curve will no longer be perfect, even if more true to mould line. After this, started trying to work out which body mounts I was going to use, and how to best get them true to body. As per previous topic/post (How to measure body mounts (magnetic) - Build Tips and Techniques - Tamiyaclub.com) this will be my first foray into magnetic/stealth mounts, so it's a learning experience, and since for the near future I will be running multiple bodies on the same chassis, I want to try and have as little swap out as possible in terms of positioning and adjustment. Initially I was going to use those mounts shown in my previous post, across ALL 4 posts. However, upon lining up with the body (at least the Mustang for now) that puts the posts and magnets clear in line of the rear window, eek, so even if tinted, you're gonna see them. At which rate I may as well drill the holes and leaves posts as normal sticking out. So while scratching my head, I found the other set of mounts I purchased at the start of the year - Xtra Speed (https://www.rcmart.com/xtra-speed-1-10-rc-aluminum-stealth-body-mount-black-xs-59496bk-00066497). Which turned out to be a good idea, as those have adjustable (both horizontal and vertical) for at least one of their mounts (typically rear). So at the moment I have the initial single magnet top-of-post mounts on the front, and have used the Xtra Speed bar mount at the rear. Note the photo of the rear mounts shows single magnets on top. These are the ones that come with the other single style mounts, the actual Xtra Speed kit comes with a bar with two magnets, but I think that will be too rigid for the bodies, so will likely just use these instead - unless I go velcro. The Xtra Speed mounts also have options for mounting on the front, using a cap that sits on top of the post, and then the bar screws in between those posts. So no additional adjustments and offsets like the rears in the photo above. Unfortunately the kit comes with 2 different size bars. The longer of which, remains un-used at this stage, as its too wide for the TT-01/2 mounts. Although I am capable of screwing and mounting them, the extra width pushes/bows the posts out quite a bit. On initial dry fits with full height posts this was quiet noticeable and in my opinion probably way to flexible and prone to doing damage to the body, if a hard enough shunt or crash. Having said that, however, now that I've had to trim the front posts right down, that flex may well and truly be less of an issue, but also, the shortened posts may mean there is not enough flex at all to even get the bar across? Something I may try later today once I've trimmed the remaining front post down. Its a shame the Xtra Speed kit doesn't come with both bars equal size, even if there was one kit for long and one for short, as the shortened bar does fit perfectly between the caps that sit on top of the posts. The initial dry fit for this looks to be good, as the rear bar sits just outside the Mustangs window and on the boot/spoiler section. My only concern is, in order to get the Mustang to sit at decent height - about 2 to 4mm of space between top of tyre and wheel arch - the front mount has to be right on the VERY bottom pin hole for the mounting post. Which on the TT-01/2 XV-01 type posts, is right on the elbow joint, meaning I had to trim the strengthening, angled, plastic section in order to get the mount to slide far enough down. Even now, with the trimming and sanding, it didn't completely sit down far enough, but I still managed to get the body pin through with some force, to lock it in place. So obviously the post has been weakened to accommodate the mount, but by how much, and if this will truly cause an issue since the shaft is now much shorter and going to cause less flex/strain on the elbow, is unknown. I think they should all be fine, the only question that will remain is if I stick with magnets, or instead opt for velcro ? As I have some concerns with the glue and magnets showing through the paint job based on tests I've already done - again another topic regarding Shoe Goo and alternatives.

Sounds like a lot of pain, but get some shots up here when you're done, I've not seen that particular Civic body by Pandora, my LHS stocks a fair bit of their bodies, I picked up one, think it was the EF (Gen 4) Civic they had, last year. Sadly I botched the body post holes waaaaaaay to much to recover, the whole body sat at an angle left to right eeeek. Though TBH probably for the best, as with its OTT styling it did look a bit silly in my opinion, it was definitely a full drift body. The MST body is third in line for me behind Mustang and Sierra bodies, mostly as I have a very particular paint/livery job I want to do for it which is going to require a) patience and b) decals that I need to get made. I've done an EG body also, its one I picked up to replace that Pandora one. It was buy a cheap brand "Body Worx" here in AU, but recently in another post looks like a common cheap brand that is re-sold to anyone that was to be a re-seller, its not the most detailed, but one of their better ones. The Tamiya EG6 Castrol Rally body is still pretty easy to find outside of your kit, so might be worth a shot. Or MST also does an EG. Do you have a link to the Prelude body ? as said the only one I've EVER seen is the HPI one, which is "ok" but has has already been moulded with a body kti/race look - not to mention, as said, no longer being made.

You see these bodies all over the place. They must be a wholesaler as such, and just offer their shells out to anyone that wants to be a re-seller. Here in Australia im pretty sure they are sold under the Body Worx brand. I've used a couple. Look, they arent great, often lacking finer detail and moulding. But for a basher, or shell you arent going to care to much about, then they are fine. I have post of a Civic body from Body Worx here (https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/96717-a-photo-of-your-most-recent-tamiya-rcbuild/&do=findComment&comment=835553) I also have their Ford Sierra as was the only one i could find which i am yet to work on - will be trying to reproduce a local AU Touring Car livery form late 80s with it, so hopefully it looks ok - TBH the Sierra doesnt look too bad from unpainted, so hopefully finished is the goods. ... Personally, outside of Tamiya, i find Killer Body to be decent, and the MST Honda Civic EK9 to be good. ABC can be hit an miss, again the finer details of the cars body lines can be lacking.

Quick update. So it looks from the tests, that there seems to be no discernable difference between the Shoe Goo and the Gorilla Grip clear. Both have visible markings, particularly when held up to the light, which suggests that: a) I should be fine using either b) I may have to use some of that re-enforcement tape first, particularly on the lighter (yellow shell). Strangely even the one backed with silver, which is usually good with blocking is showing. The only test that doesn't show any marking visibly, even to light, is the one - as you'd expect - backed with black .. thinking I may have to just back with super heavy layer of silver on my final shells - or revert to double sided tape if I still go ahead with magnetic/hidden mounts. Will try and take some photos later this evening, to show the marking I'm talking about, so others can chime in.

Looking good. What's the Pandora body like ? I know a lot of them are designed for Drift look, so are usually 200mm wide and can look pretty funky without the right offset rims. I recently (well start of year, but haven't got around to working on it yet) EK9 body from MST (https://www.rcmart.com/mst-ek9-clear-body-set-for-1-10-rc-onroad-720010-00087476) which is pretty nicely detailed and moulded - something I find the ABC bodies lack unfortunately, though the Integra has less shape and body lines to be concerned about maintaining I wish someone would release a Gen 5 Prelude body ... sadly the only one was by HPI and is now discontinued. Love the McLaren! Reminds me I should finish of my MP6 body for the my F104W ... ergh too many kits to work on, that's a good thing right?

I may end up doing that anyways for added strength, and one body in particular is going to be light (yellow, backed with white) so may still show through. Now I have actual Shoe Goo, I will do a side by side with the Gorilla Grip and see if it is indeed the glue that was causing the marking, or the lack of paint layers.

Just picked some up at Athletes Foot, not sure why it didn't occur to me to look there, being a shoe store and all, ha! I hadn't seen any at Big W, then again I only looked in store not online for them.

Thanks for the tip, I will have a look and see what I can find. I am sure there are options locally that are cheaper, I just know Shoe Goo is the one/brand everyone always mentions, but is not (from what I've found) stocked here in AU. I do think the Gorilla Grip would be ok with a full backing of paint. I may to another test on an off-cut with full layering that I'll eventually use for the body, and do another test and see if I still get that stain/marking showing up.

Was at Bunnings for some washers - why pay upmarket prices for wheel spacers, when can get in bulk at Bunnings and decided to pickup the Selleys shoe repair above. DO NOT RECOMMEND, instantly started eating away at the paint. My Gorilla Grip tests haven't changed, the stain is still there, so I'm think it might just be that as mentioned, my off-cut tests weren't full coats of paint, so quite thin. Was hoping for something that could pickup easily at LHS or Bunnings etc as opposed to having to order online.

Didn't even know this was a thing, never even thought to look at Tamiya actual products.

Completely forgot about them. I do have a F104W, obviously similar, so the handling and general setup suspension etc I'm familiar with. Not sure they're entirely what I'm after, TBH I would probably just settle for another TT-01/2 instead, simply for the ability to more easily upgrade if I want down the track.

I've heard they're a little like the XV-01; which all though is 4WD, its front engine placement and weight makes it quite fun to flick around - love my XV-01 for that reason (the T variant converted to rally spec, as it was the only kit I could find at the time) and if they weren't so hard to find at decent price after conversion to AUD, I'd probably just settle for another of those. As you said, the FF-03 kit I've seen for a little more than I paid for the TT-02R, so its not too far of a stretch budget wise. And the FWD nature suits the Civic body I have.

I did notice in the images the suspension setup is pretty limited and basic, but as said as a basher not a real issue, though would be nice. MST caught my attention as the multitude of engine placements, so can go with either FWD or RWD, and from what I've seen are reasonably affordable. Wil have a bit more of a read up on them.

Long story short, too many bodies, not enough chassis, but would like to keep things a little more 'real' in terms of drive-train - not every car is 4WD, and lets be honest 2WD can be a lot more fun. How does the FF-03 stack up ? I know the M-Chassis exist, but need 257mm wheel-base (again too many bodies, not enough chassis). Does anyone run any of the MST chassis ? I believe they offer a range of engine placement; front, mid (well mid'ish) and rear ? And are 2WD Any other options ? These will all be runners/bashers so typical carparks, streets, school courts etc. Thus no pro/racing level recommendations if you can avoid, haha.

Hey All, I know Shoe Goo is generally the go to when it comes to fixing to lexan bodies; magnets for mounts, or other general bits and bobs. However I haven't been able to source any here in Australia, does any one (preferably you other Aussie members out there) have any recommendations for alternatives - or know where in AU we can get Shoe Goo. I have Gorilla Grip Clear, which appears to be ok strength wise on some tests I've done (just glued some random nuts and other similar size/weight pieces), but does look like its left a noticeable mark/stain on the paint job; TBH I did this on an off-cut I used for paint test, so it wasn't a heavy coat or backed like a final shell would be, but please let me know if anyone has experienced such marks. Other alternatives I've found at Bunnings (hardware store, ala Home Depot etc.) is Selleys Shoe Fix which I've not yet tried. For reference I will be fix either magnets or velcro for body mounts.

I've mentioned in the past, The Frog is the big reason I'm into the hobby. I remember way back in the those glorious 80s, as little tacker, going to the store with my dad as he picked up this new "toy", and sat patiently at the dinning table as he built it. I put that car through badword and back growing up (though she never skipped a beat or broke), often running solo until the mid 90s when my cousin got a Bear Hawk, and gave me something to run against. Initially my foray back into the hobby was when the Tam-Tech Frog was released, I'll admit it was more the novelty factor back then, and nothing too serious, as I still had the OG Frog, and money wasn't something I had just laying around. Fast forward to the early 2010s and my dad passed away, and in need of something to help with the loss, I made the decision to pickup the Re-Re Frog and try to re-kindle some of those memories and good old times/days. Subsequent Re-Re Hotshot and Fox were purchased as both were also close to me growing up; Hotshot was "the" 4WD buggy to have, and the Fox was owned by my grand parents neighbour, so I got to see it quite often also. More recently, as I move into my 40s, the shift has been made to more on-road kits, mostly because the modern buggies do nothing for me, and I missed the opportunity, either stock or more so cost to pickup some of the other Re-Re like the Boomerang, Super Hotshot and Egress. I still have the OG Frog as seen in a post in the Vintage Forum

Cheers. Will be sure to get a post up once done, probably a few weeks off, as wait for decals to arrive, and do some paint tests.

Thanks for the feedback guys, will have a watch of the video, and once I've trimmed the bodies, start a closer look at the positioning and adjusting. I do have another set of magnetic mounts I purchased at the start of the year - cant seem to find the link to them, I believe they were a Yeah Racing set - which has the bar/brace that goes between the uprights, and the magnets sit on that (if that makes sense). In any event, these new mounts will be first order of business and possibly fall back to that other set, or worse base I just go back to posts with pins/caps which as as low-line as possible.

Will have a watch, hopefully, if as you said using the same mounts should be a good reference.

All makes sense, as I expecting the trim, test, trim, test method. Will be picking up a spare set of mounts (whatever spruce from the kit that is) just in case

The front clearance was one potential area of concern. I have two bodies which I will alternate, depending on mood and who I'm out with, when running - at least until I pickup another TT-01/2 kit. First body is the Tamiya Mustang GT3 (also available in kit form) and the other is a Ford Sierra. Both I think should be good at the front, as they have high bonnets/hoods, but definitely something I will have to keep tabs on. Using traditional post only with clips/caps I'm not opposed to with the Mustang, as will be more of a basher/runner, but the Sierra body I would like to try and keep clean as possible (hence magnetic mounts) as will be looking to replicate Group A touring car from here in Aus.

Hey All, Looking for some support, advice, tips on how to successfully measure and trim body mount posts when using magnetic mounts. In terms of aligning the magnets to glue inside the shell, I'm pretty confident in once the body is completed, using either tape and other magnets to position before gluing. What I'm looking for is how best to trim the height of the body mounts initially, so that once I attach the magnetic mount, the body sits flush/straight. Chassis: TT-02R Magnetic Mounts: Sit over the normal body mount poles, and use body pin to secure. Obviously the mount will need to trimmed/shortened. What's the best approach here ? Obviously sitting the body on top like you would for marking holes wont work. Is it simply a matter sitting the body next to car, and taking a best guess/judgement via eye ? Or should I just trim, test mount, trim, test mount .. until I get right height.

As said, i found it saved me a lot of pain and grievances - even with scissors, i always found arches frustrating; end up with 1 good and 3 *******, or 3 good and 1 *******. The only recommendation with the compass cutters, are a) practice if you can first and b) as with score and snap technique, do multiple runs/scores - after which you can just peel around (or snap). Oh, and with practice i mean in terms of learning what pressure is needed. The last thing you want is for you to get half way around a score, or after multiple scores, and have the needle slip from the centre point of the arch, and you all of a sudden score all of the shop

I use a combination of score-snap/peel and scissors - it really depends on the body im working with - and then for wheel arches that are circular or as close to circular as possible, i use a compass cutter. Typically this results in (if using a touring car body): ALL skirts done with score-snap/peel ALL wheel arches started with compass-cutter; finished with scissors ANY ares were theres a lot of mold variance; e.g. bumper curves under and up or just areas where the lexan as become more solid as a result of a bend or shape, i'll typically use scissors. FINALLY clean up any intricate areas with a blade/hobby-knife and then a light sand along edges I cant say i usually use any serous rough scouring when washing, just a softer scotch-bright type cleaning sponge, and a good amount of detergent. Mostly use the sponge side, but do use the rougher side for a light rub, but nothing serious. Then as others have said, a light coat to start, and build up as required or color/scheme dictates.

I thought they shared a bit more than that. Not that it really matters, as chances are neither will be getting a re-re and this is all hyperbole fuled by internet rumours. Personally the fragility factor doesnt phase me too much. I think, that still comes down to how you plan to use/run them; knowing limits etc. I understand each kit has their own weak points, or parts, and people like to focus on them - recent VQS re-re apparently not updating a known weak component - but i wonder how many people who picked up the re-re (or didnt as a result of the lack of change to that part) are/were going to turn them into shelf queens vs occasional runner (with stock or slighly modded electronics) vs hardcore runner (upgraded eletronics) ?