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Ryz82

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Posts posted by Ryz82

  1. Posted

    3 minutes ago, Blista said:

    Yeah, it's a shame that nobody else does bodies quite as well as Tamiya.  There's some really good ones for crawlers but it's not quite the same as a Tamiya.

    So very true.

    Bodyworx / WC have a few that hold up well, but most are devoid of any definition and rely on their cartoon decals to provide some semblance of the actual car.

    I think Colt ? also offers an 80 series, I think i saw it on RCMart at one point. But i have no reference for the quality of Colt bodies.

     

  3. Posted

    6 hours ago, droidy said:

    The cheapest Aus kits often have no ESC these days so make sure you understand each listing in detail because it varies a lot by shop and kit. I wouldn't be surprised if both of those kits had no ESC with those prices, whereas a year ago you would have got a tble-02s or tble-04s (pot luck which one) included for about that price.

    Yeh they are non esc. But easy enough to get locally, think i may even still have a couple of tamiya laying around still. 

  6. Posted

    10 hours ago, Nwc100 said:

    Great to see you back on here! I look forward to some more custom paint discussions very soon!

    I’m pretty sure there was a Cosworth of some description waiting in the wings?

    These first builds will traditional, as trying to match some ATCC liveries. But have some ideas to try for other combinations on whatever other shells end up coming with these kits.

    Yep, Sierra RS500 in the wings, along with BMW E30 and a EK9 Civic

  7. Posted

    Thanks all for the support and wishes.

    I think I will just end up piecing these ones together; can find some standard kits for the $168-200 AUD locally (Toyota Supra Racing A80) - stock withstanding - a set of Yeah Racing bearings looks about $25ish AUD on top of that. The cheapest D spec kit I can find is $250ish, which just for the added bearings, and oil shocks, might be a bit much, but having said that, looking locally (AU) I'm struggling to find a set of oil dampers. The Super Mini CVA are available - but having never used them, not sure if they are shorter than the ideal 50/55mm for the TT-01/2 ? Alternatively I can see some Yeah Racing Big Bores available at $70ish AUD which on top of the kit starts pushing me into the D spec territory.

    Unfortunately, and I'm not sure if it's just me, but it appears RCMart has changed their website, so the shopping cart no longer gives you a total of all items. Which makes it really hard to then convert to AUD to determine if they are infact still cheaper than locally sourced :(

     

    • Like 1

  8. Posted

    14 hours ago, GTodd said:

    Never stop fighting!  Check out the TD2 and TD4 line. New cars, go great, and 100 percent Tamiya.

    The Astute has grown on me since its release, but @ $369 AUD it's a bit of steep ask - it's the price of 2 TT-02s over here
    I already have the shells ready for the TT-02 so hence the initial question. 

    If I was going to go buggy again, the DT-03 (Frog) would be where I'd go to complete my collection, OG, Re-Re and Tam Tech.

  9. Posted

    44 minutes ago, Beetlemankurt said:

    Do whatever makes you smile mate and welcome back :)

    Thanks

    Budget, trying to keep it reasonable, stock is pretty limited here in Aus, the odd Tamiya kit here and there, but nothing consistent stock wise, which means dealing - most likely with RCMart. 

    Definitely not looking for rocket out the box, as will be sticking with ST-540 or perhaps TZ or UGT, so the key is really bearings and perhaps some upgraded shocks initially, as still run on some pretty uneven bitumen around here at times.

    Ideally would be looking to get everything in one order too, so that was the thought on a D spec - don't care about the drift tires - but coming ball raced already, ideally would help even out the other costs.

    • Like 2

  10. Posted

    After 18+ months of battling cancer, I am finally in a place to start enjoying life again, and what better way than to kick off the coming new year with our favourite hobby.

    Looking forward to finally getting stuck into the various ATCC inspired builds I had planned out prior to my diagnosis, and a Frog inspired build also. 

    With that in mind, I've noticed in the time that has passed, there are a few new releases or upgrades that have come through the pipeline, so was just wondering ...

    Is picking up a TT-02 D kit still the best (most cost effective) point of entry for a reliable basher; being they are (AFAIK still) fully ball raced out the box? 

    Are the new? RR or SR variants (replacing the R and S respectively) worth a look at? My original TT-02 was an R kit.

    Or is simply going the bog standard 02 and then getting bearings and any other hop-ups separately as required? As it appears, unsurprisingly, prices seem to have also fluctuated quite a bit while I've been out of the game.

     

     

    • Like 16

  11. Posted

    Re-masked the Sierra.

    Ended up thinning the line work down a little. Still not perfect, that front right quarter panel and bumper just isn't going to cooperate. But with the thinner line (at least based on the impression the tape gives) it looks less funky. I just hope I haven't done too much damage to it with all the adhering and removing of tape. Have done my best to keep it clean and dry between attempts.

    Hopefully can get some paint down tomorrow or day after before I have to take my extended break. IF nothing else, painted it will then give me some food for thought while I'm undergoing treatment/recovering as to whether or not painting was the right approach, or if I should consider using decals for them. Not to mention the elephant in the room which is Tamiya PS-19 Camel Yellow hahaha Not only did I have to pick a livery with these straight lines, but also one which is neither truly yellow or truly camel yellow.

    • Like 1

  12. Posted

    11 hours ago, svenb said:

    Yes I see now ,the bumper on mine does "flick" up at the front .

    That would give you problems with the lines,not so much of a problem on the Texaco livery.

    Good luck with the chemo 🤞👍

    DOH. Was hoping you were going to say that yours has no such issue and that the L&L on order might be a better candidate than my local one, which may just have been a bad batch or pull from the mold.

    Think I'm either going to have to live with the right side being out of whack, or possibly try and narrow/thin the line down so it still stay straight and at least keeps the livery consistent, if not exact. Or worst case just not have the red line extend fully into the front quarter panel (last resort).

    Thanks everyone for the support re chemo. Second go around this year already, hoping this time we manage to get it all and remission lasts. Just need to keep the online retail therapy in check during the process haha, still too many unfinished projects delayed from last round.

    • Like 4

  13. Posted

    On 11/19/2021 at 6:54 PM, svenb said:

    You say you've got a L&L Sierra?

    I've got one which isn't perfect but none of the problems that you have🤔

    16373102446772544989149159177075.jpg

    I believe its the same one as L&L sells. 

    Over here in AU it was/is sold by Body Worx, but comes with TC decals (I designed and got my own decals printed as no-one does the B&H livery I'm after) and they all appear to be the same as what L&L sells.

    I currently have a L&L version on order as was the only way I could get the 3D wing, as here the body came with a flimsy Lexan wing (and that's being generous if I call it a wing).

    For the most part the body/shell does appear straight, its just looks like the front right quarter panel when you have the Texaco and Motorcraft logo is angled upwards too much, or the bumper is actually higher than it should be? It's also possible is just a result of the body being cut out now and the thinner Lexan ? Or a bad molding ? or maybe I'm just being way too picky, haha

    But the red line on the B&H livery which runs straight along, across front wheel arch up to the headlights, ends up running almost flush with the bumper when I mask it off. As opposed to still having some yellow between it and the actual bumper as seen in previous photo) if that makes sense ? IF I get time, I'll try and post an image with the most recent masking attempts - the left side is not as bad.

    Sadly, I will be starting chemo again next week, so everything will be getting put on hold for an unknown period of time again anyways, so it will all have to wait before I can get around to painting regardless :(

    ** PHOTOS ADDED **

    This was from second attempt at masking, have since removed these and will be going at it again, I admit this one again wasn't great. I tried using a separate piece of tape for the front quarter panel instead of running one long piece across the entire side (which is what I did the first attempt) but to me the right side here is just not, well for lack of a better word, right.

    Again the left isn't perfectly parallel/straight, but its still much closer to real livery - and no it isn't just my hand holding the front, pulling the shell straight in the left side picture.

     

    line-right.jpg

    line-left.jpg

  14. Posted

    Ripped up my masking, and started again.

    Straight lines are great and all, but when the body/shell isn't, they aren't.

    I had to pick a dam livery to replicate that is all about straight lines that run full length of the body ....argh!

    Sadly I think it just gonna have to do now, as even if I was to switch out to using decals, the front quarter panels are just out of whack. If I follow the correct positioning for the livery, which follows the bumpers, which should thus follow the mold lines of the shell, it would sill produce weird angles and be non parallel looking.

    Hoping once all done, painted and decals on, its less noticeable and just becomes a 'quirk'.

    For reference this is the livery I'm "attempting" to replicate.

    longhurst.jpg.9a398b76e5903150784633b7caf315ea.jpg

    • Like 5

  15. Posted

    Started masking off Sierra body for painting.

    Having decided to not use decals for the body stripes - hey straight lines how hard can it be - am now somewhat regretting my decision ... one side done, but sooooo much wasted tape. For sanity sake, have stopped and will try and replicate/mirror other side tomorrow.

    • Like 2

  18. Posted

    So just noticed some LHS listings here in AU for the new Astute and Avante kits, aside from the ridiculous price tags here in AUD $440-$540 eek!

    I noticed 2 listings for the Super Avante, pre-painted and un-painted ? Is anyone else seeing these ? Does this mean Tamiya might finally be listening to the "hate" of all the recent pre-painted bodies with their recent kits ?

     

  19. Posted

    6 minutes ago, Busdriver said:
    These are two-piece 5-spoke wheels that incorporate a chrome outer wheel and a black coloured spoke. Compatible with TT-01, TT-02 (excludes TT-02 Type-S) and CC-01 chassis models. Compatible with cars using 26mm width tires.
    Brand: Tamiya
    Type: Wheel/Tyre
    Compatibility: Car/Lorry 
    ?????

    Beats me. Hopefully someone else here can shed some light onto that logic to say if its true or not. 

    Tamiya USA does list the same exclusion as Tony (just checked his ebay listing), yet the #54794 wheels I have which are the same except for a mesh front vs spokes, has no mention of any exclusions/limitations on either of their listings.

  20. Posted

    4 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

    They would be perfect but if you look on Tony’s Tamiya parts and others it says they are not suitable for TT02-S which is what I’ve got. I don’t understand why?

    I'm not sure what the reasoning behind that would be, I've never looked at or seen Tony's parts or anywhere that specifically says a particular variant wont use them.

    @TurnipJF mentions the differences between the S and R (which I have) kits in another thread (https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/100061-help-on-choosing-a-first-on-road-model/&do=findComment&comment=886839). However I don't think any of these would affect the use of rims specifically for the S variant.

     

  21. Posted

    24 minutes ago, InsaneJim69 said:

    But try to get the TT02 Type S as it is far more capable out of the box than a stock TT02,

    What's the difference between the S and R kits ?

    The R comes with bearings and oil shocks instead of friction also, plus the alloy shaft and steering ? Is it more adjustment options for chamber or toe-in-out ?

  23. Posted

    Using the #50808 long axles work fine on the TT-02R. I recently picked them up for my Sierra build using the two 10mm faux brake disc hubs that come with the kit.

    They give you the extra thread needed for the lock nut no problem at all. I even added an additional 3 washer for additional spacing and I still had enough thread to get the lock nut on, wouldn't push it beyond that however.

    Having said that, and looking at your image, i think like me, you are going to want to go for wide rims. As even with the 10mm hub + additional 3mm I have now on the rear, and 26mm +4 offset rims, the rears are still within the arch/shell too much for my liking, and it looks like you're just running the kits stock 24mm (0 or at best +2 offset) rims, so you might find it even more noticeable.

    Either way, definitely pickup those long axles to help get the extra hub width/spacing and thread.

     

  24. Posted

    10 hours ago, Busdriver said:

    This was suggested by   @Juhuniohttps://tamico.de/navi.php?a=231596&lang=eng as a possibility. Having said that there are lots of other alternatives which I quite like especially in bronze!!

    They aren't too bad. I have the mesh variant for my Sierra shell as they are almost a perfect match for the touring car livery I'm trying to match.

    Being two piece as well, means you could always easily paint the black spoked section another color if you prefer and keep the chrome part as is.

  25. Posted

    9 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

    Painting lexan lights - esp if multicoloured - can be difficult 

    Sharpie pens in red or orange often work v well - esp when backed in PS clear or translucent silver 

    Trimming textured / coloured lens tinted stickers can be even better - with the best stuff probably from Wrap Up Next 

    Who also do v good grill decals 

    I think Adrian / Truck Norris uses them for the masterpieces he creates - so you’d be in good company 👍

    My mates son just did his first slot car shell using sharpies ;) why didn't I think of that haha .. but yes they probably would work also.

    I've seen some of that Wrap Up Next stuff listed on RC Mart, I picked up some of their chrome/silver and honeycomb grill for my Mustang already, may have another look and see what their tints are like.

    Looks like I've got a weekend of paint - and marker - tests ahead of me. Thankfully I have a few translucent PS paints still, even though different colours, that will let me test how they brush on per previous comments with @alvinlwh I will have to pickup at least one of the clear acrylics to test them, and probably some sharpies.

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